cut fabric

thank you both for such nice messages, I’m so glad you like my art…!! hopefully I can help at least a little bit!

anon 2) my brush settings can be found here!
anon 1) wrinkles can get pretty complex! it depends on the type, weight, thickness, and cut of the fabric, whether the character is in motion, etc; I wish I could get into everything, but it’s a huge subject that I don’t think I could possibly cover…!! but I can at least give you some very very basic tips on building up a dress (and the lace underneath!)

here are some examples of dresses I’ve drawn recently. they might seem complex, but when broken down to their most basic form, they’re actually very simple shapes that follow very similar rules!

are you seeing any patterns between them? while they do differ a bit, they’re by and large made from the same long line that curves into itself and back out. learning where this line goes and how it changes under different circumstances is learned largely through practice and intuition, but there are some steps you can take to begin building a foundation to work from! (or at least to sort of break down the process!)

  1. determine the shape/angle of the dress itself. in this example, I’m using a big poofy dress shown from slightly below!
  2. use this as a guide when adding that curving line from before. think of how the fabric folds, and keep in mind that the direction of the curve (and how harsh it appears) depends on where it falls on the dress and the angle at which it’s being viewed from. in this example, it’s more pronounced on the edges, and is facing different directions on the left and the right sides.
  3. wherever cloth folds, wrinkles appear! wrinkles will be more abundant where the cloth is more compact; in this case, that’s toward the waistline. on a dress like this, a fold will originate at the waistline and radiate downward; this means that on an uninterrupted fold, the line that you draw should (if you were to continue it all the way, which is not always necessary) reach cleanly back to the waist. I added one translucent line to help illustrate this idea!
  4. want to add a lace layer? it’s the same concept!! add your basic curving line underneath, keeping in mind that the cloth above will likely mirror whatever it’s falling over. (not perfectly, but somewhat!) so try to keep it a little consistent!
  5. details are easy now!! you can add any sort of lace pattern you want by just tracing over that first line! I used a basic scallop shape here
  6. want even more lace? just repeat step four as many times as you want underneath your last layer of lace!

once you get the hang of this part, figuring out more complex stuff gets much easier! I’m not great at explaining things, but hopefully you were able to come away with some kind of new information, haha…!! I’m wishing you both the best with your art!!!

From the Free CeCe McDonald Facebook page

!!!Attention CeCe McDonald lovers!!!
CeCe gets out of prison in just a little over 2 weeks. We are looking for a few donations. If you have any of these things laying around the house please feel free to drop them off for CeCe at The Exchange, 3405 Chicago Ave, Mpls.
*Twin sized bed frame: Headboard/footboard/ralls/all that!
*Sewing supplies: Needles, threads, pins, fabrics, cutting boards, notions, patterns, etc.
*Gift cards to Target, Grocery Stores, Joanne fabrics, Walgreens, etc.

Boost this!!
Sewing Tips and Tricks for Beginning Cosplayers

Hello friends! For all those beginning cosplayers out there - never fear. I have compiled a list of tips and tricks I wish I would’ve known before I started sewing.

1. When in doubt - leave a big seam allowance 

I can’t tell you the number of times i have cut things too small because I forgot about the stupid seam allowance, then was sad when I suffocated. Usually 1.5 cm is enough, but when in doubt cut it big. It is so much easier and less time consuming to re-sew something because it’s too big than to cut out new fabric and start over.  Trust me on this one - never skimp out on seam allowances

2. The right fabric is the best thing you can buy 

This can mean the right color to the right type of fabric. As far as color goes, it’s important to make sure all the colors in the costume match nicely together. I strongly advise to not only have reference pictures when fabric shopping but also at least a sample of the other fabrics you will be using. That way, you can make sure everything matches and will look great put together. Also, when buying fabric you need to make sure that is the right kind. For example, you don’t want to make a dress that is supposed to be flowy out of a heavy dense fabric. When in doubt, ask a store employee to help you decide what kind to use. Usually cotton blends satisfy most needs. Also while on the topic of fabric - wait until the fabric stores go on sale. Hancock actually has a new sale every week basically so you shouldn’t have to wait long. 

3. Buying enough fabric

Maybe I’m just seriously dumb, but when I first started cosplaying I didn’t realize that on the back of the pattern it suggests how many yards of fabric you should buy. Yeah. It kind of blew my mind. Also, with time you can start to gauge how much you need. If you’re not using a pattern here are some GENERAL guidelines I use for buying fabric. - Long Sleeved Collared Shirt: 2 yards. - Pleated Short(ish) Skirt: 1 ½ yards - Blazer: 2 ½ yards - Shortish Short sleeved dress: 7 yards THIS IS JUST WHAT I USE AND I AM VERY SMALL SO I DON’T NECESSARILY RECOMMEND YOU USE THOSE MEASUREMENTS. If you don’t buy the right amount of fabric, you can always take a sample back to the fabric store and purchase more of the same kind. It’s important to bring back a sample though so you’re sure you get the same kind! A receipt will also help with that. If your fabric is see through, make sure you buy enough to double it up, thus eliminating the see throughness!

