eskimofinn

Laura’s Loop: The Sweatshirt Sweater

The Materials

 

External image

The Pattern

Gauge

5 ½ stitches = 1 inch in stockinette on larger needles 

Sizes + Dimensions

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)

Finished Chest Circumference: 33 ¾ (37 ½, 41, 44 ¾, 48 ¼) inches

Finished Hip Circumference: 28 (31, 34, 37, 40) inches

Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 14 inches, with directions to adjust 

Finished Length from Shoulder to Underarm: 7 ½ (8 ¼, 9 ¼, 9 ¾, 10) inches 

Finished Length from Sleeve Cuff to Underarm: 16 (17, 19, 19 ½, 20 ½) inches, with direction to adjust

NOTE: Size Small sweater shown here on 34-inch bust dressform with 3 ½ inches of ease. Please pay close attention to finished dimensions above when selecting which size to make!

Pattern Notes

Slip 1, k2tog, psso (or sk2p): This is a left-slanting double decrease. Slip 1 purlwise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch and off the needle. 

Knit 3 together (or k3tog): This is a right-slanting double decrease. Insert right needle into next three stitches as if to knit. Knit all three stitches together as if they were one stitch.

Begin Sleeves

External image

With the smaller sized double pointed needles, cast on 42 (45, 51, 54, 60) stitches.

Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Round 1:  *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 3 inches from cast on edge. 

Change to larger double pointed needles.

Round 2: K35 (38, 44, 47, 53), place different color marker (pm), [p1, k2] two times, p1.

** Round 3 (increase round): M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker (sm), [p1, k2] two times, p1. (2 stitches increased)

Round 4: Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1.

Repeat Round 4 five (four, five, four, four) more times.

Repeat from ** eleven (14, 14, 17, 18) more times. 66 (75, 81, 90, 98) stitches

Repeat Round 3. 68 (77, 83, 92, 100) stitches

Note: If you are particularly short (or long) limbed and would like to adjust the length of the sleeve, 

repeat Round 4 fewer (or more) times between increase rounds.

Next Round: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, removing stitch markers.

Place remaining 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches on scrap yarn or a spare circular needle. 

Make a second sleeve identical to the first.

Begin Body  

With the smaller, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, cast on 168 (186, 204, 222, 240) stitches.

Place marker and connect for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. 

Round 1: *K2, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 2 ¼ (2 ¼, 2 ¼, 2 ½, 2 ½, 3) inches. 

Next Round (increase round): *K5, k1fb, [k8, k1fb] 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) times, [k2, p1] two times, repeat from * to end of round. 186 (206, 226, 246, 266 stitches)

Next Round: With larger, 24- or 32-inch circular needle, *k86 (96, 106, 116, 126), place different color marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

Next Round: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round. 

Repeat last round until piece measures 3 ¼ (3 ¼, 3 ¼, 3 ½, 3 ½, 4) inches from cast on edge. 

Mark for Pouch (Optional)

Note: If you are not making the pouch, skip to the “Continue” section.

External image

Round 1: K7, mark this 7th stitch with a removable stitch marker, *knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Continue working in established pattern until piece measures 10 (10 ¼, 10 ½, 11, 12) inches from cast on edge.

Make the Pouch (Optional)

With the extra larger circular needle, starting with (and including) the marked stitch, slip the point of the needle under the right leg of the following 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) stitches

Remove the removable marker. 

For this section, you will be working just the 74 (84, 94, 104, 114) pouch stitches. You’ll work back and forth in rows, turning the piece at the end of each row.

Row 1 (right side): K1, p1, [k2, p1] two times, knit to last 8 stitches, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1. 

Row 2 (wrong side): P1, k1, [p2, k1] two times, purl to last 8 stitches, [k1, p2] two times, k1, p1.

Row 3 (decrease row): K1, p1, [k2, p1]  two times, ssk, knit to last 10 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k1. (2 stitches decreased)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eighteen (19, 20, 21, 22) more times. 36 (44, 52, 60, 68) stitches

Repeat Row 2.

Cut yarn, leaving the stitches on the needle.

Graft the Pouch (Optional)

External image

To graft the pouch stitches to the body of the sweater…

Returning to the body of the sweater and continuing from where you left off, k25 (26, 27, 28, 29). Now holding the pouch needle and sweater needle parallel to each other, *knit one stitch from the front pouch needle together with one stitch from the back sweater needle, repeat from *until all the pouch stitches have been knit. Now continuing with just the body stitches and working again in the round, **knit to next marker, [p1, k2], two times, p1, repeat from ** to end of round. 

Continue

External image

Continue working in established pattern until body of sweater measures 14 inches from cast on edge or desired length to underarm.

Attach the Sleeves

External image

Round 1: *Knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1, k0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker), knit to next marker, [p1, k2] two times, p1. 179 (199, 217, 235, 253) stitches

Round 2: K0 (0, 1, 2, 3), place previous 7 (7, 9, 11, 13) stitches on a stitch holder (removing marker), knit to first stitch holder, pm, orient the sleeve’s on-hold underarm stitches so they are parallel and next to the body’s on-hold underarm stitches and knit the sleeve stitches (starting with the stitch to the right of the stitches on hold), pm, knit to next stitch holder, pm, knit the second sleeve stitches, place a different color marker (this is the new end of the round). 294 (332, 356, 386, 414) total stitches: 86 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches for front and back, 61 (70, 74, 81, 87) stitches for each sleeve  

Begin Raglan

External image

Round 1: *P1, k2, p1, knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to three stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end.

Repeat Round 1 two more times.

Next Round (decrease round): *P1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to five stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, repeat from * to end. (8 stitches decreased) 

Repeat Round 1. 

Repeat last two rounds sixteen (19, 21, 23, 25) more times. 158 (172, 180, 194, 206) total stitches: 52 (56, 60, 64, 68) stitches for front and back, 27 (30, 30, 33, 35) stitches for each sleeve 

Continue Raglan and Shape Crew Neck

You will no longer be working in the round but back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.

Row 1 (right side): P1, k2, p1, k22 (24, 26, 28, 30), turn work so that wrong side (the inside of the sweater) is facing you. Where you just turned will now be considered the end of the row, and what was previously considered the end-of-round marker is now just a regular marker.

Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 152 (166, 174, 186, 198) total stitches

Row 3 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) stitches knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 138 (152, 160, 170, 182) stitches

Row 4: Bind off 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row.  135 (149, 157, 166, 178) stitches

Row 5 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 3, (3, 3, 4, 4) knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 124 (138, 146, 154, 166) stitches

Row 6 : Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) stitches purlwise, [purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end of row. 122 (136, 144, 151, 163) stitches

Row 7 (raglan shaping row): Bind off 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) knitwise, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end  of row.  112 (126, 134, 140, 152) stitches 

Row 8: [Purl to 4 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, k1, sm, p2, k1, purl to 3 stitches before next marker, k1, p2, sm, k1, p2, k1] two times, purl to end. 

Row 9 (raglan shaping row): Ssk, [knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to last 2 stitches, k2tog. (10 stitches decreased) 

Repeat Rows 8 and Row 9 two (3, 4, 3, 4) more times. 82 (86, 84, 100, 102) total stitches: 12 (12, 12, 12, 12) total for the front, 40 (42, 44, 50, 52) for back, 15 (16, 14, 19, 19) for each sleeve

For XS (Small, Large, XLarge) Sizes Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: [Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk] two times, knit to end of row. 74 (78, 92, 94) stitches: 10 for right and left front, 38 (40, 48, 50) for back, 13 (14, 17, 17) for each sleeve 

For XS Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 5 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 66 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 34 for back, 11 for each sleeve

For Medium Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 6 stitches before marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to end of row. 78 stitches: 10 for right and left front, 40 for back, 14 for each sleeve

For Large Size Only 

Repeat Row 8. 

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, ssk, knit to 6 stitches before next marker, k2tog, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve

For XLarge Size Only

Repeat Row 8.

Next Row: Knit to 4 stitches before marker, p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, skp2 (see pattern notes above), knit to 7 stitches before next marker, k3tog (see pattern notes above), p1, k2, p1, sm, k2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, p1, k2, sm, p1, k2, p1, knit to end of row. 90 total stitches: 10 for  right and left front, 46 for back, 17 for each sleeve

Make Neckband

External image

For this section, you will once again be working in the round, no longer back and forth in rows. 

Continuing with the right side facing you and now using the smaller, 16-inch circular needle, pm (new beginning of round), pick up 30 (33, 36 ,36 ,39) stitches evenly along the front neckline. Continuing around the remaining 66 (78, 78, 90, 90) stitches, *k1, p1, k1,  repeat from * to end of round. 96 (111, 114, 126, 129) stitches

Next Round: *K1, p1, k1,  repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat last round until ribbing measures 1 ¼ (1 ¼, 1 ½ ,1 ¾ , 2) inches.

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Finish Underarms

External image

Slip one pair of underarm stitches from the stitch holders to two double pointed needles. Holding the needles parallel to one another, use the Kitchener Stitch to graft closed the underarm.

