So, many of you guys are probably familiar with the wire+tape method to make drill curls in wigs. But did you know you can also use wire+tape for spikes? You can get more natural-looking spikes that won’t flop over time with this method. And you won’t have to spend hours glueing hair down on a foam core. This method is good for long spikes that stick outward like Axel from Kingdom Hearts, or Aigami from Yu-Gi-Oh! In this tutorial, I used a Vegas base wig in Dark Blue from Arda Wigs
Here are the steps:
- Section off hair for the spike. Cut a piece of floral wire in the length you need for the spike plus extra 1 inch (you will know why later). And sandwich the wire between two strips of clear heavy-duty packaging tape. Trim the tape down to long triangle shape
- Divide the hair you parted eariler into two sections and clip them away (make sure the top section has more hair than the bottom). Stick the end tip of the wire into the wig cap and have it poke out below. If you need to, use your shears to punch a small hole in the wig cap so the wire can poke through
- Bend the end tip of the wire up into the main wire to create a triangle leg that will help support the wire’s position. Hot glue part of the wig cap to the wire inside the leg to secure it
- Tease the inner layer of hair from each half of the spike with a teasing brush or fine-tooth comb
- Comb out the outer layer of the spike to clean it up. Put glue on the wire and press down the top section of the spike first
- Do the same for the bottom section of the spike
- Trim more layers near the tip of the spike to create more dimension
- With a flat iron on medium heat, flip the end of the spike to shape it, hold until it cools
- Comb the outer layer of the spike, spray it in place with Got2B spray, and use Got2B glue or Tacky glue to secure the tip
And that’s it! Enjoy your cool spikes with minimal effort. I hope this was helpful to you guys. :D
This assignment was for us to design houses with a secondary shape influencing the interior details. The Crit on Monday specifically said that I was on the right track, but I should spread them out more in terms of the shape language. I had fun though!!
Anyways - more work to come!!
I’ll be working with Foam core this week and you should see some fancies AND CHARACTER DESIGNS !!
Project: Female Guardsman Cosplay (Part 6 - Making the Laspistol)
Neither of us have ever built prop weapons before so we decided to start with a laspistol. We might built a full size lasgun in the future. As with the rest of the cosplay, we started with some research;
Laspistols are built on pretty much every planet in the Imperium with a manufactorium and although the rough design is similar the specific shape can vary (even within the same planet).
This gave us a lot of freedom to create our pistol as it didn’t have to be a perfect copy as long as it captured the core elements of a laspistol. That being said our main inspiration was the image from the core rulebook;
The design is very boxy and simple (like most Imperial design) and the only challenging shape was the trigger and grip. For this we used a broken Nerf gun from a charity shop.
To decide the size I created a basic line drawing of the weapon and scaled it so the grip matched the size of the Nerf gun.
The only piece we needed from the Nerf gun was the trigger and grip. The barrel was too thick so we removed the chamber and then used a saw to cut the gun down to just the grip and trigger.
Using foam board (sometimes called foamcore) we carefully designed a housing for what was left of the Nerf gun and began to box it up into a laspistol shape.
We continued to add elements using PVC piping for the muzzle and scope. For the cylindrical element at the rear of the pistol we use a PVC joining piece. Holes were cut into the foam core to slide the muzzle into. PVC is tough to glue so any extra strength we could add to the join was a bonus.
The edges of the foam board left exposed foam which doesn’t take paint. To fix this we carefully measured and cut out a thin card casing to cover all the foam board parts of the gun. This also added strength.
The final assembly was undercoated with black spray paint and then dry-brushed with a metallic acrylic. The casing has been base coated.
We may come back for a better paint-job, but this was sort of a practice weapon so we may just go straight to a lasgun and leave this pistol as a prototype.
Next time we will be painting the armour. Almost finished!! See you soon.
I am a designer IRL and I wanted to share some sign ideas with the world. Since different approaches work with different people, I tried to cover the gamut between directions that are alternately jokey, serious, philosophical, and pointed. You might hate some, you might like some.
