boning channels

2

Here’s a #throwbackThursday to my Satine cosplay. Moulin Rouge is full of inspiration! 

The corset is based on the 1880s corset in Norah Waugh’s book Corsets and Crinolines, and I draped the shoulder portions onto a mockup. The skirt is a three-quarter circle skirt with most of it pleated into the back, so that the front is straight and slim but the back is full and flowing. The butterfly bow in the back has horsehair braid in the seams to give it some body. The wig is Broadway by Sepia in 130. 


This is quite old now - from 2012! I learned a lot with this costume, particularly the corset. The neckline edge stretched out quite a bit on the bias, which I later stabilised with twill tape, but it’s a messy fix. My boning channels were also pretty bulky, since I made them with flat felled seams - I definitely wouldn’t do this again with such a substantial duchess satin for my fashion fabric, especially not on those curvy overbust seams. And I’d definitely do a modesty panel!


Photo credit George Germaine.

Bones - 12x09 - The Steel in the Wheels - Press Release

BONES
Air Date: Tuesday, March 07, 2017
Time Slot: 9:01 PM-10:00 PM EST on FOX
Episode Title: (BON-1209) “The Final Chapter: The Steel in the Wheels”

[NOTE: The following article is a press release issued by the aforementioned network and/or company. Any errors, typos, etc. are attributed to the original author. The release is reproduced solely for the dissemination of the enclosed information.]

TUESDAY, MARCH 7

[EDITOR’S NOTE: Audio descriptions for tonight’s episodes of NEW GIRL, THE MICK and BONES are available on the SAP Audio Channel.]

–“BONES” - (9:01-10:00 PM ET/PT) CC-AD-HDTV 720p-Dolby Digital 5.1 -

THE TEAM GOES UNDERCOVER ON AN ALL-NEW “BONES” TUESDAY, MARCH 7, ON FOX

Fan-Favorite Guest Star Stephen Fry (“The Great Indoors”) Returns!

When a young man dies in a horrendous hay baler accident, Booth, Brennan and Aubrey slap on trashy disguises and go undercover at a rowdy demolition derby competition to investigate the case. Meanwhile, Dr. Gordon Wyatt (guest star Stephen Fry) returns and assists Hodgins and Cam when the ongoing Gormogon case hits a dead end in the all-new “The Final Chapter: The Steel in the Wheels” episode of BONES airing Tuesday, March 7 (9:01-10:00 PM ET/PT) on FOX. (BON-1209) (TV-14 L, V)

Cast: Emily Deschanel as Dr. Temperance Brennan; David Boreanaz as FBI Special Agent Seeley Booth; TJ Thyne as Dr. Jack Hodgins; Michaela Conlin as Angela Montenegro; Tamara Taylor as Dr. Camille “Cam” Saroyan; John Boyd as FBI Special Agent James Aubrey

Guest Cast: Stephen Fry as Dr. Gordon Wyatt, Ignacio Serricchio as Rodolfo Fuentes, Christina Carlisi as Agnes Doyle, John Philbin as Ned Dixon, Erin Conner as Charlene Fisher, Joe Ochman as Barry McGee, Jaime Bergman as Dawn Skaggs, Ronnie Gene Blevins as Ray Kimball, Chris Ferraro as Carmageddon, Peter Joseph Ferraro as Mad Dog.

10 musings in costume:

1. If you can hail a taxi in full Glinda, you can hail a taxi at any time.

2. To the dudes drinking Capt Morgan straight out of the bottle and not even trying to hide it, who made fun of me on the street - screw you…  Also, I hope you get arrested because you’re not even smart enough to put it in a brown bag.  Come on. You can make fun of me all you want but how sad is your Saturday when all you have to do is walk the streets of NYC and you can’t even afford to drink in a bar.  Or top shelf.  XD  Or be smart enough to at least hide it… o_O Had you been nice I’d have totally done the Captain pose with you in princess costume and had a fun old time.  I am the tebowing Star Princess after all.

3. I had a Giselle moment running through NYC because my friend forgot her Wicked tickets and ran back to the hotel to get them.  She blended in with the night; I – well, – I stuck out like a sore thumb running three NYC blocks behind her. :P

4. Because of point 3 I was immensely grateful I wore tennis shoes under my dress.  But so sad I didn’t get a photo of them …

5. Close your boning channels.  Close your boning channels.  CLOSE YOUR BONING CHANNELS.  Because I was rushing TWO costumes for Broadwaycon certain things had to be skipped.  One of them was closing my boning channels.  After being in full corset & boned bodice, where the boning wasn’t closed, I had welts under my arms from all the boning that poked me all day.  Not fun!

