finless surfing

Another little known fact about me - I think it was either winter of 2009 or 2010 I snapped an old soft top surfing decent sized close out shore break barrels. I kept the board and decided to saw the break clean, then glass over the back. So I cut it at 4'9", glassed the back, gave it some doodles and dubbed it “The Tombstone.” Of course the thing didn’t have fins, but it worked amazing. I’ve got some great rides on that board, and definitely took it through its paces. The problem I had with it, was since the top was soft, the fiberglass from the back couldn’t stick so it left a razor sharp edge on the top. I would always cut my feet and ankles on it, and now have some sweet scars. I still have the board, but now it is too thrashed to ride, and I’m unable to ride finless do to the circumstances with my knee. 

Photo by Andrew Sarnecki shot in the summer of 2010 for the Hippy Tree Catalog / Website.