Repeat for second underarm. 

Weave in your ends and you are finished!

2
Jasmine Scarf

Materials

External image

Gauge

24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Sizes

  • Finished Width: 9 ½ inches
  • Finished Length: 60 (80) inches

Note

This pattern is worked over a multiple of 13 + 9 stitches, for example 13 x 5 = 65. 65 + 9 = 74.

Pattern

Begin in Stockinette Stitch

Cast on 74 stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.

Continue in Stitch Pattern

Row 1 (wrong side): P6, [p1 wrapping yarn twice, p8, p1 wrapping yarn twice, P3] 5 times, purl to end. [10 stitches increased]

Row 2: K6, [drop twice-wrapped stitch off needle to front of work, k4, pick up dropped stitch and knit it, slip 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back (wyib), drop twice-wrapped stitch off needle to front of work, slip the same 4 stitches back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped stitch and knit it, k7] 5 times, knit to end. [10 stitches decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until scarf measures 59 (79) inches from cast on edge, or until approximately ¾ inches shy of desired finished length.

Continue in Stockinette Stitch

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Row 1 and 2 one more time.

Repeat Row 1.

Bind off knitwise.

Finish

Weave in ends and block as desired.

- See more at: http://www.purlbee.com/2015/03/25/jasmine-scarf/#sthash.m5ApMAMV.dpuf
Materials

44328_zoom

    3 (4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 42% extra fine merino, 15% linen.We used the color Heirloom White.
    A US #6 straight or circular needle

Gauge

24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes

    Finished Width: 9 ½ inches
    Finished Length: 60 (80) inches

Note

This pattern is worked over a multiple of 13 + 9 stitches, for example 13 x 5 = 65. 65 + 9 = 74.
Pattern
Begin in Stockinette Stitch

Cast on 74 stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Continue in Stitch Pattern

Row 1 (wrong side): P6, [p1 wrapping yarn twice, p8, p1 wrapping yarn twice, P3] 5 times, purl to end. [10 stitches increased]

Row 2: K6, [drop twice-wrapped stitch off needle to front of work, k4, pick up dropped stitch and knit it, slip 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back (wyib), drop twice-wrapped stitch off needle to front of work, slip the same 4 stitches back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped stitch and knit it, k7] 5 times, knit to end. [10 stitches decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until scarf measures 59 (79) inches from cast on edge, or until approximately ¾ inches shy of desired finished length.
Continue in Stockinette Stitch

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Row 1 and 2 one more time.

Repeat Row 1.

Bind off knitwise.
Finish

Weave in ends and block as desired.

Materials

External image

Gauge

24 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Sizes

  • Finished Width: 9 ½ inches
  • Finished Length: 60 (80) inches

Note

This pattern is worked over a multiple of 13 + 9 stitches, for example 13 x 5 = 65. 65 + 9 = 74.

Pattern

Begin in Stockinette Stitch

Cast on 74 stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.

Continue in Stitch Pattern

Row 1 (wrong side): P6, [p1 wrapping yarn twice, p8, p1 wrapping yarn twice, P3] 5 times, purl to end. [10 stitches increased]

Row 2: K6, [drop twice-wrapped stitch off needle to front of work, k4, pick up dropped stitch and knit it, slip 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back (wyib), drop twice-wrapped stitch off needle to front of work, slip the same 4 stitches back to left-hand needle, pick up dropped stitch and knit it, k7] 5 times, knit to end. [10 stitches decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until scarf measures 59 (79) inches from cast on edge, or until approximately ¾ inches shy of desired finished length.

Continue in Stockinette Stitch

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Row 1 and 2 one more time.

Repeat Row 1.

Bind off knitwise.

Finish

Weave in ends and block as desired.

- See more at: http://www.purlbee.com/2015/03/25/jasmine-scarf/#sthash.m5ApMAMV.dpuf

Whit’s Knits: Little Cable Knee Highs

The Materials

External image

The Pattern

Gauge

8 ¼ stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch

Finished Sizes

Women’s Small (Medium, Large)

Foot Circumference: 7 ¼ (8 ¼, 9 ¼) inches (unstretched)

Calf Circumference (at widest): 9 ¼ (10 ¼, 11 ¼) inches (unstretched) 

Foot Length: Adjustable

Height from Heel to Top of Cuff (unfolded): 21 inches (unblocked)

(The photos in this pattern show a size Small.)

How to Make the Cable

Make Cable: Slip 2 stitches purlwise to cable stitch holder and hold in the front of the work; knit next 2 stitches from double pointed needle; knit the 2 stitches from the holder.

The Toe

Using a Provisional Cast On, cast 8 (8, 8) stitches onto one double pointed needle. Make sure to leave a 10-inch tail for finishing at the end.

Set-Up Row: K4 onto Needle 1, k2 onto Needle 2, k2 onto Needle 3.

Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Increase Round: Needle 1: K1, yo, knit to last stitch, yo, k1; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end of needle; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1. (4 stitches increased)

Repeat Increase Round 4 (8, 12) more times, knitting all yo’s through the back loop as you come to them. 28 (44, 60) stitches

Next Round: Knit every stitch, knitting yo’s through the back loop.

Increase Round: Needle 1: K1, yo, knit to last stitch, yo, k1; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end of needle; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1. (4 stitches increased)

Repeat last two rounds 7 (5, 3) more times, knitting yo’s through the back loop. 60 (68, 76) total stitches and 30-15-15 (34-17-17, 38-19-19) stitches on each needle

External image

The Foot

Knit every round until piece measures 6 (6 ¾, 7 ½) inches from cast on, or 2 ½ (2 ¾, 3) inches less than desired legnth from toe to back of heel.

Here’s a guideline for final sock lengths:

   US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches

   US size 7 shoe (38) = 9 ¼ inches

   US size 8 shoe (39) = 9 5/8 inches

   US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches

The Gusset

Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: K1, yo, knit to end; Needle 3: Knit to last stitch, yo, k1.  (2 stitches increased)

Round 2: Needle 1: Knit; Needles 2 and 3: Knit, working all yo’s through the back loop.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 eight more times. 78 (86, 94) total stitches and 30-24-24 (34-26-26, 38-28-28) stitches on each needle

Knit across Needle 1.

External image

Turn the Heel

Notes:

  • The heel is worked back and forth in rows over just Needles 2 and 3.
  • You will shape the heel using short rows. If you need some extra help, we have a great Short Rows Tutorial right here!
  • Work all yo’s through the back loop as you come to them.

Row 1 (right side): Needle 2: Knit; Needle 3: K7 (9, 11), yo, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 2 (wrong side): P16 (20, 24), yo, p1, wrap and turn.

Row 3: K14 (18, 22), yo, k1, wrap and turn.

Row 4: P12 (16, 20), yo, p1, wrap and turn.

LARGE SIZE ONLY

Next Row: K18, yo, k1, wrap and turn.

Next Row: P16, yo, p1, wrap and turn.

MEDIUM AND LARGE SIZES ONLY

Next Row: K14, yo, k1, wrap and turn.

Next Row: P12, yo, k1, wrap and turn.

ALL SIZES

Next Row: K10, yo, k1, wrap and turn.

Next Row: P8, yo, p1, wrap and turn.

Next Row: K6, yo, k1, wrap and turn.

Next Row: P4, yo, p1, wrap and turn.

Knit to the end of Needle 3, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches and knitting the yo’s through the back loop; knit across Needle 1; knit across Needle 2, working the wraps together with the wrapped stitches and knitting the yo’s through the back loop. 86 (96, 106) total stitches and 30-28-28 (34-31-31, 38-34-34) stitches on each needle

The Heel Flap

NOTE: The Heel Flap is worked over just the stitches on Needles 2 and 3. You’ll be working back and forth in rows.

Set-Up Row (right side): Needle 3: K14 (16, 18), ssk, turn. 85 (95, 105) stitches

Row 1 (wrong side): Working just the stitches on Needles 2 and 3, slip 1, p28 (32, 36), p2tog, turn. 84 (94, 104) stitches

Row 2: *Slip 1, k1, repeat from * to 2 stitches before the gap, slip 1, ssk (the 2 stitches on either side of the gap), turn. (1 stitch decreased)

Row 3: Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog (the 2 stitches on either side of the gap), turn. (1 stitch decreased)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 eleven (12, 13) more times. 60 (68, 76) total stitches and 30-15-15 (34-17-17, 38-19-19) stitches on each needle.

Next Row: Needle 2: *Slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch on needle, slip 1. Needle 3: *K1, slip 1, repeat from * to last stitch on needle, k1.

External image

Join for again working in the round.

The Leg

Set-Up Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2; Needle 3: K2, p1, slip these 3 stitches to Needle 2, knit to end. 30-18-12 (34-20-14, 38-22-16) stitches on each needle.

Set-Up Round 2: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit.

Cable Round 1: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, make cable (see How to Make the Cable at beginning of pattern), p1; Needle 3: Knit.

