bert-houbrechts

Raf Simons spring—summer 1999.

Raf Simons organised his show at the “Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie” in Paris on the 3rd of July 1998. The “Kinetic Youth” collection was presented outside, in front of the enormous mirror ball located in La Villette’s Science and Industry museum in Paris. The set refers to the architectural influences in Raf Simons’ life and also to kinetic objects from his youth. Raf Simons used different songs of David Bowie during the whole show. 

The opening part:
The show opened with David Bowie’s “Space Oddity” and the opening part was inspired by the graphic style of “Bauhaus”;
-Clean lines
-Shirts with white/black contrast (different black pleats in the back and black triangle on the front)
-Black wool pants with on the front one, two or three pleats 

The second part:
A group of very young teenagers wearing white turtleneck shirts with an “R” symbol, stitched on the collar. Their pants were all in different colours; red, petrol, light grey, mint, beige mêlée, marine…The models walked together in a group on the bridge, on one side of the runway leading to the mirror ball, then to the central building and to the bridge on the opposite side of the first one.
-Inspiration: School Memories, for example gymnastic lessons in uniform, repetition.
-Music: “Life on Mars”, David Bowie.

The global idea behind the last two show parts was the inspiration of the “Rubik’s cube” object; order and disorder of colours.

The third part:
Classic ton-sur-ton outfits with merino wool knitted pullovers and classic suits. This time the pleated pants are light grey, beige mêlée, brown and marine.

The fourth part:
The most important material in this part was the coloured leather. Raf Simons showed mixed coloured outfits, like trashed cutted rock t-shirts in yellow and green, with large leather jogging pants and sleeveless tunic jackets. Colours brown, grey, light grey, aubergine, mint, green, red……
-Music: “Heroes”, David Bowie.

The song of the final part: ”Another brick in the Wall” from Pink Floyd. The whole group of ca. 60 boys walked quite fast on the runway, but now in the opposite direction. The order becomes a disorder, as in the song: ”we don’t need no education”. Raf Simons feels inspired by youth culture: on one side they are wearing uniforms, but inside they still feel like HEROES, like unique individuals.

Raf Simons autumn—winter 1998—99.

Raf Simons organised his elaborately orchestrated show, called ‘RADIOACTIVITY’ in the Moulin Rouge in Paris on Friday January 23rd 1998. 

The collection was inspired by: Kraftwerk, Laurie Anderson, Vanessa Beecroft, Ceremony the 80’s New Wave and Punk. The show was a continuous alternation of classic and trash.

Make-up and Hair: The head group of the models had dyed black hair and pale faces. The faces of the Kraftwerk part were made up in white, with bright red lips. Four spider-men appeared with a spider-web on their faces.

The silhouettes: Tight, strictly classical, shapes with influences of Punk, New Wave and historical costumes. The coats had a sharp form and shiny zippers. A group of female models appeared wearing slim classic jackets, bodysuits, tights and high heeled shoes and with shiny motorcycle helmets on their heads, all in black.

Colours : Black, Grey and red (Kraftwerk shirts).

Raf Simons spring—summer 1999.

Raf Simons organised his show at the “Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie” in Paris on the 3rd of July 1998.
The “Kinetic Youth” collection was presented outside, in front of the enormous mirror ball located in La Villette’s Science and Industry museum in Paris. The set refers to the architectural influences in Raf Simons’ life and also to kinetic objects from his youth.

Raf Simons used different songs of David Bowie during the whole show. 

The opening part:
The show opened with David Bowie’s “Space Oddity” and the opening part was inspired by the graphic style of “Bauhaus”;
-Clean lines
-Shirts with white/black contrast (different black pleats in the back and black triangle on the front)
-Black wool pants with on the front one, two or three pleats 

The second part:
A group of very young teenagers wearing white turtleneck shirts with an “R” symbol, stitched on the collar. Their pants were all in different colours; red, petrol, light grey, mint, beige mêlée, marine…The models walked together in a group on the bridge, on one side of the runway leading to the mirror ball, then to the central building and to the bridge on the opposite side of the first one.
-Inspiration: School Memories, for example gymnastic lessons in uniform, repetition.
-Music: “Life on Mars”, David Bowie.

The global idea behind the last two show parts was the inspiration of the “Rubik’s cube” object; order and disorder of colours.

The third part:
Classic ton-sur-ton outfits with merino wool knitted pullovers and classic suits. This time the pleated pants are light grey, beige mêlée, brown and marine.

The fourth part:
The most important material in this part was the coloured leather. Raf Simons showed mixed coloured outfits, like trashed cutted rock t-shirts in yellow and green, with large leather jogging pants and sleeveless tunic jackets. Colours brown, grey, light grey, aubergine, mint, green, red……
-Music: “Heroes”, David Bowie.

The song of the final part: ”Another brick in the Wall” from Pink Floyd. 
The whole group of ca. 60 boys walked quite fast on the runway, but now in the opposite direction. The order becomes a disorder, as in the song: ”we don’t need no education”. Raf Simons feels inspired by youth culture: on one side they are wearing uniforms, but inside they still feel like HEROES, like unique individuals.

Veronique Branquinho
Autumn-Winter 1998-1999
photo Bert Houbrechts

based on the double life of Laura Palmer in David Lynch’s Twin Peaks

“the most important thing for me to recognise is that a woman is a very complex person… every woman has a mystery inside her… I like this black side of people. Black minds, black moods, black clothes: I like the word and I like the emotion. That’s what I try to reflect. It’s romance for the doom generation.”

Veronique Branquinho autumn—winter 1998—99.

With her second collection — shown in March 1998 as her first show in Paris — her sense for mystery and a dark romanticism became even more apparent. Pleated knee-long skirts with ‘off-colour’ leggings and turtleneck sweaters were followed by pullovers in rabbit fur and heavy coats and capes with high collars. The models’ faces were pale, their teeth painted black. The atmosphere referred to the double-life of Laura Palmer in David Lynch’s Twin Peaks, to the secrecy of hidden feelings and mysterious nights-out. It seems as if Veronique Branquinho entered the subconscious of girls and women and found a different world. Bringing it to the surface, she superbly blended it with the superficial appearances of 'real life’.  This ambiguity remains a characteristic of her subsequent collections. 

Veronique Branquinho: The most important thing for me to recognise is that a woman is a very complex person… every woman has a mystery inside her. (…) I like this black side of people. Black minds, black moods, black clothes: I like the word and I like the emotion. That’s what I try to reflect. It’s romance for the doom generation.