dremel tools

On Summoning Demons

Strap in mammals, I need to correct some stupidities about “summoning” major demons. I’ll lay out a proper procedure in a few easy steps. This isn’t for minor infernals, but so-called “princes of Hell”, as it were. I’ll focus on the Goetic demons.

Step One: Acquire a copy of Ars Goetia (you can get a free PDF online)

Step Two: Record names, sigils, and descriptions of any you want to contact.

Step Three: Throw the rest of Ars Goetia in the garbage and tell it that it’s a very rude poorly behaved book.

Step Four: Inscribe a sigil on whatever you have available. If you happen to have an unused gold tablet laying around I’m sure they’d be flattered, so by all means pull out the dremel tool and get to work. If you’re like the rest of us, pen and paper is fine. If you want to get really fancy, use a consecrated pen or special ink.

Step Five: Cast a circle and so on in whatever fashion suits your tradition. It’s not to protect you from the demon, it’s to screen out discordant energy and interference.

Step Six: Respectfully request their presence and begin conversing. Treat them as one part deity and two parts royalty. Please and thank you. Yes sir/ma’am. Etcetera, etcetera, etcetera. In fact don’t even think of it as summoning. That word implies compulsion. You are asking, not telling.

The Goetic demons are GODS. Several of them can be traced to their origins. Asteroth is the Egyptian Astarte. The idea that you can force them to do your bidding, or that you can protect yourself from them, is a joke.

The Goetic concept that they are bound to specific sigils and commands is based on a pact made by King Solomon for a fixed period of time, which has expired. It’s useless now, even if it ever was genuine. They help those who they find worthy, and no one else.

If you are respectful, and they find you worthy, they may choose to help you. If you are unworthy, some of them might just decide to fuck with you. Which would fall under the category of not my problem, so follow my advice at your own risk. Each demon has their own standards and personality. It’s almost like they’re real people (heavy sarcasm). If you want to work with them, treat them as such. If you give a major demon an order, I have zero sympathy for what they may do to you.

I am not recommending that anyone evoke demons. For humans it’s really generally not a good idea unless they take an interest in you first. You don’t have claws and scales. But if you’re going to do it anyway, try not to make an ass of yourself. Entrails are a bitch to clean out of carpet.

Carry on, and good luck, humans.


anonymous asked:

your Voltron cosplays bring me so much joy 😩 can I ask about your bayard though?? like where did it come from?? it's the most accurate to the that I've seen, it's so great!!

Thank you and yeah, I definitely can write up a quick post! I built mine and a friend’s super fast in like 4 days and then just never wrote about how I did them, so I can do that now! They’re a bit messy because of how fast I had to built them - the edges are kinda rough and the paint is kinda janky - but what I do really, really like about them is the shape. 

I started by sketching out a paper template that fit my hand. I don’t have pictures of doing that, but I basically just measured my hand, pulled up 10 references pictures from the show, and then sketched out bayards on construction paper until I found a shape that I liked. 

I then transferred that template onto EVA foam and cut it out. EVA foam is the entire base of the bayard - basically the entirety of the black part on the final bayard. I used an inner core of 4mm foam sandwiched between two layers of 10mm foam and held together with contact cement. The bayard on the left in the picture is this stage: 

After I had that base shape, I dremeled the edges down to get the bayard’s proper shape - basically you spend a couple hours with a hand held dremel tool with a sanding bit and bevel the edges and round them off. That’s the bayard on the right in the pic. 

The next part is the white and colored details of the bayards. I sketched out templates for those on paper, cut them out of 2mm craft foam, fit them around the base bayard, and then attached them with contact cement. 

I then primed them with 2 layers of Mod Podge and a layer of Plasti Dip. Then I painted them with a 2 layers of black spray paint all over and hand painted the white and colored parts with acrylic paint. My bayard was specifically for a Sailor Scout version of Lance so it has blue glitter over top of the blue paint in this picture, but you’d just skip the glitter if you’re making a regular Paladin bayard. 

The paint is kinda janky close up, but it photographs really well at a normal distance so I really love it and it’s one of my favorite props! 