Rounds 2-4: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 6 stitches, p1, k4, p1; Needle 3: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 1-4 eight more times.

+Increase Cable Round: Needle 1: Knit; Needle 2: Knit to last 7 stitches, m1r, k1, p1, make cable, p1; Needle 3: K1, m1l, knit to end. (2 stitches increased)

Repeat Rounds 2-4.

*Work a Cable Round.

Repeat Rounds 2-4.

Repeat from * 1 more time.

Repeat from + 7 more times. 76 (84, 92) total stitches and 30-26-20 (34-28-22, 38-30-24) stitches on each needle

**Work a Cable Round.

Repeat Rounds 2-4.

Repeat from ** 4 more times, ending last repeat with Round 3.

The Cuff

Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 5 inches.

Bind off loosely in rib pattern.

Finishing

Pick up the 8 cast on stitches, putting 4 stitches onto each of two needles.

External image

Use the cast on tail and the Kitchener Stitch to graft together the toe.

Weave in the ends and make a second sock. Block them both and you’re done!

2

Quilted Wool Vest

Materials

Recommended Tools …

These are enough materials to make one vest in any size.

Sizes

Notes

  • All machine sewing should be done with the walking foot attachment.
  • The right side of the wool is the side with the small “V” pattern (as opposed to the side with the ridges).
  • The recommended care of Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra is dry clean only.

Pattern

Cut

From both the Lining and the Outer Fabric, use the pattern pieces to pin and cut…

  • One Vest Back, on the fold
  • Two Vest Fronts

The Vest Fronts from the same fabric should be mirror images of each other. To be sure to cut them with the proper orientation, cut one with the right side of the fabric facing up and one with the wrong side of the fabric facing up, or you can fold the fabric with the right or wrong sides facing each other and cut through both layers at once.

From the Outer Fabric only, also cut …

  • Two Vest Pockets
  • 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) 1 5/8-inch strips from selvage to selvage. These are the Binding Strips.

The two Vest Pockets should be mirror images of each other. Cut them out as described above for the Vest Front pieces.

Prepare the Pockets

Fold the diagonal edge of one Vest Pocket ¾ inch toward the wrong side and press (you can use the Fold Line on the pattern piece as a guide). Sew the folded edge down with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, starting before the fold at the adjacent straight side’s edge and finish after the fold at the adjacent side’s straight edge.

Repeat with the other Pocket piece.

Set the Pockets aside.

Prepare the Binding

With right sides facing, stack two of the Binding Strips on top of each other, lining up the raw edges of one of their short ends. Sew the ends together with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Press the seam open. For sizes fitting 36-39, 40-43 -inch and 44-46 -inch bust, piece an additional Binding Strip to the chain so that the finished Strip is 3 pieces, or approximately 160 inches long.

Fold the remaining Binding Strip in half so that its short ends meet. Cut the Binding Strip at the center crease.

Set the Bindings aside.

Mark 

With the right side facing up, lay one Vest Front in the Outer Fabric out flat.

Using the Vest Front pattern piece as a guide, use the Fabric Pen to transfer the two diagonal Quilting Lines to the fabric.

Draw parallel lines every 2 inches to the left and right of these two guide lines. Continue until the entire Vest Front is covered with a 2-inch grid.

Repeat with the other Vest Front piece in the Outer Fabric.

Repeat with the Vest Back in the Outer Fabric, using the Vest Back pattern piece as a guide to transfer the Quilting Lines.

Quilt

Trim the batting down to three pieces: two that are slightly larger than the Vest Fronts, approximately 12 by 25 (12 ½ by 25, 13 ½ by 26, 14 ½ by 27, 15 ½ by 28) inches each, and one that is slightly larger than the Vest Back, approximately 20 by 26 ½ (20 ½ by 26 ½, 21 by 27, 24 by 28, 25 ½ by 28 ½) inches.

Lay one piece of the batting out flat. With the right side facing up, lay the corresponding piece of the Vest in the Outer Fabric on top (in our example below, I am working on the right Vest Front [as the garment is worn]). There should be a small amount of batting extending beyond the Vest on all four sides.

Starting at the center and working out, use the curved arm safety pins to secure the Vest piece to the batting. Avoid pinning on the marked lines. Pin all the way to the edges of the Outer Fabric.

Using your machine’s walking foot, quilt the two pieces together along the marked lines. Here’s how…

Starting with a line that runs roughly through the center of the Vest, sew along this line from one edge of the fabric to the other.

Pick up your foot and needle, but do not cut the thread. Rotate the Vest 180 degrees and sew along the line running next to the line you just stitched.

Continue to sew along the remaining parallel lines back and forth in this same manner: Sew a line, rotate the Vest and sew along the line next to it.

Sew all of the parallel lines on one side of the center line and then sew all of the lines on the other side of the center line.

Next, quilt all of the diagonal lines slanting in the other direction in the same manner: Sew the center line and alternate directions as you sew along all parallel lines running to the right and then to the left of this center line.

Trim the batting so that it is the same size and shape as the Vest piece.

Trim any remaining threads, remove the safety pins and spray water all over the vest to erase the marked lines.

Repeat with the remaining Vest pieces in the Outer Fabric.

Attach Pockets

With the right side facing up, lay one of the quilted Vest Front pieces out flat.

With its right side facing up, place one Pocket on top of the Vest Front, top edge up. Arrange the Pocket so that its long straight edge is 2 inches from the Vest placket and its bottom edge is 1¾ inch from the bottom edge of the Vest (you can use the Pocket Lines on the pattern piece as a guide). Pin the Pocket in place along all its edges except the diagonal one.

Sew the Pocket in place with an edgestitch along the pinned sides. When you reach the corners, insert the needle and pivot so that you have one continuous seam line along all four edges. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.

Repeat with the other Pocket piece on the other Vest Front.

Piece Outer Fabric

With right sides together, stack one quilted Vest Front piece on top of the quilted Vest Back. Line up the raw edges of the side and shoulder seams. Pin these seams in place. Sew along the pinned edges with a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.


Press the seams open. Sew the seam allowances down with an edgestitch.

Repeat with the other Vest Front.

This is now the Outer Vest.

Lining

With right sides together, stack one Vest Front piece in the Lining Fabric on top of the Vest Back (also in the Lining Fabric). Line up the raw edges of the side and shoulder seams. Pin these seams in place. Sew along the pinned edges with a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.

Press the seams open. Sew along the raw edges of the seam allowances with a zigzag stitch.

Repeat with the other Vest Front in the Lining Fabric.

This is now the Vest Lining.

Attach the Outer Vest and Vest Lining

With wrong sides facing, tuck the Vest Lining into the Outer Vest, lining up all edges. Smooth out all wrinkles and pin in place along all the edges.

Sew all the way around the raw edges of the Vest (body and armholes) with a long basting edgestitch, making sure to pick up all three layers (Outer Fabric, Batting and Lining) as you sew.

Bind

With right sides facing, sew the long, pieced Binding to the body edge of the Vest with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Start at the center back neck of the Vest and about 2 inches from one short edge of the Binding.

TIP: Because pinning through the multiple layers of fabric can get tricky, I found it easiest to sew the Binding in place without pinning it. I just took it slowly and was very careful at the curves. If you feel more confident securing the fabric, I suggest using the Wonder Clips to hold the layers together.

Continue to sew the Binding in place until you are about 3 inches from the beginning of the seam.

Fold the extra length of both ends of the Binding toward the wrong sides so that the creases of each end meet in the middle of the gap. Press flat.

Sew the two ends of the Binding together at this pressed crease and trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch. Press the seam open. Sew across the gap with a ¼-inch seam allowance.

Now, flip the Vest so that the wrong side is facing up. Fold the Binding over the raw edge of the Vest, and then tuck the raw edge of the Binding under, creating a fold that runs flush with the seam line from the previous step.

Working in sections, place the Wonder Clips every couple of inches to hold the folds of the Binding in place.

Using the Hand Quilting thread, sew the Binding to the wrong side of the Vest using a slip stitch. For detailed instructions on how to sew a slip stitch, please visit our Slip Stitch Tutorial!

Using the remaining pieces of Binding, repeat with the armhole edges. Start sewing in the underarm so that the seam of the Binding and the side seam are in line.

Attach the Snaps

Turn the Vest right side out and lay it flat so that the right side of the left Vest Front is on top. Using the Vest Front pattern piece as a guide, transfer the two Snap placement marks to the left Vest Front. Make 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) more marks along the placket edge for the remaining snaps, keeping them evenly spaced and in line with the first two snap marks.

Using the Hand Quilting thread, sew the socket side of the snaps to the marked spots.

Now turn the Vest inside out and lay it flat so that the wrong side of the left Vest Front is on top. Make marks on the wrong side of the right Vest Front at the points where the snaps hit.

Using the Hand Quilting Thread, sew the ball side of the snaps to the marked spots.

