big lapel

anonymous asked:

do you have any idea what a robespierre waistcoat is? i'm always confused when i read the passage where r wears one and since youre a fashion blog i figured you might know

ok first things first take everything I say with a grain of salt – I’m not a fashion historian by any means, and nearly all of what I say is just based on observation. if anyone who knows more about this than I do wants to chime in, please do!

that being said, while it’s difficult to pin down the exact specifications of a robespierre waistcoat, we can get a pretty good idea.

I think to understand what they were, we should look at what they weren’t first. if we take a look at waistcoats from directly before the revolution, we notice some very prominent patterns:


(that last one a rare less aristocratic example, to round this post out a little)

they all have relatively small or no collars, and most importantly, never any lapels.

the waistcoats robespierre brought into fashion during the revolution were the polar opposite: above all, really really huge lapels (big enough to flap over the lapels of the coat, no less!), as well as more frequently having higher collars (this being a trend, but not the definitive rule.)


^ brought to you by the style icon himself.

this is the most obvious french example I’ve found from the revolution era:


you can see a pretty clear difference between these and the older ones. them both being yellow is just a coincidence, they could come in any color or pattern.

some other examples from outside the exact country and era:


^ british, revolution era



^ the same


^ american, mid 19th century


and my personal favorites, the first owned by an american in the first quarter of the 19th century, presumably sympathetic to the old french republic:



and finnish, from 1800-1829:


I have no idea why the MET didn’t fold down the lapels on the first one, but if you look closely you can see impressions of where they were, and the shape of the unfolded lapels in general should give you an idea. these ones are special first of all because they’re cut to the natural waist, as waistcoats were throughout the 1830s as well; secondly because they’re the revolutionary scarlet color that grantaire wore, and that so terrified good, respectable folk – the horror of one passerby at bahorel’s red waistcoat comes to mind.

those were the most prominent physical examples I could find, but there’s also this 1830s fashion plate bearing some suitably enormous lapels:


these from ellie valsin’s fantastic post on waistcoats. note that after the revolution ended, and lapels became standard on waistcoats, to get your republican point across your lapels would probably have to be even bigger, hence grands airs grantaire making a show of pressing down his lapels.

anyhow, that’s the sum total of all I have to say. again: I have not genuinely studied this, this is just what I’ve seen. if anyone has any corrections or additions, please add them!

also I still can’t believe that person who said “Aristocracy thinks that Kirin Jindosh is one of them because he looks like them.” I mean have you even seen this guy?

What do these looks have in common except for high white collar? The nobles wear long-ish coats with big lapels and pantaloons to show off their ankles, everything is made of black or dark blue expensive cloth. Jindosh wears a scruffy brown leather jacket and the cheapest straight pants. We only ever see brown colors and leather jackets on low class people. And no noble would be caught dead in these worn-out laced shoes. Just because Jindosh put a gift-wrapping ribbon around his neck and manages to work this whole mess into a cohesive Look™ doesn’t mean that he would be read as aristocratic by any noble in their right mind. 

Like, the point of it is that Jindosh lowkey despises nobles, because he believes that intellect and capability should determine people’s worth and not the place of birth, but he is forced to interact with them bc he needs their money. So he passively-aggressively threatens that his robots will kill them if they are not here in precise time and then makes them wait for several HOURS for no real reason, knowing perfectly well that they’re here. And then he shows up, obnoxiously looking like a commoner mechanic and vapes out of his fucking thumb into their faces.

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“Hold Your Hounds”
Even when you can’t be holding your hounds at all times of the day (I know you wish you could) - this pin will make sure you always feel like you are holding your hounds at all times of the day!! This pin is for any animal lover, especially those hound huggers out there.
Dedicated to greyhounds and other dogs out in the world who don’t have anyone to hold them. *squeezes pet*


• 47.5mm H x 32.3mm W - hard enamel pin
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‌• Comes with individual backer card

~Designed with love by Sophie McPike~


ETSY STORE HERE

montydysquith-navarro  asked:

What are your thoughts on the newly-released photo of the costumes for Frozen? ew(.)com/theater/2017/08/17/frozen-musical-first-look/

At first glance it’s the spitting image of the animated movie. Iconic, grand, playful, awesome, and garments that will be copied to death.

Looking closer they have departed quite a bit from the very Norwegian and Scandinavian influence of the animated clothes. They’ve become more generic 19th century ball wear. And that kinda made me sad. Cause I liked the many hints of the Norwegian tour the Disney team did and research appearing in all kinds of details in the movie.

