filling in lineart

Okay, so recently, I discovered that quite a few people have resorted to using the pen tool to fill in their lineart neatly, which takes EXCRUCIATINGLY long . Some people use a masking tool, others just hastily fill in the lineart with the brush tool, which usually ends up with colors poking out the side of the piece that you have to go back and erase.

Well I’m going to show you a quicker, easier way to do it, using the wand tool [or selection tool in sai). Some people have problems using the wand tool, as it leaves a blank space between the lineart and the actual fill space, but this tutorial tells you how to avoid this!

First, let’s start out with our lineart.

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Now, you’ll need to select this tool, the wand tool

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Now, this is important. you need to select OUTSIDE the lines, not inside. You also have to be on the same layer as your lineart. Make sure your lines are closed so that you don’t end up selecting inside the lines! (If you have intentional gaps in your lineart, I will tell you how to use this same method later in the tutorial)

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NOW INVERSE!! (select -> inverse) 

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Your selection is now inside the lineart! BUT WAIT!! Do not fill behind the lineart just yet, or this will happen!

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You will get white around the outside of the line! We certainly don’t want this! before you fill it in with the bucket or fill tool, you have to go to Select -> Modify -> Contract

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you will get this, and you will will have to change the number depending on how thick your lineart is and what dpi you’re working in. Normally I just do 3 or 4 since i work in 300 dpi.

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So now your selection will go from this:

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To this!

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NOW you can fill/use the bucket tool underneath your lineart.

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Now you may have to do a little erasing in the corners, since the selection tool normally can’t get into little crevices.

Also, if you select INSIDE your lineart to fill in certain areas, such as the eyes, all you have to do is go to “select -> modify -> expand” instead of “contract”. 

NOW FOR LINEART WITH INTENTIONAL GAPS. 

normally, if you do the selection tool, it will do this, right? 

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It selects inside the lines as well. Here’s how you fix that. go underneath your lineart and make lines as if you’re connecting the lines together. 

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Now go back to your wand tool. At the top, you will see a box that will say “Sample all layers”. You need to check this box. 

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Now select outside your lineart and…

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Viola! Now just go to the layer that you used to close the gaps, repeat all steps above, and fill it in. (if you’re using the bucket tool, you’ll have to click twice to fill it in completely)

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ta da! Now just do your cleanup, and you’re good to go! Don’t forget to lock your layers, as well as use clipping masks so you don’t paint outside your lines!

I hope this has helped c:

anonymous asked:

How do you color?

very very simply!

on firealpaca:

1. make a new layer for your lineart.

2. make a new layer UNDER that layer for your color. pick a color and just color with your pen!!

OR

instead of coloring by hand, you can fill in gaps in your lineart with spots of color like this

then bucket fill!

then you can manually fill in the rest! (if you don’t close the gaps with color or edit your lineart to close them then your bucket tool will just spill out and color the entire background)

go over the eyes and mouth and nose to make sure everything is colored underneath those lines because firealpaca will not color underneath them. if you took the lines away without filling in yourself after the bucket it would look like this

which isn’t a huge deal, but it helps to have it all filled in if you need to make edits to your lineart later!

also: regarding the bucket tool. without editing the settings, your bucket will not properly fill in lines and will leave a ring between the color and the lines. to fix this i go up to the top of the screen and “expand” the pixels from 0 to 2. this makes it so whatever you’re filling in with the bucket will do exactly what it says–expand by 2! so now that ring will be gone. (it’s not an exact thing here, i’ve just found that 2 looks pretty good)

now after you’ve finished the base color, check “protect alpha” in your layers menu.

now when you color on that layer you can only color what you’ve already done! so you can’t go outside the lines while you’re adding patterns like spots or whatever.

finish off that dog

3. if you want to do fun fancy stuff then add another layer BETWEEN your lines and color layer. check the “clipping” box. this is just like “protect alpha” except it will work on the layer below it! (there’s a little arrow there telling you what it’s affecting!) this is good so that if you end up hating it you can just turn the layer off or delete it and never have to see it again and your base colors will be untouched!

from here you can mess with any of the settings to do cool stuff with shading or lighting. lots of times i actually do my shading by picking colors myself and drawing them right onto the color layer, but other times i might use this extra layer, set it to “multiply,” pick a color, then shade! you can pick any of the options and see what they do, or change the opacity and see if you like the look of that!

i’ll pick a grayish pink here to use!

and here’s what it looks like when you use it on your multiply layer!!


so ya!! that’s basically how i color! for my dog sets i actually don’t shade at all and just stick to my lines and color layers. for other things i’ll shade on my own, for others i’ll shade with the multiply layer, other times i’ll just experiment and do a whole mess of things! so just test things out and see what you get!!

this is a very simple guide here but i hope this could help those who are learning some basics! :)

try the kool-aid.

anonymous asked:

(Not the other anon) Could I ask why you do a base gray color before you do the actual colors? I see a lot of artists do that/similar things, but I'm not sure what it does for the picture.

