by using a slower shutter speed

5

Pushing Film

Film is typically used at the speed/ISO/sensitivity it was made for. 200, 400, 800, and so on, but you can push film to take pictures in settings it wasn’t necessarily designed to do so in. These shots are all from a roll of expired Fujifilm 200 film, which at 200, is made for direct sunlight and could also be used with a flash. The lower the ISO, the lower the sensitivity of the film, the more light you need to have coming into the camera in order to produce a clear image. Pushing film while shooting (cause it can also be done in development) is setting the camera’s ISO higher than the film in it. 

The above shots were pushed to 400, 400, 800, 3200, and 3200, respectively. Pushing film isn’t the hardest thing in the world but it does call for some quick math if you’re doing it in your head and not using something like a chart or app. For example, the second shot in the subway corridor, I set the camera up at ISO 200, aperture was 2.5 (lowest on the lens) and my shutter speed 1/30th of a second I think but when I checked the light meter it was barely lifting up and indicating the shot would be really underexposed so I moved the ISO to 400 and the needle went a hair above where it previously did. I could’ve pushed to 800 but I wanted the image to be a bit dark. 

If you’re wondering why the last two pictures have a slightly blown out look, I’m not entirely sure, myself. I think it’s a combination of using expired film AND pushing it well beyond what it was designed for along with a slower shutter speed. I think those were both 1/15th of a second. If I made any mistakes in this, feel free to correct me and I’ll edit it but I’ve only shooting film for a little over a month so I’m still very much learning the ropes. 

Tips for Moon Photos

I’ve finally gotten around to writing my tips on taking photos of the moon. I apologise to everyone who I told I’d get something done in the next few days, but it’s actually been months. I was born a procrastinator.

Disclaimer:
  • I’m not a qualified photographer. I’ve learned from very good friends who are professional photographers.
  • Every moon shot is different, and will most likely require very different settings. The same settings rarely achieve the same result because you need to take into account things such as light pollution and atmospheric conditions.
  • This is purely general advice based on what works for me.
Equipment:
  • Tripod
  • Remote shutter release
  • Long zoom lens
  • Ample patience
  • Yummy snacks
Process:

This is where I differ from most and I do so from practical experience and not from technical knowledge, therefore, these may not be professionally correct.

  • Learn to use your camera and lens in manual mode otherwise you will struggle with crisp and clear moon shots.
  • As a beginner, don’t wait for when it’s too dark. It’s easier to get the clouds and a little landscape into your shot around sunset and sunrise. The sun is low, but still bright enough to cancel out some of the reflective light from the moon, thereby allowing you to capture the craters and shadowed surface of the moon more clearly while adding a few extras into the background.
  • Don’t settle on ISO 100, especially in the black of the night – the moon turns out too dark. Play around with the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture (read on) until you’re satisfied with the result.
Settings:

This has been a common question and I feel really bad when I answer with the truth: I can’t give you exact settings because there are too many environmental factors to consider. However, I will share what I know about the exposure triangle and you can apply this to see what works best on the day.

(**Please do your own research here because this is my understanding of the exposure triangle and I might have it totally wrong!**)

Photography is largely based on the inclusion and exclusion of light. Each of these elements of the exposure triangle control the amount of light you want to capture, but each effects the other, therefore, forming a triangle.

  • ISO = the amount of light hitting the sensor. The higher the ISO, the more light you will allow, but your picture will also retain a lot of noise making it appear grainy.

I range from ISO 100 to ISO 640 depending on the time of day and the final image I have in mind. Because I crop/stretch some of my images, I find anything above ISO 640 can appear pixelated, plus I start to lose the shadowed parts of the moon because I’m allowing too much light into my exposure. However, there are always exceptions.

  • Shutter Speed = determines motion blur/sharpness of your image. A slow shutter speed means more motion blur in your photo. A faster shutter speed means a sharper image, however, you will capture less light unless you alter the ISO and/or aperture to compensate.

If you want a moon shot with some of the brighter stars, you can try a slower shutter speed of 1/10th of a second with ISO 640 and sometimes still retain some of the shadowed parts and craters of the moon. It really depends on how clear the sky is. Usually, because our planet and the moon are in movement, I find it better to use a quicker shutter speed (1/125) and higher ISO (maybe ISO 640) to get a quick and sharp shot, and, if I’m lucky, a few stars linger in the picture. 

  • Aperture = determines the depth of field of the image. The aperture is also known as f-stop (for the focal length measured in fractions). A small aperture (high f-stop) brings images in the background and foreground into focus. A large aperture (low f-stop) blurs the background.

The aperture basically acts as a barrier to control the amount of light you allow in through your lens and controls the area of focus in the picture. I enjoy testing it out when I want to include bokeh in my exposure, or when I’m taking portraits of my family/friends where I can blur the background and focus on the person. I don’t alter the aperture for my night shots, but the camera does when I change the shutter speed. 

Most Importantly:

Try not to be disappointed if you don’t get the shots you want. It’s all experience, which counts towards the perfect picture!

