Designers Frederico Piaggi and Stefano Citron face a challenging task at Gianfranco Ferré. The design duo is expected to move the brand forward and update the late founder’s DNA when it’s still unclear how new owner Paris Group plans to develop the beleaguered business. Amid this sense of uncertainty, they put together a collection of architectural, often asymmetric looks, which had some appeal in the way they were executed with a modernist hand.
Where last time it had perhaps gone too far in its play with cuts, this time the label struck the right balance of oversized lapels and collars and innovative use of zips and stylised aesthetics. Gloves were held in place by zips and metal cuffs to ruche them up the arm. Waists were magnified by belted coats and the continuation of volume throughout the collection. Zipped-up panel minidresses had something sci-fi about them and came in silver and gold, while simpler-looking – but won’t have been to craft – evening, essentially, cocktail dresses boasted durable zips down their sides. The show notes told that Piaggi and Citron “follow their vision of the garment as a structure in movement, forging an androgyny that, freed from all rigidity, is totally sensual”. Their mission seemed to be accomplished.