Interview today for the release of Eton x Eidos Napoli collection. Sebastian Dollinger and Antonio Ciongoli are two of the most inspiring persons I’ve ever met. Full interview will be up later next week.
Don’t miss the full collection tomorrow at Etons flagship store in Stockholm!
Schwere SS-Panzer-Abteilung 501
entering in the german town of Tondorf
probably on 16 December 1944 to join the Kampfgruppe
commanded by SS Standartenführer Joachim Peiper during the Ardennes Offensive.
The King Tiger 008 (2st gif) commanded by Battalion Adjutant Untersturmführer Eduard Kalinowsky.
The King Tiger 222 (3th gif) commanded by Oberscharführer Kurt Sowa.
The King Tiger 009 (4th gif) commanded by
Obersturmführer Wilhelm Dollinger.
This was my very first World War II book; I “acquired” it from my father’s bookshelf when I was in 6th grade (mid 1970s) and I’ve treasured it ever since. Even today, with the deluge of books covering every facet of World War II, I still believe THE DECLINE AND FALL OF NAZI GERMANY AND IMPERIAL JAPAN deserves a permanent slot on the bookshelf.
What separates this book from others is that it specifically addresses the DAILY happenings during the last weeks of the war in both Europe and the Pacific. The manner in which this period is covered is as uniquely detailed as any of the hundreds of World War II volumes in my library. Hundreds upon hundreds of photos, documents and maps I’d never seen before (or since) make this book worthy to own in and of itself. Rather than straightforward chapter form, every turn of the page includes photos, maps, copies of documents, reports, communiqués, propaganda leaflets/newsletters and brief eyewitness accounts providing a meticulously detailed account of virtually every combat action in those final weeks. The majority of the book is dedicated to the fall of Germany, mainly because its eminent collapse involved numerous Allied advances (British, American and Soviet) that had them fighting through many smaller German cities/towns. My first take on the book as a kid was how dark and foreboding this period must have been, the photos (black and white) projected the imagery of a violent storm looming over Germany and Japan … that visual sticks to this day as I still mentally refer to those images whenever I think of World War II’s final days. Many of the photos clearly depict Germany’s last-ditch attempt to gather older men (Volkssturm) and young boys to do fight off the Allied onslaught using any weapon available. Coverage of the Pacific theatre is mainly confined to Okinawa, but also includes details on the bombing of Japan, the death throes of the decimated Japanese Navy, the Soviet Union’s eventual advance and of course, the dropping of the atomic bombs.
The material is too meticulous and choppy to enjoy a relaxing read and those looking for a linear and straight-forward approach to the subject may not enjoy the book as much. But for those interested in getting their hands on a one-of-a-kind World War II book that presents a “view-from-above” perspective of the wars chaotic end, I would highly recommend picking up a copy.
Swedish shirt maker Eton is not just one the multiple different shirt makers any more. Last year they launched the most interesting collaboration - when it comes to #menswear - with Eidos Napoli and season after season they seem to step up their game not just in terms of shirts but with the range of accessories and overall look and feeling of the brand as well. But well, when a brand has a guy like Sebastian Dollinger as their head of design - what else can one expect.
For the upcoming fall and winter season Eton has searched inspiration from nature; The impact of landscape and wild habitants by the Swedish archipelago is shown in the Autumn/Winter 2015 Collection through different prints, material choices and even in detailed figures showcasing the wildlife in the form of foxes pine cones and birch trees.
I was invited by Eton to make an interview with the two of the most inspiring persons alive on this planet. The interview took place at the beautiful Hotel Lydmar and it was with the successful Antonio Ciongoli, Creative Director at Eidos Napoli, and Sebastian Dollinger, Creative Director at Eton. After a warm welcome we sat down at the this beautiful decorated floor in the hotel and started the interview straight away.
(Be warned this is a long interview but I can assure you that it’s worth your time. The collection is already available in Stockholm at Etons flagship store since two weeks ago. For more information regarding the collection and when it will be available in London and New York can be found here).
“First of all I just wanted to say that I truly love Eidos Napoli, I think it’s the most inspiring brand out here at the moment and Eton have always had a special place in my heart for being one of the most versatile shirt markers in the world. When I first heard about the collection I was truly amazed and I think that this collaboration is the best thing that happened to the Swedish market and is the start of something even better.”
“Straight to the first question, where did you find the inspiration for this collection?”
Antonio: One of the reasons why I was so excited about doing this when the opportunity kind of represented itself was because of that I used to come to Stockholm a lot and I have a tremendous appreciation for Scandinavian style and practically the way that Swedish people interpretive Italian style. When I was working for Michael Bastian I was kind of wrapping my head around what I was going to do if I was going to do something on my own that was largely informed by the time I spent here.