Amazing Seed Stitch Wrap

The Materials

External image

  • 11 skeins of worsted weight yarn (or approximately 1700 yards)

If you’d like get all eleven of these skeins, then you’ll just need one Yarn to Complete the Amazing Seed Stitch Wrap kit! Here’s what’s included, from the top:

The Pattern

Gauge

5 stitches = 1 inch in seed stitch

Finished Size

24 x 78 inches

Pattern Notes

The color order is pictured and listed above in The Materials section.

Begin

With the first color, cast on 109 stitches.

Row 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.

Repeat Row 1 for each row until end of skein.

Change to the second color at the beginning of the next row and repeat Row 1 until end of skein.

Repeat with each color, making sure to always change colors on the same side.

When you are nearly finished with the eleventh skein, bind off in pattern.

Weave in the ends and you’re finished!

3

Over-the-Top Top

Materials

Gauge

22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Sizes

36 (40, 44, 48, 52)

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) inches
  • Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 19 ½ (20, 20 ½, 21, 21 ½) inches
  • Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 11 ½ inches

EASE: This piece is designed with a 3 to 5-inch ease.
SAMPLE: The sample pictured here is size 36.

Notes

For this pattern, the purl side of the stockinette fabric is considered the “right side.”

m1 purlwise (make 1 purlwise): With the left needle, pick up the bar between the previous and next stitch from back to front, purl through the front loop. [1 stitch increased]

Pattern

Back

With scrap yarn, use a provisional cast on to cast 104 (115, 126, 137, 148) stitches onto the longer circular needle. I used a one-step technique. For some extra tips, visit our Provisional Cast On: a One-Step Method Tutorial.

Holding one strand of Yarn A and one strand of Yarn B…

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.

Row 2: K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2, until piece measures 2 inches from the cast-on edge, ending with Row 2.

Hem Back Bottom Edge

With the wrong (knit) side facing you, slip each stitch of the work’s first row onto the spare needle.

Pull out the provisional cast on.

Fold the work so wrong (knit) sides are together and right (purl) sides are facing out and the needles are parallel with the spare needle in front and the working needle behind.

Holding the needles parallel in your left hand, use the other end of the working needle to work across the stitches on both needles…

[P2tog] two times (one stitch from each needle), k2tog (one stitch from each needle) until two stitches remain on each needle, [p2tog] two times (one stitch from each needle).

Continue Back Body

Continue evenly in established pattern (see Back section), beginning with Row 2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 18 ½ (19, 19 ½, 20, 20 ½) inches from hemmed edge or approximately 1 inch shy of desired finished length from hemmed edge to shoulder, ending with Row 2.

Divide for Shoulders and Back Neckline

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit 29 (34, 38, 42, 47), place previous 31 (36, 40, 44, 49) stitches on hold for Left Shoulder, knit 42 (43, 46, 49, 50), place previous 42 (43, 46, 49, 50) stitches on hold for Back Neckline, knit to last two stitches, p2. [31 (36, 40, 44, 49) stitches remain for Right Shoulder]

Shoulders + Front Work Right Shoulder

Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last 3 stitches, p2tog, k1. [1 stitch decreased]

Row 2: P1, k2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. [25 (30, 34, 38, 43) stitches]

NOTE: This is the halfway point on the Right side. Place a removable stitch marker (or piece of scrap yarn) on the outer selvage at this point. This will mark where to fold the sweater when it comes time to seam the sides.

Row 3 (right side): K2, purl to last stitch, k1.

Row 4: P1, knit to last 2 stitches, p2.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 seven more times.

Shape Front Right Neckline

Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last stitch, make 1 (m1) purlwise (see NOTES section above), k1. [1 stitch increased]

Row 2: P1, make 1 right (m1R), knit to last 2 stitches, p2. [1 stitch increased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven more times. [41 (46, 50, 54, 59) stitches]

Place the Front Right stitches on hold.

Cut Yarns A and B.

Work Left Shoulder

Slip the on-hold Left Shoulder stitches onto the longer circular needle. With the wrong side facing, join a strand of both Yarn A and Yarn B…

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last 3 stitches, ssk, p1. [1 stitch decreased]

Row 2: K1, p2tog tbl (through back loop), purl to last 2 stitches, k2. [1 stitch decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. [25 (30, 34, 38, 43) stitches]

NOTE: This is the halfway point on the Left side. As you did on the Right side, now place a removable stitch marker (or piece of scrap yarn) on the outer selvage.

Row 3 (wrong side): P2, knit to last stitch, p1.

Row 4: K1, purl to last two stitches, k2.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 seven more times.

Shape Front Left Neckline

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to last stitch, make 1 left (m1L), p1. [1 stitch increased]

Row 2: K1, m1 purlwise, purl to last two stitches, k2. [1 stitch increased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven more times. [41 (46, 50, 54, 59) stitches]

Join Front Left and Front Right

Row 1 (wrong side): P2, knit to end of Front Left stitches; turn work and with right side facing, cable cast on 22 (23, 26, 29, 30) stitches; turn work and with wrong side facing, knit Front Right stitches to last two stitches, p2. [104 (115, 126, 137, 148) total stitches]

Continue Front

Row 1 (right side): K2, purl to last two stitches, k2.

Row 2: P2, knit to last two stitches, p2.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 20 ½ (21, 21 ½, 22, 22 ½) inches from the halfway mark or 1 inch longer than the desired length from the halfway mark to the Back Bottom Hem.

Repeat Row 1.

Hem Front Bottom Edge

With wrong (knit) side facing, find the row that measures 2 inches from the working needle. Slip each stitch of that row onto the spare needle.

Fold the hem, wrong sides together; so that the purl sides are facing out and the needles are parallel, the spare needle in front and the working needle behind.

Holding the needles parallel in your left hand, use the other end of the working needle to work a 3-needle bind off in pattern. Here’s how…

[P2tog] two times (one stitch from each needle, bind off one, *k2tog (one stitch from each needle), bind off one, repeat from * until two stitches remain on each needle, [p2tog (one stitch from each needle), bind off one] two times.

Finish

NOTE: Right now is a great time to weave in all the tails. Taking care of them now makes seaming the sides and picking up for the Armholes and Neckline a bit easier.

Seam the Sides

Fold the piece in half, wrong sides together, at the removable stitch markers (or pieces of scrap yarn) that you placed at the Shoulders. The right (purl) sides are facing out. Thread a length of both Yarn A and Yarn B onto a tapestry needle and use mattress stitch to seam each side.

Start just above the hemmed bottom edges and end 8 (8 ½, 9 ¼, 9 ½, 9 ¾) inches before the Shoulder folds.

Add Hemmed Edge to Armholes

NOTE: Work the following section for each Armhole.

With the right (purl) side facing you, join one strand of Yarn A and Yarn B and use the shorter needle to pick up stitches around the Armhole. Starting at the underarm, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows around the entire Armhole.

Place marker and join for working in the round. With the right (purl) side facing you…

Round 1 (right side): Purl.

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 inch from where you picked up.

Fold over the new inch of fabric so you can see its wrong (knit) side. Slip each stitch of the first Round 1 onto the spare needle.

Fold the hem, wrong (knit) sides together, and holding the working and spare needles parallel in your left hand, use the other end of the working needle to work a three-needle bind off, knitwise.

Add Hemmed Edge to Neckline

Looking at the Back, with the right (purl) side facing, slip the on-hold stitches onto the shorter needle. Join one strand of Yarn A and Yarn B to pick up stitches around the rest of the Neckline. Pick up one stitch for each row along the slanted edges; pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the 16-row vertical Shoulder edge on each side; and pick up one stitch for each cast-on stitch along the Front Neckline.

Place marker and join for working in the round. With the right (purl) side facing you…

Round 1 (right side): Purl.

Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 1 inch from where you picked up.

Just as you did with each Armhole, fold over the new inch of fabric so you can see its wrong (knit) side. Slip each stitch of the first Round 1 onto the spare needle.

Fold the hem, wrong (knit) sides together, and holding the working and spare needles parallel in your left hand, use the other end of the working needle to work a three-needle bind off, knitwise.

Weave + Block

Weave in any remaining ends and block as desired.

Tutorial: Sewing Panties

This post is part of the Stretch Yourself series, hosted by Miriam of Mad Mim and Miranda of One Little Minute. It is a two week long series about sewing with knits that have started last week, covering various topics like fabric selection, pattern-making, construction, finishing techniques with various style and projects by 10 guest bloggers.

Today I am honored to be one of the guest blogger! Don’t forget to check out Jodi at Sew Fearless who will also posting about using stretch lace.

External image

Sewing panties

Sewing Panties

My tutorial is for sewing your own panties, but most especially about using and attaching several types of elastics. Sewing your own panties is fast and easy, really it is much more faster than reading this whole tutorial. You don’t need too much fabric, and can even recycle fabric from old T-shirts. With imaginations, you can have a drawer full of pretty and colorful panties in no time!

