Back in the 1970s, some American college students were transitioning away from the more polished navy-blazer-oxford-button-down look of the previous decade and getting into something more rugged. The Japanese called it “Heavy Duty,” and while the name was a little tongue-in-cheek, it perfectly described the style. David Marx has a great chapter about it in his new book Ametora:
[Men’s Club columnist] Kobayashi believed that Heavy Duty and Ivy were two sides of the same coin. Both were “systems” of clothing – a wide set of traditional garments worn according to the time, place, and occasion. Inside the Ivy system, students wore blazers to class, duffle coats in the winter, three-button suits to weddings, tuxedos to parties, and school scarves to football games. Inside the Heavy Duty system, men wore LL Bean duck boots in bad weather, mountain boots when hiking, flannel shirts when canoeing, collegiate nylon windbreakers in spring, rugby shirts in fall, and cargo shirts when on the trail. In the introduction to his standalone Heavy Duty Book, Kobayashi wrote: “I call Heavy Duty ‘traditional’ because it’s the outdoor or country part of the trad clothing system. You could even say it’s the outdoor version of Ivy.”
One of my favorite items from that period is the mountain parka, which was often worn with Shetland sweaters, jeans, chinos, and five-pocket cords. Bean boots, hiking boots, sneakers, and penny loafers made up the accompanying footwear. The style was somewhat preppy, but – perhaps because of the mountain parka’s hippie, California roots – it never really made it into the prep canon. (After eight long years and over 1,000 posts, Ivy Style has yet to do a post about the jacket).
Given the mild winter this year, I’ve been relying more on light layering than heavy outerwear. A hooded mountain parka is not only a good way to keep dry on rainy days, but also use as an on-again, off-again layer when temperatures suddenly change. Some of my favorite models this season, from classic designs to things that are slightly more updated:
Traditional: If you’re looking for something traditional, start with Sierra Designs. Their 60/ 40 parka is iconic, although newer versions have changed over the years (mostly in pocket design and becoming a bit shorter). The 60% cotton and 40% nylon blend isn’t as showerproof as Gore-Tex, but it’s reasonably water resistant and much more affordable. Also worth looking into: vintage parkas from old heritage brands such as LL Bean, Woolrich, Eddie Bauer, REI, Holubar, Alpine Designs, and Wilderness Experience (search eBay and Etsy). Many of those will be longer than newer designs, which means they’ll be easier to wear over a tweed sport coat.
Affordable: As usual, shopping on sale or buying vintage/ used is your best bet if you want something good at a low price, but if you want something that’s both affordable and easily had now, check out Penfield’s Kasson and Uniqlo. The Uniqlo one reportedly feels thin, and it’s not very water resistant, but it does the trick if you’re on a budget (maybe beef it up with a weatherproofer). There are a ton of reviews on Reddit.
How to wear the jacket? Pair one with chinos, prickly sweaters, oxford shirts, and Bean boots, like the 1970s students pictured above. For something less preppy, try one of the rugged, workwear versions with a grey sweatshirt, some jeans, and a pair of workboots, or use one of the updated, contemporary models with a textured sweater and some clean sneakers. My own parka, the royal blue Nanamica in the last photo, is pictured with a Stephen Schneider sweater, pair of faded 3sixteen jeans, and some Common Projects b-ball high-tops.
“I still do all my designs by hand and then walk them over to the factories to talk them through with the sewers. Then I keep going back and tweaking until things come out right. Since I incorporate a lot of details into my items, this can take a while and would be a totally different process if I was making things in, for example, China. And of course, the outcome is different than it would be if I was making everything remotely.
Speaking of China, I want to say that I don’t think the quality of our clothes would go down if we produced in China. Actually, Chinese factories can be REALLY good. Sometimes better than American made in certain respects, depending on what you are looking for.
But it’s a totally different process and results in a different aesthetic. So, it depends on what you are looking for.”
Brooklyn-based Battenwear, formerly Batten Sportswear, combines an extensive knowledge of vintage sportswear with a sharp eye for fabric and fit. The result is a collection of fun, high-performance clothing that’s ready for whatever you’ve got planned this weekend.
The Travel Shell 2 Parka and the Retro Day Pack, with felt-padded shoulders and suede-reinforced bottom, are great for meeting up with friends for a morning coffee before catching a train to the Hudson Highlands (the only section of the Appalachian Trail with a designated rail stop).
The Overhang Shorts, with zip pockets and a crotch gusset for a full range of movement, are perfect for urban climbers taking the C train to 110th, where “Worthless Boulder” provides some worthy challenges.
And practitioners of the time-honored outdoor activity of chilling on Central Park’s Great Lawn should check out the Five-Pocket Island Shirt; it combines elements from classic Hawaiian shirts and the Cuban Guayabera shirt, with an added fifth pocket for your metro card and enough cash to buy a hot pretzel.
Battenwear’s designer Shinya Hasegawa is a dedicated east coast surfer himself. The sport and location inspires his designs in both style and spirit. Surfing in New York is tough; it’s a long train ride to the beach, and the water is cold most of the year. But these obstacles give New York surf culture a special flavor—like they say about the bagels, it’s gotta be something in the water.