4. Be prepared for mistakes 

One time there was a dress that I sewed and seriously messed up every single thing. I had to redo everything I did. My point is, make sure you leave enough time  make mistakes because they will come no matter how careful you are. 

5. Always check what you’re sewing

It is tragic to take your shirt off the machine, only to realize you’ve sewn the sleeve to the back of the shirt. Always make sure you’re sewing what you mean to be sewing. It will save you a lot of time and heartache.

6. Misc Tips 

- For the love of all things good in this world don’t hotglue things to fabric while it is on your body

- Don’t use sheet fabric. It doesn’t work. Trust me.

- Don’t drink anything other than water near your project. A Dr. Pepper stain is not a good thing. 

- Sometimes sewing slower is better. You don’t have to floor the pedal, just gently tap it.

- The bottom of your sewing machine should detach, leaving only the arm, which means you can easily sew things onto your sleeve (or other things similar, i.e a hole that needs to stay open) without fricking it up 

- Some sewing machines will thread the needle for you. Learn if yours can, and how to do it. Your quality of life will improve drastically .

- Don’t sew wefts into wigs using your sewing machine

Well, that’s all I can think of at the moment! If you have anything to add, feel free. If you have any questions or want anything explained in more detail my ask box is always open~ 

Good luck! 


The DIY Backpack

“Where did you get it from?”

“I made it!”

This holiday season, give the gift of DIY with Paul’s Rolltop Backpack Kit. This gift is great for all of the makers and creatives in your life!

Paul’s Rolltop Backpack Kit takes your sewing skills to the next level and comes with:

  • Pre-cut fabric pieces
  • Zipper and pull
  • Webbing
  • Leather connectors
  • x4 Chicago screws
  • x1 Buckle
  • x2 Tension Adjusters
  • Grosgrain bindinh

Check out more creative gift ideas here and happy making!

8 Cutout Dresses for Different Body Types

There are a million and one articles (and counting!) about different types of dresses to compliment all body types. Here’s a special one dedicated just for cutout dresses. Cutout dresses are sexy and flirty because they allow you to flash skin in unexpected areas while remaining classy and fun. But as always, take notice of where the cutouts can best be used to your advantage! While we can’t cover every single body type out there, we’ll do our best to give tips for the most common.

Sporty or Pear Shaped

The girl who swears she was born without a real waist to flaunt should look for a dress with cutouts right at the waist or the ribcage area. The eye will be drawn to where the dress’s fabric cuts in, creating the illusion of curves. And for the girl who’s pear-shaped, the A-Line will skim nicely over hips.

Left: Topshop Cutout Skater Dress
Right: Forever21 Favorite Cutout Dress

Busty and Curvy

Don’t want to show too much cleavage or conscious of too many cutouts? Look for something with delicate cuts along the collarbone or cutouts on the upper or lower back, so you don’t have to worry about your bra or the girls showing.

Left: Alexis Narelle Dress with Cutouts
Right: Forever21 Southwestern Cutout Back Dress

Humbly Busted

If you’ve been lamenting all this time on how you’re decidedly lacking in the chest department, your lucky day is here. You can probably get away with the deepest cutouts in the back of dresses because you have the option to go with a strapless bra, bra-less or with just a bralette.

Left: Line & Dot Back Cutout Dress
Right: Forever21 Floral Cutout A-Line Dress


Conscious of showing off the stomach area? Stick to cutouts at the clavicle or shoulders.

Left: Dee Elle Cutout Print Skater Dress
Right: Laundry by Shelli Segal

Be brave and make use of the different cutout styles to accentuate your body’s features. Look for more cutout dresses to suit your needs this spring!

This fashion post lovingly crafted for you by:
Rosalyn L. 
Fashion Marketing Contributor at Wantering
Currently coveting the classic Ray-Ban Clubmasters

People who order their meat well-done perform a valuable service for those of us in the business who are cost-conscious: they pay for the privilege of eating our garbage. In many kitchens, there’s a time-honored practice called “save for well-done.” When one of the cooks finds a particularly unlovely piece of steak—tough, riddled with nerve and connective tissue, off the hip end of the loin, and maybe a little stinky from age—he’ll dangle it in the air and say, “Hey, Chef, whaddya want me to do with this?” Now, the chef has three options. He can tell the cook to throw the offending item into the trash, but that means a total loss, and in the restaurant business every item of cut, fabricated, or prepared food should earn at least three times the amount it originally cost if the chef is to make his correct food-cost percentage. Or he can decide to serve that steak to “the family”—that is, the floor staff—though that, economically, is the same as throwing it out. But no. What he’s going to do is repeat the mantra of cost-conscious chefs everywhere: “Save for well-done.” The way he figures it, the philistine who orders his food well-done is not likely to notice the difference between food and flotsam.
—  Anthony Bourdain

My “Bee & Puppycat” cosplay, the shirt and shorts had to be dyed to accurate color, the bee was cut out from separate fabric and hand embroidered onto the sweater. The bows around my ankles were made from the leftover material from my shorts that were once pants. 

