The Style Line is extremely happy to present the much anticipated interview with Cally Rieman founder and creative chief of emerging brand KAL RIEMAN. Now I know what you may be thinking, why debut a F/W 2012 collection in the dead of summer? I like to think of it as taking a vacation via the internet and going to a place where luscious leathers and cuddly autumnal tones are welcomed alike. But to give you the best of both worlds, along with debuting some of Cally’s F/W 2012 pieces, Cally discusses her S/S 2012 collection, along with her endeavors, hopes and dreams.
Tell us a bit about your artistic endeavors.
Running a business is one, big artistic endeavor. Besides the design process, it take much creative effort to build a brand, execute photo shoots, present the brand to buyers and customers, create a website, and take care of all the business matters associated with it.
All of my energy goes into this process. It is a bit overwhelming at times, but nonetheless exciting.
How did your experiences contribute to the birth of KAL RIEMAN?
By chance, I wound up working in men’s wear for the first 5 years of my career in fashion. It taught me a great deal about tailoring and wardrobe building, because those are the foundations of men’s wear. I realized that those principals could apply to a women’s collection and make it more sound, viable, and long-lasting.
How would you describe KAL RIEMAN as a brand?
KAL RIEMAN, Inc. creates ready-to-wear, women’s clothing, designed and tailored for successful, cultured women. The collection of styles is sold in high-end retail establishments and directly to private clients, focusing on women ages 30 to 50 who are seeking unique and original wardrobe essentials grounded in classics.
The company distinguishes itself from competitors with foundational, tailored, suit separates and designs that are at once timeless and fashion forward. KAL RIEMAN is committed to creating beautiful, structured garments that will be staples of our clients’ wardrobes for many years.
Tell us a bit about your design process.
It starts with a feeling or a gesture–an attitude, if you will. That is often provoked from an image found in art, music, an old photograph.
For Spring 2012, that image was a photograph of Jean-Michel Basquait by Nicholas Taylor
From there we begin to look at fabrics with this idea in mind and start building a board of fabrics for the collection. Simultaneously, we research the color palette and typically go through at least 30 colors before we decide what works. Our inspiration board changes on a daily basis, but is always in front of us. We put things on the board and within a week, we know if they “work” or not. It is a really fun and exciting evolution of a feeling.
What do you consider the brand’s great accomplishment thus far?
KR’s greatest accomplishment so far has been are connection with our clients. It is a very personal relationship and we have developed very strong relationships with our stores and our private customers. By holding trunk shows, I have had the opportunity to get to know these women, find out about their lives, hear what they like or “need” or what they are looking for, and to watch them react to the collection. It is amazing to watch each one of them adapt the collection to their own style; to select the pieces that fit their personality and lifestyle. It has been a great lesson and a heart-warming experience.
Would you say your personal style influences KAL RIEMAN?
Absolutely. The Tomgirl that I am runs through this collection at all times. That and my Libra self. A continued effort to find the balance between masculine and feminine, between structured and unstructured, between art and wearability.
Who is the KAL RIEMAN woman?
The Kal Rieman woman is confident, assertive, and direct. She is cool without being cold, forthright without being in your face, and smart without being a know it all. She knows how to enter a room and her effortless grace is noticed by all.
The J110 dining chair from HAY - as seen in the living room of creative director Herbert Hofmann and architect Sigurd Larsen - is a timeless classic, holding significance for Danish design.
Designed by Poul M. Volther, the furniture and design house HAY decided to re-introduce this chair while Volther was working for the Danish Consumers’ Co-operative Society FDB cooperative. Volther’s aim with this piece was focus on the ideal of functionalism.
Fashion blogger, student fashion designer and one of our very own previous interviewees Jennifer Wang shares her insight and design experience. Her student made collection pictured above is only a preview of what the immensley young talented Wang can do. Here’s a bit of what she had to say:
How when and why did you first become interested in fashion?
To be honest, I’m not really able to narrow it down. But to me, not knowing is more powerful than actually “knowing” because I have come to rely on a stronger, gut feeling instead!
Can you tell us a little about your experience with fashion design? Do you aspire to be a fashion designer?