You will need:

External image

Elastics and fabric

  • Stretch fabric: lycra, jersey. The amount will depend on your size, but usually about 0.5 m is enough. Old T-shirts can also be used!
  • 4-7 mm width elastic, about 1.5-2 m for each panties. I usually use the plush picot edge elastic, it has one soft side that will make it comfortable against the skin. I will also show how to use foldover elastic and regular elastic.
  • No serger needed! An ordinary sewing machine that can sew straight stitch, zigzag stitch, and 3 step zigzag stitch (optional) is all you need. Use ballpoint sewing machine needle for sewing jersey/stretch as regular sewing needle can be too sharp and damage the fabric.
  • And of course, a pattern. There are many free panties pattern available on the net, here is some of them:

You can also trace them yourself from the ones you already have. Cut the panties on the seamline and trace them on paper. Then add 6 mm (1/4″) seam allowance to all pattern pieces.

Cutting the fabric

External image

Placing pattern pieces

  • For most pattern, you will have three pieces, front, back, and crotch.
  • Fold your fabric and place your pattern pieces. Pay careful attention to the grainline marks. The finished panties will be twisted if the grainline is off.

External image

  • You will usually have 1 front piece, 1 back piece and 2 crotch pieces (one is for crotch lining).
  • If your fabric is lycra, use cotton jersey for the crotch lining because it is more comfortable. I usually cut old T-shirts for this purpose.
  • Transfer the pattern markings to the fabric. You can use fabric marker, but some tiny snips are usually enough.

Points to remember:

  • You can use straight stitch to sew the panties, but I prefer to use zigzag stitch to maintain the stretchiness of the fabric. When using straight stitches, sometimes the stitches might ‘pop’ when the fabric is stretched.
  • I usually set my zigzag stitch on 2.5 in width and 1.5-2 in length.
  • Stretch the fabric slightly when sewing, matching the edges. You don’t need to use too many pins.

Sewing the panties

External image

  • Sandwich the back piece between two crotch pieces, matching all the stitching marks. Pay attention to the fabric sides. Both right sides of the crotch piece should be against the back piece. Hold the layers with pins.
External image

Stitch the sandwiched layers together

  • Stitch the sandwiched layers together using zigzag stitches. Hold the fabric and stretch them slightly with your fingers to nudge the edges together.

External image

  • Roll the back piece between the two crotch pieces.

External image

  • Sandwich the front piece between crotch piece and crotch lining, again while paying attention to the fabric sides. Stitch these layers together as before.

External image

  • Turn the crotch inside out. Voila! All crotch seams are hidden inside!
  • Sew each side seams of the panties. It’s time to sew the elastics!

Sewing the elastics: picot edge

External image
Picot edge elastic has one picoted edge and one straight side. The picot edge will look very pretty peeking a bit around the waist and leg openings. Some of them has plush side to make it comfortable against the skin.

External image

Mark the center back and front

  • Measure the waistline of the panties and cut your elastic about 15-20% shorter than the measurement. Add 1 cm (5/8″) allowance before you cut.
  • You can also measure the elastic by placing it around your waist comfortably.
  • Mark the center point of the elastic with pin or fabric marker, also mark the center back and front of the waist.
External image

Pin the elastic to the fabric

  • Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the right side of the fabric,  Line the straight edge (non picoted) of the elastic against the edge of fabric. Pin the center of elastic to the center front.
External image

Stretch-hold-sew

  • Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch, making it as close as possible to the picoted edge.
  • When sewing elastic to the fabric, you should stretch ONLY the elastic and not the fabric.
  • I don’t use other pins other than the two above and only do the stretch-hold-sew. Stretch the elastic slightly, put your thumb down to hold it in place, and sew. Repeat until you reach the center back again.

External image

  • Overlap the end of elastic by 1 cm.
  • If necessary, trim the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
External image

Topstitch using 3 step zigzag stitch or ordinary zigzag stitch

  • Turn the elastic to the wrong side and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch. I usually set the stitch on 4-5 in width and 1.5-2 in length.
  • Stretch slightly when sewing. You don’t have to use any pins at all in this step. Don’t forget to backstitch at the end of stitching.
  • If your sewing machine don’t have 3 step zigzag stitches, ordinary zigzag stitch or other decorative stitches can also be used.

External image

  • Repeat the procedure for both leg openings.
  • When sewing the elastic to the leg openings, I usually start on the crotch.
  • Pin end of elastic to a random point on the crotch. Pin center of elastic to approximately halfway point of leg.
External image

Picot edge elastic

  • Your panties is finished! Sometimes the elastic stretched up a little after sewing, but it will spring back after washing.

Sewing the elastics: foldover elastic

External image
Foldover elastic has a slightly shiny side with a folding line along the middle.  The folding line will make it easier to keep the elastic in the same width on either side of fabric. They will create a clean, neat finish to the panties.
External image

Sewing foldover elastic

  • Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric,  Line the edge of the elastic
    against the edge of fabric.
  • Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch, keeping the stitches in one side of the folding line that is farther from the fabric edge. Stretch the elastic slightly when sewing.
  • Trim the seam allowance .
  • Fold the elastic on the folding line, and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch.
External image

Foldover elastic

Sewing the elastics: regular elastic

External image
Regular elastic may not look as nice as picot edge or foldover elastics, but it doesn’t mean that you can’t use them! You can also use this following method to sew clear elastics.

External image

Sewing regular elastic

  • Starting on the center back, place the elastic on the wrong side of the fabric,  Line the edge of the elastic
    against the edge of fabric.
  • Sew the elastic using zigzag stitch. Stretch the elastic slightly when sewing.
  • Turn the elastic to the wrong side and topstitch from the right side using 3 step zigzag stitch.
External image

Regular elastic

Ideas:

  • Sew tiny embellishment to the front of panties, tiny bows, crystals, buttons.
  • Slash the pattern in several pieces and use them to mix fabric in different colors or patterns.
  • Use picot edge elastic on the neckline and armholes of your nighties and camisoles!

Thank you and I hope the tutorial will be useful!

Patterns I Like:

Retro Ribbed Tights

Knit up a pair of these, and winter has nothing on you. Sized for adults, subteens, and children. By Spinnerin.

Fits body sizes: 24", 27", 31" waist; 33", 37", 41" hips; 10.5", 11", 11.5" waist-to-crotch.

Gauge: 13 sts = 2" adult size; 7 sts = 1" subteen size; 15 sts = 2" child size.

Whit’s Knits: Swan’s Island Organic Merino Long Striped Hand Warmers

The Materials

External image

  • 2 skeins of Swan’s Island Fingering, 100% organic merino. These colors are “Grey” and “Spring Green”. One skein of each is enough to make four or five pairs of hand warmers!

The Pattern

Gauge

8 ½ stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch with the larger needles

Finished Size

To fit average woman - 7 inches in circumference and 12 ½ inches long

The Cuff

With the Main Color (MC) and a set of US #2 double pointed needles, cast on 60 stitches.

Join to work in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

*K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat this round 7 more times.

Changing to US #3 double pointed needles,

**Knit 1 round with MC.

Knit 1 round with the Contrast Color (CC).

Repeat from ** until the piece measures 8 inches from the cast on edge. (If you need some tips on how to knit stripes, check out the “Knitting Stripes in the Round” section of the Rochefort Chapeau pattern.)

Knit 1 more round, ending with an increase (m1). (61 stitches)

External image

The Gusset

Continuing the established stripe pattern,

Round 1: K30, place a marker, m1L, k1, m1R, place a marker, k30. (63 stitches)

External image

Round 2: Knit.

Round 3: Knit to first marker, slip marker, m1L, knit to second marker, m1R, slip marker, knit to end of round. (2 stitches increased)

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until there are 19 stitches between the markers.

External image

Next round: Knit to the second marker, place the previous 19 stitches (ie the thumb stitches) on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, knit to the end of the round. (60 stitches on needles)

External image

The Palm

Next Round: Continuing the stripe pattern, knit to the thumb gap, close the gap by knitting the next stitch and pulling a little extra tight, knit to the end of the round.

External image

Continue to knit in the established stripe pattern until the palm measures 1 ¾ inches from the thumb gap (or until the palm reaches your pinky knuckle). End the palm with a round of the MC.

Changing to US #2 double pointed needles and using just the MC,

 *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat this round 5 more times.

Bind off in the rib pattern.

External image

The Thumb

With the next color in the stripe pattern and a US# 3 double pointed needle, pick up 3 stitches from the base joint of the thumb.

External image

Continue with the same color to finish knitting the round, distributing the stitches onto three needles. (22 stitches)

External image

Continuing the stripe pattern, knit until the thumb measures 3/8 of an inch from the base of the thumb. 

End the thumb with a round of the MC.

Changing to US #2 double pointed needles and using just the MC,

 *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat this round 3 more times.

Bind off in the rib pattern.

External image

Weave in all the ends. I also blocked my hand warmers to even out the stitches a little bit which worked great!

External image

Update on September 24, 2010 by
External image
purl bee

External image

We loved last winter’s Long Striped Hand Warmers so much that we’re still thinking about them this fall! The opportunity that a one row stripe offers to play with color is just irresistible to us. When two colors are in such intense juxtaposition they can start to effect each other in really unexpected and exciting ways, bouncing, shifting and glowing.