6. Kids can be charming - sometimes.  One highlight of my trip is when a little boy came up to me in the Javits Center (non-BroadwayCon-area) and asked me to grant him a wish.  He said he wanted to be rich (!!!!!) with lots of enthusiastic exclamation points.  I told him I did too.  And that I hoped it came true for both of us.  Maybe a true fairy would’ve said some crap like “but we’re already rich in health and love and blah blah blah”.  I feel your pain kid, and I understand XD

7. You can spend hours and hours and hours on a retractable, collapsible wand that’s supposed to be super convenient to carry around, and it’ll break the SECOND YOU ENTER THE CON.

8. Don’t expect BroadwayCon techies to have, or even know, what a leatherman is.  Or have pliers, knives, or gaff tape.  Techies, I’m a little disappointed.  Or maybe they were just baffled Glinda the Good was asking for a leatherman to fix her wand?  (like what the…? how the?)

9. People can be mean but people can also be really nice.  I met so many nice people at the con.  I just love that someone can sit down next to me and chat about costumes and theatre like we’ve known each other forever.  I’m awkward and untrustworthy and don’t fit in ever, so things like this mean a lot to me. It was great going to my first con and being around so many kind people.

10. We had a line at Wicked.  We. had a LINE.  I laughed so hard.  We were taking pictures in the Wicked lobby, random people were coming up to us, and it was hectic because it was 10 minutes to curtain.  Someone jumped in and tried to get a photo and the people in front of us were like, “EXCUSE ME we were in LINE!” – and we looked at eachother and laughed and we were like, “we have a LINE? people are LINING UP to take photos with us?”

The kicker: the next day at the Disney Store in Times Square, someone stopped my friend (who was wearing a Wicked hoodie) in the bathroom and apparently they were chatting about how her kids got to meet Glinda and Elphie last night at Wicked – and my friend’s like, hey, that was us!  Ahahahaha.  Small world, even in NYC….

BONUS:

11. Take your own photos – I didn’t take any photos and thought there’d be a million photos of me out there!  I can barely find any :( I hope more surface soon.  Maybe.  I might NOT want to see what I looked like.  Eeep.

fukinweeeb  asked:

Hi I've got a question about corsets, I'm going to be making Odett Widowmaker and I'm kind of at a loss for how corsets work. Like the making of them is extremely confusing to me. I bought a book on it and am debating weather or not to get a subscription to foundations reviled. Do you have any tutorials or advice on where to start? Especially with boning channels?

Hello!
Here’s a tutorial on corset making that includes steps on the boning channels:

http://cowbuttcrunchies.tumblr.com/post/109261742487/corsets-in-cosplay-are-awesome-so-we-wanted-to

This also includes a pattern recommendation!

Also, @cosplaytutorial has a great list of corset information here:

http://www.cosplaytutorial.com/list/sewingclothing.php

I’ve actually done that costume too, and I used the McCall’s Yaya Han corset pattern. With a little customization, it worked great for me, but between all the customization and simply the nature of the pattern, it is a bit challenging. If you want to check that out too, here’s a link!:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019IP2ZPU/ref=asc_df_B019IP2ZPU5037779/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B019IP2ZPU&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193987317966&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7868602720344625977&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011798&hvtargid=pla-307615024266

I hope this helps!

- Mod Sky

8

2016 bones challengeday 3: first episode you watched, and when (august 2010)
“My name is Brennan. I’m Dr….. I’m Dr. Temperance Brennan. I work at the Jeffersonian Institution. I’m a Forensic Anthropologist. I specialize in identifying….. in identifying people when nobody knows who they are. My father was a science teacher. My mother was a bookkeeper. My brother….. I have a brother. I’m Dr. Temperance Brennan.”

We cannot say thank you enough. Everyone has been super supportive this past week, the response was such an awesome surprise. We are so happy that so many people are interested in making Ninepoint happen!

We’ll be working on livestreams all through the campaign, designing characters and much more for Ninepoint. If you’re interested, you can find those on our Youtube channel.

- Bones & Ursula

Check out the Kickstarter Campaign here!

Writing combat: thoughts on arrows

I caught myself writing about the ‘sharp whistle’ that pierced the air as one of my characters shot an arrow from a bow. This is a very tropey thing in movies, but I wondered how realistic it was.

A quick Google told me: not at all unless your arrow has something wrong with it, or if you designed it to fire that way. Mongolians during the time of Genghis Khan had recurve bows and sometimes used arrows, during hunting, that were made with a bone arrowhead with air channels carved into it. This type of arrowhead would have produced a whistling sound.