I apologise if there are mistakes in this or I’ve missed things out. I hope it makes sense. It can probably be better worded, and if I ever decide to work on it for a little longer than 10 minutes, I’ll be sure to post an improved version! 

Mostly, I genuinely hope this helps those who have been kind enough to praise my work and deluded enough to ask me for tips!

Love, Abi 🌙

shakespeareangeek  asked:

Hello! I love the moon picture that you posted a few minutes ago! Do you use a special lens/camera setting to get good moon pictures? I've tried a few times recently, and they are never crisp or clear. Thank you!

Frogman here. That lovely moon photo you refer to was taken by Bex, but I’ve also taken some moon photos recently.

The moon can be tricky to shoot. Your camera doesn’t really know how to meter or focus on it properly so you will get the best results if you do things manually. I’ll try to run through all the steps to help you get the sharpest picture of the moon possible. 

Metering.

The moon is a bit like photographing a really bright light bulb in a pitch black room. Your camera will want to try and average the pitch blackness with the super brightness and usually you just end up with a giant glowy orb with no detail. 

I suggest switching to manual mode on your camera and dialing in the settings yourself. 

You’ll want to set your ISO to 100 so you get the cleanest image possible. You may have to crop your image quite a bit, and the less noise you have, the better your image will hold up.

All lenses have an aperture sweet spot where you get maximum sharpness. This is usually around f/5.6 to f/8. You can experiment to find that sweet spot for your lens, but f/8 is usually a safe bet.

Now you must dial in your shutter speed. This will take a bit of trial and error. Your camera will use the EV meter in manual mode to give you a suggestion of what “properly exposed” should be. It looks something like this. 

Since the moon is so bright, you will probably need to expose 1 or 2 stops below dead center. I recommend doing a series of shots for safety. Take shots at -3, -2, -1 and 0 and then pick the best exposure on your computer later on. 

Use a long lens. 

If you want to get good detail of the craters on the moon, I recommend at least a 300mm lens. The moon will still be rather small in your frame, but you can crop your picture and still get some nice results. 

Use a tripod and a shutter remote.

Eliminate any chance of camera shake. You will be using a long lens and slower shutter speeds. Also keep in mind that the moon actually moves pretty quick through the sky, so you will need to adjust your framing frequently as you take pictures. 

Focus on infinity and use live view.

Near the manual focus ring of your lens will be a display of distances. There should be a symbol for infinity. You’ll want to turn the ring until it reaches that symbol. On many lenses you then have to turn the ring back a tiny bit so it hits the start of that little L shape. 

I recommend turning on your camera’s live view function to aid you. Magnify the display as much as possible and check your focus as you try to hone in on infinity. 

Practice and take tons of pictures. 

The best way to make sure you get good images of the moon is to hedge your bets. Try underexposing by many different stops. Experiment with different apertures. Unfocus and refocus frequently. Then when you get the images on the computer you can see what works best with your particular camera and lens. You will figure out all the quirks and be able to continually improve as you try, try again. 

Shoot RAW.

Because the moon is so tricky to shoot and it is easy to miss proper exposure, you’ll want as much editing latitude as possible. Shooting in RAW will allow you to bring up shadows, bring down highlights, sharpen details, and increase contrast with the least amount of image degradation. 

Don’t be afraid to crop.

Your moon will probably be small. However, if you have a high megapixel camera and you use all the tips above, you should be able to do a fairly tight crop and still get a great final photo.

TL;DR:

  • Lens ~300mm or longer.
  • Use a tripod.
  • Use a shutter remote.
  • Set camera to manual mode.
  • ISO 100.
  • Aperture f/8.
  • Shutter speed is adjusted as needed to get proper exposure.
  • Take multiple exposures at -3, -2, -1, and 0 EV. 
  • Focus to infinity.
  • Use live view and magnify to check focus. 
  • Shoot RAW.
  • Crop as needed. 

Photo by Froggie

You can find me here: [tumblr wishlist]

anonymous asked:

How did you do that picture that's your icon now? Did you use an app?

what i did was I took a picture on my camera of me looking normal and then i took a picture with a slower shutter speed while i was shaking my head and then i combined the pictures together on photoshop so everything looks clear except my face

“Flowers & Basket” by Milmon F Harrison

Wanted to use this bouquet of flowers once more before throwing them out finally. Still exploring still life photography and working with lighting, slower shutter speeds, etc.

These roses are/were white, but I was struck by how the ambient light, and the light bouncing off the basket(?) gave them a creamy, off-white, slightly warmer tone.

Think I’ll hold on to them a little longer.

Day 88 - Jameson

I wanted to try out more product photography today. The set up for this was simple. I have a desk lamp behind the glass pointed at the wall. The glass and wall were about a metre apart. I then had the camera on a tripod and used a slower shutter speed than needed. I really like the effect of the light gradient on the wall behind. I would like to keep up this style of photography.

Shot details: Nikon D40, 50mm, f/8, 1/4s, ISO 200, -0.7EV, Incandescent WB. Processed in Photoshop CC.

FUN FACT: This is the eighth drink related photo I have taken for this project. Happening on the 88th day. Nice little coincidence.