External image

We still absolutely LOVE the original pair for which we used the unbelievably beautiful Swan’s Island Fingering, and it’s still a great choice for this project, beautifully hand dyed, sophisticated and as soft and light as a feather.  But, we thought that it would be an interesting (and fun!) exercise to see how the Long Striped Hand Warmer’s stitch pattern would look if we used Alchemy’s Juniper. Also a fingering weight merino, Alchemy’s vivid palette is very different in tone from Swan’s Island’s more subdued colors. We knit up swatches of these six color combinations, each one surprising us in the end!

External image

The above colors are Kai’s Goldfish (bottom) and Husk (top), a mixture of spicy tomato red with a soft and mellow camel.

External image

These are Fuchsia and Fool’s Gold, a shocking cool pink with a rich curry color.

External image

These are Hush and Fieldstone, two quiet colors, one a dusty lavender and the other a warm mushroom.

External image

These are Turquoise Pool and Cornflower Blue, one a pumped of version of the other.

External image

These are Tea Leaf and Dragon, a pure grass green with a deeply saturated olive.

External image

These are Canary and Fieldstone, a sunny perfect yellow with a hushed warm gray.

It’s fun to pick your favorite. We can’t agree! Page’s favorite is the Kai’s Goldfish, Joelle’s is fuchsia, Molly’s is Canary and Whitney’s is the Tea Leaf.  What’s yours?

PATTERN NOTES: If you decide to try the Long Striped Hand Warmers with the Juniper you will still only need one skein of each color, but you will probably need to go down a needle size. I used a set of US #1 and a set of US #2 double pointed needles. –Whitney

3

Box Pleat Top

Materials

Gauge

28 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Sizes

40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) inches

  • Finished Chest Circumference: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60) inches
  • Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 13 (13, 13 ½, 13 ½, 14, 14 ¼) inches
  • Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 20 (20 ½, 21 ½, 22, 22 ¾, 23 ½) inches

EASE: This piece is designed with a 6- to 8-inch ease.

SAMPLE: Size 44

Pattern

Body

Cast 280 (308, 336, 364, 392, 420) stitches onto the circular needle.

Place a marker and join to work in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.

Knit every round until piece measures 13 (13, 13 ½, 13 ½, 14, 14 ¼) inches from the cast-on edge, ending the last round 8 (10, 12, 13, 15, 16) stitches before the marker.

Separate the Front + Back

Bind off 14 (18, 22, 24, 28, 30) stitches (removing the marker), knit 97 (107, 117, 129, 139, 151) and put previous 98 (108, 118, 130, 140, 152) stitches onto stitch holders or a piece of scrap yarn (you will use them later to knit the Back), bind off next 14 (18, 22, 24, 28, 30) stitches, knit to end of round. [252 (272, 292, 316, 336, 360] total stitches; [154 (164, 174, 186, 196, 208)] live stitches for Front and 98 (108, 118, 130, 140, 152) on-hold stitches for Back.

Front

Note: You will work this section back and forth in rows over the 154 (164, 174, 186, 196, 208) Front stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven (nine, eleven, thirteen, fifteen, seventeen) more times. [138 (144, 150, 158, 164, 172) stitches]

Work in stockinette stitch until armhole measures 3 (3 ½, 3 ¾, 4, 4 ¼, 4 ¾) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Next row (right side): Knit 63 (65, 68, 71, 73, 77) stitches for Left Front Shoulder and turn so the wrong side is facing you.

Leave the remaining 75 (79, 82, 87, 91, 95) stitches on hold on the needle.

Left Front Shoulder

NOTE: You will work this section over just the 63 (65, 68, 71, 73, 77) Left Front Shoulder stitches.

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.

Row 2: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [1 stitch decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 six (six, seven, eight, eight, eight) more times, then work Row 1 once again. [56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 68) stitches]

Note: You’re about to make a box pleat. See how it’s done with our Box Pleat video tutorial!


Box Pleat Row (right side): Knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 15). Make sure the working yarn is at the back of the work and slip next 7 stitches purlwise onto a double pointed needle (Needle A), slip following 7 stitches purlwise onto a second double pointed needle (Needle B). Bring Needles A and B parallel to each other, creating a fold in the fabric that is wrong sides together. Now lay Needles A and B parallel to the front side of the left end of the circular needle, creating a fold in the fabric that is right sides together. All three needles are parallel and Needle A is closest to you.

*Insert the right end of the circular needle (or a third double pointed needle) through the first stitches of Needle A, Needle B, and the left needle. Knit all three of these stitches together and let them drop them off of their respective needles. Repeat from * until all 7 stitches have been joined (right-hand side of Box Pleat completed). Note: If you used a double pointed needle to knit the stitches together, slide the 7 joined stitches back onto to right needle.

Now, again, make sure the working yarn is at the back of the work and slip next 7 stitches purlwise onto Needle A, slip following 7 stitches purlwise onto Needle B. Bring Needles A and B parallel to each other, creating a fold in the fabric that is right sides together. Now lay Needles A and B parallel to the back side of the left end of the circular needle, creating a fold in the fabric that is wrong sides together. All three needles are parallel and the circular needle is closest to you.

**Insert the right end of the needle (or a third double pointed needle) through the first stitches of the left needle, Needle B, and Needle A. Knit all three of these stitches together and drop them off of their respective needles. Repeat from ** until all 7 stitches have been knit together (left-hand side of Box Pleat completed). Note: If you used a double pointed needle to knit the stitches together, slide the 7 joined stitches back onto to right needle.

Knit remaining 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) stitches. [28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 40) stitches]

Next Row: Purl.

Next Row: Knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [1 stitch decreased]

Repeat last 2 rows once more. [26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 38) stitches]

Work in stockinette stitch until armhole measures 7 (7 ½, 8, 8 ½, 8 ¾, 9 ¼) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Place stitches on stitch holder.

Right Front Shoulder

Note: You will work this section over just the 75 (79, 82, 87, 91, 95) Right Front Shoulder stitches.

With the right side facing you, join yarn.

Row 1 (right side): Bind off 12 (14, 14, 16, 18, 18) stitches, knit to end of row. [63 (65, 68, 71, 73, 77) stitches]

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K1, ssk, knit to end. [1 stitch decreased]

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 six (six, seven, eight, eight, eight) more times, then work Row 2 once again. [56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 68) stitches]

Box Pleat Row: Work as for previous Box Pleat Row, but this time start the row with knit 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11), work the Box Pleat, and end the row with knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 15) stitches. [28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 40) stitches]

Next Row: Purl.

Next Row: K1, ssk, knit to end. [1 stitch decreased]

Repeat last 2 rows once more. [26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 38) stitches]

Work in stockinette stitch until armhole measures 7 (7 ½, 8, 8 ½, 8 ¾, 9 ¼) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Place stitches on stitch holder.

BACK

Return to the needle the 98 (108, 118, 130, 140, 152) Back stitches that have been on hold. With the wrong side facing you, join yarn.

Row 1 (wrong side): Purl

Row 2: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven (nine, eleven, thirteen, fifteen, seventeen) more times. [82 (88, 94, 102, 108, 116) stitches]

Work in stockinette stitch until armhole measures 5 (5 ½, 6, 6 ½, 6 ¾, 7 ¼) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Next Row (right side): Knit 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 38) stitches for Right Shoulder and turn so the wrong side is facing you.

Leave the remaining 56 (60, 64, 70, 74, 78) stitches on hold on the needle.

Right Back Shoulder

Note: You will work this section over just the 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 38) Right Back Shoulder stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch until armhole measures 7 (7 ½, 8, 8 ½, 8 ¾, 9 ¼) inches, ending with a wrong side row.

Place stitches on stitch holder.

Left Back Shoulder

Note: You will work this section over just the 56 (60, 64, 70, 74, 78) Left Back Shoulder stitches.

With the right side facing you, join yarn.

Row 1 (right side): Bind off 30 (32, 34, 38, 40, 40) stitches, knit to end of row. [26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 38) stitches]

Work in stockinette stitch until armhole measures 7 (7 ½, 8, 8 ½, 8 ¾, 9 ¼) inches, ending with a wrong side row. Place stitches on stitch holder.

Finish Shoulder Seams

Graft each pair of shoulder stitches together using the Kitchener Stitch.

Armhole Edging

With the right side facing you and beginning at the center of one underarm, use double pointed needles to pick up 1 stitch from each stitch along horizontal edges and one stitch in each row along vertical edges, around the entire armhole. Loosely bind off all stitches as follows: *K2tog tbl (through the back loop), place stitch back on left needle, repeat from * to end. Cut yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.

Repeat for other armhole.

Neck Edging

Work as for armhole, starting with the Back neck bound off stitches. Loosely bind off all stitches, as described in the Armhole Edging section.

Bottom Hem

With circular needle and the right side facing you, pick up 1 stitch around the cast on edge and bind off all stitches as for Armhole and Neck Edging.