What was interesting to me was about the way that the Scandinavians interpretive Italian style is that it’s very much about cut and focus on texture. It’s not necessarily so much tone of bright colors and that’s one of the things that Isaia does very well is to inject very bold colors in interesting ways and so for me I tried to focus on texture and things that are a little bit more consistently classic. For example the suit that I’m wearing today is 100% raw silk fresco, it’s a classic char stripe suit but If you look it a bit closer it really uneven and it focus are on interesting texture and fabric and I think that is something you’ll see in Stockholm and that’s something I always saw and wanted to put focus on in that way. If you look at the Eidos component of our collaboration it all about fabric and texture. We have the beautiful casentino coat, the double breasted jacket with the hopsack fabric and it’s a dens texture there as well and the chalk stripe is raw mélange, nothing is flat, clean and boring. We try to take those core ideas that it will make a guy kind of more interesting and just a little bit more exciting.
Sebastian: I think that we were partly inspired at what the guys over at Eidos do and also what we have been doing ourselves the last couple of seasons with the green ribbon line where we focus on the fabric, cut and colors. We always try to be innovators in fabrics and for the shirts in this collection we did a sort of flannel weave, that’s something that we made by ourselves and that is completely new on the market. Normally if I say flannel you will probably think about something heavy, rusty or rustic. We wanted to have something that suited this type of outwear and tailoring but in a refining way. Because normally you wouldn’t be able to wear a poplin shirt for this and a twill shirt wouldn’t be the best choice either. Really washed-out oxford would be an alternative but it’s too casual for me. So working with our flannel base that we created ourselves was just fabulous, and the cut of the shirts, like having a modern cut where you really worked with the armholes, the flow of the colors, deeply with the interlining of what’s inside the shirts and the cuffs.
I don’t think people understand of much work that goes in to making these things and especially have innovation in these basic things as a shirt is. The same goes with ties, we have all these combinations of fabrics and what do we do with the ties then? Yet again we try to innovate the tie quality, it’s so hard to get the linings right and hard to find the right producers for the special types of weaves so we had to come up with weaves there again ourselves. We don’t go to the suppliers and ask “What do you have?” we go there and say "We want this”. We already made the fabric ourselves, we have started to do so much in-house now and we started to work in a completely different way. Instead of looking at things at suppliers we come there with ideas, both construction and of course with patterns as well. I always think that in order to have a fun and exciting outfit it always starts with quality.
If you perfected quality then you are allowed to play around and I think that what annoys me a lot of Swedish tailoring is that it’s often a good cut but if you look at the quality you’re always get disappointed. That really annoys me and that’s when you get the opportunity to do something with somebody that you really appreciate which is Isaia and Eidos and both of us stands for innovation and creativity but we are grounded in craftsmanship and that’s what I think is really exciting. I don’t think many people can brag about that where all are focused about marketing and sales in this market, but we will never get rid of that stuff from our business but at least we can be in forefront of quality and that quality doesn’t have to boring.
“Antonio, for all your previous collections you always had a wonderful story behind it, do this collection tell any story?”
The original idea that came out for this collaboration started in our fall collection this upcoming season that was all about Florence. So we just launched that campaign last week and it was about Florence history and artisans. The real kind of focus was on the relationship between the artisan and the patron in Florence and how this kind of idea between two different types of architects that divided the collection. The artists was someone who produces a beautiful pair of handmade shoes or a wonderful suit, someone who works with his hands every day and have a heighten sense of style and elegance but they making incredible products every day.
The main kind of inspiration for the sportswear (the artisan was the sportswear) was the Florentine shoemaker Roberto Ugolini. Roberto is a little bit rough around the edges and we actually shot with Roberto on our campaign and he wears really kind of hard-wearing but very cool elegant things. So that was what we tried to do to take this kind of idea of Florentine workwear and the mix it back to very refine tailoring clothing basically for the bespoke patron. We did some three piece suiting and there’s a Tuscan references in the fabrics you’ll see, there’s the casentino coat with the martingale belt at the back and elements of sportswear, beautiful kind of body warmer in a wool cashmere mix and a sweater with wooden sway toggles that’s great under a sport coat. And then you can see in our double breasted silhouette that is what we call the Lorenzo model and it’s directly inspired by Florentine tailoring and particularly the tailoring events that been going on. So you can see that it doesn’t have that kind of classic dart that a normal coat would have down at the front of the coat. This has an angel dart that runs from the underarm and what is does is gives you waist compression but it also maintain a much cleaner front through the coat, being a kind of more generous broad sweeping lapels, unlined, really kind of sophisticated, a little bit of extended shoulder, wide pocket flaps, a really kind of elegant piece. That was the overhanging inspiration from my end of the collection and I’m so happy that we are able to mix it in with the Eton shirts and ties in a kind of seamless way because there’s an incredible focus on color and texture and fabric as well on the Eton collection. I mean it looks like one and the best kind of collaboration is the one other like that.
And you have to try on that coat, it’s amazing!
“Sebastian, do you have any story behind this fantastic collaboration?”
Sebastian: Before Antonio came there was already a million of great blue jackets out there, so should we make another blue shirt or suit? No let’s try to push bit just a little bit and once you have it on you will realize and it’s not just a look, it’s feel and it will be in your wardrobe as long as you are standing up and I think that’s where we can be proud of ourselves. It’s just not only about the quality but it also about having a hint of fun and that’s what this collaboration is for me. And when you hear the word sartorial it sounds and feels old and a hint of your grandfather but apply modern it’s something different and I think it’s exciting that Eidos ground construction are usually found in workwear and we try to look in in the same way for our news fabrics that are also based in the workwear, like our new flannel but in a in a very refining way.
