drying techniques

Tough as a Tardigrade

Without water, a human can only survive for about 100 hours. But there’s a creature so resilient that it can go without it for decades. This one millimeter animal can survive both the hottest and coldest environments on Earth, and can even withstand high levels of radiation. This is the tardigrade, and it’s one of the toughest creatures on Earth, even if it does look more like a chubby, eight-legged gummy bear. 

Most organisms need water to survive. Water allows metabolism to occur, which is the process that drives all the biochemical reactions that take place in cells. But creatures like the tardigrade, also known as the water bear, get around this restriction with a process called anhydrobiosis, from the Greek meaning life without water. And however extraordinary, tardigrades aren’t alone. Bacteria, single-celled organisms called archaea, plants, and even other animals can all survive drying up.

For many tardigrades, this requires that they go through something called a tun state. They curl up into a ball, pulling their head and eight legs inside their body and wait until water returns. It’s thought that as water becomes scarce and tardigrades enter their tun state, they start synthesize special molecules, which fill the tardigrade’s cells to replace lost water by forming a matrix. 

Components of the cells that are sensitive to dryness, like DNA, proteins, and membranes, get trapped in this matrix. It’s thought that this keeps these molecules locked in position to stop them from unfolding, breaking apart, or fusing together. Once the organism is rehydrated, the matrix dissolves, leaving behind undamaged, functional cells.

Beyond dryness, tardigrades can also tolerate other extreme stresses: being frozen, heated up past the boiling point of water, high levels of radiation, and even the vacuum of outer space. This has led to some erroneous speculation that tardigrades are extraterrestrial beings.

While that’s fun to think about, scientific evidence places their origin firmly on Earth where they’ve evolved over time. In fact, this earthly evolution has given rise to over 1100 known species of tardigrades and there are probably many others yet to be discovered. And because tardigrades are so hardy, they exist just about everywhere. They live on every continent, including Antarctica. And they’re in diverse biomes including deserts, ice sheets, the sea fresh water, rainforests, and the highest mountain peaks. But you can find tardigrades in the most ordinary places, too, like moss or lichen found in yards, parks, and forests. All you need to find them is a little patience and a microscope.

Scientists are now to trying to find out whether tardigrades use the tun state, their anti-drying technique, to survive other stresses. If we can understand how they, and other creatures, stabilize their sensitive biological molecules, perhaps we could apply this knowledge to help us stabilize vaccines, or to develop stress-tolerant crops that can cope with Earth’s changing climate. 

And by studying how tardigrades survive prolonged exposure to the vacuum of outer space, scientists can generate clues about the environmental limits of life and how to safeguard astronauts. In the process, tardigrades could even help us answer a critical question: could life survive on planets much less hospitable than our own?

From the TED-Ed Lesson Meet the tardigrade, the toughest animal on Earth - Thomas Boothby

Animation by Boniato Studio


Wet on Dry Techniques by kelogsloops


Watercolor Tutorial
EYES, NOSE, LIPS: You have to make a sketch of it first, then use pen for outlines and make sure that it is waterproof to avoid unexpected errors. Mix colors of your choice. Wet on wet technique is the key to mix it properly. Use white Signo Pen for highlights.

Burnt, brown, red, yellow and orange.
You can use both wet on wet and wet on dry technique. It is depends on your art style.

WET ON WET: Laying one color over another before it gets dry. This technique usually used for galaxy painting.

WET ON DRY: Waiting for the first color to dry completely before laying another color.

GRADIENT: Start off with dark tone and continue on laying your brush until you achieve a fading effects.

DRY BRUSH: Your brush should be slightly wet.

First layer for petal, shape the drops, put shadows and highlights. Use white signo pen for reflection.

More water to the color the lighter it gets

Thank you! I hope this will help you 😍

—The Ultimate Guide to Marijuana Extracts

Been browsing GreenRush menus and getting confused by all the talk about hash, BHO, crumble, tinctures and waxes? In this post we take a detailed look at the different kinds of marijuana extracts currently available on the market and what makes them unique.

So whether you’re already a fan of cannabis concentrates or you’re a newbie looking to find out what all the hype is about, read on to find out all you need to know. And remember, sign up to GreenRush today and get cannabis delivered from the best dispensaries in your area in minutes.

•What are Marijuana Extracts?

The term “marijuana extracts” basically refers to any product that is made by extracting desirable compounds (such as cannabinoids and terpenes) from the cannabis plant and combining them in a concentrated form.

In cannabis, the compounds manufacturers are looking to extract are cannabinoids (such as THC, CBD, CBN, etc) and terpenes (such as pinene, limonene, etc). Cannabinoids are unique compounds that give cannabis its medicinal properties, while terpenes are mainly known for giving cannabis the aromas and tastes that we all treasure, although they also have medicinal properties of their own.

By extracting and concentrating these compounds, manufacturers are all striving towards one common goal; to create a pure product with high concentrations of the chemicals that give cannabis its distinct effects.

The process of extracting and concentrating these compounds, however, isn’t easy. The purity and quality of the end product is governed by countless variables, including everything from the chemical profile of the strain and the particular extraction method being used.

•It’s All About The Trichomes

All marijuana extracts are made by separating the trichomes (those sticky, hair-like crystals on your buds) from the plant matter. These trichomes contain the highest concentration of cannabinoids and terpenes in the cannabis plant, meaning they also harness the plant’s maximum medicinal potential.

