Reference for Malik Ishtar RPers - Applying Kohl and its Importance

“So you want to learn how to look as gorgeous as I do?”

So I’ve been wanting to make a post like this for a while since I’ve seen a lot of Malik RPers either improperly addressing the kohl or just ignoring it altogether.

Firstly, what Malik is wearing is kohl. It is NOT the same as western cosmetic eyeliner though it is used as eyeliner in the Middle East and in some parts of Africa. Historically, kohl’s been used to protect from the sunlight in desert habitats. It was also used to prevent insects from getting into the eyes and to ward off evil. Kohl is also thought to prevent certain eye diseases. In modern times, kohl is now mostly just used for makeup. 

Kohl comes in powder, paste, and liquid forms. There are also different methods of applying it whether it’s a modern method (applying it like western eyeliner) or a traditional method. However, for the purposes of this post, I’m going for the traditional route. We can assume that since the Ishtar family is very traditional, kohl application would be of no exception to that. With that in mind, the family would use powder kohl and not liquid. They would also most likely have made their own kohl mixture which is traditionally darker than commercial store-bought kohl. After Malik got to the surface, I’d imagine that he gets his kohl custom made and gets it delivered to him. The powder might come from other clan members who made the kohl in the tombs or from a company that makes top quality kohl. I don’t think he would make kohl himself. 

I believe Malik wouldn’t use manufactured kohl as it’s made with chemicals and other alternative ingredients. Some manufactured kohl can actually be harmful to the eyes. The kohl he uses would be pure kohl.

Kohl in the Ishtar Clan:

l should note that Isis’s way of applying kohl is different from Malik and Rishid’s way.

As seen in this picture, her style is more how it’s commonly applied by women. The lines are smoother. In contrast, Malik’s lines are sharper. And of course, there are the three swoops around and under the eyes (and yes, three. not two).

Now, why do Malik and Rishid wear their kohl in such a way?

I’d like to point out this amazing detail that Kazuki Takahashi put in the manga. I missed this detail the first time I read through the chapter. When Malik is a child, he does not wear the kohl. That said, his father wears the kohl with the three swoops. Even while Malik is undergoing the ritual, he is not wearing kohl. However, when he staggers out of the chambers in his bandages, he is wearing kohl for the first time. From this, we can infer that the kohl is anointed upon completing the ritual and is only supposed to be worn in this style by the head of the Ishtar clan and subsequent heir.

So how did Rishid end up with the kohl around his eyes? While he was seen as the servant of the family, he didn’t wear kohl. If you notice, during Battle City, Rishid wears the kohl in the same way as Malik and Malik’s father. I believe the kohl symbolizes the strength of their bond. Malik viewed Rishid as his shadow and his right-hand man. Malik gave Rishid permission to wear the kohl in such a way to mark him as part of the Ishtar clan. The kohl is Malik’s way of letting Rishid into his family as his brother.

With that context established, we know that kohl markings are extremely important to the Ishtar family. It is part of their customs and holds cultural and religious significance to them. Malik would apply his kohl everyday just as a pharaoh would put on his headdress to mark his status as leader.

Practical Information about Kohl:

As I said earlier, I’m going to focus on the traditional methods rather than on the more modern kohl application process. Also, the kohl I’m discussing is specifically the powered kind and not the paste or liquid kohl.

As pictured above, this is kohl in its powdered form. It’s not purely black. There is shine in it from the ground up minerals. Non-traditional kohl can also come in different colors such as green and blue.

Traditional kohl is stored inside of this wooden container. It’s called a kohlia. The application stick that comes with the kohlia is called a kohl stick

Kohl is water-proof, but it can smudge. So to people who write Malik’s kohl “running” from tears, it’s not very accurate. At most, his kohl would smudge from crying, but it wouldn’t run down his face like mascara. While it is water-proof, it is not spit-proof so saliva could ruin it.

How to apply kohl in the traditional way:

First, you would need to soak the smaller round end of the kohl stick in rosewater or olive oil overnight. This way, the oil can soak into the wood. The oil can also be used to clean the kohl powder off of the stick once you finish applying it.

When the oil soaks into the wood, the powder will stick to the kohl stick when it’s placed inside of the kohlia. 

The method I’m going to describe takes a lot of practice. It is also very easy to smudge the kohl if done incorrectly. Also, while western culture may often only apply eyeliner to the outside of the eye, kohl is traditionally applied to the waterline. 

  1. Dip the kohl stick into the powder and flick off the excess powder.
  2. If right-handed, hold it the stick in your right hand. Close the eye. With the other hand, slightly pull up on the eyelid with the index finger and thumb.
  3. Here is the trickiest step. Hold the stick parallel to the eye. Place the end of the stick to the inner corner of the eye and carefully drag the stick between the eyelids from one end of the eye to the outer corner in one movement. You have to practically touch the eye with the stick to make sure the kohl gets on the waterline. This method also ensures that both the upper and lower eyelids have the kohl applied to them.
  4. Add extra kohl to the outer and inner corners if you wish. Though, in Malik’s case, definitely extend lines out from the inner (lower eyelid) and outer corners of the eye.
  5. (For Malik) Re-dip the kohl stick to get more powder. Draw a line out from the lower outer corner of the eye (what I’d count as the first swoop). From the end of that line, make the second swoop by moving a line down with a curve arching towards the eye (length of this line would be about half the thumb). From the end point of the second line, extend a third line that goes back towards the nose. The third swoop is also slightly curved downwards and length of it stops at around the center of the eye.
  6. Re-dip the kohl stick and hold it in the left hand. Repeat the steps 2-5 on the other eye.