I do it mostly so I can clip all the other layers on top

In case you don’t know about clipping masks; what they do is create layer masks for each clipped layer and only make the boundaries of the bottom layer (base in this case) visible. Which sounds so much more complicated than it is lmao basically you can just stack all the colour and adjustment layers on top of the base and don’t have to worry about drawing over the lines, because you’ll only actually see whatever you draw over where the base is. It’s far easier to try it than to explain it, really. Just make a new layer on top of any shape that you drew, right click and choose ‘Create Clipping Mask’, then draw on that layer and watch MAGIC HAPPEN :’)

noodiekitty  asked:

Hey, just a quick question out of pure curiosity: Why do you put the little particles around the people in your art? Is it like an aesthetic or something?? I think it looks cool but I was just wanting to hear your reason for doing it.

honestly? its just as u say i mostly do it bc it looks cool. also it hopefully distracts u from the fact i cant draw backgrounds to save my life

copicsharkers  asked:

I loveeee your art you lines are so clean!! How do you color??

That’s super kind of you! I’m always surprised when people compliment my lines because they’re…well, they’re not what they used to be haha! But here’s a really speedy tut on my colouring (luckily my colouring style is mega simple becuase I’m so impatient)

I’ll use this redraw of a redraw of R!Gen I never uploaded as my example. Also, I use sai, so keep that in mind. 

First thing’s filling in the lineart with grey–I always select the white around the lineart and then invert it and fill it because it’s more precise and saves a tooooon of time.

Next is flats–I clip each colour to the gray so I don’t go out the lines.

Next is colouring the lineart. Like with the flats, each colour is clipped to the lineart layer. This step is the most important to me because it tends to make even some of my worst colouring jobs pretty salvageable haha. 

Then a multiply layer to add a bit of variation to the skin tone across the face, neck, arms and knuckles (though I applied it more sloppily than usual here). I also gave Genji’s hair a slight gradient on this layer because why not

Then shadows–that’s just a multiply layer, using a pale purple or pink usually. I put the multiply layer above all the others because I like the lineart to get darkened too.

And then a luminosity layer, where I airbrush a bit of light in relevant areas and shiny places get more pronounced light with the pen tool. I also airbrushed red on an overlay layer to make the palette slightly warmer

And that’s it! Very straightforward, but hope that was helpful to you!

3

✦✦✦Doing away with the bust/halfbody stuff because I’ve found it generally just depends on the commission for how long something will take haha… 

Keep in mind sketches can be as rough or as precise as you want; we can talk about it, of course.

The prices are as follows(and negotiable):

  • $20 for rough sketches
  • $30 for filled sketches(lineart is also priced this way)
  • $40 for colored lineart
  • $60 for painted pieces
    • +$5 for more complicated characters.

Payment will be sent after I’ve confirmed that you are happy with the commission. Payment will be sent via PayPal to hello.snow@live.com.

contact info:

e-mail: hello.snow@live.com
twitter: @kaihoshas
tumblr: noerru

anonymous asked:

Hello! Sorry for the random question, but for one of your pieces with the caption "nosotros vivimos la vida" (it's a painting of viktuuri), did u do something special with the lighting? It looks amazing, but also has a strange (a good strange!!) effect to it, but I can't quite place my finger on it!

no problem! 

I was testing out a new coloring way actually. Forgive me if this doesn’t sound clear but basically what I did is fill out the entire lineart with the lightest color(the color of the highlights)

and then I colored out the places where I want my dark areas to be, with a few extra shadows here and there 

and then to try to spice it up i added an overlay layer

you can also color the linearts 

and that’s it i guess? You could also look up color theory to make the colors work better together(I still don’t understand it myself..)

But I hope that helps!

2

Aaaaaaahh thank you so much!!! I’m not fond of fem/male!chacracter art but have a prince todo instead!!