Many plants have trichomes, such as The Venus Fly Trap, which uses them to sense prey on the inside of it’s leaves, or the tomato plant, which uses them to sense predators, such as caterpillars.

Scientists hypothesize that the trichomes found on cannabis work similarly, as a defense mechanism.

•Different Forms of Cannabis Extraction

There are a variety of ways to extract cannabinoids and terpenes from the cannabis plant. The various methods are usually categorized by whether or not they use a solvent to separate the trichomes from the plant matter:

-Solventless Extraction Methods:

Different Forms of Cannabis Extraction

There are a variety of ways to extract cannabinoids and terpenes from the cannabis plant. The various methods are usually categorized by whether or not they use a solvent to separate the trichomes from the plant matter:

Solventless Extraction Methods:

Although the term “solventless” technically refers to a concentrate that is made using an extraction method that doesn’t rely on any kind of solvent, the term is generally used by the industry to refer to products that are made without the use of chemical solvents such as butane or alcohol.

The most common solventless extraction methods include:

Dry sifting: Literally sifting cannabis flowers through various sieves to separate the trichomes from the flower. Dry ice is often used to produce kief or hash.
Cold water extraction: Cannabis plant matter is combined with ice and water and then agitated to separate the trichomes from the plant. The mixture is then filtered to remove the water and leave behind a relatively pure concentration of cannabinoids and terpenes. This method is used to produce ice-water hash.
Heat and pressure extraction: Most commonly used to make rosin, this method uses heat and pressure to press cannabis flowers and extract a thick, golden oil that contains high concentrations of cannabinoids and terpenes. This method is used to create rosin.
CO2 extraction: A complex extraction method that works by turning CO2 gas into a supercritical liquid and using that liquid as a solvent to extract the desired compounds from cannabis plant material. This method is used to create CO2 Oil.

•Solvent-based Extraction Methods

Technically, the term “solvent-based extract/extraction” refers to any product which is made using a solvent, in which case any marijuana extracts made using CO2 or water extraction methods would fall under this heading.

However, the cannabis industry generally uses this term to refer to cannabis extracts made using chemical solvents such as butane and ethanol. The most common solvent-based extraction methods include:

Butane extraction: As the name implies, this method uses butane as a solvent to extract the key cannabinoids and terpenes from plant material. This is usually done by packing cannabis plant matter into a container with a small opening and ‘blasting’ or pouring liquid butane over the flower to extract the good stuff from the plant. The resulting mixture is then heated to remove as much of the solvent as possible, resulting in a concentrate that is rich in cannabinoids and terpenes. This method is used to create a type of hash oil known as BHO (Butane Hash/Honey Oil) which is often referred to by names like Shatter, Crumble or Wax, depending on the consistency and appearance of the final product.
Alcohol extraction: This method is similar to butane extraction, but uses alcohol (most commonly isopropyl alcohol or ethanol) as the solvent to extract the key compounds from the plant. Most commonly, plant material is soaked in alcohol for short amounts of time, before the mixture is filtered and occasionally heated in order to remove as much of the solvent as possible. This method is used to create tinctures and hash oil, the latter of which may be sold under a variety of names describing the texture of the oil or the alcohol it was made with.

•Types of Marijuana Extracts

There are a variety of cannabis concentrates currently available on the market. Here’s a simple guide to help you understand the differences between them:

-Kief and Hash

Kief is the oldest form of cannabis extract and is the main ingredient used to make hash. Using a dry sifting technique, frozen flower is sifted through fine mesh screens to separate the trichomes from the plant matter. The end product is a fine powder with a high concentration of cannabinoids and terpenes.

Regular flower, for example, tends to reach a maximum THC concentration of 25-30%, while good quality kief can reach up to 60%.

Kief is often heated and compressed into big blocks, popularly known as hash. The color of the kief or hash will often speak for its purity; a high-quality concentrate is usually golden, while lower quality products will have a greenish tinge, which indicates that it is contaminated with more plant matter.

-Ice Water Hash

Ice water hash is, you guessed it, a type of hash. The term refers to hash that is made using a ice-water extraction method.

Frozen cannabis trimmings are combined with cold water and ice and agitated (either shaken or stirred) in order to separate the brittle trichomes from the plant matter. The mixture is then sifted through various fine sieves and dried to form a granular concentrated that can be pressed or molded by hand.


Rosin is a cannabis concentrate made using a heat and pressure extraction method which can be easily done at home. Cannabis flower is placed inside parchment paper and pressed between two hot sheets of metal (such as the panels of a hair straightener) to release a sticky, golden oil that’s very similar to shatter.

-CO2 Oil

CO2 oil is the end product of CO2 extraction, or supercritical fluid extraction. This method, relying on complex and very expensive equipment allows for one of the purest extractions of cannabis compounds currently available on the market. CO2 oil is a beautiful amber/gold color and is jam-packed full of cannabinoids and terpenes.

The oil is mixed with food grade propylene glycol or glycerin to keep it liquid at room temperature and is most commonly vaporized in vape pens, although it can also be frozen and dabbed using a regular dab rig.

-Hash Oil

Hash oil is arguably the most popular marijuana extract currently on the market and is most commonly made using the butane extraction method we described earlier.

Hash oil is available in various consistencies which are determined by minute factors in how the cannabinoids and terpenes were extracted from the plant.

