Raf Simons has made fashion history yet again. The Belgium-born designer at the helm of Calvin Klein won both the Menswear Designer of the Year and Womenswear Designer of the Year Award at the 2017 CFDA Awards for his Fall 2017 Calvin Klein collection.
What’s more, Simons’s big win is only the second time in the history of the CFDA Awards that the same designer has won both the menswear and womenswear prizes in the same year. The other designer to do it? None other than Calvin Klein himself, who took home both statues in 1993.
- Shoutout to all the designers and technicians whose awards were given during commercial breaks and whose speeches were cut to a 5 second sound bite
- Shoutout to all the stage managers and technicians who made the Tony Awards run smoothly and perfectly
- Shoutout to the sound designers who would have been nominated but were robbed of recognition by the still bullshit removal of their award
- Shoutout to every young designer or technician who watches the Tonys year after year while the awards they may one day be nominated for are distributed offscreen because “~There’s no way to fit everyone otherwise~”
- You are a crucial part of theater and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Be loud. Demand recognition. Do not settle for less.
What About Pierre? Looking at the Yellow Waistcoat in “The Great Comet”
A little something different this afternoon; rather than looking at a specific character or show, I’m going to look at a specific item of costuming that caught my eye this season. Paloma Young was nominated for the Tony Award for best costume design this year, and as I noted in my Banstand review, I am quite an admirer of her work. Her designs on Natasha, Pierre, and the Great Comet of 1812 are no exception, and are definitely worthy of a full, traditional review later on this year.
But when I think of the performance, one piece in particular stands out for me: the rich yellow waistcoat worn by Pierre (Josh Groban in the original run, occasionally replaced by show composer Dave Malloy). More than any other costume on a male lead this season, the waistcoat sticks out in my mind as particularly well done and beautiful. Perhaps it’s because I have a strong fondness for classical designs, or perhaps it’s because of my love of 18th and 19th century fashion (not that I would ever revive it in the current day, but there’s something so absolutely crisp and appealing about the clothing of that era). Either way, I wanted to dedicate some time this afternoon to looking at this piece in a bit more detail:
This waistcoat might be my favorite article of male costuming from the 2017-2018 season. It’s a beautiful shade of yellow, almost a rich mustard shade without being dull, the leaved pattern running in columns is elegant and detailed without being distracting or overbearing, and I love the double column of burnished brass, nearly black buttons. Like many fabrics on broadway, the lighting can give it a different look depending on the angle, and I like that it appears a brighter yellow in some shots and during some scenes:
To me, that shows not only Ms Young’s skill, but the versatility of the fabric. When designing a stage costume, it is very easy to forget to take into account the lighting design of the performance and focus on a single scene or a single moment in the production. Professionals, though, know that the choice of color needs to be made carefully, both for the primary design and for any elements of patterning or adornment.
This waistcoat is a master class in how to balance those concerns. When against a darkened background, as in the first still, with direct lighting, it takes on that rich mustard that I said I loved. In the second still, the lighting is more diffuse and gives it a more vibrant feel which fits with the raucous scene behind the Pierre character.
The character of Pierre–”poor bewildered and awkward pierre”–is a brooding one, and the bright color (even when it appears much richer) helps to offset that a little bit. But when the character is looking darker or more brooding, the waistcoat once again changes subtly in order to reflect that. Take a look at it when it’s partially covered by a black overcoat for an idea of what I’m talking about:
This has to do with the cut and flow of the fabric, something that is one hundred percent down to the designer’s choices. Notice how the waistcoat appears almost constricting, as opposed to the more open feel in the previous stills. Like whatever burdens Pierre is contemplating, the waistcoat weighs him down a little bit. It’s a subtle thing, but an important one.
Normally, I would note that many of the elements of the waistcoat would not be apparent to the audience and would only be apparent in promotional images like these. But The Great Comet is really not your average production. The audience is literally onstage, or at least the banquettes, tables, and armchairs allow members of the audience to be onstage. The cast also frequently seems to mingle in the seats a little bit, and the movement of every character allows the costume to be seen by a far wider percentage of the audience than might normally be the case.
I really enjoy this design on a number of levels. The color and pattern are beautiful, and the way it responds to the varied lighting of a production (one which is more varied than even the typical Broadway show) is a testament to Paloma Young’s skills as a designer. Taken as a whole, it’s a beautiful item of clothing that does what good costuming should do: elevate the character, draw the eye, and create a kind of magic that helps to put the audience in the performance rather than be suspended outside of it.
It takes a lot to costume two amazing Broadway shows at once, and I can’t help but once again congratulate Ms Young on a fantastic job!
