Is it possible to miss someone you don’t even know? Because we’ve been missing #Adele all week since seeing her in concert this past weekend 😩 So we’ve been blasting #19 all night while while relaxing and cooking and feeling all the feels. What’s your favorite song by @adele ? #hello #itsus #wewerewonderingifafteralltheseyearsyoudliketoeat (at Cleveland, Tennessee)
A birthday pic for BlueInsideGeistRat back on DA. It’s her OC Adele enjoying an evening alone; it’s tough having the Greatest criminal mind as a husband and looking after a brood of children at the same time:|
I still can’t get her design right….My apologizes.
So you have copied your vintage pattern pieces and their instruction sheet (that was step 1 and 2 from last week). This is this point where your efforts will either be small or large depending on how close to your size the vintage pattern is. Unfortunately, the further you go in the past, the smaller the patterns tend to run as everyone was shorter and smaller in the past. If you got exactly your size, congratulations, you are a lucky woman, and we’ll see you next week. For the rest of us, read on…
if the pattern is only one size away from your own measurements, then you can get away with an easy solution: simply add or subtract the difference from the side seams. So, if you have 38″ hips and the pattern is for a 36″ hips, add 1/2″ at each side seam, and you are good. See the top photo. Ditto for the bodice pieces and the seam of the sleeves.
But if the pattern is more than one size away from your measurements, i.e. more than 2-inches difference, you had better grade the pattern. Grading is done by computers at pattern companies and garment manufacturers, but it was originally done by hand. The photos above illustrate approximately where you would add or subtract to create larger or smaller sizes. I learned this technique for grading from reading Adele Margolis’ How to Make Clothes that Fit and Flatter (1969) (more on that book next week).
So, first you mark where you will be adding or subtracting inches, and then you can do one of two things: EITHER spread or overlap the pattern pieces, taping them to a second sheet of paper below or taping the overlaps down (this is called the slash and spread technique). This takes a fair amount of scotch tape, but it works. OR you draw a line on a second sheet of paper upon which you align your pattern piece, and then you slide the pattern piece up or out, or in or down, the 1/8″ or 1/4″ inch (or more) that you need and trace around a expanded or contracted section of the pattern as you go. Margolis says this is faster, but not for the inexperience grader. No matter how you choose to go, some of outer pattern lines will get jagged from the slashing and spreading, so you will want to smooth them out. You may want to use a styling ruler to help with this, see last photo.