Paulownia

Cloak, late 18th to early 19th century, Japan. “Dark blue silk Noh theater cloak with round neck, double-width sleeves and overall design of plum trees and round paulownia crests in gold supplemental weft patterning. There are twisted reddish-orange silk cords held by carriers at the edge of each sleeve and a plain weave purple silk lining. Silk satin weave ground, gilt paper-covered silk thread supplemental weft patterning”.  MFA. (William Sturgis Bigelow Collection"

flickr

Geiko Kokaji and Friend 1940s by Blue Ruin 1
Via Flickr:
Geiko (geisha) Kokaji, on the left, together with a maiko (apprentice geisha), in the 1940s or early 1950s. Kokaji appears in the 1939 Miyako Odori (Cherry Dance) programme, as a maiko.

Man’s vest, 19th century, Japan. .Man’s dark blue silk Kabuki theater vest (jimbaori) with a rolled, turned down collar extending to the lower front edge and silk tie cords with tassels at the sides and front. The overall design is of undulating vertical lines (tatewaku) and scrollwork (karakusa) surrounding roundels containing pine, paulownia, dragons, phoenix, clouds, Chinese lions, peony, chrysanthemum, bamboo, plum and water. Also scattered are good-luck symbols and treasures including paired scrolls, jewels, horn cups, axes, keys and mallets embroidered in brown, green, white, yellow, blue, orange, pink, purple and gilt paper-covered thread. This vest is for the role of a general at court.

MFA. (William Sturgis Bigelow Collection)