edible forest gardening 101


#Edible Forest Gardening 101

An “herb spiral” garden accommodates for the unique needs of most culinary herbs. Made of stone, cement, brick–or another material with a high heat capacity–the spiral-shaped structure functions to create a series of different microclimates and drainage conditions.

  • Herbs that prefer dry conditions are planted near the top, where drainage is the best (ie. Thyme).
  • Herbs and other plants that prefer hot conditions are planted near the walls, where they take advantage of radiating heat at night (ie. Rosemary).
  • Herbs that prefer sheltered conditions are planted lower on the structure, where they are sheltered from prevailing winds (ie. Dill).
  • Herbs that prefer cool conditions are planted low on the side of the structure that receives less sunlight (ie. Chervil)
  • Herbs that prefer wet conditions are planted near the base of the spiral, to where the water drains (ie. Mint).

Right now, my herb spiral contains this baffling array or plants:

Mint (Moroccan, Spearmint, Chocolate, Garden, Water), Thyme (Lemon, Lemon Variegated, Lavender, English), Sage/Salvia (Italian, Purple), Chives (Garden, Chinese, Garlic, and Round-Headed Leek) Curry Plant, Lavender, Rosemary, Tarragon, Oregano, Parsley, Dill, Chervil, Sorrel, Black Cumin, and Coriander.

DIY herb spiral (steps):

#herb spiral #DIY #permaculture #edible landscaping #raised beds #herbs


Quick Vertical Garden for Strawberries

An old wine case and a waxed paper bag become home to twelve new strawberry cuttings, pruned from runners in the garden.

#DIY #upcycle #vertical gardening #container gardening #strawberries #edible landscaping #gif


#Edible Forest Gardening 101: Exponentially Multiplying Your Bounty

They may not look like much right now, but these 53 raspberry canes were grown from just 5 cuttings I received from a relative last year.

I’ve replanted them in a row, and the unrooted ones should strike over winter. With plants like raspberries and currants (also pictured), growing a new plant is as easy as sticking a pruned branch in the soil, and waiting. The failure rate is almost nil. I’ve mulched the area around them with dried grass, and I will cover the area in shredded leaf mould.

What looks like a row of sticks now will be a dense, 1.5 metre tall hedge of fruiting plants by next spring.

This particular variety fruits on “new wood,” so I can cut the plants down every year, and use the biomass as “chop and drop” mulch to improve soil nutrition for other plants.

#edible landscaping #cloning #propagation

belitaross  asked:

Hello, I was wondering if you have any advice for getting started with a pemaculture garden. I have look for videos on youtube(don't have any money to buy books) and can't find anything that helps a really, really green beginner. Any help would be very appreciated

Permaculture“ is a portmanteau of "permanent agriculture,” or “permanent culture.” It can mean a lot of things to a lot of different people. It is much more than a style of garden: it’s a holistic philosophy about land management and sustainability.

Personally, I have never taken a course or a certification in it, and I have also never belonged to any permaculture groups or organisations, but I would still call myself a “permaculturist,” even though I am self-taught.

All of the best free educational tools I have found are archived in the #resources, #videos, #DIY and #garden hacks archives.

I have been writing a series called #Edible Forest Gardening 101, which starts off rather simple, but gets more complex. If you are looking to try the forest garden model, that might be a good place to start. I have additional resources in the general #forest gardening archives. My practices also overlap quite a bit with the ideas of #edible landscaping, and #agroforestry, so you might also find useful information there.

If you are just getting started, I would recommend you learn about some basic topics. I try to archive everything I write and reblog so it’s like an accessible in-site library:

The first thing you need to really think about before you start your garden is your local biome. Living in accordance with your local ecology limits the amount of work you will have to do, and resources you will have to use in maintaining your space. this is called bioregionalism.

You should figure out:

  • Your USDA hardiness zone and AHS heat zone. When you are shopping for plants, this information will let you know what you can grow. Most greenhouses will mark their plants with a minimum temperature they can tolerate: if not, you can find this on the internet. Other things to consider are soil pH, light exposure, and water.
  • Your local natural biome type: is it Shortgrass Prairie? Riparian? Deciduous Forest? Tropical? Alpine? Arid? This information should also inform the kinds of plants you try to grow.
  • Your local laws and zoning ordinances; those bastards in municipal government can be real dicks about things like keeping chickens or planting trees. On a practical note, you should map out where your utilities are buried (call before you dig!)

For your first garden, I would recommend a permaculture classic that is very useful and fulfilling: this the the herb spiral. It can be easily built with salvaged materials, and provides you with all of the culinary herbs you need. It’s a good way to get your hands dirty, and to start learning about the different needs different plants have. Have a look through the archive and see if you find a design that is inspiring!

The point of permaculture is to derive the most abundance possible, with the least amount of work and disturbance of the environment. You will have a much easier time if you learn to work with nature than against her. Embrace things like birds and bugs snacking on your plants, and embrace the fact that plants die — everything has a place.

I run this blog to help people and get them excited about working with plants, so you can always write if you have a question!