basting stitch

3

Here are the finished images of the reversible baby blanket i made.

Again, this was made as a fan art/congrats to Michael and Lindsay Jones of Rooster Teeth since they are expecting a baby. They are both awesome people and i wanted to make them something as a ‘thank you’ for BEING awesome and just for kicks.

Unfortunately, while i know it arrived via tracking the package itself, i still don’t know if they opened it or not. :/ Kind of bummed about that. I want to know if they like it/if it arrived safely/if jeremy dooley stole it because it’s about the perfect size for him.

I had never done anything like this before with it being a reversible blanket so. As far as a technical aspect goes, it wasn’t hard per say but it was a bit tricky to line it up for the actually quilting part of it. Thank god for water soluble thread. I used that with the Ruby side to bast stitch that to the batting (mid-weight fleece) and to give myself a sort of grid to line up with for adding on the Achievement Hunter side.

My camera doesn’t pick up the quilting thread itself because i used a transparent thread. It was that or black thread, and i thought that with all the black fabric already in there, it might be too much.

Final size was a 35 inch square, made with 100% cotton for the patchwork and common fleece for the batting. Both logos were appliqued with Heat N Bond lite and reinforced with 100% cotton thread blanket stitching. Total work time was about 22 hours. :D

sen-droit  asked:

Heya! So I'm really bad at calculating how much fabric I need for my projects, especially with skirts I tend to not having enough in the end. Right know I'm planning to make Jane Porter's yellow dress from Tarzan - do you have any tips about finding out how much fabric I need for the skirt? Thank you ♥

Hello there!

Estimating fabric amounts can be a pain sometimes. I suppose it’s better to overestimate than underestimate, but getting it down to just the right amount is sometimes a bit tricky, so there’s a few things you can try.

One thing is look up how much fabric the type of garment you are making typically takes. Here’s a chart with some averages. You can also look up sewing patterns for similar garments, even if you aren’t using a pattern, to see how much fabric those garments take, and use that as your base.

I often find myself drawing sketches of fabric in different widths and estimating the size of the pattern (or measuring it if I already have a pattern drafted) to figure it out, making sure to either draw to scale (graph paper helps) or subtract out the amount of the piece as I go. You can also mark out an area on your floor or a table the width of your fabric and lay out your pieces to make sure that they’ll fit, and measure how long this area ends up being.

I would also recommend doing a mockup prior to sewing to check for fit and practice any techniques you’ll need, which you can then take apart (use basting stitches) and lay out like your actual fabric to do much the same thing. 

It’s very helpful to know your measurements as well. If you know this and start to get a feel for approximately how much fabric something will take (such as a full gathered skirt needing to be 3x your hips, or a pair of pants needing to fit a 32″ inseam), you’ll eventually be able to estimate off the top of your head better…or at least make more accurate sketches and math it out a little better. 

I hope that helps! Good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff

DIY Cross Stitch Shirt

I like finding “new to me” crafting supplies like the “Waste Canvas”, used to make this DIY Cross Stitch Pixel Art Shirt. I can see it being used to create badges, small cross stitch pieces for jewelry etc…

Waste Canvas can be basted onto material, stitched through to the fabric, then removed from the fabric thread by thread.

Find lot more unique Cross Stitch DIYs here.

Find this DIY Cross Stitch Shirt Tutorial from AmytheLamey on Imgur here.

*The photos below show the waste canvas basted and cross stitched to the tee shirt*

dubious-pastry-roll  asked:

hey there! I have a question about leg padding. I currently use the pillow method with individual pillows but I wanna know how to make it all one pillow. like make it wrap around from the knee to the butt. I read your tutorial and you mention it but I didn't know if you had a more detailed description. (sorry if this makes no sense. I'm bad at putting thoughts to words)

This is a good question! When I make wrap-around padding, it is important to have the unpadded costume or wearable mockup on a model (or DTD) and big sheet of paper or similar to start your pattern. It takes some physical manipulation and a little planning to figure out where you want to add it. 