So a standard steel arrowhead produced for military use (in my fantasy society) wouldn’t whistle. But a bone one might. And archers in my fantasy society might favour a whistling arrowhead because, y’know, it has the intimidation factor - death whistling through the air! Sproink!

Decisions, decisions. Good thing this draft isn’t yet final.

(Any thoughts, @picadreams?)

2

A new project! This one is actually inspired by my orchids. As in the colors, shapes, and overall delicate appearance.

 I hadn’t planned on this bodice being sheer but I forgot to buy silk taffeta for lining and I kind of love how it looks. There will be a draped collar overtop that is several inches wide, so it isn’t like the whole bodice will be sheer on this finished piece or anything! 

5

Here’s a helpful cosplay tip/tutorial for anyone planning on working with steel boning. I’m currently using white steel for my Farnese pannier and spiral steel for my Farnese corset and a friend suggested I use electrical heat shrink tubing to seal the cut ends of the boning. Websites that sell boning will offer boning tips or plasti-dip to seal the ends, but tips are a pain and plasti-dip can be messy and toxic. I found that heat shrink tubing works super quickly and is incredibly inexpensive.

Step 1) purchase tubing in a diameter that will fit your boning.
Step 2) cut a piece of tubing to cover the end of you boning and leave some extra for trimming.
Step 3) heat the tubing until it conforms to the shape of the boning. I used a heat gun and it went super fast, but I’ve also heard of people using candle flames and lighters.
Step 4) trim the excess tubing so that just a tiny amount extends past the boning.
Step 5) insert your boning into your boning channel and move on to your next piece of boning.

5

These pictures show the last corset I made. It is an 18th century corset made out with cotton coutil and wood boning, seams are covered by a pink silk ribbon, most of the parts are hand-sewed, as well as eyelets and finishing tapes.

The pattern is very easy, in fact the shape is given by the position of the boning channels. Those who are not interested in corsetry and who have a growing interest at the moment, can easily get some information from movies and museum expositions.

Please go and take a look to my website—> aboutcorsets.blogspot.com 

5

I drafted the bodice pattern myself to achieve the unusual low back and pointed front. It is made from 2 layers of muslin and 1 layer of bridal satin from Joanns. I pleated AND ruffled 3 yards of pink organza to make the puffy pink part. The bodice has 10 channels of boning. The skirt overlay was made from a basic circle skirt pattern. Overall I am pretty pleased with how the bodice turned out :D Especially since I got the bodice right on the first try. Thanks for reading!

5

Wrought Plastic Corset

Once again, I decided about a month before the deadline to enter the Foundations Revealed competition. Because inspiration always strikes at the last possible minute.

I opted to use the theme “Intersection of Light, Black and White” rather than the historical pattern. I’ve been meaning to play with thermoplastic corsets for a long time now but had never had quite the right project as an excuse or the funds available. I finally gave in, especially once I read the prompt and it mentioned wrought iron as a potential source of inspiration. Wrought iron is a serious weakness of mine, and I’ve always found it incredibly beautiful and inspirational, so I decided to run with that in combination with a clear thermoplastic.

I wanted to play with how the transparency of the base corset would combine with the decoration and the wearer’s skin tone. The fact that with the plastic I can get a completely transparent result, in comparison to the more standard corsetry mesh that not only has color but also needs boning channels, means greater influence of the wearer on the appearance of the actual garment, which I’m excited to explore with different models. In the case of a belted overlayer, it creates the illusion that just the decoration is doing the cinching, which is a really cool effect when viewed from a distance. 

I took the opportunity to also play with my new corsetry form! I draped a pattern in paper, since it would act more like the final product than muslin would, and created the base corset out of clear thermoplastic.

The outer layer is a separate piece, made of another thermoplastic, wonderflex. I wanted the ability to be versatile, and the clear thermoplastic doesn’t have the self-adhering qualities of other thermoplastics, so attachment would have been difficult to hide given the transparency of the base layer. I’ve also made a couple of other outer layers that can be switched out, so it can be used for very different looks.

I really loved working with this material, and I can’t wait to explore it more! I’m already in process for a mini collection with it that’s going to play even more with the fun properties of the material. 

(Bottom picture credits: Model @hjsteele, Photographer @eye-ofa-panda)

Apparently I need to edit this post so that the masses understand that I am listing details of the movie's dress and inaccuracies of tutorials that claim absolute accuracy.

I need to rant about Rapunzel costumes, so I really hope that I don’t offend anyone. 

Part of it is pet peeves, part is lack of knowledge concerning fabric in the masses, and part is misinterpretation of the exact gorgeous detail of the movie’s dress. 

