See this shit?
This shit is about to change your life.

This packet of stuff is called Instamorph Moldable Plastic. You literally buy a packet of this shit, and you can make any-fucking-thing.

You open it up, and you get little plastic pellets that look like this.

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Doesn’t look like much, right?


When put in hot water (140°F, 60°C.), these pellets melt into a kind of putty-like stuff, that you can mold into whatever shape you want.

They make the coolest cosplay accessories EVER because they’re plastic - they’re moderately lightweight, they’ll survive being dropped and banged around, and they’re waterproof. I made Nepeta horns and Meenah bracelets for my homestuck cosplays, but it can do a ton of other stuff too.

Also, the whole project takes maybe a half hour - 10 minutes to boil the water, 2 for the pellets to melt in the bowl (it leaves no residue, so you can use a regular mixing bowl and a spoon to pull it out of the water), a few minutes to sculpt and then a few minutes for it to dry into a completely solid, plastic whatever-you’re-making.



I got a container on for $10, but here’s the actual site so you can check it out some more.


Ok cosplayers, it has come to my attention that a lot of you don’t know what this stuff is. Sit down and let me learn you a thing. This stuff here is called Frog Juice (there’s no real frogs in it). It’s originally for stuff like vinyl signs (my dad owns a sign company, so I grew up with this stuff), but it’s even more useful for a wide range of cosplay stuff. 

Since it’s designed to protect outdoor vinyl signs, it can do a whole hell of a lot. It dries super fast (three minutes until it isn’t tacky) and shiny, so it’s perfect for anything that’s supposed to look like metal, ice, gems, etc. It’s incredibly strong and weatherproofs your stuff against ANYTHING, rain, snow, UV rays (so it doesn’t fade in sunshine), sleet, hail, whatever. It’s flexible too, so your foam will still bend and move with you without cracking. Not only that, but since it’s an aerosol, you can’t miss patches and it leaves no brush strokes, and it goes on so thin you can’t see it’s there. It doesn’t smudge, smear, scratch, or leave fingerprints, so your stuff can go a whole weekend at a con and still look brand new. 

The kicker? It’s cheap, and a can will last you forever. I kidnapped this one brand new from my dad, and I’ve so far used it (in double coats, which is unnecessary, but I like to be on the safe side) on a full set of armour, three pairs of bracers, a top hat, pauldrens, two bows, and a pair of greaves. And there’s still plenty in the can. Did I mention it can also be used to seal foam in a single, flexible coat that can then be painted over, so you don’t have to spend two days messing with glue and whatnot?

TL;DR - If you need a foam sealer, a top coat, weatherproofing, or any kind of shiny finisher, GET SOME FUCKING FROG JUICE (the brand I use can be purchased here:

Hylian Shield Tutorial by Termina Cosplay [FB] [DA]


  • insulation foam (2 inches thick)
  • craft knife/carving knife
  • sandpaper
  • paper
  • pencils
  • worbla
  • heat gun
  • apoxie sculpt
  • scissors
  • clay tools
  • water
  • wood glue
  • paint
  • paint brushes
  • leather straps
  • screws and washers
  • screw driver
  • dry wall anchors
  • drill
  • possibly a nail and hammer (for poking holes in your leather)


First, you’ll need to draw out your full sized pattern.  I like to use multiple references when making patterns.  I used a shield that we bought for a Dark Link cosplay and the concept art for the shield in Twilight Princess from the Hyrule Historia. The Dark Link shield was used for size and the concept art was used for the details.  To make your pattern perfectly symmetrical, draw only one side by hand, and then fold over down the middle and transfer what you drew over to the other side.  

Next, take your insulation foam and use your pattern to draw the shape of the shield onto it.  Then, take your carving knife (I use an adjustable exacto craft knife) and cut the shape out.

At this point, you will need to carve the round edges onto your shield. You can draw guidelines on your foam if you would like to, but I just kind of eyeballed mine.  Just take your knife and cut off small amounts of the edges until you have your curve the way you like it. As you can see, my shield has curved edges but the center is still mostly flat.  Thats how I wanted my shield to be, but if you want your entire shield to be curved, you will either need thicker foam, or you’ll need to double up another layer of foam on top of your first.  One layer of 2 inch foam just isn’t enough to cut a curve through the whole thing and still look nice.  Once you have your curve cut, you can sand it down smooth, though this isn’t necessary because your curve will likely be covered up later anyway.

The next step is to cover your foam in worbla.  This will add durability and give it a nice surface.  Cut out enough to cover the back of your shield and another piece to cover the front.  Cut a little more than you think you’ll need to avoid any mistakes and make sure you have enough on the top layer to account for the curves.  Now set your shield face up on the bottom layer of worbla and heat the top layer of worbla over the foam.  The worbla will stretch a little, but be extra careful not to let it stretch too much, because it could easily rip in the process.  Press the worbla down on the foam to seal it and work slow to make sure the curve doesn’t end up with creases all over it.  try to keep it nice and smooth, but if you end up with some seams and creases along the edge, it isn’t that big of a deal.  As long as the center is smooth you’ll be ok.