OK.. This is my first (coolkenack) attempt at making a drinking horn. I have made mistakes in doing so but this is how we learn. I got this horn raw from a supplier and cleaned out all the gook inside of it. I failed to sand the outside before starting to carve the design on it. My Dremel tool wanted to go all over the place with caving the image. Practice practice practice..right! OK here is a question for all you experiences horn makers….How do I seal the inside? I heard that some use bees wax (Is it a problem in warm weather) or resin. Which is the best? or do I just leave it natural. I have bleached it out several times and soaked in hot water but you always wonder if you get all the bacteria out. Is there a resin safe to use on the inside and safe to drink from? Any help out there?

When I thought I died

by Saṃsāran 

My eyes are closed but I hear everything. If this is a coma then why am I aware? I hear doctors whispering. I hear the noise of the machines in the ICU. I hear my wife sobbing. 

This all so very strange.

I know I had surgery. Brain surgery. They shaved my head and opened my skull with an electric saw which looked like a Dremel tool that a carpenter might use. I was supposed to be asleep then too. I remember them wheeling me in here. My head bandaged in gauze. The nurse was a middle aged Filipina. Her name was Angelina. Little angel. I know who she really was. She looked at me with the mother’s eyes.

I think I may be dying.

I flicker in and out now.  Not into nothingness though. I am in a strange state of consciousness where I am self-aware but not as I am normally. It is more like being aware during a dream. Dying held no fear for me. Seriously. None at all. It seemed so unimportant. I start to fade … fade into blackness.

A warning buzzer sounds as I drift back into the softest cloud. No fear. 

PART TWO HAS THE SAME WARNINGS AS PART ONE

SO MANY POTENTIAL TRIGGERS IN HERE AND SOME NOT SO NICE THINGS! TORTURE, MENTIONS OF MANY TYPES OF ABUSE, ALCOHOL, DRUGS, MURDER, PANIC ATTACKS, LOTS OF CRYING, MENTIONS OF PROSTITUTION, SEIZURES,  SO MUCH SAD AND BAD SO PLEASE DO NOT READ THIS IF ANY OF THOSE THINGS BOTHER YOU BC BUDDY, THIS IS BAD.

You still had cuffs on your wrists and a paramedic was using a dremel tool to saw them off, shaking his head the whole time and sighing when they were finally off, observing the black bruises left on your skin. “I’m going to get the bus ready and we’ll head to the hospital, alright?” he was talking more to Spencer but both of you nodded.

“Y/N,” Spencer Reid spoke to you softly. “Y/N, I need to ask you a couple questions.” he told you but they were in the process of rolling Logan out of the ground on a gernie and you couldn’t focus. Spencer’s hand fell on top of yours as he looked at you . 

“Is he dead?” you asked. Spencer’s head fell and he licked his lips before he looked back up at you with honey colored eyes that reminded you of Logan’s in a way. 

“Y/N, he lost a lot of blood…” he knew what you were thinking but Spencer’s rescue had given you hope. Logan was in a different ambulance than you and he was being raced away, leaving, disappearing into the evergreens. The paramedics were taking their time closing Spencer and you up in the back of your ambulance. Spencer sat beside you and you hadn’t realized until half way to the hospital how hard you were squeezing his hand. 

“I’m sorry…” you pulled your hand away. “I-I…” the situation was beginning to become too surreal. Your vision started to blur as your skin felt like it was burning off your bones but you were shivering, freezing. 

“Y/N?” Spencer grabbed your shoulder and pulled you up, keeping you from falling into the floor. 

“I think she’s going into shock.” the paramedic reported and told the driver to step on it. You hyper-focused on Spencer’s eyes and realized that they weren’t like Logan’s at all. Logan’s eyes were dark and mischievous, full of lust and unpredictability. Spencer’s eyes… Spencer’s eyes were safe and warm, they were inviting you into him, you could teach yourself to trust those eyes, those honey brown eyes. 

“Y/N, you need to breathe.” 

