I’ve honestly been surfing way way way more than I’ve been skating.
The last board I bought was a Mother. It’s too long. The wheel base is large and I’m thrown off. It’s been hot too. I can keep going with excuses. If pressed for a reason though, I probably couldn’t find one. There is a difference between an excuse and a reason. I have no reason.
Cowabunga though: I live less than a mile from the beach. Learning to skate before really learning to surf allows me to enjoy surfing in a way I’m not going to try to explain. Talking about things, like surfing and skateboarding, whose value relies so much on feelings, can end up sounding incredibly grandiose. When spoken and written about well it is perfect. But such prose is limited in supply. I’m just going to leave it as, “It feels good.” I’m just doing what feels good.
Prompted by the discovery of liquid water on Mars by NASA in the fall of 2015, Waves On Mars?? follows the journey of three planetary scientists, Trevor Gordon, Spencer Gordon and Landon Smith, on a trip to the Red Planet in search of waves.
Trevor Gordon, Fiji. “We were camping on the eastern most islands in Fiji. While surfing one afternoon, I watched a series of ominous storm clouds roll in and the water started to glow. I paddled back to the boat, grabbed my camera, and luckily caught Trevor cruising through the bowl as the clouds parted overhead.” Photo: Maassen