alpstein

7

The white star on a red field is the only hint reminding you that the old Zürich building, right next to the Google offices, closed its doors exactly twenty years ago as the Hürlimann brewery, to open again as an expensive spa center seven years later. This is the only outside sign, right, because once inside you’ll find a chic collection of vintage tin plate signs displaying more than 150 years of Swiss brewmaking. Many of these names might still be in use, but most just as Hürlimann, they are today just soulless labels on industrial brews. Hürlimann was swallowed by Carlsberg (via Feldschlösschen) and its deserted brewery, because of its rich mineral water source, was transformed into this posh destination, with inflated entry prices because Switzerland, where not even such basic fun activities like photography or sex are allowed. What else to do then, other than having a Swiss beer? The Locher brewery tries bravely lots of recipes with various degrees of success and this Alpstein Bock is not exactly their best product. More than stingy with a raisin-like thickness, caramel and well, something bitter too, it just misses the spot… without being a bad one, actually.