“Lay down.” the paramedic ordered and Spencer lowered you back on the gernie you’d been sitting on. The medic slipped a mask over your face and Spencer started to step back but you reached out for him again and he didn’t hesitate to take your hand. He knew what was happening. You hadn’t let go of him since the medic had sawed the cuffs off your wrists. Transference was occurring and the only reason you wanted him holding your hand was because he was the one to free you. You couldn’t actually like him… Or… could you? Even in your current state, he though you were beautiful. He admired how much you care about your best friend, not even worrying about yourself. And he knew you were smart, he’d done his homework on you. You were abnormally intelligent. You were a good person and Spencer’s heart broke to think that you’d live with what had happened over the past few nights for the rest of your life. 

Spencer was pulled out of his daze when your body started shaking violently on the gernie and your eyes rolled back. Without having to be told, Spencer held your arms down while the medic gave you a shot to calm your muscles and your rapid movements slowed until you were still. 

Spencer tucked some hair behind his ear that had fallen when he jerked himself up to help you but he sat back down. He looked at your hand for a moment before he made a dome over it with his own. 

When you got to the hospital, you were wheeled to a room of your own where you could stay. A nurse stitched a gash on your head while you lay unconscious in your bed and Spencer sat beside you. There was a doctor in after the nurse, who looked like he was too tired to care about what happened to you. 

Hotch arrived at the hospital shortly after you and Spencer. You’d been hooked into an IV and given something to help you sleep so Spencer slipped into the hall to walk with his boss. 

“The man that was with her didn’t make it..” Hotch told Spencer, guiding him down the hall. 

“Did you get him?” he asked, his heart dropping when Hotch didn’t answer for a minute. 

“He got away in the river.” the raven haired man answered. “How is Y/N?” 

“Really tired.” Spencer said. “I don’t think Charles fed Y/N  or Logan the whole time he was keeping them there, he drugged and beat both of them but Y/N doen’t seem to realize how long he really held them there.” 

“What do you mean?” 

“In the ambulance, Y/N was exhibiting signs of severe shock and amnesia and asked me if Logan was okay even though he’d been dead for days.” 

“You need to stay with in the room with Y/N. Morgan is going to be there too in case Charles comes-” a quiet alarm sounded from your room that sounded like flat line and Hotch and Spencer were the first to get to you. 

When they opened your door, they saw you trying to stand and Spencer and Hotch rushed to you, knowing that you wouldn’t be able to stand on all the medication you’d been given. Both thought they were too late but to their surprise,you stood, holding onto your IV stand. 

“Lo-Lo…” you nearly vomited before you regain a whisper of composure. “I need to see him, Spencer…” you breathed. “I have to find him. 

“Y/N…” he shook his head, his eyes becoming so sad and you knew. 

“No…” you stumbled backwards. “No…” 

“I’m sorry, Y/N.” 

You moaned loudly, a deep, mournful howl in the back of your throat and you didn’t care about standing up anymore. Both men grabbed one of your arms to prevent you from falling onto the tile floor. Nurses were gathering at the door, watching the scene unfold like they had nothing better to do.  

“Give her something for the pain, please.” Hotch said, annoyed with the crowd. 

One small woman slipped inside and got into the small cabinet with her key to find something to hook into you to make you fall asleep. Hotch left the room when the nurse did but Spencer stayed. 

“He can’t be gone…” you whined hoarsely, the medication instantly making you sleepy. “He was all I had.” 

“That can’t be true.” 

“It is… I work at a cafe, Spencer. I have a Master’s degree in Psychology and I work at a cafe… I live in a tiny apartment and the only reason I had to live is gone. He’s gone.” 

“What about your family?” Spencer was beginning to become hoarse himself, holding back tears. 

“He was my family.” you coughed. “I wish he’d killed me…” you whispered before you fell into a deep sleep. 


PART THREE COMING SOON

I recently decided to pick up an old project I put on hold years ago - finishing a set of deer antler runes.  They’re already cut into chips, but I didn’t know what I was doing back then so there are a bunch of ugly cut lines on them from the dremel tool I used.  There’s probably easier ways to do it, but I’m being stubborn and sanding them down by hand.

I’m currently only 5/24 done with the rough sanding process.  Then comes fine sanding, carving the runes, and possibly going over them with some kind of paint or ink.  Gonna be a looong process, but it feels worth it to go through.

