Bruno Pieters (Royal
Academy for Fine Arts, Antwerp) graduated in 1999 with the collection PROJECT π1. (Photo: study of
one garment, ‘Printed top’. Make up: skin disease).
From the catalogue Academy show 1999: Concept: (Step 1) Eliminating the ‘total
look’: leaving behind the idea to combine different pieces into a formal/normal
silhouette — getting rid of the dogma of the matching outfit, be
it in colour, form or fabric. (Step 2) Considering a different approach:
devising another way of looking at one’s wardrobe and its functions/meaning.
(Step 3) Focusing on one particular/singular item (at random): for this
collection the emphasis is on the skirt — a
presentation of varying shapes and forms of this particular garment. (Step 4)
Creating the ideal backdrop for the subject: within this collection, the skirt
is essential; the other garments of the silhouette function as a surrounding
for this central piece. The interaction between these two poles creates a
certain tension. (Step 5) Not giving everything away at first sight: in order
to accentuate this leftfield approach, all 12 silhouettes will at first be
veiled and hidden away under identical black amorphous covers made of mohair,
creating accidental forms in the process. When lifted, these covers reveal what
has been kept from sight.
German born Anke Loh enrolled at the Academy of Fine Arts of Antwerp in 1995. She graduated four years later with the collection SHE, a manifesto for strong women inspired by Pina Bausch and Pipilotti Rist, resulting in a very light silhouette.
Her 3rd year collection, entitled FÜTTER MEIN EGO (photos) under the theme of seduction and nazism was inspired by the Peul/Wodaabe-men from Niger.