Sartoria-Formosa

HOW A SUIT JACKET OR SPORT COAT SHOULD FIT

By Derek Guy

Take a walk through any downtown business district today and you’ll see the modern man’s business uniform: a pair of dark suit trousers, a button-up shirt, a shiny tie, and a pair of dull, duck-billed shoes. Many men have given up on suit jackets, and for good reason. Most of them look like Willy Loman in one. Some, however, look tremendous with their jacket on; the difference is in how their jacket fits.

So how should a suit jacket or sport coat fit?

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Dionisio from @sartoriaformosa hard at work (at No Man Walks Alone HQ)

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Review of Sartoria Formosa (No Man Walks Alone):

You know you’re on the path to becoming a rightful blogger when brands reach out to you to offer items for review… I feel like I just lost my cherry!

This watershed moment just happened when No Man Walks Alone in New York (nomanwalksalone.tumblr.com) recently offered to send me a Sartoria Formosa suit for review. Here are the first pictures — I will write a more comprehensive review for a much more visible blog than my own, Parisian Gentleman, in the coming weeks. Stay tuned.

In the meantime, here’s the quick lowdown for my followers:

The Sartoria Formosa suit is fucking awesome!

Granted, it’ll set you back 2 G’s, but it’s just really really nice. The fabric, the cut, the details, everything about it is what I like.

Some surprises: sleeve width is on the larger side, which is actually quite common with authentic Neapolitan tailors, it’s actually more their traditional style, although the current trend is towards slimmer sleeves. But NSM has larger sleeves as well, I haven’t seen anyone complain about that online yet. Also, the buttoning point is quite low, relative to the overall length of the jacket. The jacket is rather short, in line with current style, but I think that Formosa would do well to raise the button stance a bit, to divide the vertical silhouette roughly into two halves. Here, it’s almost as if they lowered the button stance, while shortening the jacket. Two opposing movements which, if exacerbated, can create an imbalance. This would be a point for them to keep in mind for future styles.

Having said that, Formosa makes a very very very nice suit, which will be haunting me for some time to come — I must absolutely resist the urge to indulge… But you should.

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Sartoria Formosa by No Man Walks Alone.