Here are some of the most common types of hash oil and how they differ from one another:


Shatter refers to hash oil that has a similar texture to glass and commonly shatters when it is dropped or manipulated. It is clear and usually amber or golden in color and can have a potency of up to 80% THC. Due to its transparency, many mistake shatter as being the purest type of cannabis concentrates.

However, shatter simply owes its transparency to the fact that it’s molecules have been left undisturbed and not agitated like the molecules in wax, crumble, or bubble hash.

During the manufacturing process, shatter is purged of butane by heating it (often under a vacuum) until the butane evaporates. Because the product isn’t agitated, it’s molecules are undisturbed, making for a transparent concentrate.

The consistency of hash oil is governed by factors such as the heat it was exposed to during manufacturing, whether it has been decarboxylated, and it’s terpene contents. Here are some different names applied to concentrates like shatter but with different consistencies:

Pull-and-snap: A concentrate similar to shatter but with a more taffy-like consistency which can be pulled, manipulated, and snapped apart, unlike glass-like shatter.
Sap: A runnier, sticky concentrate that resembles tree sap or honey. This stuff usually can’t be manipulated by hand and you’ll need some kind of tool to load it into a dab rig without making a mess.


Cannabis wax has a sticky texture which, much like shatter, can differ in consistency. The most obvious difference between shatter and wax is that wax isn’t transparent. Instead, it can have a creamy white color, similar to honey when it solidifies.

Wax is opaque because, unlike shatter, its molecules have been agitated. While shatter is just heated during the purging process, waxes are usually whipped. The agitation from the whipping is what creates this non-transparent concentrate.

Like shatter, wax is available in a variety of consistencies which are referred to by various names. These include:

Crumble: A concentrate with a slightly granular texture that can be pressed or molded by hand. As it’s name suggests, it has a similar texture to the topping on an apple crumble dessert.
Honeycomb: Honeycomb waxes are usually hard and very brittle, much like the honeycomb centres in some snack bars.
Budder: Budder has a very rich, creamy, and soft texture similar to peanut butter.


Tinctures are marijuana extracts made by soaking cannabis trimmings in alcohol. The finished product is a potent extract which is usually applied in drops and administered orally. According to Leafly, tinctures were the most common form of medical cannabis prior to prohibition in 1937.

WATERCOLOR 101 - tips & technique

I wanted to quickly touch on how you should set up your materials, of course these are suggestions but they really will be helpful.
You may not think that how you set up your water matters, just a plain cup of water, right? Wrong. Try TWO cups of water, one to clean your dirty brushes and another to use to for your mixes. This will ensure that your colors don’t become muddy or you don’t ruin your paints by contaminating them with a dirty brush. And when working on a single piece of paper, try taping it down to your working surface with masking tape or painters tape. This will minimize the warping of the paper while working and it’ll leave you a pretty, clean border. When removing the tape, peel it back on itself to give it less of a chance to damage the paper.

Now into some basic tips okok

Most importantly, practice color theory. When painting, if you’re a beginner, you might have to have a palette that’s just limited to the primary colors, red, yellow, and blue. It’s very helpful to have knowledge of these colors to you can get the mixes that you want. Practice with your paints is honestly how you’ll get better.
Something not many people know is that there are two sets of primaries, warm and cool. Here’s an example of a color wheel for each set (please excuse the pen, my niece got her hands on it)

If you wanted to mix a vibrant purple, you would mix you warm red and blue. When mixing you’re going to start with your lighter colors and add bits of your darker colors until you get the mix you want. But if you mixed a cool red and a warm blue, it wouldn’t turn out like the purple you probably had in mind. Here are some examples of mismatched primary mixes:

But this can be useful if you needed to know how to mix that type of color with your sets of primaries.
Also, to understand the full range of colors you can make if a single set of your primary colors, make a swatch chart like this:

this is a set of cool primaries. and of course color wheels will be your best friends and they’re really fun to paint.

here’s a list of more random tips

- use an H pencil when you sketch out what you’re going to paint, they don’t smear
- if you want a lighter color, don’t add white becaue it will make the color cloudy, just simply add more water
- if you want something to be white in a painting, leave the paper untouched in the spots you want white
- instead of using black, mix your own for a more natural look. it will be mostly blue and then equal parts red and yellow, but just keep adding until it’s a dark grayish brown. I made the “black” in the lighthouse painting below this way

- be patient and work in layers, if you don’t have time to let something dry, blast it with your hairdryer
- if you want the colors you’re painting with to blend, work with them while they’re still wet
- you will have a different outcome different outcome if you wet your paper instead of dry. example:


- SALT!! SaLT!! okay, this is what it looks like:

to do this, just sprinkle a bit of salt over the paint while it is still very wet
- making a soupy mixture of an color and spattering it over with a toothbrush will add a cool texture, do it with white to add stars to a galaxy or with green or red to take your foliage to another level
- Inking your paintings with pens gives a really cool look. But you’ll want to use something with a waterproof ink or it won’t look so cool. Pens like microns or copic multiliners are great.
pen under paint:

pen over paint:

- Metallic watercolor paints can add a lil somethin special to your paintings and there’s some super cheap options out there. here’s some ways I’ve used them:

- white gel pens can be used to add some highlight or detail but you can also use them to give you painting a cool look, like I did with this painting of a crystal

- use a paper towel to create clouds by crumpling it and dabbing it on the wet paint to lift some of it

- negative painting is a technique where you paint in layers and create shapes in each layer to show depth and give an interesting look. but it’s a bit easier to understand if you look at it:

  - and somethings super random but it’s my new favorite thing, use watercolors to color in your adult coloring books!!

and that pretty much wraps it up, i know i’m probably leaving out so much but I hope you enjoyed this and learned something and you can always come to me with more questions!!

