Let me first iterate that going from vivid colors to strait up blond is not an easy task for anyone, even a stylist. No matter what that bottle says, even if it says Semi-Permanent, do not use it unless you are willing to commit to it.
This however, was not the case for mister Trevor Toxxik. He’s been committed to his fashion hair colors for over a year now, and through networking with various stylists, became very good at taking care of this task on his own steam. Even with his Level 3 almost black hair, he was able to achieve amazingly vivid cool pastel colors, such as Pale Violet, and Sky Blue.
For those of you that do not know, to do a vivid color, you generally have to bleach your hair first, and for cool colors, you have to get it as close to white as humanly possible (or else risk the color coming out muddy.) And, the darker your hair is from the start, the more damage you’re going to sustain to obtain that color. Toxx’s hair was DEFINITELY no exception. His hair was definitely, what I consider, Deep fried.
So when Toxx came to me and asked me to make him a blond by any means necessary, I immediately took to google to figure out my battle plan. Knowing that Toxx Bathes his hair in Manic Panic for up to six hours, and understanding that the integrity of his hair wasn’t quite up to par, I knew color staining was going to be the biggest issue. Damaged hair is queer: at times, it can completely reject color, vomiting it out like a spitter in Left 4 Dead 2. But other times, in cases of severe damage, color will cling for dear life to the hair, never ever EVER releasing from it, even after repeated washings and bleachings. I couldn’t do anything about the staining, but I needed to get a vast majority of the semi-permanent color out of his hair without frying it further and so I could see how much of a staining problem we had.
A method commonly mentioned was the “Vitamin C” Trick; taking 2,000mg of Vitamin C tablets, crushing them to kingdom come, and mixing them with cheap shampoo. It was said to make the color release from the hair without taking away from any hair integrity. To test this method, I grabbed a semi-permanent purple that I had left over from the Ombre I did on EmoKitten4Ever, took it to my own head, then tried the Vitamin C method to remove it, and by golly, it actually worked quite well on my hair.
So, we tried it on Toxx… Twice. It pulled out a vast majority of the color! But, the staining underneath was going to be a different kind of demon to contend with.
So we stepped up our game and did a Soap Cap (or Bleach Wash) which is an equal parts mixture of Lightener Powder, 20vol Developer, and luxurious shampoo. While this method is a tinge more abrasive than the Vitamin C treatment, it’s still gentler than going in with strait up lightener. This is where it left us.
It was a start! I decided to move him in the direction of aiming for an auburn (or strawberry) blond to give me a little more play in masking the staining that had occurred. When he agreed, I lifted his regrowth with a 20vol lightener, and redistributed some of my soap cap mixture to some particular problem areas on his head.
So close now! I went over the head with a 7N from Wella’s Color Charm line with a 10vol developer, and that got rid of all the violet tones, and made his regrowth a perfectly smoky auburn. All that was left was some green (blue that had stained.) We stopped for the night, and decided to give his hair a resting period before finishing the job.
The day after, I went in with PM Shines 9RO. There were no more grey tones in the hair after that.
What a difference! Now the camera isn’t quite lying, there is still SOME blue poking through, but I’m giving his hair one last resting period before going at it again.
Overall, I’m pretty fucking pleased with myself on this one. So, if anyone here has any questions on how to deal with Semi-Permanent dyes, or needs tips or advice, please feel free to ask! :3 I have a section of my blog dedicated to it! :3