Brioni’s new creative director: Brendan Mullane. Following his previous work at renowned labels such as Givenchy, Hèrmes, LV or McQueen, the British designer now takes his place at the paramount luxury menswear giant…
According to Mullane you can judge a man by his shoes. As we’re not able to with this shot, we’ll just have to go with the finely made sweater he’s sporting, and the razor focus of those eyes – in which we’re imagining the glimmer of his next amazing collection lies.
What are you wearing?
“Grey checked super-fine tailored trousers, a signature super-fine crew-neck jumper with a white T-shirt, and my handmade dark bordeaux double-monk shoes.”
What’s your greatest fashion luxury/extravagance?
“My fast-growing obsession for hand-crafted shoes and my equally large collection of bags.”
Are you a carry-on or excess-baggage kind of man?
“I’m an excess-baggage man who also feels the need to carry on, just in case the luggage gets lost.”
What’s your biggest sartorial turn-on?
“An excellently tailored su misura double-breasted suit.”
How do you dress to impress?
“By always finishing off your look with a beautiful, well-polished pair of shoes. People always judge you by what’s on your feet.”
Are you, or have you ever been, part of a scene?
“Not now. In my younger days I was an avid follower of the amazing house-music scene and would travel around the globe to see brilliant DJs like Masters at Work and Frankie Knuckles play crazy nights. The good old days.”
What do you love about menswear today?
“I love the fact that menswear today allows men to be much more expressive and that it has finally helped men to understand the powerful concept of the look-good, feel-good factor.”
What’s missing from menswear today?
“Perhaps some rule bending and being able to push the envelope more to bring some fun into the stricter menswear scenario.”
Are you part of the zeitgeist?
“Yes, if zeitgeist means a return to craft, proximity and quality.”
What’s your earliest memory/concept of style?
“I grew up in London in the 1970s and early 1980s, when there was a revival of the mod movement, which I found captivating, as it was a contrast to my childhood pictures of my father wearing his subtle teddy-boy sartorial style.”
Who’s your ultimate style icon?
The true measure of a man is?
“His elegance measured by his giving and not his taking.”
Brendan Mullane has created a collection worthy of the Wall Street fat cats and luxury menswear aficionados. Brioni’s Fall 2015 menswear show included suits worthy of hedgefund manager, shawl collar sweaters worthy of a king, and outerwear that was the envy of every menswear designer for years to come. Mullane chose to stick to the heart of Brioni, to keep the well tailored Italian look that has been in place for the company for years. Sometimes tradition is good, as Mullane showed us with this collection.
Designer Brendan Mullane knocks together Japanese aesthetic and Italian tradition for the new Brioni collection. Have a look at Suzy Menkes’ write-up for the collection in The New York Times and see whether the collision of worlds is not altogether unholy:
MILAN — A diary of a 1963 visit to Japan, long stored in a small box, inspired the new Brioni collection a half a century later. The designer Brendan Mullane found the diary, written by the brand’s co-founder Gaetano Savini in the archives and used it to connect the Italian fashion house to a Kyoto aesthetic.
A Japanese artisan drew a crane that became a pattern on a jacket, while the traditional kimono silhouette inspired a fresh take on tailoring with a loosely belted jacket. Mr. Mullane used the deep-color palette of an Italian master of chiaroscuro, Caravaggio, added a screen projection of falling pink cherry blossoms — and there you have the new Brioni collection.
This sartorial work of art, shown in a space framed by Japanese panels, had a powerful conviction of luxury as something quiet and beautiful.