From the Fashion Design elective at my school which I took my freshman year, I learned basic sewing skills. That year and the year after, I enrolled in a summer pre-college program where I took classes in fashion design, construction, illustration and journalism to name a few subjects. Sophomore year I took Digital Photography (which helped me gain a photography base for my blog). When I came back for my 2nd year in Fashion Design in my junior year this year, I had developed a broad range of skills that helped me translate my ideas from the inspiration process into the final construction. Aside from that, I learned a lot through trial and error, observation, and also through reading books!
Tell us about the design process of your recent collection for your class.
I first started by collecting a large collection of inspirational images from magazines, Style.com, and random sites online. I organize everything into a visual journal which is categorized by themes even if I can’t give the theme a name. After choosing a direction to go with for my collection, I start drawing my designs on croquis templates and when I’ve finalized them, I make lists of all the materials I will need to construct them. Once I’ve collected the measurements of my models, I start the construction process. The last thing I do is make alterations if necessary and then choose accessories!
What other areas of the fashion industry inspire or appeal to you?
Fashion photography really appeals to me in particular. I think it’s a great skill to have if you wish to go into the design field because you can photograph your garments yourself and if you know how to take strong photographs, they will add selling power to your garments!
How crucial do you feel is it for those looking to break into a creative industry to take classes in their chosen field?
I’d say it’s 50%. Having a strong base in technical skills is important but even if you go to the best design school in the world, the rest is up to you to come up with creative and innovate concepts! You can’t really call anything design if there is nothing new and exciting.
Where do you see yourself in five years?
I hope I get accepted into Parsons and that I can afford it too! After that, ff I work hard enough and make the right connections, I would love to be given the privilege of showing at NYFW! We will just have to see how it pans out in the future!
To read Jennifer’s previous interview here on The Style Line please click HERE!
“Damn, man. I didn’t actually expect Mr. Looker to go and pull that kinda shit.”
“Purr purr…” Mimi walked briskly just behind Emma, her eyes watching the girl’s face rather than where she was going. As usual, her primary sentiment was concern. But given the circumstances, Mimi wasn’t sure if she was supposed to be pessimistic or optimistic.
The funny thing about that was, neither was Emma. Yeah, she was definitely pissed that she’d been swindled or whatever, but really that was her fault. Everything was happening so fast, it was kind of too much to digest all at once, let alone come to a decision about.
“I mean, that’s kinda a lot to toss on a girl in one day!” An evil group, losing Essentia or becoming a pawn, being spied on by her own dad, a girlfriend, a sister… “What the fuck, man?”
Emma was good with directions at least. That meant she was making it to Ariana’s office while her mind was completely somewhere else. She didn’t have any fucking clue what she was gonna say to this lady. Mr. Looker probably just wanted her to say “yeah I wanna leave, I wanna leave right now.”
But Emma was thinking further than that. The hell was she gonna do if she left? She’d have no dad, and no suit, and without any of those she had no money. And then what?
Well, she could smell what happened next. She’d be back where she started, which was a much more bitter thought now that she had a clue what she would be missing out on.
This fucking sucked. She was fucking pissed. Why was she even knocking on this fucking door right now? Emma had no fucking clue.
Having developed a new-found affinity to all that is denim, I was honored and overjoyed to have visited the VIGOSS USA showroom on not one but TWO occassions. Having recently graced the pages of coveted magazine Teen Vogue and crowning honorary it-girl Sky Ferreira as the face of their F/W 2012 campaign, it’s obvious that VIGOSS has made it clear that they are the epitome of downtown chic. Keep your eyes peeled and wallets open -Owning a pair of these jeans should be at the top of your fashion to-do list! As such, The Style Line caught up with President of Sales, Erika Shulman to discuss what makes VIGOSS USA tick as well as the company’s aspirations.
How would you describe VIGOSS USA as a brand?
Confident. Edgy. Provocative. Vigoss USA is famous for premium skinny jeans with a huge assortment of textures, colors and prints.
How do you distinguish yourselves as a brand in the ever-growing denim industry?
Innovation and detail set VIGOSS USA apart from other brands of jeans on the market today.
At VIGOSS USA, we use innovative wash methods and techniques such as laser printing and coating processes to give our denim a unique look. Our jeans also have premium details like leather-backed buttons, interior finished seams, and lined back pockets. Because we have our own factory, we are able to deliver premium jeans—that typically cost over $200 —for under $100.