Regarding your questions, I’m not sure if you meant traditionally or digitally- digitally, I use medibang paint. I use either pen or pencil for sketch and lineart, fill tool for flats, watercolor for shading (sometimes airbrush too to soften the shades) and watercolor/airbrush for highlights as well. In this doodle, I only used the pencil brush and the watercolor brushes.

Traditionally, I use sakura micron pens for lineart and promarkers to color - I recently bought zig’s clean color brushes so I will probably use them too in the future!

You can ask me questions if you want! I stream sometimes, so you can watch my process when I do! 

Starbound- Novakid Shading Style

Howdy! People seemed to be interested in how I shade my Novakid to make them look extra shiny. Well, it’s actually really simple. 

Program used: Paint tool SAI

Brushes used:

Soft brush for highlights

Large blending watercolor brush for… well, blending.

The Good Old Pen

Sizes for all three will deviate based on thickness of lineart, intensity of highlights, and how much detail you want to blend with.

Keep reading

anonymous asked:

((Hi! This is a question for the mod, how do you go through the process of drawing an answer? Like, can we see step by step how you do it? Also I love your art so much and I love this blog! Ty!))

((Hiya! And omg of course I’ll be happy to show you!

So first I start off with a really rough sketch of what I want to do c:
I’ll use the art from the ask I just answered lol

Lots of scribbling. XD

Then I reduce the opacity and do lineart over the sketch layer (with minor modifications as I see fit)

Hide the sketch layer, thicken the lines…

Then I fill in the lineart with one color by using the magic wand tool then inverting and paint bucketing two separate color layers underneath the lineart…like so!

And then I magic wand tool inside the lineart and paintbucket some more to get the base colors down. Also clipping groups rock.

Next I go in and do some simple shading with overlay layers c: And extra details (eyes, stripes, glowing, scars, etc.)

After that is a background! For this one I just used a simple paper texture background off of google lololol
I also go in and add overlays and other screen color effects to make it look nice n pretty. I extended the canvas a little to make room for the text bubbles

And then after that I put a white outer glow around them and added text bubbles!

Lastly I fix any errors I see, add extra details if needed (like highlights), bring it into Photoshop and add text. And then post!

So yeah it’s a pretty lengthy process, usually takes around an hour or two depending on how many panels I’m doing! But yes, that is the whole process I go through when I answer asks! ^^))

anonymous asked:

Sorry to be a pain in the ass, I'm the same anon, can you be more specific about the sandpaper? Do you sandpaper the whole thing or just in the outline? And if it's just in the outline how do you get so detailed? Again sorry to be such a pain, I've been trying to make shrinks dinks for ages

It’s no problem, you’re not being a pain in the ass! :D

Basically what i do is i draw out my drawing on a piece of paper the way I want it to look (basic lineart), then i put a piece of clear shrinky dink over the top of it and i trace that with a standard size sharpie (a regular fine point, the ones that cost $1 at staples)

i tend to make my drawings on paper about 2.5 inches by 3.5 inches

then i take sandpaper (the smallest grit you can find) and i basically file it down until the plastic is cloudy and you can’t see through it anymore. the place i sand down is only inside the lineart i put down and maybe slightly outside of it because it’s hard to control

once you sand it overtop the lineart (on the same “layer” as the lineart, on the same side of the plastic) it will take most of it off (be careful to not sand TOO much because you won’t be able to see your drawing), and i just re-trace over it with the same sharpie

then i go in and fill inside the lineart with the colored pencils, sometimes i like to outline over top my sharpie lineart with a sharpened black colored pencil just to intensify it

because the drawing was so small (the size i mentioned earlier) once it shrinks down to about the size of a penny it looks incredibly detailed even though the original lineart was quite simple! :D

i hope that made sense and i hope it helped skdjfh

2

In which Alan is the new recruit, Gordon is the best marksman, Virgil is the man with all the toys, John is lethal with words alone, and Scott is the suave womanizer. 

No wait. Even I cannot take a womanizing Scott seriously. I’m just going to laugh in the corner. Oh god, what have I done.

anonymous asked:

How do you fill in an area of lineart with color so fast and so perfectly without getting those weird little cubes of empty space along the edges??

Here’s a guide for art with linework

For lineless, you just drop the paintbucket twice. First to fill in the colours, the second to get rid of the artifacts. The only bad thing is that the outer edges will have a sharper appearance, but it’s not noticeable when you shrink the image down or print it.