2

“Never one….”
“Without the other.”
Recently I got back into playing League after taking a break due to my busy work schedule and I got to try out Kindred for the first time. I really love their design, how they play and I adore their voices ;A;. Here I already made the masks for both Lamb & Wolf parts :)  I’m planning on making the Lamb costume to wear and I wanted to try make the wolf as a puppet possibly and add some cool effects, I’ve never made anything like this before so it’ll be an interesting learning experience! This is something I have no set date for, so another project I’ll be working on between commissions and other stuff x3
Masks are made from EVA foam, then cut and shaped with a heat gun and sanded and carved with a dremel tool ~

Mindfang Sword Tutorial (as best as I can)

Hello ladies and gents! Today I will show you how to construct a light up mindfang sword!!! yyyyyaaaaaaaaayyyyyyy. I know there was this tutorial but it’s…horribly complicated….. SO. Here is an easy way to do it. It lights up, is durable, and looks GR8. as you can see in these pictures of me and my cosplay. SO. Let us beign!

Materials: 

  • 3 sheets of 2ft x 3ft 1/8th in thick plexiglass
  • one 4 ½ inches around,  PVC pipe
  • pvc pipe cap to fit the pipe
  • Air Dry Modeling clay
  • dremel tool
  • sandpaper
  • blue acrylic paint
  • blue spray paint to match blue acrylic paint or vice versa
  • scotch painting tape (to tape off sections not wanting to be painted so that you don’t get paint on parts you don’t want to.
  • LED AA Maglite
  • hard posterboard
  • C clamps
  • epoxy/silicone/superglue (not exactly recommended)
  • patience
  • time
  • $$$$

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE SCRATCH SAFETY FILM ON THE PLEXIGLASS.

First, you’re going to want to use your posterboard and draw out the shape of the sword and cut it out. What I did was use my dad’s huge printer, blew up a pic of the sword, pasted it to the posterboard after cutting it out, and cut it out after pasting.to get exact dimensions, but you can also eye it too, doesn’t really matter. You’re also going to want to add a little “tail” to it that will keep it sturdy later. It’ll be something like this:

Next, use ONE sheet of your plexiglass and trace the sword’s shape onto it with a sharpie.and trace it onto one peice of plexiglass. Clamp those together with 2-3 clamps in whatever size. 

Then, you take out your handy dandy dremel tool and attach the small saw thingie onto it and position it comfortably and start cutting along your tracing of the sword. MAKE SURE YOU WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES, AND DO NOT BREATHE THE PLASTIC STUFF THAT FLIES EVERYWHERE. Make sure you put the clamps on the three peices. After you cut out the shape, clamp the three peices together as exact as you can, and put a small peice of cardboard  or an extra peice of glass under where the clamp touches the glass so it doesn’t scratch the glass. With the gut hook on the sword, you may not be able to cut everything perfect and there will be many chinks and duvets in the of the sword.  This is where the wonderful item of sandpaper comes in. 

So, you’re going to want to sand out those chinks and duvets and stuff until it’s smooth. You can smooth down the end of the guthook too, to make it skinnier or sharper or whatever but just be careful, since sharp object aren’t usually allowed at cons if you’re using it for these purposes. Sanding takes a lot of time and patience and some strength to do. 

After you sand all these chinks out and make them smooth and beautiful it should look a lil somefin like this: 

(If it’s hot be sure to drink plenty of water as you can see that I was doing)

Look at that baby stage of the sword. You can see it set up on the clamps after I have sanded it down. 

ARIGHT. Here, we get down to the nitty gritty :3 

So take apart these piece of plexiglass and remove the safety film from each piece. wash the pieces with soap and water VERY VERY GENTLY SO YOU DO NOT SCRATCH THE PIECES and make sure no soap is left on them, then set them on a towel to dry off. After they dry, take one piece and your blue spray paint and your paint tape stuff and go outside. 

First, tape off your sword where you DO NOT WANT THE PAINT TO BE. Here is a diagram of where the tape should be put: 

All the blue should be taped off to the BEST of your abilities. You may have to tear different peices of the tape to get that perfect curve. Then, lay it on a flat surface where its ok to get paint on. Then, spray the shit out of that thing. until it looks something like this and is COMPLETELY COVERED like this: 

DO NOT TOUCH THE PAINT FOR AT LEAST TWO DAYS IT WILL SMUDGE AND SHIT

After two days, you may remove the tape and it should looks somefin like this: 

Now here  is where we glue.

