any breed

the-baron-of-burgle  asked:

I would love to be in veterinary medicine , as the science is my true love, but alas I can not because of low dexterity and low motor skills, so I love reading your blog, it's fascinating to Hear about these things that I couldn't do Thank you. Oh!! And for question tax ( idk if I'm doing this right) if you could have any breed of cat, which would you? Or would you just want ... a cat. I know you love cats and it's cute. Sorry for being a nuisance if I was I just appreciate this blog

You’re welcome. I think the pet owning population benefits from seeing these glimpses into the real vet life, as do future vet students. It’s also a mostly enjoyable hobby.

I’d just keep cats. Purebreds come with too much baggage for my taste, and the humble moggy will always be very dear to my heart.

On balloons.

There’s a post going around that advocates giving clowns only real helium balloons. I’m not going to link to that post, because I don’t want the OP getting any hate. The balloon misconception is SUCH a common one I don’t think any one of us can say we didn’t fall prey to it at one point or another. But, the fact of the matter is, helium balloons are not good enrichment for clowns.

Firstly, they’re not sustainable. Helium is a rapidly depleting resource. Secondly, clowns like balloons because they mistake them for their eggs. A clown bouncing a balloon around on a string is taking care of its ‘baby.’ Clown eggs are brightly colored spheres that float around at shoulder-height, if healthy, and are transported by the parent by means of a filament. Balloons mimic these incredibly well. That is why clowns find balloons on the ground so distressing - a downed egg contains a sick embryo. The despair they experience when one floats away is that of child loss, and I’m sure you can imagine why they’re so distressed when one pops. That’s why malevolent breeds are predisposed to the act!
All balloons “die”. They cannot hatch. Every experience a clown has with a balloon, however happy at the outset, ends in tragedy. They are not good enrichment items, no matter how busy they keep a clown.

So what are some alternatives? If you have two or more clowns of any social breed, then toys like custard pies, water squirters, and air horns make excellent entertainment. Note: Most common breeds are social. If you are keeping a social breed singularly, you MUST play with it for several hours a day at the bare minimum. While these breeds tend to adore balloons the most, the repeat psychological trauma they suffer because of them is not worth the easy out.
If you keep a breed that prefers a solitary existence, they will get the most out of things like juggling supplies and balance balls. Make sure they have a safe space to play with these in when you aren’t home to supervise.
All breeds need human interaction. A few times a week you need to show your clown you appreciate it - that’s the best enrichment of all. Remember that some methods of training result in ‘unusual’ reactions to the four quadrants - most commonly, +P will become “rewarding” - and some performance breeds innately make that connection, so research the right way to reward your clown.

On a final note, DO NOT GIVE MIMES BALLOONS. Look on any mime forum and you’ll see countless threads with titles like “Help! My mime won’t play with toys!” Yeah, dipshit, THEY DON’T UNDERSTAND TOYS. All members of the mime group are highly specialized working breeds geared towards imagination play. They are very intelligent, deeply driven to perform their unique rituals, and not much else. They need to do their original job to be happy. They need to put on shows. If you cannot provide the stimulation of a fully public performance at least once a week for your mime, and cannot provide regular training sessions, either, do not get a mime. Consider a fool instead. A lot of people brush off fools as beginner breeds, too rambunctious and talkative, but there’s a reason they were preferred by royalty for centuries. They’re actually very versatile and eager to please! They do love tumbling and have a knack for mimicking human speech, but will happily learn the same tricks as a mime. They’re also content to live singularly and enjoy practicing in private quite a lot, making them rather compatible with modern life. Their larger cousins, the jesters, can also learn mime routines, but keep in mind that they are more willful! The sinister jester is a near dupe for the creepy mime, a popular breed, but they’re not a great choice for a total novice. Remember, they contributed heavily to the makeup of the scary clowns. (o:
Both fools and jesters will prefer to have physical props to play with in their off-time even if they’re trained to perform without them.

with the weather getting warmer I wanted to address something that a lot of people don’t know. if you have a german shepherd, husky, pomeranian, corgi, collie or any breed with a double coat, DO NOT SHAVE THEM DOWN

so many people shave their double coated dogs thinking it will keep them cool in the summer but this couldn’t be more wrong!!! the undercoat actually helps keep them cool!!! by shaving them down you are actually doing more harm than good. without the protection of the undercoat, your dog can easily become sunburned and will feel the heat much more than they would with the undercoat. shaving them removes their ability to cool themselves down

so in conclusion, PLEASE DONT SHAVE YOUR DOUBLE COATED DOGS

anonymous asked:

