500CM_15_26 by De Ferschter


Üniversitedeki bir öğretmenimin sayesinde keşfettiğim Kahve ile film banyosu tekniğini türkiyede bilen neredeyse kimse olmadığını ve bu yöntemi anlatan kaynakların genellikle hep yabancı dillerde olduğunu fark edince, kardeşimle ufak bir video hazırlayıp, kahve ve C vitamini ile nasıl 35mm film banyosunu evde çok hesaplı ve hızlı bir şekilde yapabileceğinizi anlatmaya çalışmıştık.
Tabiki bu sadece alternatif bir banyo ve bunun gibi bir kaç alternatif banyo tekniği daha var (belki ilerleyen zamanla onları da dener, tanıtıcı videolar hazırlarım). 
Kafası karışan, sorusu olan olursa, vimeo videosunun altından soru sorabilir, elimden geldiğince yardımcı olmaya çalışırım.

Kolay gelsin denemek isteyenlere ve keyifli izlemeler.

2012 | ET production 

Caffenol How to.

So a while back i promised i’d show everyone how to do “caffenol” development and the results it could bring once i had familiarised myself with the process. 

I’ve used a few different brands of coffee and vitamin c so i shall be showing uk readers brands that i can personally guarantee work for this process.

You will need:

Instant Coffee 

It is said the cheaper the better works for this process i personally found Sainsbury’s “Rich Roast” works rather well, another note when experimenting with this process is not to use decaffeinated coffee as it does not work in this process.

Vitamin C powder otherwise known as ascorbic acid. I had bought dispersible tablets as i was told from an unreliable source that they would work and i’ll clarify when i used them i had no results just a see through film. I was told that the tablets have sugars etc in them that mess with the results.

And washing soda, not to be confused with baking soda as apparently that is a common mistake when using this film, in the uk this particular brand can be found in the big four supermarkets to my knowledge and is normally about £1 a packet. In america i know most people who i’ve seen do this process use the arm and hammer brand. 



I’ve seen a lot of variation to recipe however i’ve found an almost average mesure that pops up consistently across the board which means its easy enough to google developing times.

400 Ml (12 oz) Water between 19-23 degrees

5 tsp Coffee

3 ½ tsp washing soda

½ tsp Vit C

I'd recommend putting the coffee in last as once you have poured in the coffee there is no going back you will not be able to see if everything has disolved. It is also advisable once everything is mixed to leave the developer to settle for five minutes then you are ready to develop. I’ve found dev times for almost every film i’ve needed online however it is not an exact science so you may end up making up your own dev times particularly with colour films as this process isn’t particularly suitable for them however yields interesting results. 

Once you have passed the developing stage pour the developer out, stop, fix and wash as usual.

This process takes time to learn and i havent completely mastered it yet so i’d advice using it on film that you are not desperate on seeing the final result. it is mainly an experiment and practice makes perfect.

If you have any questions feel free to ask box me :)


Plymouth Valiant by Ilya
Via Flickr:
Minolta Autocord Rokkor 75mm f:3.5 Ilford FP4+ @200 Developed in Caffenol-C-L, 50min@20C semi-stand

Today marked my first foray into Caffenol. If you/re not familiar Caffenol is a film developer that is mixed from raw ingredients that can be found in a typical grocery store - vitamin C, washing soda (a.k.a. sodium carbonate) and instant coffee crystals. Though the idea had intrigued me I didn’t think I’d be trying it even though I’m no stranger to mixing photo chemistry from raw ingredients. It’s always good to know that, should I survive a zombie apocalypse I could still source photo chemistry, but there are several things about Caffenol that don’t appeal to me. Despite the easy to find ingredients it’s not necessarily all that cheap to use. This is in part because it doesn’t last long once mixed and so is best used once and poured down the drain. This also makes it fairly inconvenient to use since I have to break out the scale and measure out the ingredients every time I have a film to develop. Not so inconvenient as it turns out though. Unlike many commercial powdered developers everything disolves easily at working temperature so there’s no need to wait hours for it to cool down after being mixed in hot water. What really got me was Caffenol’s reputation for serving up negatives with high resolution and beutiful tones. When I saw my pharmacy had put up vitamin C crystals on the clearance rack I couldn’t resist and bought them out.

It, and the cheap gut-rot instant coffee I bought to go with it (apparently this is the best stuff for film) have been sitting on the shelf for a couple of weeks waiting until I had a roll I was willing to use. The chance came today when I drove my son to a meeting and started noticing the cemetary next to the car park. That it was there was nothing new to me but this was the first time I noticed that mixed among the machine engraved polished marble memorials were those with a bit more history and a lot more character than I’m used to seeing in active cemetaries. Usually if anything around here starts to acquire character by virtue of its history someone quickly notices and either knocks it down or spiffs it up just like new. By virtue of my new habit of carrying a camera in the backpack with me wherever I go no matter what I had the Iskra with me. It was only raining a little (and soon not at all) so rather than run errands for the next hour I stuck around. By the time the boy had emerged I had gone through the half roll in the camera, the extra roll I carry and wishing I’d brought a third.

With two complete rolls I decided to do one up in the Caffenol to start using the Caffenol C recipe. For higher speed film like the Ultrafine Xtreme 400 in Caffenol adding a restrainer such as Potassium Bromide is recommended to keep down the base fog down (in other words keeping the clear parts of the film from going too dark) but I didn’t have anything suitable so I just went without. Well, I can see now where the recommendation comes from - the clear base is quite dark. It’s an even darkness though so it arguably doesn’t hurt the quality of the final image at all. Just to be “safe” though I decided to develop the second roll in my old reliable HC-110. That turned out to be a mistake as it seems to be getting a bit too old. It comes from a bottle that, by my best guestimate, I bought about 20 years ago. Even so I was getting beautiful negatives from it as little as a few months ago but I think it’s finally started to go off. The negatives were too thin. I’d have been better off putting them through the caffenol.