Take your two clear and one painted sheets of sword and sandwich them with the painted one in the middle of the two clear. Make sure they are PERFECTLY ALIGNED or else the sword will be bumpy and stuff. Now use something like epoxy or some kind of silicone and glue all the pieces together. ((honestly I used superglue although your SHOULD use epoxy. superglue held for a while, but not after a day of conning and posing))

Next, is where your PVC pipe comes in. You can cut it to whatever length you would like but I cut mine to a length of about 9 inches. Remember, it has to fit the maglite, and the “tail” of the sword. 

Now, take your PVC pipe and cut a slit into it about 3/8 of an inch wide and 2-3 inches deep (enough to take in the “tail”, which should slide right into the pipe, and a few inches of the blade itself). Then, slide it into place inside of the pipe.

Next, take your screws and screw into the side of the pvc pipe, through the plexiglass to hold it into place inside of the PVC pipe. Use as many screws as you like on either side though I used three. Make sure to keep your “tail” centered in the PVC pipe. once that’s done, you can see the sword starting to come together!

for this step you will need to bust out your paint and clay. Form the clay around the PVC pipe going over the edge of it a bit to hide the pipe. Form the hilt of it with the stinger-like appendages.

Make sure to use the picture of the sword as a reference.  take your cap and for the pincer end of the sword, form the clay on top of the cap so that it looks like the pncer. Let the clay dry for as long as needed. After it’s dried, paint both things. 

Now, take your maglite and put it into the PVC pipe. if it doesn’t stay in place, wrap some tape around it on the top and bottom (backwards so the sticky part is outside) and put it inside, lessing the bottom part just barely poke out so you can turn the light on and off as you need but are still able to fit the cap onto it. Make sure you are gentle with the cap since it IS clay and coul break. Turn the light and put the cap on and WAHLA (or whatever) you have your sword. Should look something like this:

There you go, friends! I hope this worked for you! 

If you’ve got any questions or confusions, please ask! I’m welcoming to anything!
~Fangy

well, I guess I’m bidding on a used dremel tool on ebay now so here’s the (very lumpy) beginnings of the millennium ring

it’s warm and humid out so the polymer clay was being fussy and sticky and way too malleable so the actual ring part is very, very rough because i coated the inner ring of an embroidery hoop in it to make sure I had an accurate circle and gotdamn it is hard to smooth it out like that like it’s not like you can just roll it to smooth it out and shit

so hopefully I’ll win the bidding on this dremel tool and I can make the ring part all nice and pretty and then I’ll make the inner triangle and the eyelets for the spikes to attach to and I’ll mold the whole thing other than the spikes as one piece and I can just whip these things out of resin like it’s nobody’s business

anonymous asked:

sorry, same ask from earlier and realized you just use paint, do you have any tips on where to get all the power tools from?

That’s okay!

I got my power tools from Menard’s. I got my heat gun for my birthday, but the same one I have is like $20 at Walmart so you don’t need a fancy heat gun or anything like that! Heck, you could use a stove top or powerful hair dryer if you’re determined or cheap! It won’t work as well for sure, but there are many options. :) Then for my dremel tool, that was also $20 at Menard’s and I picked that up myself. The kit I got came with the dremel itself and a few other tops to change out for different sizes or shapes or whatever you need. I used the pink topped pieces for carving the pink insulation foam for the Fujin Yumi, which I also got at Menard’s! You can also get new tops in the same section to change out when they wear down so you don’t have to buy another heat gun in order to get them again. Those are my two main power tools, but other than that I just have basics like rulers, measuring tape, a compass, box cutter (also at Menard’s) and exacto/x-acto knives which can be picked up at any hardware store or craft store. Or even Walmart! Though the hot wire cutter is actually my art teacher’s, I’ll need to ask him where he got it since I only borrowed it from him and I will need one for myself :P but I know Menard’s will have a variety of simple ones like that or even amazon too!