How would you feel about being kidnapped to become a breeding cow?

i hope it happens to me. i hope i’m thrown into a truck and i come to on a farm, already rigged into a heavy-duty milking sling. i hope i wake up because i’m being bounced around only to instantly realize a man’s cock is inside me, pounding away, and i have no idea how long it’s been going on. i can’t seem to make a sound. i realize i can’t even fully turn my head or see behind me. if i look down i can just barely tell that something’s happened to my breasts. they’re huge now, and swollen, so big that the teat cups suctioned onto my nipples are nearly dragging the ground. someone comes up alongside me and kneels down, and a huge hand reaches out to fondle me. he pulls the cup off my nipple and i just barely see his blurry, too-close face lean down before i feel the stranger’s mouth latch onto my breast and begin nursing milk directly from me. this entire time, the other man’s cock is still moving inside me, pounding toward my cervix so hard i feel an uncomfortable tight muscle contraction deep and low in my belly. i have no idea who he is. i have no idea where i am. …i have no idea who i am. i can’t remember anything. with his free hand, the man sucking my breast strokes my huge, heavy belly. .

i feel the cock slide out and moments later there are fat gloved fingers gently pushing apart my pussy lips, spreading my cunt open so wide it starts to ache. i feel my breast being put back into the pump and one man pats my thigh. i don’t understand the words they are saying. i can’t even remember words. i can feel one man’s entire hand inside me as someone else massages my belly. something sharp pricks me right in the butt, and a few seconds later, everything starts to go hazy again.

sharpington  asked:

Hi, I want to ask about the azawahks in your last post, what qualifies each as "healthy" or "obese?" The healthy one doesn't seem to have enough fat or muscle to cushion its bones and the obese doesn't have near enough fat to impair movement or put excess pressure on its joints. Is their weight being judged by how healthy and comfortable the animal is or by how cool it looks?

Here’s another similar ask on the subject that came in:

“ You recently got into a discussion on dog body types and obesity and ended up comparing the body of a healthy azawakh and an overweight one, but in the picture you used for the healthy dog you could see its ribs. So I was wondering what about the breed or any type of dog could lead to that being a healthy appearance. Is is something with what the dogs were originally breed for or maybe the environment? (it was also mentioned that azawakhs are capable of withstanding extremely high temperatures) “

These are the dogs involved in the question, for those just tuning in:

Correct weight azawakh above, obese below. 

I asked @desertwindhounds to answer this for me because she’s got a huge background in sighthounds, both from her own breeding and extensive research. Here’s her take:

“ Azawakh have what is known as very ‘dry’ musculature and skin. The muscles are very flat and the skin is very thin and tight, and their coat is typically very thin with very short hair. Combined with the lack of body fat, what you get when you are looking at many Azawakh is the same effect as a human body builder (without the deliberate dehydration.) This is an endurance runner, not a sprinter with big bunchy fast twitch muscles like a racing greyhound. The look is simply the way the dog is constructed.

The purpose of fat and muscle is not to 'cushion the bones’ on any dog, muscles move the dog and fat provides insulation or energy storage. You do NOT want a layer of fat on a working sighthound, it insulates the body. Running produces a lot of heat and some of that is dumped through the skin, a fat layer prevents that and the dog will overheat. Most sighthounds appreciate a bed to lie on, but something I have never seen in a country of origin dog, which don’t typically have cushions or blankets, they sleep on the ground, in a basic shelter, or in a den, is pressure sores. COO Azawakh have a large variety of appearance, and many do not have the extremely dry look that is appreciated by Western breeders. It’s a matter of personal preference in Western breeding. 

 Note that the coat has a good deal of influence on how thin and dry the dog looks. A smooth Saluki in hard condition with no body fat and a very short coat can have a similar dry appearance. A feathered Saluki in the same condition would not, because the coat is long enough to smooth out the appearance, it hides the extreme contours. With coated sighthounds like Borzoi or Afghans you’d never see that degree of dryness, the hair hides it. Sighthounds also have much thinner skin than other dog types, and a good sighthound will have very tight, elastic ligaments, including the layer under the skin (if you pull the skin up on a sighthound, it should pull back strongly), so the skin will actually 'cling’ more tightly to the dog, emphasizing the musculature. 