CALIXXTA’S NAMELESS COUSIN WHO IS THE BEST WARLOCK DAD. His son has the perfect voice claim. This video too. Agh. And this. So cute. His son wants to become a powerful sorcerer like papalock john, but his lisp prevents him from casting spells… so he resorts to really noob magician tricks like making coins “"APPEAR” from other’s ears.
No. 2: Gray mini skirt, white tank top and ivory fur jacket and Vivienne Westwood heels with Naomi Campbell during the Designer of the Year Awards at the Natural History Museum in New York City, October 19, 1993
Polaroid cameras were widely loved due to their ability of capturing moments instantly. No matter how advanced the digital camera technology gets, there is still no way it can beat the charm of an instant film camera. Instant film cameras are loved by professional and amateur photographers alike because they have the ability to assess the lighting and exposure within seconds - and also because, let’s keep it real, they are fun! While Polaroid the name became synonymous with instant film, they unfortunately no longer produce cameras or film and the ones you’ll find will be old ones still floating around. Luckily, Polaroid film was resurrected by Impossible Project, and there are other options available, in both cameras and instant films.
Best Instant Camera Options Available
Instant cameras can be bought on eBay where you will find several types of cameras including the old ones and the newly designed ones by Fujifilm and Polaroid. Let’s take a look at some of the best instant cameras available in the market and the films that they are used with:
Fujifilm Instax Mini 50S
Fujifilm Instax Mini 50S is one of the best instant cameras available that takes two pictures with a single click. The camera offers a high-performance flash feature that sets the camera’s shutter speed automatically based on the light conditions. It is a perfect instant camera for capturing photos in a dimly lit environment. The camera’s close-up lens is another feature that is extremely appealing, especially to the pro photographers, as they can take accurate pictures from a distance of 35cm.
Fujifilm Instax Mini 8
The Fujifilm Instax Mini 8 is cute, compact, colorful and probably one of the most popular instant film cameras available today. Thanks to its reasonable price and readily available Fuji Instax film, this little guy is a great choice for anyone looking to delve into the world of instant photography without rifling through boxes of old Polaroids and decoding Impossible Project film compatibility. It features a fixed shutter speed at 1/60, and the flash will always fire and adjust automatically according to your exposure.
Lomo Instant by Lomography
Another instant camera being produced and used today is Lomo’Instant by Lomography. This camera comes with an instant flash. The camera consist of different features that provide more flexibility over photography including different shooting modes, removable lenses, aperture control, and multiple exposure setting.
Latest for CIO magazine and the 2015 Industry innovation Awards Ceremony. The story and the event are to celebrate winners who are light years ahead in what they are doing in the industry.
When I first got the prompt: “Light Years Ahead”, I entertained the idea of sending in a completely black page because, well…if someone is light years ahead, then it will take many years for their light to travel through space and reach us. Then I decided that’s a bad idea as a) it wouldn’t be festive at all for the celebration and b) it’s a bit nerdy. So here is what I came up with in the end.
Sure, lots of small EDC knives can handle utility tasks, but few are actually built for the job. You usually have to trade heavy-duty heft for a smaller size and weight. And with a thin and slim blade, you might not have the confidence to tackle larger tasks. The innovative new Ripsnort from CRKT approaches this problem in a different way. It’s a fresh take on a small everyday carry utility blade. Fitting that it’s made by Philip Booth, who won last year’s Blade Show Most Innovative Design Award.
The Ripsnort features an impressive cleaver-style blade that’s perfect for utility tasks. Its sharp 8Cr13MoV stainless blade steel is also easy and simple to maintain. A solid liner lock should give you confidence that the knife won’t fail on you when the going gets tough. Plus, the easy flipper opening makes it a cinch to open the knife with a single hand. That flipper also doubles as a large guard keeping your hand out of your own blade during rough use.
But even though it has an impressive look, the Ripsnort is still a small EDC knife. The blade measures a modest 2.831" inches, and the knife is less than 7" in length when open. And at 6 ounces, it won’t be a undue burden in your pockets either.
With the Ripsnort, you can stop wondering whether your EDC blade can handle the task at hand. Pick one up and see for yourself at the link below.
“Thank you for having me – I wrote [my speech] down because I was afraid I would make eye contact with Beyonce and forget everything,” Williams joked, nodding to the fact that Queen B was among the music and industry luminaries in the audience. “This the greatest honor I could receive, because this is the legacy I want to leave. To be in a band with my two best friends and never do anything that was something we didn’t want to do. It’s an amazing and powerful thing to be celebrated for who you are. There are a lot of girls who never feel that way, and I want to spend my life making them seen and heard.” –Hayley Williams accepting the 2014 Billboard Women in Music honor for Trailblazer of the Year.