Hey DD, in a turn of absolutely terrible luck, I misplaced my passport in Dublin and will be spending a day to a week searching for it/waiting for a replacement. Would you happen to know any great places that you'd recommend I visit while I'm trying to stave off my inevitable panic and horror at my own bad luck? xx
Oh jeez. What a turn of events! Commiseration offered.
Here are some things you might do.
In the city:
Take a morning or afternoon to run around the National Museum
branch at Collins Barracks. Plenty of interesting stuff over there.
Also: don’t forget the old “main branch” of the Museum in center city on
Kildare Street. That’s where the Celtic gold items are. Lean against
the cases and droooool like the rest of us.
Go to Trinity College Library and see the Book of Kells. (Also mock George Lucas for stealing its design for the Jedi Library without crediting the original. Naughty George.)
Go visit St. Stephen’s Green
and say hi to the ducks. Lunchtime is good for this. Grab a bag lunch
from one of the sandwich places down toward the park end of Grafton
Check out Christ Church Cathedral, which
is extremely handsome. Visit the tomb of Dean Swift, writer’s writer
and satirist of satirists, finally all comfy someplace where (as the
tombstone says) “savage indignation can no longer lacerate his heart.”
Be there for the choir if you can.
Do a river or harbor or canal tour! Or maybe you’re feeling goofy enough to take one of the Viking Splash Tours.
They have vehicles that go in and out of the water, and they take you
around the main sights in town, and you get to wear a horned helmet and
wave a plastic sword or axe and yell ARRR at people. This strikes me as
highly therapeutic. :)
Outside the city:
out of town on the DART – take it down to Bray and walk the seafront.
Or go up north to Howth or Skerries and soak up the
Or: Grab the Luas down to Dundrum and wander around the big shopping centre there
– some nice stuff there for windowshopping and some good places to sit
for lunch. (If using the Luas, make sure to buy a Leap Card from one of
the machines – you’ll save significantly on fares.)
Or: If you feel like going so far north and have the cash for the train, catch the Enterprise up to Belfast (they’ve just refurbished the rolling stock, finally)
and check the place out. If you go up there, right across from Great
Victoria St. Station is that queen among pubs and National Trust site,
the Crown Liquor Saloon.
Go see the tile and the mirrors and the mosaics and the rest of the
art. They pull a fair pint, too, though some will feel it’s overpriced.
– There’s also the new Titanic Quarter, which is worth looking into.
Now having said all that: I am genuinely slow on the uptake today, because the very first thing I should have thought to say to you is: If you’re stuck in Dublin for the next week, you are about to be stuck in the middle of the St Patrick’s Festival. This is, well, a mixed blessing. There will be a million
cool things going on. There will also be a LOT of people in town. A
LOT. If you have trouble with crowds, you may want to be aware that last
year there were something like half a million visitors in
for the Parade. Everything gets insanely crowded, and in some places
prices will get jacked up, sometimes ridiculously. Keep your eyes open.
Finally: Food in town, and pubs: Gotham Cafe is great (say hi to David and/or Jackie for us): best NY thin crust pizza in the city, and much more. Food’s good up at Porterhouse Central at
the top of Grafton Street. Half the time when Peter and I are up in
town, we’ll wind up in one of those two places. Also enjoyable: (I’m not
going to link to these – Google them, you’ll find them): Monty’s of
Kathmandu (in Temple Bar): Yamamori and Yamamori Noodles: The Counter
(fabulous modular/build-it-yourself burgers): Pichet (French, super):
Chez Max at Dublin Castle (Palace Street: best steak frites in town): The Port House (tapas and sherries etc): Brasserie Sixty6 (bistro
stuff): The Exchequer (gastropub and cocktail joint par excellence):
Thai Spice (down Talbot Street behind Busaras). Favored pubs: The Oval
Bar (off O’Connell Street north of the river): The Brazen Head (oldest
in the city – a pub has operated on that site since the 1100s or
thereabouts): The Long Hall (”the wizards drink there”): Neary’s, off
Grafton Street (note bronze arms sticking out of the wall like something
from La Belle et la Bete): Davy Byrnes (aka “The Moral Pub” in
James Joyce)(good oysters there, too): McDaid’s (aka “The Morgue”:
apparently it was, once) near the Westbury Hotel: Bruxelles, ditto: The
Bailey in Duke Street: and a bit new, Mary’s Bar (& Hardware) across
from Brown Thomas in Wicklow Street.