 It is really difficult to explain this to someone who is freaked out by the appearance. It helps to get your hands on such a dog. They do NOT feel frail or sickly, they feel solid and muscular, dense, and they should have plenty of muscle over the loin and along the withers. It feels, frankly, like running your hands over a human marathon runner with little body fat. Same thing, actually, except that humans are constructed in such a way that they don’t have a lot of pokey boney bits that are visible. “

some things people need to get straight

Don’t buy puppies from pet stores to “save the puppies from being mistreated!!” While this is done with the best of intentions, the puppy mill problem isn’t really about the puppies- the actual puppies are usually treated okay, it’s the parents that are kept in horrible conditions and forced to breed until they die. While you may be giving a home to one dog if you buy from a pet store, you’re supporting the misery of hundreds of other dogs with your money.

USDA certification isn’t a sign of a reputable breeder. It’s actually the mark of a puppy mill and if you see this, run fast in the opposite direction. CKC registration (Continental Kennel Club, not Canadian) is also a huge red flag.

But having AKC registered puppies doesn’t mean they’re reputable, either. While most good breeders (in the US) will have AKC registration, AKC isn’t picky about which dogs they register, so plenty of bad breeders do too. Also, “champion bloodlines” means nothing unless they’re at least in the second or third generations of a pedigree. 

Stereotyping breeds is not “like racism for dogs”. Humans weren’t strategically bred for hundreds of years to develop traits to assist them in specific tasks. Dogs were, so retrievers retrieve, greyhounds run, shepherds herd, and terriers fight. It’s not “all in how you raise them”. Genetics. They do stuff. Science. And hey could we maybe not compare the systemic oppression of minorities to people saying chihuahuas are barky? Thanks

Designer breeds i.e. labradoodles, maltipoos, cavachons etc. are not “the best of both worlds!” Again, genetics…that’s not how they work. Also realize that most of these dogs (especially since they are common products of puppy mills) don’t come from well-bred parents because reputable breeders generally don’t allow their dogs to be used to breed crosses. Like I’ve seen poodle breeders literally write it in their puppy contracts that they will take back the dog if they find out it’s being used to create “doodles”. 

If you support importing foreign rescue dogs but use the “overpopulation of shelter dogs in the US” factoid to protest dog breeding you’re a fucking hypocrite.

Don’t tell people “you can find any breed in a shelter!” Like ??? Yeah lemme just go find Cesky Terrier at my local humane society! I genuinely have no idea why people say this when it’s obviously not true?

Puppies aren’t a blank slate, and adult dogs don’t all come with awful baggage. If a puppy is genetically predisposed to aggression, all the early socialization in the world might not help at all. And while any adult dog will be shaped by its past, not all rescue dogs are abused and many are there because of circumstances completely unrelated to them and have had perfectly normal lives. You also have the advantage of already knowing their temperament, energy level, and any behavioral issues. 

anonymous asked:

Is Pangur blind or are her eyes just neat?

she’s albino! so, no pigment in her eyes.

the colours you see are structural reflection (blue) overlaying blood vessels (red). b/c her pupils are also red, this give them an unfocused/hazy look.

she’s VERY photophobic (unable to open her eyes in direct sunlight) and I suspect her vision isn’t great, but Pangur can still see.

i love thinking about the flaws of the hogwarts houses

like, gryffindor’s and slytherin’s are obvious. bravery can turn to foolhardiness, and if you’ll do anything for your ambition, you’ll find yourself facing some dark corners

but ravenclaw…i guess the price of valuing knowledge is when it comes at the expense of common sense (though that’s something we see more in hermione than any ravenclaw), and can breed haughtiness. hufflepuff? well, barty crouch junior was loyal and hardworking. if you’re loyal to the wrong people, and work towards the wrong goals, is it a virtue?

The Sims 4: Wolf Pack Challenge

Weโ€™re back with another challenge for The Sims 4! This time: the Wolf Pack Challenge. I created this challenge focused on The Sims 4: Cats & Dogs a couple months ago at Sims Camp with my friends Hatsyย and Steph0simsย and we put all of the finishing touches on it yesterday. Weโ€™re so excited to finally share!

I will be doing a letโ€™s play of this challenge on my YouTube channel, and Hatty and Steph will also be making some super cool stuff based on this challenge. Make sure you check out all of our YouTube channels for more Wolf Pack content!ย 

We have a Google Doc with the rules all listed for you. It might be easier to reference that than this tumblr post so Iโ€™ve linked it for you. Feel free to link back to that document instead of this Tumblr post if youโ€™re playing this challenge and linking to the rules.