How to remove kohl:

As I mentioned earlier, kohl is water-proof. Therefore, extra care needs to be taken in order to remove it from the eyes. Often times, even after removal, kohl can linger on the lower eyelashes and make the eyes appear darker (resembling dark circles under the eyes).

You can use cleansing milk or olive/castor oil to remove kohl effectively. Apply the cleansing milk to the face and massage under the eyes. Use cotton balls to remove the kohl and other dirt.

With oil, just put a few drops of the oil under the eyes and massage into the skin to remove the kohl. Use a cotton ball to wipe off the kohl and follow up with a proper face wash.

Face scrub and Vaseline can also help to clean off kohl. 

For someone like Malik, who cares a lot about his appearance, he would most likely use cleansing milk or oil for proper kohl removal before bed. 

So I hope that people who RP Malik Ishtar or write him in fanfiction have learned some new things today. Kohl is not the same as western eyeliner and holds a lot of cultural significance in Northern Africa and in the Middle East. It deserves to be recognized more often when writing Malik’s character. They are an extremely important facet of his life and his heritage as a tombkeeper.

Kohl is not a Yordle that is violent by any means. In his stint in the prison system, he was beaten and attacked by many of the other inmates due to his lack of self control around objects he thinks he needs more than others (fortunately, that has calmed a bit over time, but still is a problem).

The thought that he would use his grappling hook is pretty common, and most enemies would consider it in their defense against Kohl. What they don’t often factor in is how strong Kohl actually is, and more than that: how much mass a sack full of treasure can actually have.

Violence is not the answer to the young inventor, more often than not taking the route of escape than that of confrontation. That said, while he is capable of solo escape or taking a beating, he is completely intolerant of seeing somebody incapable of fighting back being attacked. The little bugger can be as fearless as a certain Noxian Cavalier when push comes to shove. 

                                Easterlings and their Kohl-Lined Eyes

Peter Jackson’s films most noticeably bestows this specific aesthetic to the Easterlings of Rhûn (and the Haradrim). In particular,we notice that the Easterling (presumably male) soldiers that march through the Black Gates in The Two Towers have both upper and lower eyelids lined in black kohl.

               What is kohl? “Kohl,” the oldest form of makeup, literally
               means to brighten the eyes. The practice dates back to
               4000 B.C.E. when Egyptian men and women lined their
               eyes with a paste made out of heavy metals containing
               concentrations of lead sulfide (i.e. galena and antimony).
               The mixture would be burnt to release the lead oxide, thus
               making the resulting powder black. The powder would be
               kept in small jars and applied with small rounded or flattened
               instruments. Oil would be applied to the instrument before
               dipping it into the mixture and swiping it across the eyelids.
               Many other cultures throughout history, such as Indians
               and peoples in North Africa, used kohl made from lead,
               plant extracts, resins, and soot (such as from sunflower
               seeds and almond shells). Kohl would sometimes even
               be perfumed with frankincense. For Egyptians, the
               application of kohl had varied purposes such as warding
               off diseases and evil spirits, and protecting one’s eyes
               from the desert sun. The eyes were important to Egyptian
               culture and kohl emphasized their intensity and depth.

Now back to the Easterlings and kohl. “Culture” is diverse, non-fixed, and dynamic. We cannot assume all Easterling tribes practiced lining their eyes in kohl, nor did they do so for the same reasons, and those reasons could have changed during its long history of practice. What may have started as a superstition of warding off evil spirits could have transformed into a common cultural aesthetic. However, there are valid reasons to assume its practice was similar to that of the ancient Egyptian’s, especially in terms of sun protection. The sun had a blaring presence on the semi-arid steppes that the Easterlings called home. And for soldiers decked in golden scaled armor, kohl-lined eyes could offer some form of protection from the glint of the sun’s rays.

Amended from [ x ]

A história da maquiagem ♥ (Primeira Parte)

E tudo começou no Egito… 

A maquiagem, assim como os cosméticos, é muito antiga, provavelmente utilizada desde a pré-história para prática de rituais xamânicos, cultos funerários e à fertilidade.

Os mais antigos indícios achados por arqueólogos datam o Egito Antigo, por volta de 3.000 antes de Cristo.

Cleópatra bem representou o ideal de beleza daqueles tempos. Carismática e poderosa, imortalizou seu tratamento banhando-se em leite, cobrindo as faces com argila, maquiando seus olhos com pó de khol e outras misturas de metais pesados.

  • O kohl é um pigmento preto usado como sombra, para delinear os olhos e escurecer os cílios e as sobrancelhas.

O comércio do Egito com outros povos levou a maquiagem para a Europa (Grécia e Roma), onde embelezavam não apenas as mulheres, mas igualmente os homens também.