If you see something you like: steal it — make your own version of it — improve on it. Or, if you think all these are crap, come up with an kickass idea of your own that make these look pathetic in comparison.
But if you want to use these as-is, be my guest. You can find PDF versions on Google Drive. These are all sized to 20” x 32”. (My thought was that 40” x 32” is a common foam core size so dividing it in half would be a good way to optimize material — 2 signs per sheet).
This cosplay was a collaboration between myself and my fiance @chuggeyartandcosplay of the character Casca from the manga series Berserk.
The Armor is made primarily from EVA foam and brass paper clasps. the armor was then coated in plasti dip to seal the foam, painted with silver spray paint, and weathered with black acrylics. the Band of the Hawk Cape pin was my first time casting. the master mold was made using a foam core box and an original model made of EVA foam sealed in plasti dip. the mold itself being cast in Smooth-on Oomoo. The final casting was made using cooper powder to coat the mold and smooth cast 300. while the casting was still liquid i placed a safety pin into it so it could act as a pin. other fabric parts were sown from cotton fabrics and fux leather and the sword was constructed with poplar wood eva foam, black cord, and painted in the same manner as the armor.
I use paperclay (ignore the cherubplay notif lmao) over aluminum foil for small horns and insulation foam or styrofoam for big horns. For styrofoam you want the kind made out of bubbles, not the crunchy kind.
(Also comes in pink and purple, you can find insulation foam boards at Home Depot or Lowes or places like that. They’re very big so if you have a tiny car like me you’ll have to snap it into manageable chunks in the parking lot to fit it in and you’ll have everyone stare at you)
Here’s an aluminum foil base. Sorry about the gross carpet s:
Here’s insulation foam bases. To make these you cut out the shape of your horns and hot glue several layers together (if you’re using thin layers) then sand them into shape. You do the same thing when using styrofoam except you can’t sand that I think? Granted I never tried, I just used scissors or an xacto blade and hacked off chunks.
Stick your clay on and don’t worry about making them super smooth or anything, it doesn’t matter. Just don’t put on a ton of clay; the less clay the better because it means the horns aren’t as heavy. Ideally you want the finished product to be a few millimeters thick, with the tips of horns being thicker to prevent breakage. Let them dry, don’t sand until they’re fully dry.
Also another important thing. Don’t do that thing where people don’t add enough clay to the bottoms of their horns. Rounded bottoms don’t look good and look fake af. That’s not how actual horns grow so make sure you add extra clay to the bottom. When you’re done with these you don’t want the horns to taper at the bottom; the bottom should be your thickest point and it should be flat.
When they’re dry I take an xacto blade and cut off any lumps to help make sanding go by faster.
Sanding is the most important part, it’s how you get nice, smooth horns. I start off with 60 grit sandpaper and sand until smooth, then I add on more paperclay to any uneven parts, cracks, dents, and areas that are too thin. If there’s aluminum foil or foam showing through, cut some of it out then refill with clay. Wait until dry, resand, and repeat as necessary until the horns are perfect. It’s very tedious and annoying but boy is the final product Noice. After that I sand them with 360 grit sandpaper to remove the marks left by the 60 grit (360 grit is super fine while 60 grit is rough.)
^^^ the same pair of horns, post sanding. Next to them is the insulation foam core before I sanded it into shape. At this point you can poke a hole in the bottom of the horns and hot glue in a screw anchor.
Here’s a pile of sanded horns ready to be painted. After you sand, the last thing you need to do is angle the bottoms (Some horns won’t need to be angled, like Terezi horns.) If the bottom isn’t properly angled your horns will stick out badly. I cut off just a tiny bit (I start off with around ¼ to 1/8 of an inch) to get the horns to point more inwards/backwards/wherever they need to go, you don’t need to lop off a ton. Start off with a little, it’s easier to cut off more than to re-add more clay because you cut off too much. Every time I cut some off I screw them into the wig to see how they stand up. This is also a good time to say that once you’re completely done with your horns it’s probably a good idea to replace the screw anchor since it could be pretty stripped. You might not screw yours into a wig to test them as much as I do, and if not then you might be fine.
