Hey, thanks for not taking offense to that. I really care about bunnies and don’t want to see them die from misinformation. You really seem to care about your bunny and I do realize good information can be difficult to come by especially when there are varying sources that tell you one thing and another telling you something else. You do have the caging down. I applaud you on that! Your bun’s cage is excellent in comparison to most! As long as your bunny gets lots of floor time I’m sure he/she is well exercised. Mine typically gets 3-4 hours but likes to hide most of the day and night.
For diet a few good pages to refer to are: (These are my favorite for general rabbit care too)
http://kanin.org/ugress (in germane so you need to use Google Chrome to translate)
In general, yes a bunny should have 70-80% of their diet made up of hay (timothy, oat, botanical, orchard or brome are suggested). This means that a small salad is provided daily which is generally about ½-1 cup of veggies for the size of your rabbit. Your rabbit seems fairly small (but I could be wrong) so it wouldn’t need more than a few pieces of whatever greens you’re feeding. In general, greens should be on a rotation. As an example, one week you can feed romaine, dill and mint and the next week you should feed different greens such as kale (small amount), lemon balm leaves and cilantro. For my rabbit I rotate him on mint, crabgrass, kale, dandelion greens, spinach (small amount), romaine lettuce, cilantro, dill and parsley. He typically gets 2-3 of those each week depending what looks good at the store.
Pellets should ALWAYS be plain timothy pellets with the main ingredient being timothy hay. Never buy “fancy” brands that have extra treat items in them because bunnies will pick what they want out of that (this is called selective eating/feeding) and can unintentionally make them sick - similar to when we, humans, eat too much dessert or bad food. Unfortunately, bunnies can get VERY ill from even a bite of the wrong thing. My friend’s rabbit is actually intolerant of carrots and can’t even have a nibble.
As for treats: all fruits should be deemed at treat food. Just because we humans don’t think a carrot is particularly sweet doesn’t mean they’re not filled with sugars. Never feed pet store treats such as those apple biscuits, yogurt drops or seed bars to your rabbit. They have added sugar and are really bad for your bun. Basically all non-leafy veggies, fruits and carrots should only be fed a few times a week. Treat items should never be bigger than the size of a coin or your thumb nail. Treat items such as carrots and apples, which I’ve seen in your pictures, have way too much sugar in them and hardly have enough fiber which can cause diarrhea in your rabbit or even GI stasis, which can kill if not treated promptly and with experienced vet help. Never feed treats from pet stores. There are some natural treats here: http://www.saveafluff.co.uk/rabbit-info/treats-for-rabbits, but even I would read the ingredients and serving sizes to make sure that they are suitable for your rabbit.
Also, rabbits shouldn’t get bathing sand/dust from the pet store.Those are designed for chinchillas, hamsters and some other pets. Rabbit’s have very delicate respiratory systems and if they inhale the sand/dust it can make them very sick. Rabbits bathe themselves meticulously by licking themselves similarly to cats and to add, they should never be submerged in water. If their coat gets dirty and must be cleaned (such as a poopy butt) you should use a wet washcloth to gently clean their fur!
Finally, when switching your bunny’s diet (because you will need to cut out treat items that you are feeding too regularly such as carrots, apples and other fruit) slowly reduce the amount of whatever it is that you need to stop feeding them and slowly move toward something else. Make sure as you’re adding in greens you do so in small portions to make sure your rabbit tolerates them. If your rabbit doesn’t you will have soft/squishy or wet poops in his litter. If severely intolerant or gets too much of something that he is intolerant of he/she may develop diarrhea. Here is my post on poop: http://pickle-bun.tumblr.com/post/123924249795/many-of-us-have-questions-regarding-rabbit-poop
I hope that helps! Your bunny seems happy but it’s the human’s job to know what they can/should eat and how much they should eat!
Other things that I might mention just in case (since I don’t know your situation): You should have your rabbit spayed/neutered/fixed/surgically altered so they don’t develop cancer. Fixing your rabbit helps keep them healthier, live longer and can reduce hormonal behavior such as urinating outside of their litter box, spraying, severe chewing, mounting, aggression, digging and more, although it’s never a guarantee. Rabbits should also generally have a rabbit friends that they can hopefully be bonded to. Although some bunnies (like mine) are very territorial or aggressive to other buns and could cause harm to other bunnies if attempting to bond. Other things that may make your bunny ineligible for a bond are medical problems like snuffles, viruses and defects that can make a stressful bond dangerous. More on bonding here: http://rabbit.org/should-i-get-a-friend-for-my-rabbit/ AND (my favorite guide for bonding bunnies) http://www.rabbitnetwork.org/articles/bond.shtml
If anyone has anything to add, feel free. This is actually helpful to lots of pet owners. We all make mistakes and learn as we go and passing on useful, correct information and different views/situations can be beneficial to others!