G. Inglese

WIWT at my workplace SPIGA 3  

This is quite a typical workday outfit of mine. Earthy colors, cotton, wool and linen regardless of the season, and preferably an unconstructed jacket. 

Double breasted moleskin sport coat - Boglioli

Light blue shirt with one piece collar - G. Inglese

Dark blue wool tie Salvatore Piccolo

White Irish linen pocket square with light blue edges - Viola Milano

Cotton trousers - Giab’s

Socks - Officine Italia

Tassel loafers - George Cleverley (made by C&J)

All brands except George Cleverley are found at SPIGA 3, and we’ll soon stock Crockett & Jones as well. 

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Solaro suit - hand tailored by Sartoria Formosa in Naples.  Caccioppoli cotton cloth, spalla manica a camicia, patch hip pockets, doppio impuntura.

Cotton/linen striped shirt - tailored by G. Inglese in Puglia. Albini Bruges fabric, hand-attached sleeves and buttons  ||  Shantung silk grenadine tie - handmade by Bigi in Milan. Hand-rolled tip  ||   Paisley silk pocket square - handmade by Drake’s in London.  Hand-rolled edges

Today we had our first session with the very talented photographer Milad Abedi, who helped us shoot the G.abo Napoli SS14 collection. We expect it to be available online in the next couple of days. 

The mannequin is wearing:

Jacket - G.abo Napoli in wool and linen blend

Shirt - Poggianti

Tie - Viola Milano

Pochette - G. Inglese 

Adam is wearing: 

Jacket - G.abo Napoli AW13 

Shirt - Salvatore Piccolo linen and cotton shirt. 

The Popover Shirt

Summer is a great time for slightly more casual takes on tailored clothing, and there’s no easier way to dress down a tailored jacket than by using a slightly more casual shirt. So instead of the finely woven cotton dress shirts you might use for the office, consider something in a linen or linen blend. Bolder patterns can also make a shirt look more casual, although you want to be wary of anything that looks too busy. I find blue and white Bengal stripes to be the most useful.

I’ve also come to really like popovers, which is a pullover style with a half placket front. Before sport shirts were made with coat fronts – where the opening went from the collar down to the hem, like a coat – they were made with half-plackets such as this button-down. Nowadays, popovers can be seen a sort of “in-between.” They’re more relaxed than a traditional shirt, but dressier than a polo, which makes them great for those days you want to look sharp, but casual.

The problem with popovers is that they can be sometimes hard to fit. Unlike long-sleeved polos or rugbys – which are styled similarly – these are constructed from a woven, rather than knitted, material. Which means they’re less stretchy. So, in order to easily slide in and out of these things, you want your shirt to be cut a little bigger, but not so big that it looks baggy when worn. 

I ended up going through my shirtmaker Ascot Chang in order to get the right fit, but you could also try many of the ready-to-wear options and be more exacting with your alterations tailor. Try Sid Mashburn, Gitman Brothers, J. Crew, G. Inglese, Individualized Shirts, Fun Time Shirt Company, and Ralph Lauren to start. For something custom, check out Mercer & Sons, Luxire, and our advertiser Proper Cloth. The first will do made-to-order, where you can customize your shirt from a wide range of pre-selected options, while the last two can do made-to-measure, where you’ll get a shirt made according to the body measurements you submit online.  

HOW A SHIRT SHOULD FIT

by S. Charlie Weyman

Most men can find well-fitting shirts off-the-rack; the question is whether or not they know one when they see it. Though a surprising number of men don’t know how a shirt should fit, once learned, the lessons become intuitive. 

Body: Walk through any downtown center today and you’ll see men with shirts that are too big, with excess fabric billowing from their backs like sails. Models in fashion magazines, on the other hand, often wear theirs too tight. The right fit is somewhere in the middle: slim enough to be flattering, but roomy enough to allow for movement. The chest should fit cleanly, with no pulling at the shirt buttons; shoulders should end at the natural shoulder joints.

Keep reading

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Diplomatic Ties part 312: Brioni.

Sunny autumn day, but colder than it looks. Perfect weather for a chalkstripe flannel suit from Zegna, worn with a G. Inglese shirt, Brioni tie, ps from Vanda and sunglasses from Moscot.

Also check out our new, revamped website. Still under construction but up and running: Diplomatic Ties

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The Details of a G. Inglese Shirt.

DeeR is pleased to work some very skilled artisans. Here is a closer look at some of the painstaking work that goes into a an G. Inglese shirt. It is definitely a labour of love.

1. The Collar is attached to the body of shirt by hand. 2. The shirring on the top of the armhole is called grinza. The sleeve is inserted into the armhole and attached by needle and thread. 3. The Placket or front of the shirt is folded and stitched to the rest of the shirt. 4. The bottom hem of the shirt is rolled and then stitched by hand. 5. The bottom of the seam of gusset is bartacked. 6. The buttonholes are neatly sewn by hand. 7. The gauntlet is reinforced with a hand stitched bartack.