To illustrate her point, Nef referenced the Helmut Newton photograph of Yves Saint Laurent’s fall 1996 Le Smoking suit. “The discourse around this image is that a woman gains this power, this dominance, this sexiness, from donning a man’s suit,” she said. “If she’s sourcing that from a signifier of stereotypical masculinity, then how sustainable is that as a power source? If she’s putting it on and taking it off, is that really a subversion of gender binaries or is just a reinforcement of that binary as we know it?
—  Hari Nef doesn’t think fashion is a fertile ground for a discussion of gender by Chantel Fernandez