Sophie d’Hoore autumn—winter 1999-00.
Passionately interested in the structure of clothing, d’Hoore became engrossed in the craft of dressmaking, rediscovering and reworking classical shapes in a style that was entirely her own. Her patterns are clear and put together logically, always aiming for flexibility. She plays with contrasts between male and female forms, such as jogging trousers in taffeta and an evening dress in heavy poplin. She chooses the most beautiful materials, in maginificent wools, cottons, cashmeres and silks.
For the realisation of her designs she demands first-class tailoring, beautifully finished. The use of haute couture techniques such as ‘double face’ make her coats look as beautiful on the inside as they do on the outside.
Each season she extends her basic colours to provide a distinctive palette. For Winter 1999 white is accompanied by black, grey, beige and navy blue with red, fuchsia and orange.
Her collections are put together ingeniously. Each collection is a coherent whole of vests, trousers, skirts, suits, and coats. Even when combined with one another, the ensembles always look as if they were designed as a single silhouette.
D’Hoore has a contemporary feel for combining luxury with comfort, city clothes with sportswear. She succeeds in showing that luxury can be very simple and simplicity very luxurious.