Your horns should be ready to paint at this point. Wipe them down with some damp toilet paper to remove any dust first in order to prevent lumps in the paint.
I use cheapo acrylics to paint my horns. I like my yellow to be thick but my orange and red to be thin to paint on layers easier, but it all depends on how you like to paint your horns. If your paint is too thick you can simply water it down. I also like to GENTLY sand off any bumps in the paint with my fine grit sandpaper between layers. Once they’re painted, seal them. I use Krylon aerosol sprays to seal them but I heard from someone that you can use Mod Podge hard coat as well? I like sprays because there’s no brush marks, but if you use those spongy brushes that could be a good way to eliminate brush strokes with Mod Podge. I’ve never tried it so don’t take my word for it.
If you want shiny horns get the spray in gloss. I use two different sprays, both matte finish, but one says dries in minutes and the other says clear latex finish (look where the red line is). I apply the latex one first and the dries in minutes one after.
I use the screw method to install my horns. Horns on headbands looks downright awful. I used to use cardboard to stick the screws through but I use wonderflex now (the white stuff) but use whatever you’d like, so long as it’s sturdy. Make sure to use a washer (the donut looking thing) so the screw doesn’t push through the cardboard/wonderflex/whatever you have. For Captor horns I use a single piece of wonderflex per side because it’s a lot easier to screw them in if they had separate pieces per horn instead.
Screw anchors WILL get stripped eventually from screwing and unscrewing horns (you can tell when because your horn is no longer stable on your head and it wiggles around everywhere.) Just take some pliers and yank them out then hot glue in a new pair.
^ Screw anchors look like that.
For Nitram horns and tall horns like Makara horns, I screw them in as well but I also stabilize them with wire. I don’t exactly remember which gauge wire I use but I think it’s like… 14 or something??
Make sure to shape them to your head. Not too tight or else you’ll get a wicked headache while wearing your wig and horns. I make a hole in the wonderflex next to the screw hole and also a hole in the horn to stick the wire through; I screw the horns in first then shove the wire in. For Nitram horns angle the wires up to account for the weight of the horns so they don’t droop on your head. You’ll be able to angle horns whichever way you need if there’s wire in them.
(Ignore the yellow text.)
The pictures above were for a pair of tall horns, just stick one side in and bend the wire at the middle to get the other side in then rebend to its original shape.
This pair was specifically requested to be on a headband (which I don’t do anymore) but the ONLY time I will put horns on a headband is if they’re MONSTER HORNS that need more support.
The headband goes UNDER the wig and the screws stick out of the wig, then you can screw the horns on that way. I do this for Dammek horns, ancestor horns, or big fantroll horns where wire support isn’t enough to keep them up.
Sometimes horns break, but they’re easily fixable. (God, a lot of these next pictures are of old horns and the paintjob sux, gomen)
This is a picture of Dammek’s horns when they broke while being sanded. I removed all the broken clay and added new clay. This was also during a stage where I was repairing thin spots.
That’s what they look like fixed. Notice the different colors from the patch job. Sometimes when I’m in a rush I’ll bake the horns to speed up drying but ONLY do that if your core is made of aluminum foil DO NOT bake your horns if the core is made of foam, it’ll melt. The darker clay is from when I baked it and the lighter clay is the patch job.
This is from when someone at a con snapped one of Dammek’s horns right in half.
Cut away any hanging bits and sand away some paint around the edge of the hole, then add some paperclay and let it dry. Sand it and repaint and reseal and they’ll be good as new. If there’s a crack, superglue it shut and fill in any gaps and paint over it.
If you get a huge dent in your horns (This is one of my Tavros horns, which tend to be a little more fragile due to their size) Just cut away the clay and do what you’d do for horns made of foil. When transporting Nitram horns please please bubble wrap the hell out of them, especially if you’re flying. Airports are not kind to your luggage and this is the result of someone tossing my luggage around really badly when I hadn’t bubble wrapped my horns.
This is the horns mid-fixing after discovering that huge dent. I smack these against everything when wearing them so I fixed other dents and holes while I was at it.