Thanks for asking!!

Submit Anon: Megami Tensi What?

This is the story about a girl I met in my early days of becoming a fan of anime and such. I had recently discovered anime entertainment. She didn’t quite act like a weeaboo, but her obsession with video games and anime is a tale to tell, hopefully nobody isn’t this bad. I begin.

Setting Start: = Summer, 2008

About a year after that I learned about cosplay. I became an enthusiast and no more, loving the art of making costumes and seeing people dress up in awesome getups such as Princess Zelda and the like. Although when I started to get into cosplaying, I had this extra drive to make my costume detailed as possible. In example Link’s tunic. So I may not have had $200 to buy chainmail, but I found a way to do it, and not just trim the edge of the sleeve or the bottom. Things like that.

In six months I learned how to do craft with a sander, jigsaw, Dremel tools; even picked up techniques on how to paint and even lay resin. I was in no means a perfect craftsman, but after seeing “bad” cosplay on the internet, I had it deadset in my mind to not become one of those. By the time I was done, I was a good peg above most of the “weeaboo” cosplays that were badly sewn together with satin because “it was the only fabric I could afford”.

I went to my first con in 2008, I was 21. My “teenage” years were isolated at home doing homeschool, so I was giddy excited about going to a place and meeting people that had similar interests that I did. I was in college, but the rural backwoods of a Southern state where you weren’t white nor black, nobody quite took the interests in anything “foreign” that wasn’t mudding, clubbing or church activities.

Enough about background, but it needed to be done to set the stage. There wasn’t even a nearby con. This one was the closest, a whopping 250 miles. (Animazement to be exact). I was leaping out of one place into another blindly, doing by best to look accomplished and catch up on the anime/internet culture upon arrival.

Keep reading

thatraggedyguy  asked:

What tools and accessories are used by the museum for de-braining a bird? I'd figure a dremel tool but what type of blade?

Aahhh! Bird skulls are so fragile, you absolutely don’t need anything that intense - a dremel tool would destroy the skull, which (depending on the size/species of bird) has the consistency of, like… a rice cracker. We typically use a pair of tweezers to pluck out the brain, then wipe the skull cavity with a damp paper towel to get the rest of the material. 

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N08 Modification

A UK customer recently requested a modified n08 Opinel similar in style to one I had done last year .

The blade tip was re profiled carefully into a bull-nose style and was then etched and stonewashed .

The beechwood handle was thinned on the sides then sculpted with a dremel tool and a copper lanyard tube added . It was then dyed black with leather dye before being rubbed back with wire wool for an aged effect . 

 Custom knives , sheaths and gear from rtknives@hotmail.com

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Making Minifee Magnet Wrists!!


I love the idea of magnet hands.  The ease of changing clothes, and changing hands appeals to me.  And recently, I decided that my DZ Mo was getting some new arms and hands.  We had a spare pair of MNF arms around, but not any spare hands in the correct size and color that I liked, so I ordered a pair of MNF hands from Denver Doll.  I doubted they came with the wrist attachments, otherwise I’m sure the secondhand market would be flooded with them.  So, I decided to make some, so I could purchase more magnet hands later, if I so chose.  And because my girl and I have gotten lots of questions and comments about our mod work, we unanimously decided to start attempting to document the process.  I will probably cross-post this on the Den and on Dollieh Sanctuary, but for now, my tumblr peeps get the lowdown.


First things first.  You need to have a few things.  In order, we have the most important part, the hands!  These are #3 hands, though I eventually want to get #4, #6, #7 and #8.  You will also need a wrist ball from another company.  These are Dollzone girl wrist balls.  If you don’t have a pair, you can make one from Apoxie, but it might not be as pretty.  If anyone knows a company that will sell the wrist parts alone, let me know and I will update this post, but as it stands, I don’t know of any companies that will sell them alone.  If you have resin casting experience, you could probably make a mold from a wooden bead.  An important thing to note: make sure the wrist part you are using fits both the hands and the wrist you are using it with.  I have a pair of dollzone boy wrists too, but they are just a shade too big.  The next thing you will need are some magnets.  These are 1/8x1/8 inch cylinder neodymium magnets, also known as rare earth magnets.  Don’t use anything less, or you run the risk of two things: your magnets losing strength over time, or not being strong enough at all.  I had to stick these to a piece of metal to take a picture because even as far apart as two inches, they would shoot across the table and snap together.  You can get a pack of fifty of these little jobbers on ebay for less than $15, and I’ve seen them in increments of ten for $3.  You could get away with 3/32" too, but ¼" is too big for minifees.


