Tom Ford channels the suave, slick irresistible charms of The Knack’s Tolen and the slim-cut, impeccably tailored, plaid-on-plaid three piece suits and sophisticated turtlenecks exude the modish, devil-may-care animal magnetism of London’s swinging sixties.
Who but Clint eastwood could look so fetching in a blanket?(well it’s more like a blanket/poncho/cape- but still..) Not many can pull it off and that’s why Dirk Bikkemberg’s ambitious, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink collection doesn’t seem incredibly wearable. Yes, Bikkemberg designed a modern updated version of Clint’s blanket, a quilted gunmetal industrial version and a soft reversible mustard and camel version. Thick long scarves and bulky overcoats mimic that all-wrapped-up look, as do shaggy sweaters bath-room-rug nubby panels. Pointy oxfords, seer-sucker shirts with arm garter detail at the shoulders, oversized- leather carryalls, and stirrup pants all add a very kooky-intergalactic cowboy feel. And in fact the collection is made up of some really good stuff, some really bad stuff and although I hate the word ugly in this case some of the design elements are well a little bit macabre. So it’s a collection of the good, the bad and the macabre.
You see, in this world there’s two kinds of stylish people, my friend..those who dress to impress and those who dress to shock….
Kenzo’s fall collection is titled “The Jungle of the Sky,” and so it is fitting that the collection is painted in a powder blue cloud motif and shades of cobalt and navy. The wash of clouds, the cerulean palette, the outlandish sense of proportion and ratio and the"bowler hat and topcoat aesthetic" of the collection conjures up the image of Belgian surrealist painter René Magritte’s “The Son of Man” (1964).
The hip design label stayed true to its pop culture roots with ultraskinny nylon pants, the brands signature voluminous, rounded drop shoulder showcased on bomber and wool biker jackets. Color-blocked Neoprene sweatshirts winked to the Nineties and the house’s Asian roots and minimalist razor-cut suits and topcoats exuded a modern edge.
Channel the European bad guy character from almost every action flick known to mankind in Joseph Abboud’s fall 2013 collection. The collection is slick, Euro-chic and expensive looking - think club hopping, sportscar driving con artist- or possibly rebellious, celebutante-dating, shipping heir- with a penchant for skiing, St Tropez and Café au lait. Think either all black or all white ensembles, slouchy knit neck-funnel wraps, fur trimmed monochrome puffer coats, black sweatshirts, asymmetrically zippered moto-jackets, wide-collared fold-over jackets, slim-fit sweaters and of course there is the Pièce de résistance- the black leather overcoat.
Dashing and debonair, Sarah Burton’s vision for her fall 2013 menswear collection was borrowed straight from the 1930’s silver screen a la’ Clark Gable, William Powel, Carey Grant, Errol Flynn and Humphrey Bogart. The sumptuous collection has an exquisite Saville Row quality- evening jackets crafted from an elegant patchwork of velvet, satin, grosgrain and jacquards, some with flourishes of gold embroidery- and a stylized noir feel that somehow seems fresh and modern thanks to Burton’s irreverent approach to design. Classic pinstripe three-piece suits were nipped and slick with McQueen’s signature raised-pagoda shoulder,dapper vests, long tuxedo jackets and low-rise, cropped trousers. The slick suits and silky smoking jackets matched the models slicked back hair, shellacked into a perfect coiffed wave a la’ Rhett Butler.