Take Anna’s green coronation dress. It has the bodice and silhouette of any 19th century ballgown. And yet the flowers on bodice front is typical for embroidery on Norwegian folk costumes, and the exact colours/details seems to be inspired by the “Nordlandsbunad” (left), a folk costume from the very north of Norway:

Fans of “Frozen” will immediately recognize the movie dress on Broadway. But looking closer, the bodice is much changed, to become a pointed and corseted 1860s ballgown bodice, with ditto fluffy sleeves, and with more modern looking embroidery down the front. Gone is the folkloric look. You can recognize the folk costume in the movie dress, and you can recognize the movie dress in the Broadway costume - but you can’t really recognize the folk costume in the Broadway dress - if that makes sense.

Same with the main costume worn by Hans. The original inspiration appears to be the folk costume called “Gråtrøye” from Eastern Telemark (left):

The short cut of the jacket, the big lapels, the colours, the ornamental embroidery and the silk scarf in the neck are typical features. In the animated movie they had paired the jacket with long uniform pants and tall boots instead of wool breeches and and buckle shoes, but the overall look is recognizable. For Broadway all folk costume hints are gone; now he wears a gala uniform attire of sorts, in a style reminding of the early 19th century.

So speaking as a Norwegian, I’m sad to see the much-researched Scandinavian details gone from the Broadway production. They added a unique flair, and added a cool folkloric touch. Buuuuut that said, I love that they’ve kept that distinctive “Frozen” look still, and that fans of the movie will get exactly what they fell in love with in the first place. So yeah, I like what I see, but with the potential of loving it even more if they had kept certain details.

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dumpin twitter stuff, separating into arbitrary categories. here’s some MORE mafia AU Luke! GUESS IT’S THE YEAR OF THE SNAKE, FELLAS.

First up, prolly the closest thing I’m gonna get to a nice ref sheet, given that whole… attention span thing. We’ve got two suits he’d pick “accordin’ to [his] impeccable taste” and one example of an ensemble his …new boss picks out. Note the loss of: exaggerated peaked lapels, too-big tie, cloven shoes(!) and baggier fit. He hates it, says it’s got no personality. Guess he doesn’t notice how much less often people snicker when he comes gallumphin’ down the street…

Friend asks, “wouldn’t a white suit not last very long in his line of work?” - friend would be right. Doesn’t help that he’s probably being a bit of a SLOPPY SAM(ael) on purpose so he has an excuse not to wear em. Whoops.

Lessee… since I didn’t include the last two in the posts from last week or so: have some drafts for his aged-up look in this AU. As I said then, he grows more draconic over time. Other than that, I just Had to record that happy face and those …mint and sugarplum colors somewhere!

Best Dressed Men At The 2015 Golden Globes

The Best Best Dressed

Eddie Redmayne. He thought outside of the box with his ensemble. Don’t see too much velvet at these events. It was quite refreshing and not over the top.

Big Lapels

Jamie Dornan

Chris Pratt

Both of these gentlemen took to big lapels for the big night. And they looked great. Remember, big lapels call for an equally big bow tie. 

Shawl Lapels

Jake Gyllenhaal

John Legend

Matt Bomer

These three men kept it classy with shawl lapels, which are perfect for formal events. Additionally, Matt really stands…in a good way. In a sea of black, Matt opted for midnight blue, which definitely garners attention.

Lace Up

When we saw sneakers on the Chanel runway we heaved a huge sigh of relief and gladly packed away the heels that gave us blisters and instead turned to our trusty old sneakers to take us places. Now a season or two later we can’t let go of these unbelievably comfortable trend so today I am suggesting amazing ways to wear different sneakers for different occasions. They’re just like heels, only more comfortable - I feel like that should be my new motto.

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The Proportions of Elegance: Collars & Lapels



Proportions of elegance: Collars & Lapels
The jacket lapel has an unsung charm. Tha fashion system, with some infrequent exception, wants it slim, narrow, almost invisible. The tailoring, fortunately, makes wide, masculine, beautiful lapels, that are suitable for the chest and the personality of the customer. A tailor once said: “The more the lapel is wide, the more the jacket will look slim”, meaning the optical effect of a big lapel covering the front of the jacket.  Normally, the width should be proportioned to the stature of the person, so ten, eleven or twelve centimeters are quite common in tailors’ shops; on the other hand, ready to wear jackets feature lapels eight, seven and sometimes even six centimeters wide. The peak lapel, typical of the double-breasted jacket, is more formal, but can also give a stylish flair to a serious single-breasted business suit. Apart from being notched, shawl or peak, the sartorial lapel is fascinating also because it is designed by hand on the papermodel. The result is a different “belly” and tip for every jacket. Some tailors make it more heavy, putting canvas, horse hair and camel hair inside, according to the tailoring tradition in Milan; some others, as the Neapolitans, make it lighter, with just a layer of a 150 gr canvas; finally, some others don’t even use canvas for their lapels, preferring the cotton. A tip: if you want to know whether a lapel is sartorial or not, look underneath it. You will find a cloud of stitches blocking the fabric on the canvas. Pure poetry! Moreover, another distinctive feature of the jacket is the collar. Neapolitan tailors make it very high, whereas nordic schools are more penchant to make it low. It is a very delicate area of the jacket: it is likely that an expert will look at it in order to see if the jacket fits well or not. In the first article we talked about rules of elegance. Well, a unanimously approved rule is that the collar of the jacket should always follow the shirt collar, when the jacket is buttoned, despite the movements. These and other details make the difference between a “just expensive” jacket and a “well done” one.