A few other things you will need include your choice of two-part epoxy-based clay, such as Apoxie Sculpt, milliput or Magic Sculpt, and a dremel or rotary tool.  Mine was $32 at harbor freight and included over fifty attachments, I’ve had it for four years and it’s only just now starting to give out, with near constant use for some heavy duty mods.  You will also need some sort of plastic wrap to line the inside of the wrist joint, and if you would like to tint your Apoxie, you will need pastels or acrylic paint/ink.  I ended up using some acrylic inks, instead of the pastels.  If you tint your Apoxie, tint both parts separately and then mix them.  The Super White Apoxie that I’m using has a work time of one hour and a full cure of 24 hours.


Take two pieces of the plastic wrap and hold them loosely over the openings in the hands, then drop your magnet into the opening, allowing it to take the plastic wrap with it.  Then fill the wrist joint totally full of Apoxie.  Once that is done, using small bits at a time, fill the cavity in the hand around the magnet.  Try not to move the magnet too much, but don’t freak out if you do.  It will pull itself straight again.  Once the cavity is full, mush the wrist ball into it.  Wad up the plastic wrap loosely, and leave them the hell alone so they can dry!


PART TWO COMING SOON!

Tutorial: Coat of Plates

Materials: 4mm thick leather; 1.5mm thick steel, lots of 4mm thick iron nails, waxed thread, brass buckles.  Needed: gambesson or padding ta wear beneath it.

Tools: jigsaw, drill, angle grinder with sandpaper disc, file, cutting tool (dremel in mah case), hole puncher, peenball hammer, anvil (buildin’ steel beam in mah case), dishing surface, awl, straight leather needles, bottle cap, sharpie, steel pipe.  Optioal: rawhide or vynil hammer.

Step 1:

We need a pattern, ya’ll can use mine as a guide. The measures come from measurin’ yer body with the gambessón or paddin’ already on. Front and back pieces will be symetrical.

Step 2:

With the jigsaw, we’ll cut all dem pieces on the steel sheets.

Step 3:

Usin’ a bottle cap and a sharpie, we’ll mark how we’ll round up the edges on the lower corners of the long steel stripes.  Rather than cut the excess, we’ll shave it off quicker with a sandpaper disc and an angle grinder.

Step 4:

With a file, we’ll soften all dem edges, since after cuttin’ they’ll be al sharp.  Fer good measure, we’ll do it on both sides of every piece o’ steel.

Step 5:

Time ta curve the long strips.  Not ‘ard usin’ tis intricate method: a pipe. We’ll bend em over the pipe, one by one, not usin’ too much strenght, we want dem curves ta be smooth.

Step 6:

Time ta cut the leather. Why now? Because we’ll put it over the curved sheets and see how long and wine it needs to be, if all was flat, the leather would be larger.

Step 7:

Now, usin’ the drill, we’ll make dem holes.  Ah made 5 on each horizontal lame and 2 on every vertical one.  The lower lame has also 5 more holes on the lower rim.

After drillin’ 'em, we’ll file the sharp edges left by the drill-bit.

Step 8:

Using the perforated lames as a guide, we’ll mark 'em on the leather pieces and will punch 'em.  If yer floor tis ceramics or wooden, put sumthin’ beneath the leather so ya won’t damage it.

Step 9:

Now, we’ll river everythin’ in place.  Dem rivets are hammered down into a dome shape, fixin’ everything together. 

Steps 10:

On the side rivets of the back side, we’ll also put dem buckles, and on the side rivets of the front we’ll put the leather stripes fer 'em.  The only exception tis the lower lame, which has a long stip from the back side that embraces the front like a belt.

Step 11

Now, we only stitch or rivet the stripes that’ll hang all from yer shoulders and ya can consider it finished.