bharata-natyam

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Though founded many years later, Kalakshetra shared similar principles with Santiniketan.  While principally a dance school, a weaving department was established in 1937.  Though based on existing styles, particularly in Kanchipuram, the saris were designed by Rukmini Devi and saris based on the designs were known as Kalakshetra saris.  The uniform in Kalakshetra and associated schools was the pavadai-dhavani (half-sari) or sari and for men pyjama-kurta or dhoti.

See also [X], [X], [X], [X]. Pic source: [X], [X]

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Jaydee Amrita Copperfield from U.k. 
Kali performance at Tribalfest 13

Indian Infusion Bellydance * Bharatanatyam *  Odissi * Tribal Fusion

Photographer: Clint Marien with Cemphotographs

Women who have beautiful limbs, are conversant with the sixty-four arts and crafts (kala), are clever, courteous in behavior, free from female diseases, always bold, free from indolence, inured to hard work, capable of practicing various arts and crafts, skilled in dancing and songs, who excel by their beauty, youthfulness, brilliance and other qualities all other women standing by, are known as female dancers.
—  Natya Shastra, the ideal qualities of a female dancer
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In the South, the practice of dedicating girls to the temple who then performed dances at public functions and at the courts was prevalent with the high culture centered at Thanjavur (the mid 19th century Southern counterpart of Lucknow). 

The costuming for Bharata Natyam was often a simple short sari with the loose end tucked into the waist (pic 1, also see here and here). Or the ankle length sari onto which a fan like piece is belted or stitched that can open up or fold during the dance. In pics 2 and 3 (and here) this looks a lot simpler than what we are used to today (the stitched costume was probably a result of the phase that began with Rukmini Devi). 

Pic sources (X), (X), (X), (X)

PS: The jewellery in pic 2 and 3 is very bridal.