Tell us a bit about your design process.
We seek inspiration from photography, art, design, film, music and street culture and then translate this artistic energy into silhouettes, finishing techniques and washes.
What do you consider the brand’s great accomplishment thus far?
We have spent a lot of time developing our fit so it can be worn by a broad range of customers in all sizes and shapes. Most women are looking for jeans with the perfect fit when shopping. Our fit created specifically for women has set us apart in the marketplace.
The beautiful FW 2012 Lookbook campaign features Sky Ferreira, why do you feel Sky embodies the spirit of the brand?
We were drawn to Sky Ferreira because of her confidence and unique, downtown look. We wanted someone who embodied the edgy, provocative Vigoss aesthetic.
Who is the VIGOSS USA girl?
The VIGOSS girl is a trendsetter—confident and original. Very fashion savvy, she demands quality and craftsmanship.
A Closer Look:J. Press York Street - Russel Button-Down
I picked up this shirt during the J. Press sample sale in the winter. So basically, this is long overdue. This red gingham button-down is part of J. Press’ collabo with Ovadia & Sons, the “rising neo-prepster line” (NY Times’ words, not mine).
The York Street line runs much slimmer than what J. Press usually pops out, which is great news for a guy like me. As expected, this shirt was a great value for what I was able to grab it for (even at full price it is a good buy). The poplin cotton-gingham combo is a great pick for summer and the red adds just enough to make the shirt different from the rest of your sport shirts (unless you have a lot of red gingham shirts…). The fabric is extremely light without being flimsy and the overall construction is exactly what you would expect from the trad brand, as well as that of Ovadia & Sons.
Overall, I am grateful for the York Street line. I love me some good ol’ Americana trad preppiness, but the closer fit here updates a classic just enough. I am happy with this purchase, along with the other great finds I found at J. Press that day. I look forward to more from the York Street line.
If your interested in this shirt, J. Press is running an incredible sale on it right now. Check it out HERE.
The Style Line once again caught up with Munich-based Christoph Schaller to get the low-down on his beautiful photography as well his goals and aspirations!
How, when and why did you first take up photography?
I started taking pictures about a year ago which is not a long time at all. I first got interested in it because I did a lot of travelling and I wanted to somehow capture my memories in a way that could convey the real beauty of things.
What would you say are the main differences between shooting in film or digitally?
In film you take much more care of the situation before you even take one photograph. With my digital camera I just give it a few tries until the picture looks the way I want it to look. Film photography is a bite more romantic I guess…
What is your favorite aspect of photography? What is something that you struggle with?
You get to meet a lot of new, interesting and inspiring people (mostly they’re also beautiful to look at) which is always fun. I just chose photography as a medium because you can create something in your mind and then make it reality. Hm, sometimes the aspect of meeting new people can be quite a challenge, too. When I had my first shooting with agency models for instance I felt really scared due to the pressure you have to take good photos. But I got used to it with more experience…
Do you consider yourself strictly a fashion photographer?
No, I love fashion photography because it’s very creative, you can dream and create something out of nothing. However I also like people and documentary a lot - experiencing things and capturing moments that you never want to forget again.
What other areas of the fashion industry appeal to you?
I’m not that much into the fashion industry to be quite honest. I’m against blind consumerism and I prefer a more real, natural way of living. Of course I see why fashion is important though… It’s your message to the outer world, the easiest way of expressing who you are. I just believe that you don’t have to make people think they need new clothes every two or three months…
What is a muse to you? What inspires you?
Beautiful people mostly. And books, I have a lot of books.
Describe your ideal collaboration, dream job or dream shoot.
I’d love to shoot for a brand like Billabong or Quiksilver one day. I like the surfer lifestyle and think it contains so much beauty.
What advice do you have for aspiring photographers?
You need to make things happen for yourself and you have to be willing to work really hard. No one is going to ask you to take photos. It’s your freedom but also your rensponsibility if you want to make it. Never give up and follow your dreams.
To see Christoph’s previous feature on The Style Line you can do so by clicking HERE!
I laughed so hard when my bro-in-law showed me this. I recently got him into Shingeki no Kyoji, Although, the story is very intriguing and the anime has huge juevos, that doesn’t excuse the fact that the manga has got some art issues.