Prabal Gurungs fall 2013 collection is fierce, powerful and adventurous. The collection is military inspired and ferocious and the thigh-high leather strappy bootdals are fit for a couture-loving commandant. Exotic global-inspired embroidery and tribal inspired accessories add a safari-godess flair.
Vivienne Tam turned up the heat in Tokyo with her raucous, edgy red, black an white high-contrast creations. The designs are brash,feverish and fiery and scream punk. Something about the tartan trousers, bright red-leather top, leather lightning bolt evening gown and cartoonish graffiti reminds me of the works of another Vivienne; the queen atelier of punk (Westwood) and the minimalist silhouettes make the collection modern and fresh.
Kate Spade’s fall 2013 collection makes me want to put on some glittery eyeshadow, start shakin’ ma groove thang and belt out Diana Ross Tunes. Kate Spade stays true to her cheerful aesthetic and hits some gloriously cheeky high notes with high-class kitsch at every turn,skirts and accessories covered in lips, bright girly colors and cartoons emblazoned on soft knits. A serious disco kick was infused throughout in the form of bell-bottoms, silk blouses with huge bows, leather gloves, peplum dresses, cigarette pants and shaggy fur jackets a la’ Studio 54. The ubiquitous “it” accessory, the gangsta-glam ski cap beanie, made an appearance as did the color yellow and other taxi-inspired accents.
The collection was Diana Ross meets Mary Tyler Moore meets Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver…..ummm who said disco was dead?
Patrick Nagel’s sleek art deco illustrations capture the chintzy glamour of eighties nouveau pastiche. Nagel is most famous for his iconic Duran Duran Rio cover, but his slick drawings of feline-eyed beauties clad in androgynous power-suits and broad-shouldered, tiny-waisted jumpsuits defined the fashion of the decade of excess. It somehow seems fitting that Balmain a label which seems to revel in decadence and excess use the surfeit of the eighties as it’s muse. The fall collection was as decadent as a thick slice of syrup-drenched cheesecake, exaggerated shoulders, a plethora of lamé, moiré, cummerbund belts, ornate embroidery, and huge tassel-like earrings. Olivier Rousteig’s was undoubtedly hungry like the wolf.