Unfortunately, it is time to close my Etsy shop permanently. Life gets in the way and I just can’t keep up with the shop. So, I have some herbs and other things left over for trade/sale.

4 books….Herbal remedies, Jams, Jellies & more, Food drying techniques, Family remedies(natural & herbal)

Harmony Angel deck + guidebook AND the hardback companion book

Different size pieces of bracken moss (shelf moss)

A box of random charms

a few candles

Tiny corked vials (13) and 3 tiny vial necklaces

HERBS - (one baggie of each,  random amounts) white willow bark, chamomile, juniper berries, patchouli, calendula, blue vervain(small amount), rue, honeysuckle, angelica root slices(small amout) angelica root (chopped pieces), valerian root,  Balm of Gilead buds (poplar buds), High John root slices,  a few star anise pods,  chicory root,  blue cohish root (small amount) from Lucky Mojo co.,  Black snake root from lucky mojo co.,  Mojo wishing beans (4 baggies with 21 in each bag)

A  vial of hawthorn thorns, 4 small dirt dauber nests, a vial of tiny shells, a random well weathered mandible, a catfish barb, some random crystals from a crystal candle, a moth (found dead)

SMOKE CLEANSING—  3 small, thin sweet  grass braids, 2 mugwort/lavender bundles, 3 mugwort bundles and a small jar of powdered incense - combination of sweetgrass, white sage, cedar with a pinch of tobacco

Essential oils -  Patchouli, rosewood, calendula, Melissa (lemon balm) Only a very small amount was used from each one (Melissa I don’t think I used)

SKULLS - muskrat, chicken, beaver, river otter. The beaver and river otter are $20 + shipping each

I believe I covered it all!


Luna Moth (s), Swallow tail  butterfly(s), Gypsy moth, spinx moth - well preserved; peacock feathers (the “eye” ones),  coyote rib and leg bones,  SHED antlers,  preserved white tail deer tail,

Rumi Oracle, The Winged Enchantment Oracle, Divination of the Ancients Oracle

Of course everything is for sale if you’d just rather buy any outright. message me and we can work out a price!

I’m also open to other things in trade, just message me!

US only and 18+ Please!


anonymous asked:

You seem really good at watercoloring ;-; I'd give anything to be that good. Anyway, what are your tips on hair? I just can't get it right. It always looks just off and I can't get it to flow right. Do you have any certain techniques or practice methods?

Geez, thank you!! 
For watercolour hair, I approach it in generally two different ways.
Flat: Sometimes I want to create a more ‘abstract’ depiction of hair, often when there is too much going on in the piece and I want to strip it back a little. I create usually one singular layer of watercolour wash, filling in all the hair and giving it a flat, almost abstract quality. It’s best to do this using wet-on-wet techniques to create an even distribution of paint, and allows you to blend quite easily and even add different colours in. The great thing about this technique and step is that you can also incorporate heaps of awesome and funky textured effects, like using salt, creating bleeds and ripples by adding water, and even ‘removing’ paint to create spotted effects.

It should end up looking something like this

You can also combine wet-on-dry, to create more bold colours and finer details like strands of hair. Once the layer is dry, I tend to go over the layer with either white ink, graphite, or fine thin strokes of watercolour to create some detailing for ‘strands’ of hair, so the hair isn’t too flat.

Layered: Layered is when I want to create hair that is more realistic, with depth and often with the purpose of creating fine detailing. This process is more time consuming and requires drying time. I start off with the same approach as ‘flat’ method, but using very light, washed out/transparent watercolor. Once the layer is dry, I go over with subsequent layers, progressively creating darker layers and depth in the detail of the hair. As you add more layers, you begin to darken the paint and dilute it less with water, often applying more wet-on-dry techniques. In these subsequent darker layers of detailing, it’s best to use fine strokes only to create the fine detailing and strands of hair. 

I hope that helps/makes sense! I promise I’ll make a proper tutorial video on this in the near future :-)

Strawberry Cheese cake Mini Watercolour Tutorial

Recently I did a study in Watercolour and I decided to document the steps for future reference and share with you guys :) 

nom nom nom

Part 0: Colours!

[1] I used this to outline of the cake it is opaque and easily lifted 

[2] I made 2 shades of red[2]&[8] for the darker one [2]&[4] for the lighter one. 

[3] A light staining green I add [2]&[4] to it to make it muddy for the base of the cake

[4] A staining yellow 

[5] A light blue I used for the shadows of the icing

[6] I used this with [5] to paint the background

[7] A nice grey colour I used to add the darker parts of the base

[8] I use this to supplement the red 

To the right is the small round brush I used for the whole painting. The painting is about the size of my palm if this wasn’t a study I would have painted it bigger. 

I also used a white sakura gelly roll for the highlights 

Step 1: Find a photo reference

Choose one with good lighting. I like to choose pictures that are high-key since the whites are already established and I like painting shiny things. 