I’ll start with the skirt.
“Rapunzel’s skirt is so fake in the movie!” ….. Insert eye roll. 

Oh sweet heart. Her skirt is clearly made of silk charmuese satin, which is why the polyester users of today do not understand that her skirt in the movie is, in fact, intensely realistic and very nearly perfect in point of fact. This comes from someone who actually uses this apparently mythological fabric. It has a beautiful drape and gorgeous flow and it is absolutely perfect. 
The skirt that I made from silk charmuese flows EXACTLY like Rapunzel’s. 

“Her skirt is two pieces!“ 

Well, yes it is that. A lavender skirt and a creamy white lining. It DOES NOT have either a patterned underskirt or a folded front panel as the park skirt does. It is perfectly clear in the movie when the skirt moves or is pulled or when it is just shown close up that the center front is a CONTRAST panel sewn into the rest of the skirt. It has embroidery stitches crossed ‘accidentally’ on to it here and there.


"You can just use the embroidery pattern from the skirt of the dolls!" 

Oh no. Please, no. While the park dolls are close, and the latest versions of the Rapunzel dolls have had slightly more accurate skirts, I have personally never seen one that was spot on correct. They never get the back ‘pattern joiner’ right. Not to say that there hasn’t been one, but if there is I’ve never seen a photographic evidence. On the other hand, the contrast panel is sewn correctly into most of these doll’s skirts just as it should be. 
Go figure. 
Last note on the skirts is that the lace is SEWN TO THE LINING AND NOT DIRECTLY TO THE SKIRT!!! 
I just think that that needs to be clear. 

Alright, I’m moving on to the bodice now and I just want to call out the issue of the jacquard/tapestry/brocade (I personally think that it’s jacquard because of how it changes as the light hits it. Tapestry isn’t usually that fine and brocade actually involves gold fillament, but since I’ve seen it called all of those I include them all.) 

Disney doesn’t ever get it right on their merchandise. Ever. And the 'print’ that they use is upside down. The floral pattern is clear during several parts of the movie, but the one constantly used - even on the flocked (polyester) shantung of the face character’s dress - is not right. 

[ Note that skirt panel and bodice fabric have the same floral pattern, but we all knew that ;) ]

1)There is a vine that should be broken off into two near the top of the general motif (I consider the main flower to be the top) that is always joined on merchandise, etc. 

2) Merchandise/face character : On the lower left side of the flower is a spread of three leaves and a lonely leaf. But going by the movie, the lonely leaf should be slightly lower and the spread of leaves/petals should be FIVE. 

3) On the lower right side (merchant/park) is a scroll with a five-pointed blossom above it. The points are rounded in the movie. 
Now to the actual bodice construction.
The bodice is (clearly) in two pieces. 

A) The top is a light, probably lined, soft, not boned (though it has top stitching consistent with boning channels) You clearly see it fold up and over more than once and it moves freely over the under corset.
The sleeves are attached to this top piece and have two parts: the upper part is eased with pink ribbon striping top stitched with lavender onto a satin of a slightly different hue than the bodice. 
The bottom of the sleeve is best done in a silk chiffon georgette
(They even payed enough attention in the movie to where it has that exact texture, folks) it stretches just enough to allow for ease of wear, is comfortable, and era appropriate!
Sweet heart neckline, of course!
It has a five piece 'cup’ at the bust line, seperately sewn shoulder pieces, and a lace-up front with four holes (on each side) at the bust and then seven below it, totaling at eleven hand-sewn eyelets (per side) with the four at the top closer together than seven on the lower bodice. 
This 'top’ bodice has 22 pieces (not counting sleeves) to be sewn together. 
The under corset is a slightly grey lavender (I favor taffeta for it) that has both the white neckline lace and the pink waistline lace sewn into it. It buttons down the back (it is kind of hellish to button) and six of the small buttons should be visible through the open back of the over blouse. Though you can cheat, there are instances where you can clearly see the buttons under her bodice (in the back) when she is moving. 

I sucked it up and went for authenticity ;) 

Oh, and before you leap on my back and start tearing my hair out by the roots, I shall reiterate (if I somehow did not make it clear before) that I have made Rapunzel’s dress down to the last detail, complete with hand embroidery (sleeves and skirt) and hand paint like many people do for the center panel and the bodice. 
Ask me. I’m too ready to show pictures and offer advice, tips - encouragement. This is a hard cosplay because of all the accurate detailing of 3D cgi!
Well, let’s hope that this uber long post has been informative and not offensive to anyone. Maybe if I’m lucky I helped someone’s cosplay along! One can only hope ;) 

I had (have) picture references, but they would not copy onto my post, for which I am very sorry