alperne

Dolly Parton by Merry Alpern for Playboy Magazine, 1978

First, a confession: I’ve never liked gefilte fish. The slimy, grey balls of fish from a jar have always struck me as icky.

Turns out, I am not alone.

“I had the same experience as you. I never ate gefilte fish,” says Liz Alpern. “It was disgusting to me. I literally think I never ate it, until I started making it.”

That’s a remarkable statement coming from someone in the gefilte fish business. Alpern is half of the team behind the Gefilteria, which makes artisanal gefilte fish. Yes, that is a thing. Alpern gave me a demonstration at a catering kitchen in Brooklyn.

‘The Gefilte Manifesto’: A Loved, And Loathed, Jewish Staple Gets Updated

Photo: Lauren Volo/The Gefilte Manifesto