Chinese culture

anonymous asked:

Which hanfu style is your favorite?

Hi, thanks for the question!

My favorite hanfu style is waist-high ruqun - especially those with parallel collars:

It’s my favorite for the following reasons:

a) Cinches at waist & follows body’s natural form. The waist-high ruqun is tied at the waist, accentuating the natural feminine lines of the body. Since I have a relatively small waist, I appreciate any clothing that accentuates it :P

Which brings me to my next reason…

b) Balanced silhouette. The waist-high ruqun has relatively balanced proportions (vertically & horizontally), centered on the middle/waist, which I find aesthetically pleasing. Parallel collars, running straight down the chest, further enhance this sense of balance.

c) Ease & beauty of movement. Compared to most other hanfu styles, waist-high ruqun is relatively easy to move around in. Its flowing lines move gracefully to reflect the wearer’s actions.

d) Versatility. Waist-high ruqun can be customized using many different methods: “jackets” (banbi, beizi, daxiushan, etc), short outer skirts (weichang), long scarves (pibo), waist ornaments, etc. Below - worn with blue beizi (left) & green daxiushan (right).

Parallel collars render the chest undergarment (moxiong) visible, providing an extra piece with which to accessorize the ruqun. Below - the color of the moxiong matches that of the pink banbi (left) & green pibo (right).

e) Beautiful from the back. All hanfu styles are pretty from behind (see chest-high ruqun, quju, aoqun below), but waist-high ruqun (top left) is especially so.

After waist-high ruqun with parallel collars, my next favorite hanfu styles are, in descending order: waist-high ruqun with crossed-collars, heziqun, zaju, quju, beizi, chest-high ruqun, & aoqun (see this post for definitions).

1) Waist-high ruqun with crossed collars: This would be my favorite style, if not for the fact that I prefer parallel collars slightly more than crossed collars.

2) Heziqun (left): The hezi acts as a gorgeous centerpiece for the dress. 3) Zaju (right): The additional triangular strips add delicate movement to the outfit.

4) Quju: Curved lines wrap elegantly around the body for a pleasing form. However, it’s more restrictive around the legs & not as easy to move in.

5) Beizi (Song-style): Arguably the most convenient style, and can be worn with trousers. Multiple parallel lines create a charmingly straight & simple silhouette.

6) Chest-high ruqun: The high-waisted silhouette & long, flowing lines of the skirt produce an ethereal effect, especially when worn with daxiushan.

7) Aoqun: Exquisite designs and crisply pleated skirts on a triangular silhouette give the wearer an air of grandeur.

Note: the above is not a complete list of hanfu styles. There are more, like zhiju, u-collar ruqun, yuanlingpao, etc (not to mention men’s styles).

Now that I’ve waxed poetic on my preferences, I have a question for everyone: Which hanfu style is your favorite? I’m curious! :D

pioggia-di-notte  asked:

Hi! I see in your posts that there are names for the different types of hanfu...but i cannot tell the difference...would you be able to make a post on what the different types of hanfu are? If its too complicated thats ok!

Hi, thanks for the question! I covered the basic types of men’s hanfu here and here, so in this post I’ll describe the basic types of women’s hanfu. Resources on identifying different types of hanfu can be found in my reference tag.

- Ruqun/襦裙 - the most basic type of hanfu consisting of a top and a wrap-around skirt. The top is called “ru/襦” and the skirt is called “qun/ 裙”, hence “ruqun”. Sleeves can be narrow or wide. Generally speaking, people divide ruqun into two types based on the height of the skirt: “Qiyao Ruqun/ 齐腰襦裙” (waist-high ruqun) and “Qixiong Ruqun/ 齐胸襦裙” (chest-high ruqun).

“Qiyao Ruqun” is the kind of ruqun in which the waistband is on the waist. Both men and women can wear it. For women, the top’s collar can be parallel (left), crossed (middle), or u-shaped (right). Men’s ruqun are cross-collared only.

“Qixiong Ruqun”, on the other hand, has its waistband above the chest. The top’s collar can be parallel (left) or crossed (right). It’s only worn by women.

As seen in the photos above, ruqun is often accessorized with a long scarf called Pibo/披帛. Originally used to protect against wind and cold air, pibo gradually became an important feature of hanfu.

- Aoqun/袄裙 - a type of ruqun that became fashionable during the Ming Dynasty. It consists of a double-layered top called “ao/袄“ and a waist-high skirt (”qun”), hence “aoqun”. Unlike the “standard” ruqun that has the top tucked inside the skirt, the aoqun’s top is worn untucked, above the skirt. There are two types of “ao” - “short ao” and “long ao”. The “short ao” (left, right) reaches the waist, while the “long ao” (middle) covers the knees. Ao collars can be crossed (left, middle) or upright (right). Only worn by women.