Step 2: Do the outline

I personally dislike doing outlines in pencil because if I sketch too lightly I own’t be able to see it but if I do it too hard it will show through. Instead I use watercolour paint. The goal is to pick a non staining watercolour paint that is easy to remove from the paper once you put it down. It should “erase” flawlessly with a little bit of water and lifting. I noticed that my ocher colour is exactly like that so I used that to do the outline of the cake. If you can’t find a paint like that use a really watered down version of a colour that is present in the painting. 

Step 3: Mask the extreme light areas

It would be hard to paint around extremely shiny areas with such a dark red around it so I use liquid latex/masking fluid on those parts only. This way you can paint as dark as you like. Wait until the masking fluid is completely dry before painting. 

 Step 4: Paint the side

I find the best way to paint the side is to wet the paper a little bit and lightly glaze the areas with some red, this way you keep it light and once that dries you can build up the intensity. 

If you find the paint too dark simply lift it with a paint brush. I used this technique to get some nice gradient areas. 

For the bottom I used the dry brush technique to create little gaps. 

Step 5: Paint the Icing 

The icing of the cake is annoying to do only because I painted really small the whole painting is about the size of my hand orz. It would be a lot better the painting was bigger but since this is a study I didn’t really mind :) 

Notice what I said about the ochre being very easy to take off? Look on the right edge of the cake I had no problem lifting the paint off of the page. 

Step 6: Rub off the masking fluid

After the paint drys COMPLETELY I removed the masking fluid from the paper by rubbing it with my fingers. If the masked area in your painting is really big feel free to use a eraser to help you so that your fingers are not numb from all that rubbing :P. 

Step 7: Paint in the high lights and background

Some highlights are not as bright as others so I painted them in to make it less extreme. For background I just used blue since it goes well with red and a background in this case is very much needed since the icing is mostly white the edge will be one with the paper if you don’t define it. 

Step 8: Gel pen the highlights

After I paint the highlights I use a gel pen to go over the high light. 

AND WE ARE ALL DONE! Thank you for taking the time to read this tutorial! I apologize for the shitty photo and editing. I just got a new computer so I haven’t installed PS yet :I 

*If you liked this tutorial and would like to see more walkthroughs/tuts please tell me (or simply reblog/like) I would love to hear your feedback!*

Luis’ (aka muji-milk) Art Tips!

i often get asked for tips on watercolour painting and portraiture drawing and things so i decided to make one pretty extensive advice post :^) hope this helps, and it will be tagged ‘art tips’ if you need to find it again. you can ask me if there’s something else you don’t find on here/to elaborate on something if you need!

Keep reading

laexploradoraaa  asked:

How long does it take you to paint your nails, I assume you're rather quick considering how often you must paint them. But also, do you have any drying techniques?

Honestly it depends on the polish and the mani (how many layers, etc.). I am a lot faster than I used to be but then again I do my nails 2-5 times a week, so. Glitters and holos tend to be fast and magnetics are fast and a 2 coat mani plus quickdry topcoat can be done in under a half hour, maybe 25 min. If it has more texture (and I hate texture) I’ll throw a coat of Nerdlaquer’s Glassy AF in before the Seche Vite quickdry. Shimmers vary radically in dry time as do cremes, and humidity can affect that, so I give a bit more time between coats for them and am usually a bit more careful in terms of thinner coats. 

I don’t have any great method for drying-i use a quickdry topcoat-Seche Vite, bc I can buy it in bulk cheaper than some other brands- and again, thinner coats are better. Use it when your polish is still tacky to the touch or you invite tip shrinkage.After using it, your polish should be dry to touch in 2-3 min. don’t bang them hard or wash dishes immediately or anything but most things you should be able to do without much trouble. within 15min you should have pretty cured nails. 

🎨 Top 7 sorority canvas & craft letter tracing techniques!  🎨

Q: What are some tips for painting canvases? Every time I try the letters turn out bad, or it looks sloppy… Any ideas?

A: You must TRACE the lettering instead of trying to freehand it. Letters can make a perfectly painted canvas look messy if they are not traced neatly. That’s the problem you are running into. There are several different tracing techniques that can be used on canvases, coolers and other crafted gifts.

✰ Using attractive fonts from your computer is the first step. If you don’t already have fonts you like, use a source like this:


✰ First paint your decorative canvas with the pattern or solid color you desire. Lettering will be the finishing touch on top of your painted design. To get the letter size you need, you may need to print several pieces of paper from your computer, or even one letter per page for large canvases. Use a ruler to space your letters evenly if needed. 

🎨   TOP 7 Ways to Paint Sorority Quotes & Letters on Canvas:  🎨

✰ Chocopaper/Carbon Paper Tracing Technique: 

  • From your computer ~ print your font on paper in the correct size for your canvas. This may take more than one sheet of paper, depending on the font size.
  • Gently tape the font paper to the painted canvas with painter’s tape. 
  • Slip a piece of Chocopaper/carbon paper between the font paper and the canvas.  
  • Place a book under your canvas to keep the surface firm and to keep it from stretching. 
  • Trace the letters with a ball point pen. 
  • Remove the font paper and the transfer paper and there will be a light outline of your lettering left on the canvas. Fill in with acrylic paints. 

