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“About ¾ way up the gargoyles.  The rope weaves on alternate sides of the gargoyles - there are no other anchors. The snow alternated between mildly solid on the top of each gargoyle to totally rotten in the gaps. It was probably just as well we couldn’t see all the way down. The big question in our minds was whether we had the guts to jump off one side if our partner fell off the other. Fortunately this never got put to the test.” On Mt. Robson’s Emperor Ridge (5.7 AI3 Grade V).

Photo: John Peterson