- Unlike ruqun and aoqun which are made of separate top and bottom pieces, the Shenyi/深衣 style of hanfu consists of one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times. Quju/曲裾 (curved-hem robe) and Zhiju/直裾(straight-hem robe) are two types of shenyi. The quju (left, middle) is a robe in which the bottom hem of the left lapel spirals its way up to the waist of the wearer. Modern quju can come in a shortened version (middle) that reveals the skirt worn underneath. In contrast to the quju, the bottom hem of the zhiju (right) circles around levelly, creating a straight line. Quju and Zhiju are worn by both men and women.

- Beizi/褙子 - a parallel-collar “jacket” with side slits beginning at the armpit or at the waist. It can be secured at the front either with ties or a metal button. Extremely versatile, it can be long or short, have narrow or wide sleeves, and is worn by both men and women. During the Song Dynasty, it was popular to wear narrow-sleeved beizi over a chest undergarment and skirt/pants (middle). Another name for Ming Dynasty-style beizi is Pifeng/披风 (right). Pifeng collars can also be upright (not shown).

- Banbi/半臂 - a half-sleeve jacket worn by both men and women. It comes in various lengths and is usually worn over ruqun. Its collar can be parallel (left), crossed (middle), or u-shaped (right). When paired with ruqun, it can be worn tucked inside the skirt as well as over the skirt (untucked).

- Bijia/比甲 - a sleeveless jacket, usually worn over aoqun, that comes in various lengths and styles.

- Daxiushan/大袖衫 - large-sleeve robe commonly paired with ruqun. As its name indicates, its main feature is its broad sleeves. The length is at least 78 inches, and the width exceeds 40 inches. The material is generally thin and light, because it was originally created for wear in the summer.

Of course this doesn’t cover everything, but it describes the basic hanfu styles that appear most often on this blog. Hope this helps!

Representation and Respect

Excuse me while I get extremely emotional for a minute. Last night I was blown away how amazing The Doldrums was. Every single second was absolutely beautiful. But something that really astounded me, and has since his introduction in A. Malcolm, was how Yi Tien Cho’s character has been portrayed.

Representation matters. A lot. But what’s more important than simply having POC represented on in mainstream media is the production behind that understanding *why* it’s important. How it affects the people watching – both POC and non-POC alike. Because whether we like it or not, mainstream media – television in particular – shapes how people view the world and how they view cultures not their own. I was so moved by it I had to tweet this out to show my gratitude.

Maril + Caitriona liking this tweet is so much more than a simple like. It shows that the cast + crew alike understand that, yes there are people like me out there watching. People who were absolutely terrified that my culture was going to be reduced down to a caricature rendering of outdated stereotypical views. These likes were reassurance. These likes meant, “Yes, we see you. Yes, we understand. We see the value.” Simple statements that nearly moved me to tears.

This production not only understands these failings of an originally poorly and offensively drawn character, but they didn’t take the easy way out. Instead of taking out his character entirely, pushing him to the background with no lines or meaning to speak of, or whitewashing him to the point of unrecognizableness, they decide to go that extra mile. They gave his character depth, meaning, purpose – they gave him true life for the first time ever. And most importantly they gave him and all the viewers respect.

I will never not be grateful to the entire production for this change and never not applaud them for not caving to the pressures of a dominantly white Hollywood culture. All my praise and applause to you, Outlander. Thank you.

Chinese Astrology: Zodiac and one’s “sign”

In the west, most people wrongfully believe that, in Chinese Astrology, one only has one sign - the one that was the sign of the year they were born in.
While this completely disregards the other factors of Chinese Astrology, like the practices BaZi and Zi Wei Dou Shu, the 5-Elements-Theory Wu Xing, and the energy polarities Yin and Yang, it is also in itself far from the truth.
Chinese Astrology believes for a person to have 4 basic signs: The sign of their birth year, the sign of their birth month, the one of their birthday, and finally the one of their birth hour

  • The annual sign shows how others perceive you and how you present yourself - similar to the western Rising/Ascendent.
  • The sign of the birth month is the “Inner Animal/Sign” and gives insight into the inner personality - this is said to be the basic inner persona. It is comparable to the Moon (and Sun/Sun-Moon combination) sign in Western Astrology.
  • The sign of the birthday is the “True Animal/Sign”. This is the basic personality, the true self and base persona. It is comparable to the Sun sign in Western Astrology.
  • The sign of the birth hour is the “Secret Animal/Sign”. This is the secret but truest personality and self. The Secret sign is supposed to be the best representation of the actual personality of the native. 

Example:

Someone was born on the 18th of October in 1978 at 4am.
Their annual sign would be the fire horse, their inner sign would be the dog, their true sign would be the horse (because the 18th october of that year is a wednesday), and their secret sign would be the tiger.


