Final meltdown : Guests enter a fired up teepee sauna to diffuse muscle aches and pains at Bella Coola Heli Sports’ Tweedsmuir Park Lodge.
La détente sous la tente vous tente? Faites une pause au tipi-sauna du Tweedsmuir Park Lodge, au camp de base de Bella Coola Heli Sports.

Photo by / par Grant Harder.

See more from our December 2013 issue.
Découvrez le reste de notre numéro de décembre 2013.


On July 22nd 1793 Alexander Mackenzie completed the first known overland crossing of North America by a European. 

Alexander Mackenzie was born on the Isle of Lewis in 1764. At 10 years old Alexander emigrated to Canada with his family. At 15, he began working for the North West Company.

Alexander Mackenzie at 25 was a fur trader he combined ambition, resolve and arrogance and grew bored with life in a North West Company trading post. Mackenzie became convinced that Cook’s River, in present-day Alaska, could provide a water route from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific. Such a route — the mythical Northwest Passage — would provide a gateway to the vast trading markets of the Orient.

In 1789, Mackenzie’s crew — which included French-Canadian voyagers, his wife and several others — paddled off in a birchbark canoe from Fort Chipewyan in central Canada. Other canoes, navigated by Indian hunters and interpreters, followed behind.

Over 100 days later, however, Mackenzie’s entourage arrived back at the fort with details of another route to the Arctic Ocean, not the elusive Pacific. Though this first trip aided in mapping the northern regions of the continent, Mackenzie remained determined to find the “Western Sea.”

Therefore, on May 9, 1793, Mackenzie, with nine others, packed into a 25-foot canoe at Fort Fork along the Peace River for a second voyage. This time, he succeeded, and announced his arrival on a rock near Bella Coola near the Pacific……..

“Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three.”

Mackenzie became the first European north of Mexico to reach the Pacific ocean on an overland route, beating, as well, the American explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark who arrived at the coast in 1805.

Without the guidance of Indians, Mackenzie would have been unlikely to reach the Western Sea. While crossing the Peace River watershed to the Fraser, they suggested to proceed overland, instead of continuing on the hazardous Fraser River. Mackenzie returned with the westward route mapped 117 days later.


Salmon Jungle by Paul Vecsei
Via Flickr:
One of several salmon streams in the Bella Coola Valley. It’s not every stream that has the right mix of current velocity and substrate size required by spawning salmon. Few fish were using this site while I was there. Nikon D700 FX Nikon AF Zoom-Nikkor 20-35mm f/2.8 D Lens set at 20mm 400 ASA