Opera Coat
Callot Soeurs (attributed)

The modified T-shaped construction, side slits, heavy fringes and a contoured frontal closure extending passed the fall line of the fabric was inspired by ethnic costume. The lace technique and its surface pattern were of european origin. The lack of shoulder seams is an unusual element in this coat’s construction. That, along with the custom designed edges at the neckline, frontal aperture and hem and the skillful use of lace may indicate that the couture house responsible for this design was Callot Soeurs.

Jeanne Paquin

Although Paquin was one of the largest couture houses in Paris, well-established and renowned for its elegant style, it was also involved with the avant-garde. Some of Bakst’s costume designs for the Ballets Russes in 1912 were brought from the drawing board to reality by the House of Paquin. The main body of this deshabille was made from one pattern piece with complex draping. The sleeves were inspired by the Japanese kosode but no attempt was made at authentic reproduction.