The Goal

  • Create a single Sim living alone in a household with a โ€œWolf Packโ€ of six dogs and one evil raccoon that constantly tries to ruin everything. Your Sim must live off the land on the island in Brindleton Bay, earning their money through collecting, fishing, gardening, and sending their dogs to hunt.
  • The challenge ends when your Sim achieves their goal of building a home worth 50,000 simoleons on the island or when the raccoon dies.
  • Hereโ€™s the twist: the evil raccoon is the timer for the challenge. Once it dies the challenge is over. You play on short lifespan and you can set the difficulty of the challenge for yourself by setting the age of the raccoon. It is recommended that you start with an elder raccoon to make for a more difficult challenge. Starting with an adult raccoon will give you more time and therefore will make the challenge easier. Be wary: the raccoonโ€™s actual age is a mystery. You canโ€™t see how many days left until it dies.
  • The raccoon doesnโ€™t really do anything other than make your life miserable. Itโ€™s just here to ruin everything. It kinda sucks.

Keep reading

I work mornings in the old yard
digging in the ground
but I moonlight as an astronaut
mostly just sit around and howl


won’t you come to my house tonight
we could sleep on the floor
I got this window that looks out to Orion
I paid extra for

for some reason, pit bulls get shit on for being aggressive and “naturally violent”

yet the same is never said for chihuahuas and other lap dogs which routinely have aggression issues because of everything things “aww look at the leedle gwowling dog how cute is that~” and owners frequently don’t bother to train them how to behave properly and allow them to get away with aggressive behavior such as snapping at people.

Like, don’t get me wrong I love chihuahuas and other small dogs but they honestly get so many “free passes” on being aggressive or any other aggressive behavior despite the fact that bites and attacks from them can potentially as severe as a larger dog. They get “free passes” when they snap and bite at people, children, other animals, etc. because “they aren’t naturally violent”.

No singular dog breed is “naturally violent and aggressive” because they’ve been bred to work with and live with people, however, any dog can potentially have aggression issues for a number of reasons, including some of the more stereotypically gentle dog breeds such as labs. 

Beginner Clown owners PLEASE read this!!

I’ve seen a lot of Clown Husbandry posts recently, which is really wonderful for the clown-owner community. However! These posts will bring in a huge influx of new clown owners, and I thought I should go through some of the worst beginner clown breeds. Do not buy or adopt these clown breeds unless you’re an experienced clown owner.


1.  Hampshire Heavy Stripe

Hampshire Heavy Stripes put on weight incredibly quickly for any type of clown breed. They grow to be quite large, which may be good for meat clowns, but not for pet clowns. 

These clowns need an incredible amount of space (at minimum 50 square ft sized tents). I’ve seen reports of Hampshire Heavy Stripe Owners who can only fit around 3 other domestic clowns in a clown car with their Heavy Stripe. And on top of all those spacial needs, Hampshire Heavy Stripes end up needing over 100$ of freshly whipped cotton candy and peanuts a week.

Most breeds of Hampshire Heavy Stripes have an umbrella attached to them, almost as an extra appendage of sorts. While this umbrella is good for show, it is incredibly dangerous and can spray toxic material. These creatures are anything but docile, and will attack when provoked, usually using their umbrella  as a weapon.

Like any breed of clown, if treated right, they can be wonderful pets - but since these clowns are bred to be so aggressive, I would NEVER recommenced them to a beginner pet owner. 


2. Red Polka Boxer

These clowns look like they make for incredibly fun pets, and are great appearance wise. However, there is a large amount of problems many beginner (and even intermediate) clown owners do NOT take into account.

Red Polka Boxers are known for their ability to fit in to incredibly small boxes and jump out at any time. But, they will often cram themselves into small spaces under stress - spaces so small that they are impossible to be retrieved from.

These clowns will become extremely stressed when not given a MINIMUM of 130 different boxes to fit inside and play with. For many clown owners, this can end up costing in the thousands. Red Polka Boxers also need a variety of different clown cars to play in.

Usually somewhat antisocial, these clowns prefer to be alone - in small, confined spaces. However, this is no excuse for an inadequate circus tent. These clowns still need 30 square feet of circus tent to play around in when they see fit.

While these clowns are usually an incredibly healthy and kind breed, the risks in taking care of them are often too high. Red Polka Boxers are only for experienced clown owners.


I will add on to this post, for the right clown for you is very important. 

anonymous asked:

Im very interested in mimes but they're far too much for me to handle. Do you know of any mime like breeds that are more docile and better suited as pets?

Dour Bozos (Bozo flebilem) are very closely related to mimes, although they do make small amounts of noise. Some owners are put off by Dour Bozos because their normal activity resembles human despair; however, it’s important to remember clown express emotion very differently, and crying while standing still is an expression of contentment for Dour Bozos in the same way as juggling for many other clown species. Note that Dour Bozos are slightly venomous, but they only bite when extremely provoked.