Once its cooled off a little bit, flip it over and heat up the back side and press the worbla down to seal it.  Also go over the seems between the two piece at this point to make sure its sealed all the way around.

Next, cut off the excess along the edges, but make sure you leave about a centimeter of space around it.

Use that centimeter of extra worbla you left along the edges to seal the seams even more.  Heat the edge up, and press the excess up onto the side.  Make sure you press it up on the side rather than down on the back.  You want to keep the back nice and smooth.

Now, you’ll go back to your pattern and cut all the details out of it.  If you want to you can leave one side uncut, like I have in my picture, But I think its easier in the long run to just cut all the pieces out. 

Next, tape the center of the shield pattern onto the shield, like it shows in the picture.

Use the pattern as a stencil to draw out all the details onto the worbla.  Make sure you get the outside edge as well, and not just the center details.  If you only cut half of your pattern details out, like I did, you’ll have to flip your pattern over to get the details on both sides, but if you cut everything out you won’t have to do this, which is why I recommend just cutting everything out in the beginning.  

Some details might actually be easier to free hand.  I did this with the swirly details on the top and with the bolts around the triforce and the corners.  

Once you have all your details drawn on your shield, its time to add the apoxie sculpt.  Move your shield to a workplace that can get messy.

Apoxie sculpt is a two part epoxy clay.  All you have to do is mix equal parts of A and B to use it.  I was able to do my Hylian Shield and my Master Sword with a 4 pound kit.  It is a little expensive, but the quality is worth it in my opinion.  The clay doesn’t shrink or crack at all and is very strong and solid when completely hardened, so you’ll have a hard time damaging it. It is also very easy to work with and can be smoothed out nicely with a little bit of water.  

To mix, just grab equal parts of A and B.

Roll them into logs

Twist the logs together

And knead them together until you can no longer see any streaks.  If you don’t mix it well enough, it won’t harden properly.

The first thing you’ll add with the apoxie sculpt is the outside edge.  Follow your lines around the outside edge and cover it with a thin layer of apoxie sculpt.  Get it as close the the same thickness all the way around as you can. Use your clay tools to get a nice sharp edge, and smooth it out with some water. Add the sharp edges around the corners here too.

Optional: While your clay is still soft, go in with your heat gun and a clay tool to add some gashes and battle scars to the center of your shield.  You could also do this before you start adding the apoxie sculpt, but the order here doesn’t matter

Optional: You can also add some gashes to the sides where the apoxie sculpt is.  You can even make the slash go from the apoxie sculpt up into the worbla if you want!  Its up to you :D

Next, you’ll add in the details on the center.  Just fill in the lines with apoxie sculpt…

and shape it into place with your tools! make sure to dip your tools in water to keep it from sticking.

Do this with all the details on the center.  Some places might be easier to just use your hands rather than the clay tools.  Also use your fingers to smooth the surface out with some water.  Make sure that if you have slashes in your shield, to also put the slashes through the apoxie sculpt before it hardens.  

Once you have all your main details on, let that harden for a few hours before putting the finer details on the top.  letting it harden first just makes it easier not to mess anything up when you put more on top of it.  Here, add your swirly details and the bolts around the triforce and the corners

Here is what your shield should look like after all these steps.  Let it harden for at least 24 hours before proceeding.

After 24 hours, prime it and add your paint!  How you paint it is up to you, but I mixed metallic pigments into my paint to give it an extra shine.  For details on how I paint my props and armor, check out my painting tutorial here!  If you want details on how to use metallic pigments, click here!  

At the very last step I added a couple of leather straps (from an old leather belt) to the back for holding.  This isn’t exactly what the back of the shield looks like in the game, but it works quite well.  I marked where I wanted the straps to go on the back, drilled a hole through the worbla where I wanted the screws to go, then I pounded some dry wall anchors into the holes for extra support.  I then poked some holes through the leather straps where the screws would go through with a nail and hammer, and then screwed the straps into the dry wall anchors. You can find dry wall anchors at any hardware store.  If you want to make sure your leather doesn’t rip away from the screws, use washers with the screws.

(Used with permission, full credits to Termina Cosplay)


Daenerys Cosplay Refs and Help.

So many lovely outfits and you’re looking, most can be made using modern patterns. You can buy some of these to made on commission or you can make it yourself. As with Joffrey, I’ll do my best to include as much information as possible and anything I don’t know or can’t find info on I’ll try and find you at least a few websites that might help.

For the hair it will have its own section so dont look for it under each outfit. 