So it is important to note before I get started with this, you will want to use a sewing machine. There is a refining process involved, and a sewing machine will really speed things up. Additionally, I typically make my body patterns first (I draw the image as a side-view on the flat pattern) and then fill them with the pillows afterwards. If you do not wish to work this way, you can make mockup padding to visualize by stuffing an approximate “best guess” shape and then make a more refined pillow pad once your project is tailored. 

I have some advanced pattern techniques that I have been collecting photographs of for a planned future tutorial that will be released to my patreon first when it is ready. But in the mean time, you can also refer to my existing tutorial on body padding here.


Once your model is dressed in your mock-up/test pattern, or if you are retrofitting an existing costume. Pull the fabric throughout a few places on the body to see where it starts to be loose. This is the top perimeter of your new pillow pattern. Continue pulling/tugging to see where the bottom edges of the body’s looseness perimeter is as well. 

Take a big sheet of paper, such as a roll of gift wrap or brown kraft paper, Have your model hold up the piece of paper to their body as you wrap it around them (or pin it in place on a DTD), if you are working solo this is still possible, do it in a mirror. Begin by very generally tracing the top edge of where the pattern starts to be loose, this is what you want to fill with stuffing and wrap around the body. Its best to think about where you want your wrap around pad to end while doing this sketch. I have tried both ending at each knee and wrapping around the butt (Binturong) and also starting at the butt and wrapping around the front (A new wrap-around padding retrofit I did for a refurb client recently).

Trace the new wrap around pad on your paper on both sides. Mark where the center line is. Fold your new paper pattern in half and cut out your pattern in a symmetrical way. When cutting pick the top and bottom extreme traced edges of the pattern, you want it to be bigger for now– you can refine it easily later.

Cut out your new wrap-around pad from a stretchy fabric. If you make it bigger than your pattern this first sew, that is perfectly fine you want to make sure your pillow fits the entire space with no looseness.

Stuff and test fit the big version. Keep in mind how movement and gravity will affect your pad. My goals are always to have my pad look the best when it is as low as possible in the tailored costume so when gravity & movement are in play it looks the best. Otherwise you will need to install loops and a button to hold your pads in place. When trying it on, make a mental note of where it needs to be stuffed more and stuffed less – you can edit your pattern and also sew compartments where things needs to be stuffed firmer or softer.

On the Bintrurong’s pads, the shape looks like lungs. It wraps around the front of the knee and has a thin portion under the wearer’s butt to extend the body. I have a firmer stuffed area along the front of the knee and a softer stuffed area at the side of the leg where the wearer’s knee bends. To make a compartment with less stuffing you can use large basting stitches through both layers in your pad, and maneuver the stuffing around.

If you find you need to make your pad smaller in certain spots, unstuff and sew it smaller to refine the pattern. I typically have to do at least one or two revisions after a test fitting before the pad is “done” – its normal!


Good luck on your quest for wrap-around padding! Happy crafting! I hope these tips I shared help! For more tutorials see my website Matrices.net!

4

Working on an 18th century “undress” costume - aka informal wear. The ensemble will consist of a jacket, skirt, mits, fichu, and a stomacher to tie it all together! 

I started with the stomacher, since I knew it would be the most time consuming part. I drew the design myself, then resized it and mirrored the pattern in photoshop. I traced the design onto interfacing, which was fused onto the back of a loosely woven polyester fabric I had in my stash. 

I used basting stitches to bring the design to the top side of the fabric, then embroidered it by hand. It was all outlined with a split stitch, then filled in with satin stitching. It’s my first embroidery project I’ve finished, and considering that I’m pretty proud! 

The stomacher is backed with a boned cotton/canvas layer for stiffness, and finished with a ruffle across the neckline!

5

Small progress on Balthier. Got one cuff done-happy with how the machine embroidery looks, and I added a little hand couched thread and some tiny bits of metallic leather to make it interesting. At a certain point I just sort of have to make something up that ‘looks right’ since the graphics can only show me so much.

Then cut the vest backs and fronts and laid some guidelines on them with basting stitches. Hopefully this will help me keep the applique all lined up.

toasterlock  asked:

Is there a way to attach text (made out of fabrics) temporarily to leggings? The leggings are expensive and I don't want to have "Fashion Po Po" written across my butt if I wear the leggings out-of-cosplay.