Weave in ends and block as desired.

4

City Gym Shorts for All Ages

Materials

Kids

Women

Sizes

Kids

  • To fit ages 2 (3, 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10, 11) with finished waist sizes 19 (20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25) inches in circumference

Women

  • To fit hip sizes 33-34 (35-37, 38-40, 41-43, 44-46) inches in circumference

Notes

Pre-wash all fabrics before starting.

To print the PDF template, be sure to first download the pattern and then print it. This means rather than simply clicking the link and opening the PDF in a browser window, you should click on the pattern link using the “right click” or “control click” option on your mouse or keyboard. This will give you the option to “Download the linked file.” Once the file is downloaded, it should print like a charm!

For the sake of clarity our instructional photos use Robert Kaufman’s Botanics + Architextures in Tangerine Hatches, a fabric with a clear right and wrong side, for the front panels (instead of the Tana Lawn). When you are working with a fabric without a clear right or wrong side, choose either side as the right side for the first seam and follow this precedent for all subsequent steps.

Pattern

Cut

Front Pieces

Use the prepared Template to cut two Front pieces from the Liberty. Cut one Front with the right side of the fabric facing up and one with the wrong side facing up. The two Front pieces should be mirror images of each other.

Back Pieces

Use the prepared Template to cut two Back pieces from the Chambray Union. (If you are using a fabric that has a right and wrong side, be sure to cut the pieces as described above so that the two Back pieces are mirror images of each other.)

Waistband

Cut one 4 ¾-inch wide piece for the Waistband from the Chambray Union. For Kids it should measure 23 (24 ¼, 26 ¾, 28 ¾, 30 ¾, 32 ½, 33 ½) inches long; or for Women, 36 ¼ (38 ½, 41 ¾, 45 ½, 48) inches long.

Bias Strips

Cut two 1 5/8-inch strips on the bias from the Chambray Union. For Kids each strip should measure at least 30 (33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48) inches long; or for Women, at least 48 (50, 53, 56, 60) inches long.

You may need to piece the strips to get the appropriate length. For detailed instructions on how to piece binding strips, please visit our Making Bias Tape Binding Tutorial.

Elastic

Cut the Elastic. For Kids it should measure 19 ½ (20 ½, 21 ½, 22 ½, 23 ½, 24 ½, 25 ½) inches; or for Women, 30 (32, 35, 39, 43) inches.

Piece the Front and Back Pieces

With right sides facing, stack the two Front pieces on top of each other. Pin along the concave edge of the inseam.

Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.

Sew along the seam allowance with a zigzag stitch.

Press the seam to one side.

Repeat with the two Back pieces.

With right sides facing, match up the short crotch ends of the Front and Back along the raw edge, making sure that the center seams line up, and pin in place. Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.

Sew along the seam allowance with a zigzag stitch.

Press the seam to one side.

Attach the Binding

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, use the 18mm Bias Tape Maker to press the bias strips into single fold bias tape.

Fold in half lengthwise, aligning the folded edges and encasing the raw edges. Press.

Pin the bias tape around the outside edge of the shorts, following the raw edge all the way from the top corner of the Front side, around the bottom hemline, and up the Back side, or vice versa. Use one strip for each side. With the right side facing up, sew the tape to the shorts with an edgestitch, making sure to catch both sides as you stitch.

Sew the Side Edges

With the right sides of the Front and Back both facing up, bring one Front side edge over one Back side edge so that the two bound edges are stacked on top of each other. Push the outer edge of the front about 1/8 inch towards the Back so that the sewn line of the Front bias tape runs roughly through the center of the bias tape on the back.

Working from the waistline down and using the line of stitching on the Front bias tape as a guide, sew the Front to the Back along this side edge. stop sewing when you reach the top of the curve of the bottom hem. Backstitch at the end of the seam.

Repeat with the other side.

These are now the Shorts.

Sew the Waistband

Fold the Waistband piece in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press to create a crease. Open up the fold. Now, fold the two long raw edges in towards the wrong side to meet at the center crease. Press the folds. Refold in half lengthwise, aligning the folded edges and encasing the raw edges. Press again.

Open up the folds at the two short ends. With right sides together, stack the ends together, matching up their raw edges. Pin in place. Sew along the short edge with a 5/8-inch seam allowance.

Press the seam to one side and sew it down with an edgestitch.

Turn the Shorts inside out.

Open one side of the waistband. With the right side of the Waistband facing the wrong side of the Shorts and matching up the seam of the Waistband with the center seam of the Shorts Back, pin the open raw edge of the Waistband to the raw waist edge of the shorts.

Sew the Waistband to the Shorts with a roughly 1 1/8-inch seam allowance, using the crease as a guide.

Now, turn the Shorts so that the right side is facing out. Fold the Waistband over the Shorts’ raw waist edge and pin in place.

Edgestitch along the bottom of the fold of the Waistband, leaving a 1 ½-inch gap.

Attach a safety pin to one end of the Elastic. Insert this end into the gap. Pull the pin through the Waistband, exiting out the other side. Make sure not to pull the Elastic’s other end into the channel.

Checking that the Elastic isn’t twisted, overlap the two ends by ½ inch. Sew the ends together widthwise with a zigzag stitch.

Tuck the Elastic into the Waistband and close the gap with an edgestitch.

Your shorts are ready to wear!

Needles I Like:

Set of 12 Carbonized Bamboo Crochet Hooks, 3mm - 10mm in Silk Pouch

Set of 12 smooth, carbonized bamboo crochet hooks, 15cm long, sizes: 3.0mm, 3.5mm, 4.0mm, 4.5mm, 5.0mm, 5.5mm, 6.0mm, 6.5mm, 7.0mm, 8.0mm, 9.0mm, 10mm. A silk pouch of random colour and pattern. Photos show sample silk pouches. The image of the sealed set with the original barcode number on it - shows the genuine ADF TM quality hooks, with large metric sizes marked on them (no Chinese characters)

Whit’s Knits: Hudson’s Bay Inspired Crib Blanket

The Materials

External image

  • Anzula’s For Better Or Worsted, 80% Superwash Merino Wool , 10% Cashmere and 10% Nylon. You’ll need:
    • 6 skeins of Au Natural
    • 1 skein of Teal
    • 1 skein of Ducky
    • 1 skein of Candied Apple
    • 1 skein of Juniper

The Pattern

Gauge

19 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch

Finished Size

34 inches wide and 39 inches long (Note: Garter stitch has a tendency to stretch, so your blanket will “grow” beyond these dimensions.)

Notes

  • When this pattern refers to “ridges”, it means a garter stitch ridge which is formed by knitting two rows. Counting “ridges” is an easy way to determine how many rows you have knitted without having to count as you work. But if you find this confusing, just multiply the number of ridges given by 2 and that is how many rows you should knit (ie 6 ridges is 12 rows).
  • Always change colors with the right side facing you, so that all of the tails are along the same selvedge.

Begin

With the Main Color (Au Natural), cast on 162 stitches.

Knit until piece measures 4 ½ inches from the cast on edge (or 21 ridges).

With the Teal, knit 6 ridges.

With the Main Color, knit 6 ridges.

With the Ducky, knit 6 ridges.

With the Main Color, knit 6 ridges.

With the Candied Apple, knit 6 ridges.

With the Main Color, knit 6 ridges.

With the Juniper, knit 6 ridges.

With the Main Color, knit for 11 ¾ inches (or 53 ridges).

With the Juniper, knit 6 ridges.

With the Main Color, knit 6 ridges.

With the Candied Apple, knit 6 ridges.

With the Main Color, knit 6 ridges.

With the Ducky, knit 6 ridges.

With the Main Color, knit 6 ridges.

With the Teal, knit 6 ridges.

With the Main Color, knit 4 ½ inches (or 21 ridges).

Bind off loosely in knit stitch.

Weave in the ends and tada!

Laura’s Loop: Striped Summer Shirt

Materials

External image

  • Main Color (MC): 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins of Habu’s Silk Gima, 100% silk. I used the color 00 White.
  • Contrast Color 1 (CC1): 2 cones of Habu’s Linen Wrapped Silk, 99% silk, 1 % linen. I used the color 5 Red.
  • Contrast Color 2 (CC2): 1 cone of Habu's Linen Wrapped Silk, 99% silk, 1 % linen. I used the color 8 Salmon.
  • A US #2, 32-inch circular needle (A circular needle is required because the stitch pattern, when worked flat, requires you to slide the stitches from one end of the needle to the other. I highly recommend using Skacel’s Addi Turbo Rocket circular needles. They have the tips of Skacel’s lace needles and the body of their original nickel-plated Addi Turbos!)
  • A US #2, 12 or 16-inch circular needle (optional; for picking up and working upper sleeves)
  • A set of US #2 double pointed needles
  • 1 removable stitch marker

External image

For a blue colorway… 

  • MC: 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) skeins of Habu's Silk Gima, 100% silk. In the color 00 White.
  • CC1: 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) cones of Habu’s Wool Crepe, 100% wool. This is the color 3 Blue.
  • CC2: 2 cones of Habu's Wool Crepe, 100% wool. This is the color 5 Light Blue.