Personally I think an infinity dress would work well for this but thats up to you. It appears to be a silvery grey fabric, with part of the dress attached to silver arm cuffs. The straps are also black and silver. You could either sew these on or wear something under neath the dress, but only let the straps show. 

Not sure exactly what kind of fabric it is, it has kind of a crinkly texture, some people have made it using georgette fabric, satin, chiffon AND satin, silk etc. Its up to you. If you decide to use an infinity dress pattern, you will want something with a little elastic. But if you are making it as an all in one, can dress slip into dress, you made not need to.

In the centre, is her two headed dragon brooch pin.

Her hair is mostly loose but beautifully connected by small silver beads, in various places.

Props that could work with this are the dragon eggs, find them in the prop section XD.

Fabric Ideas:  1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13.

Straps: 1,2,3,4,5, 6,7,8,9.

Pin Brooch: 1,2 (may be selling one),3,4, 5,6, 7,8.

Arm Cuffs: 1 (tutorial),2,3.

Any will be fine.

Patterns: 1,2,3,4,5.

Buy The Outfit: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7.


This outfit seems to grow in its decorations throughout the series. So some cosplayers opt for plain and others for intricate. It appears to be a wrap dress, but made of stiff blue fabric. She wears leggings/tights/whatever in grey beneath it with …boots? Idk hard to tell. She usually wears a claw necklace with this.

A few of the cosplay ones and comissioned ones are made out of blue linen. So.. thats an option.

Fabric Ideas:1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13.


Double Claw Version: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9.

How to embroider with beads:  1,2,3,4,5,6.

Pattern: 1,2,3,4.

Buy The Outfit: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7.


Love this one and its pink version. The skirt/under dress will be the easiest to do, simple brown fabric, maybe something like suede? idk. Its been worn with a pleted white under dress/skirt in promos. But thats not what you want to know. 

You want to know how to do that blue part and the lace armour. Don’t worry. Theres an app for that. (not really… im trying to be witty..) I can’t decide if its blue and silver or blue and pale gold or some other blue pattern. I chose blue and silver. 

Fabric Ideas: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7.

Lace Armour (tutorial): 1,2,3,4,5,6,7.

Patterns: 1,2,3.

Spoonflower: 1.


Very similar to above. Except in pink with leather armour. Very nice. :) 

I think the fabric is pink with silver leaves but anything pink and silver will be fine. You may have to add the leave via painting them on or embroidering them.

Fabric Ideas: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11.

Armour Patterns/tutorials: (refer also to outfit 2) 1,2,3,4,5.

Pleather, vinyl or worbla would work for this.

Armour (buy): 1.

Spoonflower: 1.

Patterns: 1, 2, 3.


This one so beautiful and flowy. Blue with a gold pattern. Most cosplayers agree that to get as accurate as possible, pick a blue fabric, a light fabric and sponge the gold on. However I’ve also provided you with fabric ideas if you dont want to do this.

Fabric Ideas: 1,2, 3,4,5,6,7,8.

some people opt for a more flowly, see through fabric and wear slips/under skirts with nude bras.

Shoulder and Belt Patterns/Tutorials: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9.

Shoulder and Belt (buy): 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9.

Beads: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8.

Assorted wooden and glass beads. Lampwork perhaps. Check charity stores for chunky jewellery or places that sell beads.

Patterns: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11.


Dress and skirt combo in very earth fabrics and colours. A pin is worn on the left breast, a smaller worn is worn beneath, both to probably hold the halter top together. And two belts are worn over the hips of the skirt. Leggings are worn beneath with high pale boots. And gloves are occasionally worn. 

Suede or linin would work for the skirt.

Fabric Ideas (halter top): 1,2, 3,4,5,6,7,8,9.

Belts: 1,2,3,4 (findings. or you may have to make your own :/)

Pin: 1,2,3,4,5.

Its a penannular brooch. 

Patterns: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10.

Buy The Outfit: 1,2,3.


Two different dress here. One white shift dress with a penannular brooch thats is its ownly decoration and a white dress, an infinity style pattern would work for, and the slave collar. She wears a bronze belt. 

No fabric ideas for this. White for one, cream or very light brown for the other.

Shift dress patterns: 1,2,3,4,5

Infinity dress patterns: 1,2. (so the wedding dress section for more.)

Slave Collar: 1,2.

Collar Tutorial:  1,2


Both worn in seson 1 and if I’m not mistaken, the same episode? The first is very see through and I advise that if you plan to wear… wear something underneath, whether its a leotard, a slip, nude bra + underskirt. Its up to you.

I think its a lavender, pale lavender colour, with a thing thin white fabric worn over the top. Again no fabric ideas for this as they are plain fabrics. There are double/triple headed dragon annular brooches on both shoulders.

There might be stitching beneath the breasts, but I can’t tell.