Hello there!

A few ideas come to mind here:

- Safety pin the letters, keeping the pins on the inside. This will be uncomfortable to sit on, but should hold.

- Use a basting adhesive. Be sure to test it in an inconspicuous location first to make sure it properly washes out with no residue. Here’s a sewist who tested the washability of various adhesives. Also make sure it is strong enough to hold throughout the day.

- Magnets, much like the safety pin idea, though again, uncomfortable to sit on.

- Baste stitch the letters down. This is slightly more dangerous for your leggings, and you may need a very trusted friend to help so that the leggings can stay stretched while you sew. Sew them on very carefully by hand, with long stitches on the underside and smaller stitches on the outside, like you are doing a hand blind hem. If you are careful, the leggings are sturdy, and you simply cut the thread from the underside to remove so as to not pull at the legging fabric, this is the most secure and invisible method and shouldn’t cause any damage to the leggings. This is the method that I would use.

- Put the lettering on a larger patch rather than as individual letters, and just tack or pin the corners. This will be a bit more obvious, though.

- If you can get a cheap pair of leggings off of Amazon or ebay before the con, use those and attach the lettering more permanently

I hope that helps! good luck :]

Fabrickind / Q&A Staff

anonymous asked:

Suggestion for your cravat in combat?? I don't know too much about cravats sir, but you could do a couple of basting stitches under the ruffles and pinned to your shirt? You could add a fastener to the back of the neck? I don't know if that would help but yeah. Have a good day corporal

“That’s actually…a good idea.” Levi looks around. “Who the fuck knows how to sew around here?”

The Bellow Basting Machine circa 1945

We love the look of these old machines, solid and industrial. The basting stitch is used for holding the construction of multi layered fabrics together prior to fitting, it’s a long stitch and easy to remove making it essential for well fitted garments.

~Aphrames' Invisible Zipper Tutorial~

Hi kids~!! Today I will be explaining how to put in an invisible zipper into a side seam.  ((Or whatever seam, I mean its into a seam… it doesn’t matter where the seam is… okay I’ll stop…))  Zippers come with these instructions, but sometimes I find it easier to have someone else explain it.

Here is our final outcome~

Things that we will need: Fabric, zipper, pins, iron, needle and thread for hand sewing, sewing machine with a zipper foot and seam ripper.

First step is to pin the right sides of our fabric together.

Next we are going to bast stitch the seam that we are going to put the zipper on closed.  It is important to note that if your zipper is not going to take up the entire seam, you should stitch the ends that are not to open with the zipper like normal.  Only bast stitch the parts of the seam that are going to open with the zipper.

We are then going to iron the basted seam open like we would a  normal seam.

Now, we lay the zipper into the seam and pin it into place.  The key is to keep the teeth of the zipper right on top of the basted seam.

Next, take your needle and thread and hand bast the zipper into place.  I’ve heard some people use masking tape instead but that seems hella weird to me and leaves sticky on my seam… so yeah, no thanks.

Now that the zipper is held into place with our hand stitching, we can remove the pins so that our sewing machine doesn’t run into more problems than we need.

Make sure that your sewing machine is outfitted with a zipper foot.  This way we make sure we can sew as close to the zipper teeth as possible and make it look neat.  ((The foot on the left is the regular foot on my sewing machine, the one on the right is my zipper foot.))

Now it’s time to stitch in our zipper.  Stitch from the top ((right side up)) about ¼ inch away from the seam that was basted ((and that is the teeth of the zipper)).

Remove the hand basting…

… and the basting between the seams.

Now we have our zipper stitched into place~

To finish the top and bottom seams just turn over and stitch like normal.

Remove the X stitch from the back of your Trench, Wool and Peacoats! That’s not for decoration. It’s a basting stitch to hold the back of your coat in place for presentation while it’s on the rack.

Cut that shit!

anonymous asked:

Hi, I'm in need of some help (Google has failed me). I'm sewing a REALLY simple pair of pants (pattern is Kwik Sew 3345). I totally understand the directions, that's not the problem. The problem is that my pieces aren't lining up evenly like they should or as pictured. I triple checked and I cut out everything just fine. Front and back pieces are both the same size so I don't know what I'm doing 'wrong'. If anyone could help, that would be great. Thank you in advance!