Gauge

26 stitches and 35 ½ rows = 4 inches in striped stitch pattern, blocked (See BEGIN STRIPING section below for swatching in the round and/or see CONTINUE BACK EVENLY for swatching flat.)

NOTE: Blocking this fabric drastically changes the gauge, so it is essential you block your gauge swatch. I suggest submerging your swatch in water rather than simply spritzing or steaming it. After submerging, gently squeeze out any excess water, then lay the swatch flat on a towel and pin in place to dry. Allow the swatch to dry completely before you measure the gauge.

Sizes 

  • XSmall (Small, Medium, Large, XLarge)
  • Finished Chest Circumference: 34 ½ (38 ¾, 42 ½, 46 ¾, 50 ½) inches
  • Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 21 ¾ (22 ¼, 22 ¾, 23 ½, 24) inches 
  • Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 14 inches, with directions to modify
  • Length from Center of Neck to Cuff: 26 ½ (27 ½, 28 ½, 29 ½, 30 ½) inches
  • Ease: This piece is designed with a 2 to 3-inch ease.

Notes

sskp (slip slip knit pass): slip two stitches together knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitches together over knit stitch and off needle. [2 stitches decreased]

 

Pattern

Body

Begin at Bottom Edge

With MC, cast 224 (252, 276, 304, 328) stitches onto the longer circular needle. Place marker and join for working in the round being careful to not twist the stitches.

Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 1 ½ inches from the unrolled cast on edge.

Begin Striping

NOTE: For our Working Stripes in the Round Tutorial, please click here

Round 1: With CC1, knit.

Round 2: With CC1, purl.

Rounds 3, 4 and 5: With MC, knit.

Repeat Rounds 1-5 twenty one more times (or until pieces measures approximately 10 ½ inches from unrolled cast on edge, unblocked). Don’t be alarmed at how short the Body may look at this point; it is designed to block to 14 inches. To alter the bottom-hem-to-underarm length multiply your desired length by ¾ and work to that unblocked measurement.

Divide Front and Back

Round 1: With CC1, knit 112 (126, 138, 152, 164) stitches, place these stitches on hold for FRONT, knit to end of round. [112 (126, 138, 152, 164) stitches remain for BACK]

 

Back

NOTE: You will now be working back and forth in rows rather than in the round. Each row in this pattern ends with the instructions to either “turn” or “slide” the work:

“Turn” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with a circular needle. That is to say, put the needle in your left hand into your right and the needle in your right hand into your left, and flip the work around so the opposite side is facing you.

“Slide” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needle. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.

Shape Back Sleeves

Row 1 (wrong side): With CC1, knit to end of Back stitches, slide.

Cut CC1.

Row 2 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.

Row 3 (right side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, knit across these cast on stitches and then knit to end, turn. [118 (132, 144, 158, 170) Back stitches]

Row 4 (wrong side) With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, purl across these cast on stitches and then purl to end, turn. [124 (138, 150, 164, 176) Back stitches]

Row 5 (right side): Join CC1, knit to end, turn.

Row 6 (wrong side): With CC1, knit to end, turn.

Cut CC1.

Row 7 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.

Row 8 (wrong side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, purl across these cast on stitches and then purl to end, turn. [130 (144, 156, 170, 182) Back stitches]

Row 9 (right side): With MC, cable cast on 6 stitches, knit across these cast on stitches and then knit to end, slide. [136 (150, 162, 176, 188) Back stitches]

Row 10 (right side): Join CC1, knit to end, turn.

Cut CC1.

Continue Back Evenly

NOTE: For this section do not cut CC2 between stripes. Loosely carry CC2 up the edge to minimize the number of ends you’ll have to weave in.

External image

Join CC2 on wrong side…

Row 1 (wrong side): With CC2, knit to end, slide.

Row 2 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.

Row 3 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.

Row 4 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.

Row 5 (right side): With CC2, knit to end, turn. 

Row 6 (wrong side): With CC2, knit to end, turn.

Row 7 (right side): With MC, knit to end, turn.

Row 8 (wrong side): With MC, purl to end, turn.

Row 9 (right side): With MC, knit to end, slide.

Row 10 (right side): With CC2, knit, turn. 

Repeat Rows 1-10 five (five, six, six, seven) more times.

FOR SIZES – (Small, –, Large, –) ONLY

Repeat Rows 1-5 one more time.

FOR ALL SIZES

Next Row (wrong side): With CC2, knit 36 (43, 47, 53, 59) stitches, place these stitches on hold for BACK LEFT SHOULDER, loosely bind off following 64 (64, 68, 70, 70) stitches for NECK, knit to end, place previous 36 (43, 47, 53, 59) stitches on hold for BACK RIGHT SHOULDER. 

Cut CC2 and MC.

 

Front

Shape Front Sleeves

Slip FRONT on-hold stitches onto longer circular needle. Join CC1 to wrong side and…

Work Rows 1-10 of the SHAPE BACK SLEEVES section, above.

Continue Front Evenly

Work Rows 1-10 of the CONTINUE BACK EVENLY section, above, six (six, seven, seven, eight) times.

FOR SIZES – (Small, –, Large, –) ONLY

Work Rows 1-5 in the CONTINUE BACK EVENLY section, above, one more time.

FOR ALL SIZES

Next Row (wrong side): With CC2, knit 36 (43, 47, 53, 59) stitches, place these stitches on hold for FRONT RIGHT SHOULDER, loosely bind off following 64 (64, 68, 70, 70) stitches for NECK, knit to end. [36 (43, 47, 53, 59) stitches remain on needle for FRONT LEFT SHOULDER]

Cut MC.

 

Shoulders

Left Shoulder

External image

With the FRONT LEFT SHOULDER stitches already on the longer circular needle, working from neck-side to shoulder-side, slip the BACK LEFT SHOULDER stitches onto the other end of the needle. The tips of the needle should point away from the center of the sweater. 

Holding the needles parallel in your left hand, use either the shorter circular needle or a double pointed needle to work a 3-needle bind off to graft the shoulder stitches together. For our 3-Needle Bind Off Tutorial, click here.

Cut CC2.

Right Shoulder

Orient the FRONT RIGHT SHOULDER stitches and BACK RIGHT SHOULDER stitches onto the longer circular needle as you did for the left shoulder stitches. Join CC2, and once again use a 3-needle bind off to graft the shoulder stitches together.

Cut CC2.

 

Sleeves

Seam Underarm

NOTE: Before you seam together the cable cast on edges at the underarm, it’ll make your job easier if you first weave in the Contrast Color tails, just around this area.

External image

To seam the first underarm, hold the FRONT and BACK cable cast on edges parallel. Use a tapestry needle threaded with the MC yarn and seam together these edges, starting at the armpit and working outward. Sew under the knit stitch at the cast on edge of one side and then under the knit stitch directly opposite. Continue back and forth until you reach the end.

Pick Up for the Sleeve and Start Striping

With right side facing and starting to the left of the underarm seam, use the shorter circular or double pointed needles and CC2 to pick up a total of 77 (83, 89, 95, 101) stitches around the armhole. To do this, first pick up 2 stitches from MC stitches to the left of the seam; then continue up the armhole, picking up 1 stitch for each MC row and 1 stitch at the 3-needle bind off ridge; then continue down the other side, picking up 1 stitch for each MC row; and lastly, pick up 2 stitches from MC stitches just before the underarm seam. Place removable stitch marker and join for working in the round [77 (89, 89, 89, 101) stitches]

Round 1: With CC2, purl.

Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.

Round 5: With CC2, knit.

Cut CC2.

Transition Colors and Continue Evenly

Round 1: With CC1, purl.

Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.

Round 4: With CC1, knit.

Repeat Rounds 1-5 six (five, three, two, zero) more times.

Shape Sleeve

NOTE: If using a 12- or 16-inch circular needle, remember to switch to double pointed needles when necessary.

Round 1: With CC1, purl.

Round 2: With MC knit.

Round 3: Remove beginning-of-round marker, with MC, k1, mark previous stitch with removable stitch marker, knit to one stitch before marked stitch, remove removable stitch marker and place on right needle.

Round 4: With MC, slip slip knit pass (sskp; see NOTES above), knit to end. [2 stitches decreased]

Round 5: With CC1, knit.

Repeat Rounds 1-5 thirteen (15, 17, 19, 22) more times [49 (51, 53, 55, 55) stitches

Continue Evenly

Round 1: With CC1, purl.

Rounds 2, 3 and 4: With MC, knit.

Round 4: With CC1, knit.

Repeat Rounds 1- 5 three (2, 2, 1, 0) more time(s) or until 1 ½ inches shy of finished length.

Cut CC1.

With MC, knit evenly for 1 ½ inches.

Bind off loosely.

Repeat the entire SLEEVES section for second sleeve.

 

Finish

External image

Block sweater and allow to dry completely before you weave in the ends.

External image