✰ Tissue/Tracing Paper Technique:

  • From your computer ~ print your font on paper in the correct size for your canvas.
  • Place issue paper, or other translucent paper, over the font print-out and trace the letters with a pencil.
  • Place the tissue paper on the painted canvas and secure it with a few pieces of painter’s tape. Trace the letters with a fine to medium point Sharpie (not a thick Sharpie). The ink will bleed through and create the lines. 
  • Once the outline is traced, remove the tissue and paint the lettering in your desired colors. 

✰ Acrylic Letter Technique: 

  • Purchase removable acrylic letters at the craft store. 
  • Place onto the painted canvas and trace around the edges of each letter. 
  • Peel off the acrylic letters and paint within the traced lines.

✰ DIY a Stencil Technique:  

  • Most stenciled letters look like stencils. But you can make a more attractive stencil from your favorite computer font. 
  • From your computer ~ print your font on paper in the correct size for your canvas. A bolder, straight-edged style works best. 
  • Cut out the letters, creating your own stencil. 
  • Lightly tape the stencil over your painted canvas and trace the inside of the letters.
  • Peel off the stencil and paint within the lettering lines. 

✰ Chalk Technique: 

  • From your computer ~ print your font on paper in the correct size for your canvas.
  • Cover the back of your paper with white chalk by rubbing the side of a piece of chalk over the surface. 
  • Turn the paper over to the printed font side and lightly tape it to your painted canvas. 
  • Place a book under the canvas to keep it firm. 
  • With a ballpoint pen trace over the words. 
  • Remove the paper and there should be a chalk outline of your wording. Fill in the letters with paint. 

✰ Pencil Technique: 

  • From your computer ~ print your font on paper in the correct size for your canvas.
  • Turn the paper over and cover the back of each letter with pencil marks. 
  • Lay the paper font side up/pencil side down onto the painted canvas. But a book behind the canvas center to avoid stretching. 
  • Trace the font lettering with a ballpoint pen. The backside pencil lead will leave a tracing on your canvas. 
  • Remove the paper and fill in your letters with acrylic paint. 
  • If there are any stray pencil lead smudges, you can remove them with a baby wipe once all the paint is dry. 

✰ Mod Podge Technique: 

  • From your computer ~ print your font on paper in the correct size for your canvas. 
  • Precisely cut out your letters and Mod Podge them on to your painted canvas. 
  • Once dry, paint over your lettering with acrylic paints. The paper letters stay in place and serve as your template. 
  • This technique is best when using bolder, straight-edged letters that are easier to cut out. If using a curly script font, cut carefully with an x-acto knife. 
  • Mod Podging and painting over letters, images, or logos is also a favorite technique for cooler painting. 
  • Variation: cut out letters in decorative paper and Mod Podge them onto your painted canvas for a collage look. You don’t need to paint over these letters. 

✰ “NEAT” canvas lettering inspiration: 


Red Nails with Gold Accent.

Today I am featuring this stunning polish by OPI named A Woman’s Prague-ative. In this polish, copper and gold flecks are suspended in a sheer orangey-red base. Better used as a topper, this polish will bring interest to any warm tone polish. Using the dry-brush technique, I applied two coats at the base of my nails which were painted red. Wow! Just perfect for Fall or the Holidays. Love you all, talk to you soon.

Cardboard Props (Astrid’s Axe)~ Tutorial Tuesday!

Hey everybody! Welcome to this new series I’m starting. I’ve been getting a lot of questions about how I make various parts of my cosplays and puppets and I figured it was about time I shared my techniques with you guys!

So to start it off, I’ll be showing you how I make most of my props. It’s cheap, simple, and lightweight.

Keep reading

Thing I am 100% here for:

The technological disparity between Tatooine’s slave quarters and Coruscant. Because that had to be a hell of a culture shock. Tatooine is low-tech, repair-it-till-it-breaks-for-good, use what’s available, do-it-yourself practical. Coruscant is fashion and shine, use-and-discard, cutting-edge, mass-produced, automated electronic heaven.

Anakin, almost certainly, has a skill set that’s very rare on Coruscant. There was a single datapad/computer in a permanent mount in a small alcove set up like an office in Anakin’s home, some large, indistinguishable electronics and artificial lighting. That’s it, on the technological front. Depending on how far you want to take it, you could argue that Anakin might have only had sporadic access to indoor plumbing. He almost certainly knows about water-minimal preservation techniques like drying, pickling and smoking, (the place he and Shmi were living had some kind of dried or drying produce hanging from the ceilings) and at least a little about building and repairing the adobe/cob buildings like the one he lived in.

Anakin probably knows the basics of sewing, because thread is cheaper than fabric, and a little fabric cheaper than an entirely new garment. Speaking of expensive things, plastic. Plastic is expensive, and complicated to make - if you have access to any sort of plant material, paper is much easier to make. It’s very unlikely Anakin had easy access to flimplast as opposed to crude paper. Even less likely that he had regular access or reason to use datapads - he’d know how to write, but he might not be much good at typing.

Other fun things to consider: Anakin, immediately post TPM, rarely remembering the temple has lifts, and not being able to figure out which doors lead to them in any case. Anakin’s conception of medicine being dried herbs in paper packets and crude surgeries that help only slightly more often than they kill. Anakin eating things his peers call ‘completely unsafe to eat’ and him just staring at them, because it’s only been left out a measly two days.


  Welcome back, to a new subject on my tutorials. Today is going to be about PAPER.