When you’re using the pattern, there are usually little notch marks (triangles) that help to make things line up properly. You can cut those into the fabric so when you match the pieces, you’re matching the notches. This is a great guide that explains the function of these markers.

Tip: my mom always suggests cutting them outward rather than inward, because it gives you a bit more room to work with if you need to let it out.

So first, are your triangles / notches matching up? If not, then that is likely the problem! If there are large gaps, make sure to read the pattern directions to see if you’re supposed to baste stitch the area (like with a sleeve) or otherwise make one piece smaller. 

If your notches are lining up, then it might be part of the pattern, and something that gets resolved later. However I have come across patterns that just didn’t make sense lol. It helps to make your first draft in mock-up fabric so if you come across something weird, you can test out making alterations (like cutting off the extra) and not worry about messing up your good fabric. 

Lastly, are you using a fabric that was suggested by the pattern? If it’s for stretch fabric and you’re using a non-stretch fabric – or vice versa – it can cause issues with sizing and matching. Especially with lining up notches!

All the best!

Peggy’s Shirt Pattern Mods

Just a quick tutorial on how I changed up the McCall’s pattern to make my Peggy shirt.


So, this starts with McCalls 6750, which is a tailored misses size (8-24) blouse with wide collar. It’s the closest thing I could find to the shape of Peggy’s blouse, though it does need quite a bit of modification. The main changes are-changing the pleats on the front, making the cuffs a little longer and tighter, changing the shape of the collar slightly, and adding some decorative stitching.

Just a note too-this is only accurate to the front, I did not modify the back to match Peggy’s. Her’s had a square yolk at the shoulders and gathers below, this one has some pleats that give it nice shape but it is not entirely accurate to what she wore.

Keep reading

Craft Store AU
  • I just got this idea and I had to post it 
  • So Tracer, Pharah, and Soldier 76 all work at the craft store 
  • Tracer loves it since it’s really easy work and good pay 
  • Soldier 76 works there because he genuinely cares about crafts and has craft lessons on the weekends
  • Pharah likes it because it’s good money, the uniform looks good on her, and all she has to deal with are sweet old ladies and Pinterest moms 
  • Anyway 
  • Widow loves to go to the craft store because she loves to sew and paint 
  • And one day, Tracer is working at the fabric section, at the main table where she basically cuts and folds fabric 
  • And here comes Widow, toting seven bolts of fabric in her shopping cart and looking like she knows what she’s doing 
  • Tracer is surprised because there are two types of people in the fabric section: people who know what they’re doing, and people who have barely know how to sew a baste stitch. 
  • And Widow is definitely not an old lady or a Pinterest mom 
  • Tracer decides to strike up conversation with Widow while cutting her fabric 
  • “So, what do you need all this fabric for? What are you planning on making?” 
  • “A costume. For Halloween.” 
  • She’s lying through her teeth because she can’t exactly tell the pretty clerk that she’s using it to make a stealth suit for her assassin-for-hire job
  • And Tracer just rolls with it because that’s an acceptable answer
  • “What costume?” 
  • Widow has really dug herself into a hole now
  • “A princess.” 
  • “Ah, that’s definitely a crowd favorite. Here, let me cut this last yard and then I’ll ring it up for you, okay?” 
  • Widow is thankful because even though Tracer is super cute, she can’t exactly tell her about her work. 
  • And Tracer watches her go, feeling like she’s missed an opportunity 
  • But then Widow shows up the next day 
  • With her best friend, Gabriel Reyes
  • Widow gets more fabric, while Reyes stands with her. 
  • “So, are you two a couple?” Tracer asks, mostly because no one is talking and it feels awkward.
  • Widow gets flustered automatically. 
  • Gabriel just stares at her 
  • “Um, Morrison is my boyfriend.” 
  • Tracer blinks because oh. I’ve seen him before. Jack showed me a picture of him last week.
  • But then Gabriel grins 
  • “Amélie isn’t dating anyone, though.” 
  • Widow just slaps his arm because he’s being annoying. Tracer is blushing like crazy
  • When Tracer gives Widow her fabric receipt, she looks really shy. 
  • Widow is confused because why is she suddenly so shy?
  • But then she looked at the receipt 
  • And there was a seven digit number off to the side 
  • And Widow decided that she was definitely going to give that number a call tonight

anonymous asked:

I want to cosplay as Frisk from Undertale. I'm a little unsure of how to do the sweater. I can find a blue sweater, but I'm torn between painting on the stripes or sewing them. What are the pros and cons of using fabric paint vs sewing?