What’s the story behind the collaboration and how did you find each other?
Sebastian: I tell you why it happened. First of all our sales director Erik Wilkinson is good friends with the Isaia chairman, Jim Shey, and they know each other for ages and they actually worked together a long time ago so that where it initially links us. I’d say probably in around 200 stores around in US and Canada Eton and Isaia currently own the ready to wear business and that’s really cool. But then I heard about Eidos and what’s really exciting is the taking that Eidos was doing on tradition tailoring and epically rooted in this hardcore quality. We could as well have cooperated with Isaia but I think Eidos is slightly more exciting in a way and there’s no expectation on Eidos from a consumers view, they are free to do whatever they like (thank god). Because when you have expectations you really have to deliver to a certain audience or look and they are free to do whatever they like. I think that’s extremely cool because normally you see younger brands that unfortunately having a hard time with their minimums and manufacturing and that’s why a lot of younger brands have poor quality. But here’s someone has a great support of manufacturing and also with a stable company behind them and they can afford to being playful and that’ why they also will be on the main innovators in the coming years, this is a big brand in the making and we are just exciting to be a part of it. It has taken us 86 years to be where we are and I think we have all taken the grander trip since 5 years ago and a lot of things have happened since then. I think Eidos will be one of the big exciting new, it’s not just another classical brand. That’s one of our big parts why we wanted to play with Eidos.
Antonio: The relationship between Erik and Jim was the definitely the thing that started it and I talked a bit earlier why I was excited for this collection. Eton is the name of shirts in America and you see them at all the best stores, there’s always a strong Eton presence there and so for when idea kind of came across to me, the idea of working with the one the best shirts markers in the world that focuses on quality and have the mentality behind fabric innovation and development sounded awesome to me. Then the kind of kicker of being based in Sweden and Stockholm holding a special place in my heart was definitely something that made completely sense to me and something I was really excited about.
Sebastian: When the rest of crew came up with ideas how to bring this to Sweden I was really excited. A lot of times we don’t get things here in Sweden, hardly Scandinavia are some map for new developing brands or big brands in Italy, north America, Germany, England, they tend not to come to Sweden and I find that extremely sad. What I have seen the the five years is a lot of guys in their mid 20s start to wear quite nice tailoring.
Antonio: I would say the last five because when I was here three years ago I couldn’t agree more, the baseline of understanding of clothing for a younger guys is much higher then in the US for sure. So I’m thankful that this has given us the opportunity to in introduce Eidos to the Scandinavian market for sure. It’s wonderful, it’s a great opportunity. Ha-ha I’m sorry Sebastian I didn’t mean to interrupt you!
Sebastian: Ha-ha No no it’s OK! I just went underneath there.
In the end of the day how many traditional crafting brands would have guys like us working there, early 30’s, extremely interested, brought up within tailoring? Normally you will be met by a 70 year old guy that will bore you about how they made a lapel. You know, we love those things too but won’t go there if not asked. I find that interesting because the growth back on our side is not so big because you can hardly find a good tailor nowadays right? Even in the US.
Antonio: Well yeah especially in the US it’s almost impossible.
Sebastian: In Sweden it’s really hard too and everyone wants to be fashion designer but how many people wants to work with traditional clothing? I find the most interesting part that you delivers something that you could be proud of.
Antonio: I couldn’t agree more, I like the idea giving a guy, helping a guy in general, but giving him something that he can have for a long time, something that he could rely on. If we think about Eidos in the long term is about serving our customer and making sure that he has something that he’s not gonna wear for one season and that’s why it has to be about timelessness for sure. We are definitely trying to do things that are different what it would be at Kiton or something like that that’s done by guys that are a little bit older and have been doing it for a very long time.
“So a quick question for Antonio because of your love for Stockholm, what’s you favorite restaurant?”
Antonio: My favorite restaurant in Stockholm.. Well it’s funny when you think about because a lot of this revolves around hotels that I stayed at because we always did a lot room service but what I really liked when I was working at Gant was the Hotel Jay in Nacka Strand and I like that restaurant a lot, right by the water, it’s great summertime. It’s good, really good. And the tuna tartate here at Hotel Lydmar is awesome!
“Time is running out so this will be last question for now. What’s your favorite piece from the collection?”
Antonio: I love the Lorenzo top coat but the raw fisherman sweater is probably my favorite piece from the collection. The sweater was inspired by the window grids at The Campanile in Florence and was the first piece I actually did for the collection. All the tailoring clothing and I pick a sweater ha-ha!
Sebastian: Ha-ha! Well I should probably go for a shirt but I wont! I’m actually torn because I love both the double breasted Lorenzo coat and the casentino coat but I would probably say the he casentino coat because of how it’s constructed and that it’s water resistant and it drapes to beautiful when you put it on.
“That was all guys, thanks a lot of this wonderful interview and of your inspiring words.”