  As many of you might know, exist different types and brands of paper to try your hands when working traditional. Now, I hadn’t try all of them, but I had my experience with some, so here I talk about the ones that work best for me so far, if I ever find new ones, I’ll make a new entry about them. :)

  As you can see, I use different kinds and sizes of paper, brands included :D Now, to start with them all:

  1. FABRIANO SKETCH: I use two sizes for this, the A4 one that I keep at home for big projects that may include lots of characters, and the A5 size, that I carry with me everywhere on my backpack. It’s paper is 90 gm/m2, and it has a hard back as surface support, the quality of these blocks is amazing for sketching, you can use pencils, colored pencils, and markers to make linearts, it resist markers too, but I don’t recommend it. I use them to make all my sketches that I scan and color with computer, as you can see on the example, it can resist lots of erasing and point pressure from the pencil, don’t abuse anyway ;D
  2. FABRIANO DISEGNO ACCADEMIA: As well as the Sketch version, these too possess high quality paper, it too has a hard back as surface support , and I use them too in A4 size, that stays on my house, and the A5 version, that I take with me everywhere :) These blocks are awesome to work with dry AND wet techniques: colored pencils, pencil, pastels, watercolors, watercolor pencils, and even markers! Now, as a little note here, I added a picture of a page where I worked a picture with watercolors pencils, and the little Pinkie Pie was done with markers, the next page is a Flutterpie picture, done with markers as well: the Flutterpie picture was done before the little Pinkie, so, I prove my point of the quality of this paper, even if the bleeding of the markers went all the way to show on the back of the paper, it did nothing to the next page, so you can work safe. :)
  3. GENERIC SKETCHPAD: Now, when I mean generic, it’s because they have no real brand, my mom got me one of those for one of my birthdays, and I just loved the paper it has, so she got me lots of them (I still have some), the pad came with no specifications, but it had four free tiny colors. The paper is a good grammage, enough to use pencils, and colored pencils, I never used them with liners or any wet technique, but I use them now to draw all my R18 stuff, so I keep track of WHERE I keep those pictures. As you can see, the covers are a really nice drawing surface as well XD 1,2 &3A: A little note, these three kinds of notebooks have the extra quality that I can make them stand still, so if I need to let them get dry, I just place them like that, as personal note, I love to place them on my nightstand, so I can see the pictures on them whenever I want :D
  4. POCKET THIN PAPER SKETCHBOOK: This notebook is generic as well, again, thanks mom! I use this pocket notebook to make random doodles and sketches. It’s quite the ret to try to fit lots of stuff, or a full composition is such a tiny space :) Just to challenge myself, I added numbers to each page, so I use the paper for both sides, and I keep the picture, however it came out.
  5. POCKET AGENDA TRANSFORMED TO SKETCHBOOK: Yes, there’s a lot of professional paper to draw, and I decided to transform a planer I had around into a pocket sketchbook XD I got that agenda on a birthday ages ago, and never used it, so one day I found it, and decided to take the original stuff out, used the planning pages to make some new white pages with bond paper, and added a mechanical pencil, so now I take it with me everywhere for doodles, and it is a good way to recycle stuff :)
  6. SINGLE SHEETS: Here, I use different kinds: regular paper, that I use just to practices, doodles, and sketches that sometimes I scan to coor; watercolor paper, that I use for watercolor, ink, and some dry techniques sometimes; opaline paper, that I use in two different grammages for colored pencils, and markers. Sometimes the single sheets come in a huge size that I cut at home on the size I want .
  7. CANVAS AND WOOD PLANKS: These last two are very useful for acrylics and oils, in case you choose the wood plank, you need to prepare it with gesso first. I also use the wood plank to mount watercolor paper and work on it :) 

  That covers it all that I know about paper, I talk more on my experience on it rather than technicisms, so I hope this helps you a little. Like I mentioned before, these are the kind of art supplies I use to work, so is not a rule to follow that you get them all.

  Simple rules about paper:

  • Always use watercolor paper to watercolor techniques, or else it may get wrinkled and ruin your piece. Trust me, I tried to use watercolors on sketchbook once, not only the surface won’t allow the water to flow properly, but it wrinkles a lot.
  • If you’re starting with learning how to sketch, use regular bond paper, or one of those white notebooks they sell on supermarkets on school season. I use those for practices, and to make the thumbnails for my comic pages :)
  • Never use huge pressure when drawing, try to do it softly so if you need to erase it will be easier, it won’t leave marks. And also try to not erase a lot, or you may rip your paper.
  • The brands you see here are the cheapest ones on my country, but not as cheap as to compromise my work, like I mentioned, the FABRIANO brand is from Italy, and it offers a high quality, without the pricey junk just because of the brand. Even this brand have some other products that are higher on price, and is exactly the same, so I wen’t for the lower price. Dear honest, you don’t need to exchange an eye, just for a sketchbook that will work the same as one with half the price, but the same quality, sometimes even better quality.

  Well, it’s all by today, next time:  GOING DEEPER INTO MATERIALS. PART TWO: COLORING TOOLS

See you around next time!

Making a custom Kaidan Alenko Pop! Vinyl (Or a Custom Shepard!)

Here is the process I went through to make my own Kaidan Alenko Pop! Vinyl. Feel free to use this to make your own - I really encourage you to give it a go because it was lots of fun! :) You can use the same process to make a Shepard too - you just need to choose a different head (remember that the hair cannot go past the shoulders) and paint the armour however you choose!