                                         ____________________

Le proporzioni dell’eleganza: Baveri e Colli Il bavero della giacca ha un fascino incompreso. La moda, con qualche rara eccezione, lo vuole piccolo, stretto, quasi infinitesimale. La sartoria, per fortuna, lo fa largo, bello, adeguato al torace e alla personalità di chi lo indossa. Una volta un sarto disse: “Più il bavero è largo, più la giacca sembrerà stretta in vita”. Si riferiva all’effetto ottico per cui un bavero grande copre di più il davanti della giacca, facendolo sembrare più piccolo. Di norma, la sua larghezza dovrebbe essere proporzionata alla statura della persona. Dieci, undici o dodici sono i centimetri preferiti in sartoria, contro gli otto, i sette e a volte anche sei centimentri delle giacche di confezione. Il bavero “a lancia”, tipico del doppiopetto, è più formale, ma può anche dare un tocco di stile ad un semplice abito mono petto. Tradizionale, “a lancia” o “a scialle” che sia, la magia del revers sartoriale sta nel suo disegno a mano sul cartamodello. Il risultato è una “pancia” o una punta ogni volta diverse. C’è chi lo fa più pesante, mettendo all’interno tela, crine di cavallo e pelo cammello, come da tradizione nella sartoria milanese; c’è chi lo fa leggero, come a Napoli, inserendo solo uno strato di tela da 150 grammi; c’è chi, infine, non mette nemeno la tela all’interno, preferendo il cotone. Un consiglio: per avere conferma che un bavero è sartoriale, bisogna guardare al di sotto. Si troverà una nuvola di punti con la funzione di fermare il tessuto sulla tela. Pura poesia! Tratto distintivo della giacca, inoltre, è il collo. La sartoria napoletana lo preferisce alto, mentre le scuole sartoriali nordiche sono più inclini a farlo basso. E’ una zona particolarmente delicata della giacca, perché è lì che l’occhio esperto cade per vedere se il capo ha una buona vestibilità. Nel primo articolo abbiamo parlato di regole non scritte dell’eleganza. Bene, una regola unanimemente approvata in questo campo è sicuramente quella per cui il collo della giacca non deve “scollare”: la giacca, quando è abbottonata, deve stare attaccata al colletto della camicia, specialmente sul dietro, nonostante i movimenti. Questi ed altri dettagli fanno la differenza tra un capo solo “costoso” e un capo “fatto bene”.

Nobody puts Lewis in a corner

A rather… long overdue headcanon/prompt idea I got that I really wanted to work out and iron down. What if… Lewis was gender fluid? Big sweetheart like him, protecting his sisters, loving his family as he does, he’s the responsible big brother! I doubt he’d have much time to explore this kind of inner thinking until he’s living a freer life with his friends in their shared apartment. 

So it gave birth to this..! I hope you enjoy~ 

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Quick drawings for my coworkers and friends on facebook

1) mashing up what my coworker Matt calls my weird visual go-tos. My favorites seem to be skinny dudes, sharp or big noses, smirks, big/messy/curly hair, lapels, and weird bow ties. 


So here is one of the many possible results of that combination. 

His name is Stephven. Both the ph and the v, thanks. His favorite thing to do is tell you how much of a piece of poop you are

2)Spongebob as Thor??? (one of the engineers requested this one)

3)A Christmas Tree on Vacation (QA manager…also the tree is dead)

4)Velociraptor Clown (UI Artist)

5)Mr. Peabody and Sherman, more like the cartoon than the movie

6)A horseshoe crab and a watermelon (???? freakin engineers) 

7) A strawberry the size of a cantaloupe riding an antelope (QA and bestie) 

8) Normal lookin dude with some batwings (Customer Service)

I like how I get a buncha fandom requests when I take doodle requests on tumblr, but when I ask my coworkers, the majority feels like they just tossed two random words together haha