Could you elaborate on the impulse control? I will begin using less exciting treats. Also I've been using the 300-peck method for longer stays. Thank you!
For impulse control, I like to start with a voluntary leave-it. I have an old tutorial of how I used to teach it here: http://doggydayjob.tumblr.com/post/31936974089/how-to-teach-leave-itoff
Now I teach it through errorless learning. To do that, hold a handful of treats out of your dog’s reach and feed them such a high rate of reinforcement that they don’t think to approach your handful of treats. Gradually increase the time between treats until your dog can patiently wait 5 seconds between treats without trying to get the food in your other hand. Once you get that far, slightly lower your distraction hand and feed your dog a high rate of reinforcement again. Gradually increase the time between treats, then lower your distraction hand again, and repeat.
Once your dog is good with food in your hand, you can work with food on the floor outside your dog’s leash range. Same idea as above: A high rate of reinforcement with the distraction treat far away. Gradually decrease the rate of reinforcement, then decrease the distance.
You can also do these exercises with toys. Toys are much harder because they bring the dog’s arousal level up. Incorporating play into obedience training (and obedience training into play) will also help with this. The idea behind using play with excitable dogs is to teach them to think while aroused. Start by keeping the play very short and use treats (low value treats in your case!) to reward your dog for thinking through arousal. (For example, you may do six behaviours of sit, down, and stand; and you would reward five of them with food and one with just an instant of toy play.) Remember that the longer your dog plays while being rewarded, the higher their arousal level will become. Start with just an instant of play and gradually build up duration as your dog becomes better able to switch from playing to thinking.