Great cosplay kaseemay! Sounds like a lot of work went into it, but it definitely looks worth it to us! You look Bee-tastic!

To submit your own cosplay click here.


Stretching Canvas

Painting on canvas can be costly, but you can achieve the same effect by repurposing some old fabric. Plus you’ll get great satisfaction from building your own foundation to paint on. Sort through some old clothes to find a t-shirt for your “canvas”, make sure it’s big enough to fit around your frame, cut down the excess fabric, and staple it on. There’s a finesse to finding the right tautness to your canvas, making sure not to leave it too loose or pull it too tight. From there all it needs is a few coats of gesso, and you’ve got a blank canvas to make a masterpiece on.

What else?
By repurposing old fabric, we can build and stretch a new canvas to use for painting. Consider the environmental impact made by repurposing objects that otherwise might just get thrown away. More curriculum connectors can be found here.


s05 - Functional Garments: One-piece semi drape dress.

This dress is made out of 1 big piece of fabric, no connecting seams.
(Please refer to this post to see what the dress looks like when it is spread open flat on the floor)

My main goal is to drape a dress that is able to form it’s own shape by simply just hand manipulating the fabric and take advantage of a deep angle that is cut into a fabric to create drape.

Flat fabric to dress:

Connect the dress at the left shoulder via snap buttons.
Connect the dress at the left side seam via snap buttons.

One piece fabric construction: 

-The right shoulder, although have no seam- will stand by itself due to the nature of the way the fabric wrap around the shoulder. [VIDEO
-The hem required no finishing because of the selvedge of the fabric. 
-Due to the nature of bias grain, the shaped sideseam is stretch by a little, however- by backing the leather on it, the sideseam will automatically slanted backward naturally. 

Because this is one big piece of fabric, wearer can approached it in multiple ways:

Dress 1: Front Overlap Dress [Photo: 2&3]
1: lock the shoulder/sideseam
2: fold the excess fabric on the right hand side of the angle in a fabric and loop it around 3 layers of folded fabric with a leather string. The drape will naturally appear right at the folding point as seen on the photo.

Dress 2: Reverse Teardrop Necklines Dress [Photo: 4]
1: lock the shoulder/sideseam
2: open the neckline out completely, the end of an angle will line right in the center of the chest level.
3: drop the right shoulder down underneath your arm.
4: loops the leather string around your neck and loop it back to the same holes of Dress1;step2. The drape will form right underneath the holes where the weight of the fabric is being pull up.

Dress 3: Unbalanced sleeves Cape [Photo: 5]
1: lock the shoulder/unlock 3 - 4 snaps at the end of the sideseam
2: Put your head in to the armholes, turn the original right shoulder seam to your left shoulder. Let hang on your body properly.
3: The left side of your arm now will become sleeveless, while the right is totally covered.

Dress 4: L Necklines Dress [Photo: 6]
1: lock the shoulder seam, unlock all the sideseam snap buttons
2: drop the shoulder underneath your arm the exact same way you did with dress 2.
3: spread open the angle out completely, hang the shorter side of the fabric to your left shoulder. The slanted L shape should form like shown in the photo.
4: Snap the sideseam buttons by pulling one side of the sideseam higher than the other so that the dress will close itself tighter than usual.

Dress 5: Asymmetrical Hem Cape [Photo: 7]
1: lock the shoulder seam, lock the sideseam
2: put your head into the armholes, turn the longest part of the dress to your left arm. Let hang, the drape will create automatically according to your body shape.

Dress 6: Scarf Variation [Photo: 8]
1: unlock the sideseam completely
2: wrap the dress around the neck, adjust the scarf by using the snap buttons. 

90% Wool Garbadine (Dress)
10% Nubuck Leather (Button Facing)
Trimming: Suede Leather String/Silver Metals Snap.

more photos & in motion video to come soon… 

Cosplay Shopping PSA

I know convention season will be upon us soon, and I also know that there are going to be a lot of newbie cosplayers hitting the convention floors this year as well (as there are every year).

So, since these cosplayers will likely be hitting the fabric stores before they hit the convention floors, and I’ve worked at a fabric store for over a year, I’ve made a list of do’s and don’t’s under the cut for first-time fabric store customers so that you can have a great shopping experience and so that my fellow fabric store employees will have a great service experience.

Keep reading

Left Field Olive Japanese Duck Miner Chino


I’ve always had a soft spot for Left Field. They just made great stuff. Everyone needs at least a pair of khaki and olive chinos of the workwear variety. That means a fuller cut, heavier fabric, a more rugged and robust aesthetic for your everyday adventures. These are especially enticing with their fabulous construction and heavy 12oz duck canvas.



Stasia Burrington of Seattle created this collection of portraits on brown Kraft Stonehenge paper using charcoal, sumi ink, acrylic paint and cut fabric. Keep up with Stasia and Mango Popsicle on Facebook here and here.