You will need:

- paintbrushes (one fine tip brush for detailing & other sized for applying paint. You need GOOD paintbrushes. A cheap alternative is to buy a set of makeup brushes - it’s what I use! My exception if the fine tip brush that I use for detailing. I always use a model making paintbrush.)
- Commander Shepard pop! vinyl
- Another pop! vinyl that has a ‘Kaidan-like’ head (I use Castiel)
- Good quality acrylic paints
- Craft glue
- Boiling water & container to hold vinyls
- matte finishing/varnish spray
- Qtips
- Nail Polish Remover (with acetone)


1. I start off with two base pop! vinyls - a Commander Shepard (for Kaidan’s body) and a Supernatural Cas ‘Steve’ pop vinyl for the head.

2. I boiled both pop! vinyls and separated the heads from the bodies. I put these guys into a tall skinny container and poured boiling water on them, and kept them submerged for around 2 minutes. While it was still hot I was easily able to separate the head from the bodies. (I also took off the arm with the omni-tool, but you don’t have to!).

3. I planned out the colours for Kaidan’s armour and then started painting. I did his black under armour first. And then did his blue metallic armour. I selected some panels to paint with a lighter blue metallic paint (his knee guards, buckle and spine guard & lights). All paint was applied using a dry brushing technique and was applied in 4-5 thin coats. I waited for each coat to dry before I applied the next coat and it took most of a day.
Please note that I used a very good quality acrylic paint for his armour and a medium priced one for his under armour. You can do this with cheaper acrylics too but it may take more thin coats to get perfect.

4. I painted on Kaidan’s white stripes freehand as I was out of painters tape. I did the white lines (2 coats of a good acrylic) and then touched up the blue around it to straighten the lines. This took a long tine and I worked in small sections to get the lines perfectly straight. I applied the lines to his legs, arms and chest.

5. I then drew on Kaidan’s eyebrows in led pencil, and then painted them on using a good quality acrylic in 4 coats.

6. I used a Q-tip with nail polish remover to straighten his eyebrows - please note that the polish remover *will* melt the vinyl - so use it sparingly and only in one direction. Work fast and do not press too hard or you’ll grind your paint into the vinyl.

7. I sealed my paint job with a spray on matte varnish

8. I attached the head to the body - the head I chose was not a perfect fit and I had to use scissors to cut the inner vinyl seal a little bit to get it on. I also had to warm up the head using boiling water so the vinyl would stretch. I used a small amount of craft glue - but not much.

And ta da! I was done!

The same process can be used to create a femShep, except I usually plan a femShep out on the computer first so I can design her armour:

Have fun! I’d love to see pictures of any Sheps you make! :)

  • Remus doesn’t know if it’s a good idea. He’s never been good at living with someone else, his several attempts at finding a roommate during college ended up in pain and that time he was bunking on Alice’s couch for three months wasn’t better. He just generally doesn’t like sharing his space.
  • It’s different now. He’s been going out with Sirius for almost two years. Sirius has to move out of James and Lily’s flat because they plan to have a baby and Remus knows every one of their friends expects him to move in with Remus. Hell, Remus himself expects Sirius to move in, he loves him and wants it to work out. But he’s not sure.
  • There’s something very weird in living with your boyfriend. Awkward. How are you supposed to be romantic or stuff when you live together?
  • “Do you want to come by tonight? I have that cake you like.” 
  • “Yeah, I know. I’m the one who made it.”
  • Or
  • “Love, I had such an awful morning.”
  • “No wonder you put salt in my coffee.”
  • See? Awkward. Not that Remus knows it from experience. He never dated anyone long enough to live together, which is why it’s twice as scary.
  • When Sirius does move in, Remus expects like two cars of clothes or so. He doesn’t expect two lonely bags and shopping all day because “Moony, new place means new clothes!”. He doesn’t expect to quite enjoy it. 
  • Actually, Sirius is not hard to live with. He’s tidy even while painting and… Wait, is it a paint stain on Remus’s book? Never mind.
  • Yes, he isn’t tidy at all while painting, but Remus, to his own great surprise, doesn’t find himself annoyed at it. He grows to appreciate red and black smears on his “The Picture of Dorian Gray” copy.
  • It isn’t completely easy at first though. He and Sirius have a real fight over drying mugs techniques and Remus can’t find any of his socks because Sirius puts them all in one place and while it makes perfect sense it doesn’t make any sense for Remus. He doesn’t appreciate finding brushes in the sink and Sirius doesn’t like his concept of enough food to live for a week (which it tons of chocolate and cheese and the closest snacks he can reach). Remus likes to read before sleep and Sirius can’t fall asleep with the light on. Remus doesn’t like being woken up in the middle of the night to check if he turned off the iron. Oh, and never ending hair products deal.
  • “Why did you take my hairbrush again? Yours is right next to it.”
  • “I’ve got my own hairbrush?”
  • Lily and James laugh at them when they come by, saying that they just need time to get used to it. 
  • Sirius gives Remus a smile at that and goes back to making pancakes for some kind of brunch, humming along the radio and arguing with James over football. Lily looks at Remus knowingly and Remus asks her if they already thought about the baby’s name. If James and Lily are right, that time is totally worth it. Will be worth it as long as he gets to see Sirius smiling in his kitchen.