Here is a basic layout for the signs for the month, day, and hour:

Month

Dec. 7 - Jan. 5: Rat ( 鼠 )
Jan. 6 - Feb. 3: Ox ( 牛 )
Feb. 4 - Mar. 5: Tiger ( 虎 )
Mar. 6 - Apr. 4: Rabbit/Cat ( 兔/貓 )
Apr. 5 - May 4: Dragon ( 龍 )
May 5 - Jun. 5: Snake ( 蛇 )
Jun. 6 - Jul. 6: Horse ( 馬 )
Jul. 7 - Aug. 6: Sheep/Goat ( 羊/山羊 )
Aug. 7 - Sep. 7: Monkey ( 猴 )
Sep. 8 - Oct. 7: Chicken/Rooster ( 雞/公雞 )
Oct. 8 - Nov. 6: Dog ( 犬 )
Nov. 7 - Dec. 6: Pig ( 豬 )

Day

Monday: Sheep/Goat ( 羊/山羊 )
Tuesday: Dragon ( 龍 ), Pig ( 豬 )
Wednesday: Horse ( 馬 ), Chicken/Rooster ( 雞/公雞 )
Thursday: Rat ( 鼠 )
Friday: Rabbit/Cat ( 兔/貓 ), Snake ( 蛇 ), Dog ( 犬 )
Saturday: Ox ( 牛 ), Tiger ( 虎 )
Sunday: Monkey ( 猴 )

Hour

11pm - 1am: Rat ( 鼠 )
1am - 3am: Ox ( 牛 )
3am - 5am: Tiger ( 虎 )
5am - 7am: Rabbit/Cat ( 兔/貓 )
7am - 9am: Dragon ( 龍 )
9am - 11am: Snake ( 蛇 )
11am - 1pm: Horse ( 馬 )
1pm - 3pm: Sheep/Goat ( 羊/山羊 )
3pm - 5pm: Monkey ( 猴 )
5pm - 7pm: Chicken/Rooster ( 雞/公雞 )
7pm - 9pm: Dog ( 犬 )
9pm - 11pm: Pig ( 豬 )

Chinese Astrology: ‘Annual Animal’ in the Signs

Annual Animal in the…

[Rat]: appears as witty, sociable, approachable. Likes to be seen as playful and a bit mysterious. Prone to bluntness and indulging in gossip when in the public eye and critical of how others present themselves.

[Ox]appears as calm, patient, intelligent, conservative. Likes to be seen as loyal and methodical and like to take charge in public settings and to stick to traditions, doesn’t like trying out new and risky things. Prone to being cruel and judgemental of how others carry themselves.

[Tiger]appears as a lone-wolf, intense, and rebellious. Likes to be seen as intense, a fighter, and an authority person. Prone to be condescending and make themselves out as more important, intelligent, and better than others in public. May think the way they portray themselves is the best way to portray oneself.

兔/貓 [Rabbit/Cat]appears as graceful, gentle, melancholic. Likes to be seen as well-mannered and ambitious. May be prone to be selfish and vain in public and to force a peaceful appearance. Thinks people should portray themselves in a beautiful and charming way.

[Dragon]: appears as lucky, talented, quick-tempered. Likes to be seen as an authoraty and someone who is enterprising. May be prone to be conceited and tactless in public. May talk over others/undermine them. 

[Snake]: appears as quiet, intelligent, passive. Likes for people to not know everything about them and likes to be seen as wise and seductive. Prone to over-protectiveness and jealousy in public. Can be overly passive/passive-aggressive in social settings.

[Horse]: appears as honest, independant, childish. Likes for people to view them as passionate and hard-working. Prone to be overly egotistical and impatient in public. May think others don’t show themselves as fiery enough.

羊/山羊 [Sheep/Goat]: appears as creative, altruistic, whiny. Likes for people to see them as well-mannered and charming. Prone to being dependant on others and to being stubborn in public. May think the world needs to be more adaptable, altruistic, and gentle.

猴 [Monkey]: appears as humorous, smart, sly. Likes for people to see them as original and amiable. Prone to being too opportunistic and unscrupulous in public. May think seeming eccentric and head-turning is the best way to portray oneself.

雞/公雞 [Chicken/Rooster]: appears as observant, resourceful, vain. Likes for people to see them as open and hard-working. Prone to laziness and roughness in public. May think being assertive but open is how one should be in social settings.

[Dog]: appears as loyal, trustworthy, pessimistic. Likes for people to see them as honest and selfless. Prone to being cynical and restless in public. May think that being cooperative and moral-driven is the best way to act in social settings.

[Pig]: appears as compassionate, curious, naive. Likes for people to see them as strong-willed and warm-hearted. Prone to being gullible and materialistic in public. May think that being helpful and concentrated is the best way to portray themselves.