If there was ever a brand whom I constantly turned to for inspiration on a variety of menswear related subjects, it was most definitely Camoshita. In my opinion, Yasuto Kamoshita is, along with fellow United Arrows mastermind Hirofumi Kurino, one of the most influential creative personas in the current men’s “fashion” scene. Influential not in a hyped sense, but in a much profound and ultimately richer one: his unique interpretation of men’s style explores the core essence of menswear in a transversal manner, superbly merging influences from both Western and Eastern cultures.
His unparalleled knowledge of distinct styles such as American Ivy League and Italian sprezzatura, allow Yasuto Kamoshita to subtly imbue them with a trademark Japanese touch, resulting in a unique blend of garments that exude sophistication the moment you lay eyes upon them. The unmatched mix of graphic patterns, textures, lengths and proportions, along with an inherent comprehension of how formal and casual can seamlessly coexist within an ensemble, is only surpassed by the distinct color combinations on display.
The brand continuously delivers an uncanny color palette, often overlooked by many, out of fear or ignorance… however, when you’re faced with micro patterned maroon polos mixed with mustard jacquard knits and a range of brown, burgundy and turquoise, you can’t help but feel utterly overwhelmed on all fronts: both by his foresighted genius and your inability to understand the full potential of those combinations.
Yasuto Kamoshita is, simply put, one of the most stylish individuals around. With a background in architecture and a refined aesthetic sense, heavily influenced by the strong Ivy League movement lived in Japan during the 1960s, his creations embody a modern Japanese dandyism. As creative director of United Arrows, this unique blend of Japanese and American styles results in outstanding collections, marked by beautifully tailored garments and exquisite use of fabrics, patterns and textures.
The AW14 collection maintains the line of thought, delivering a modern take on classic essentials through small tweaks and attention to detail. While the Ivy League and European tailoring references are still at its core, the Japanese will to evolve and elevate things to a new level is visible in each piece. An extensive (and for some, unusual) color palette is paired with a variety of textures, print and patterns, portraying classic elegance with unique panache: bold stripes, diamonds and polka dots come to life in topcoats, suits, blazers and shirts, adding a refreshing twist on these menswear essentials. All perfectly complemented by an array of luxurious accessories such as the paisley silk scarfs of which I’m an unconditional fan.
One of my personal favourites showing at Pitti, Camoshita is one of those labels that continues to surprise season after season, much like its eponymous designer. Few brands are as eclectic in what regards merging such distinct influences as Americana, Italian sartoria and Japanese sleekness, with Mr. Yasuto Kamoshita himself embodying this mix in a most outstanding fashion. The result is a refreshing take on the above mentioned styles, combining their best features to create uniquely appealing garments.
The attention paid to fabric and construction is paramount, surpassed only by the superb pattern and texture combinations as well as the unusual color palette. The latter presents some of the best uses of yellow, mustard, brown and burgundy I’ve seen in recent years, highlighting the potential of these often overlooked shades. The collection is perfectly balanced, with heavy focus on knitwear as a complement to suits, jackets and overcoats: on this note, speckled fabrics and fair isle are presented alongside with chunkier, textured versions, comprising a selection of layering essentials.