The other dress has been called the Kings Landing Maxi Dress. I think its a pale pink but others disagree and call it lavender as well. Its up to you which you choose. The whole thing its stitched in a darker colour and held up with cords. 

Not really any tutorials or patterns. Especially not for the back. 

Slip Dress Patterns: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7

Kings Landing Maxi Patterns:1,2 (might be able to help you)3(not sure about this one),4.

Brooches: 1, 2 (may be selling one), 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.


Gold or light brown scaly and pointy looking top with a layered skirt or a black/dark blue skirt with trims around it. Im sorry Im not good at describing. 

There probably wont be any patterns for the top. I can only find ones similiar, but they will probably only be similiar in shape and back only. :(

Fabric ideas: 1, 2, 3 (spandex though :( ), 4, 5.

Top Patterns: 1.

Skirt Patterns: 1, 2.

Sorry not much help with this one :( You could try something like burlap, a stiff fabric and paint on the scales of her top but beside that idk. Couldn’t find any cosplays either.


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She has one them a few times so heres a few tutorials/patterns for you to play with.

Cloak Patterns: 1, 2, 3.

Shoulder Armour: 1, 2, 3.


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You’re probably going to get a wig for this, let’s face it, not all of us were born with pale blonde hair. Sometimes its loose and sometimes its very intricate. You can buy either a pre braided wig or one for you to braid yourself. 

Lacefront wig is probably your best bet.

(fortunatly someone all ready made a list of a few so I’ll start with those!)

Pre Braid: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7.

Plain: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

Arda wigs reccomndations: Arwen in titanium blond, Luthien in the same, Matilda, 

Tutorials: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17.

Full guide.


The most obvious are going to be either the dragon eggs or dragons themselves. Of course that might be a little hard but thats why tutorials were invented and there are many! You can also buy them too.

Egg Tutorials: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9.

Eggs to buy: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13.

Ok..I’ve done my best with this and  she will probably have more outfits to come. Apologies for missing letters my keyboard is on the fritz. And for any double posts, kept getting distracting by new kitten. If you have any questions or more Game of Thrones requests, feel free to hit my ask.

this will be updated whenever i come across new references but heres almost all the tutorials and references i have come across


cute animal hats ruffly petticoat/skirt

giant plush squid
various clothes
bunny suits
male/female body suits
sailor fuku (school uniform)
pleated skirt
simple tie
ircle skirt
ore-tied obi
how to make a hakama

attack on titan:

snk straps snk jacket

snk blade
snk 3dmg
3dmg pattern
cosplay masterlist


easy horns horn tutorial

more horns
homestuck hair maps
equius wig tutorial
homestuck cosplay help blog

off (game):

zacharie mask
realistic zacharie mask
quick zacharie sweater
bad batter hand tutorial
bad batter head tutorial


iron helmet/sword stormcloak helmet papercraft

nightingale armor
wonderflex armor tutorial
helmet tutorial
spell tome tutorial

dangan ronpa:

ibuki wig/makeup tutorial
celestia wig tutorial
shark teeth tutorial
dr cosplay help blog

final fantasy:

final fantasy fang skirt ref
ff13 necklace tutorial

legend of zelda:

hylian shield sheik’s lyre
zelda’s armor


care for a wig
wig styling walkthrough
cut bangs on wig
gravity defying bangs wig ventilation 
cleaning a wig
detangling + washing
wash a wig
building on a wig - jessie, pokemon
huge curls
layering a wig
long hair under wig
straighten a spikey wig
sebastian michaelis - kuroshitsuji
sasuke - naruto


how to apply eyeliner coloring dark eyebrows
how to make crayon lipstick

cosplay eye makeuphow to apply blush
how to apply liquid foundation
flawless skin with makeup
airbrush makeup
acne covering makeup
girl / boy makeup
6 secrets i learned at makeup artist school
how to apply contour makeup
grell sutcliff makeup tutorial
eyebrow covering
bishounen (pretty boy) makeup
fake facial hair


fake wounds / scar
mello scar makeup

scrapes & bruises
gouged eye makeup
8 fake blood recipes
no-cook edible fake blood


make a temporary tattoo
how to conceal tattoos
sebastian contract symbol - black butler


what glue should you use
steampunk goggles
wings stretch boot cover
yarn tail tutorial

individual masterposts:

important cosplay resources

This is mainly just so I knew what his outfits where, I always feel like I understand a costume after drawing it out. So yeah, it’s more a ref than a piece of work… also I drew the greensuit one a week ago, and the grey suit last night at like 2am… so they look completely different. I’m not too happy with it, but it’s alright for a ref. I do like the greensuit one more though, maybe because I wasn’t falling asleep while inking it with a broken pen. But yeah, so I thought I’d share this. I might do more later (I do have a few sketches in my book of Once-ler). I really miss drawing super lanky characters. Still gonna do some trial and error doodles, he’s not translating TOO well into my style.