I wrote this as an overall comparison, so some of these points might not apply to Frisk.

Fabric Paint

  • PROS:
    • For the most part, really easy to do. You can stencil it off with tape or freehand it, you can paint it with a brush or with a sponge. No additional knowledge needed.

    • Requires cheap and basic equipment: fabric paint, brush or sponge, tape.

    • 3D fabirc paints can be used to give dimension and create unique effects.

    • May give you a wider range of colour than fabric does, depending on what paints and fabrics are available to you. 

    • Allows you to easily create intricate patterns and designs and it is easy to create repeating designs when using a stencil.

    • Easy to add very small details.

    • Really good for imitating screen prints or designs with organic looking/rough edges.

    • No seam lines

    • Can be done last-minute at the convention, assuming you have space to allow it to dry. (I’ve done this, I know people who have done this, but I don’t recommend it!) 

  • CONS:
    • Causes trouble with stretch fabrics: once you paint, you usually lose the stretch in that area.

    • Changes the texture of the fabric and can make it crunchy, especially if you use a lot of paint

    • If you don’t use fabric paint and/or you don’t set it with heat, it may wash out in the laundry

    • May look low quality and may affect your masquerade score. Especially if the paint bled under your stencil or you had poor line control when free handing.

    • Bleeding (usually when the paint is too watery) can ruin your fabric

    • May peel/flake off in high use areas

    • Takes time to dry, you will have to wait for it to fully dry before you can wear it. 

    • With thin layers of paint, the paint may not have a strong colour and the fabric’s pattern or colour could be visible. Brush strokes may also be visible when covering large areas with a thin layer of paint.

Sewing

  • PROS
    • Very crisp and clean, especially when the seams have been ironed. Looks more professional and may improve your chances in a competition.

    • Can use fabric with the same amount of stretch. Color blocking is GREAT for superhero costumes because paint can prevent a garment from stretching, but by using the same fabric in two colors you won’t have this issue!

    • Can vary the texture by using different fabrics

    • The stitches used in applique can add an extra dimension of detail to your garment

    • You can test it as you go. With pins and baste stitching you can take it apart and adjust it. 

    • The color on the fabric is what you get, since it’s added as a separate piece it won’t mix with the garment’s colour or show brush strokes. 
  • CONS
    • Visible seam lines. These can be strategically placed, but may not be ideal. Sometimes the seams may pucker, giving a poor appearance to the garment.

    • A lot more thinking involved than with paint. Especially when calculating for color blocking. 

    • The fabric or trim used to create your design may be more expensive than a fabric paint.

    • When washed, the colors may bleed and make each other dull. If two different fabrics are used then one may shrink more than another. Remember to pre-wash your fabrics to help reduce the chances of this happening. 

With Frisk, I think the best option is to knit a sweater so that colours are incorporated right into the design! If knitting isn’t an option then either paint or applique/color blocking could work. If you are working with something pre-made then painting is probably the better option and color-blocking would be a nice choice if you’re making it from scratch. Applique probably isn’t the best route here since you’ll have visible stitches which imo doesn’t look right for the design and/or the fabric might not sit flat (example 1 / 2  see the blue line).

Hope this helps!
- Duckie

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Another day off (after a very long week spent training a new manager to take my old place at work so I can move onto a new position myself) and I’m going to try to get as much of the sky quilted as I can.

I think I need to start with the lighthouse and also some support stitching on the sand dune so they don’t distort on me later.

I am (temporarily) kitty-less, so I need to take advantage of their morning nap time and get started!