If there’s anything else you need to know feel free to ask me!
am i ever gonna love anything the way i loved fall out boy when i was 11? Digital photographs on cotton, foam core, felt, candles 2014
Each shrine represents a different adolescent first - some are more stereotypically teenage (first car, first kiss, first drink), while others are more specific to me (first time weighing myself, first time losing a friend). The photographs show the places these firsts happened, or the objects that I associate with the memory.
Using the white felt to indicate purity and the red candles to indicate impurity, the altars also reject the traditional notion of virginity. Instead of giving myself away, or losing a part of myself to these firsts, I have gained experiences as a woman, a friend, a fan, a sexual being; they have all contributed to who I am as a person, not taken something away. I am not tainted - I am learning.
Displayed with the blog post that I made when I first started thinking about the significance of teenage firsts
hey kiana i wanna start selling prints but i feel like im going in pretty blindly, do you think there's anything i should know going in, or any tips??
hmmm lemme think
if you’re using a service like red bubble or society6 you can pretty much make whatever you want without worrying. they are printed by order and the company takes care of the shipping and printing, so you dont lose any money, but you also don’t get paid much
so if you really want to make money, i’d suggest printing stuff yourself and selling it on a site like storenvy, tictail, or etsy. you get the most profit that way but you also have to worry about expenses. there are many places you can get stuff printed including a few online shops; catprint is a pretty popular one but lately i’ve seen them be very lazy with packing and that ends up ruining prints, and apparently they aren’t good with refunds either, so i wouldn’t recommend. i’m sure theres some local print shops, but depending where you are those can get spendy.
i think the best way to guarantee quality and low price is to invest in your own good printer. i have a canon pro-100, it cost about $300 when i bought it. its on the lower price scale of the nice printers. then i bought an ink refill kit from Precision Colors which is like bootleg ink so i dont have to buy new cartridges. my paper is Red River Paper, i buy the kind called
68lb. UltraPro Satin.
but if you’re just getting started, thats a lot of money to dump into something so i would defo recommend looking in to print shops, either local or online, first.
As for content, make your BEST STUFF large prints. (11x17 or 11x14 usually. if you dont have access to a paper cutter, stick to 11x17) research what people are buying; idk if you’re making fanart but there might be a show you really like and you think is popular, but it sells like crap. i’ve had my one punch man prints for like 2 years now and theres nothing worse than the feeling of a print that doesn’t move. i charge $15 for my large prints, thats considered kind of standard. if you go too low, you undermine fellow artists and yourself, and customers will start to expect that low low price as standard
medium prints (8.5x11) and small prints (5x7) are more flexible, you can play around more with those and experiment. maybe if you want to test if a large print will do well, make a small or medium print first and see if that moves. people are also more willing to buy smaller, cheaper prints, so i like to have most of my stock be small and medium prints. i charge medium prints as $10 and small prints as $5. if you have a small print that doesn’t sell, its not a big deal because they’re cheap to make. also, if you’re using a print shop: a lot of them don’t print in 5x7, so format your mini prints to be 2 on one letter size page.
its also a good idea to buy some cellophane bags for them too; clearbags is a big brand you can use, but just searching the print size and “cellophane bag” on amazon could get you some cheaper options. buy the kind with the fold down adhesive top. put the print in it, along with your business card in the back, and it just makes for a really nice, professional look that also protects the print and shows the customer you value their business.
if you’re selling them online, packing/shipping can be a puzzle. personally i purchase those foam core boards from the dollar tree along with kraft postal paper. i cut the foam core to be slightly larger than the print, sandwich it between 2 pieces, tape them together, then wrap it with postal paper and put the address on it. they can be expensive to ship, especially large prints and international orders; make sure you adjust your shipping prices accordingly.
also, dont get discouraged if things dont start selling right from the start! a lot of it is just branding yourself properly and getting popular. start with a low stock and just a few prints so you’re not spending a whole lot of money right from the get go.
soooo i think thats about it! sorry for the text wall, i hope this helps!