I’ve been looking for my ideal denim shirt for a while. I wore a RRL one with nice selvedge details for a few years, but I never really liked the length of the shirt or the collar, plus I wanted something a bit simpler and cleaner. I decided to try to my hand at Ascot Chang, where I’ve been getting my shirts made for the last year or so. I picked two denims of differing weights from their house books (no clue who the maker is) and ordered the simplest shirts I could think of: completely un-fused, button-down collars, thick and dark MOP buttons, barrel cuffs, one plain left-breast pocket, and that’s it. The monograms are hiding on the bottom of the inside placket, so they’ll always be tucked in and out of sight. None of the contrast stitching, flap pockets, back pleats, etc. that are so often standard issue on denim shirts OTR.
One of the shirts is a very thick, rough cloth, almost like for jeans, that can most likely only be worn a few months a year; while the other is a smoother, darker, and thinner cloth that will be worn in Miami’s seemingly never-changing weather this weekend.
The monograms you see are a small (though ridiculous) touch, I admit - those are the nicknames for my dogs. The big one is Wolfie (or Woz), and he is an old, graying Schnauzer of 10 years. He is elegant and refined in movement and behavior, even at his age - so he gets silver and a crown on the heavy, durable cloth. My other dog is Lupita, better known as Fik, and she is a black Schnauzer of 3. Small, funny, and spunky - an orange font with a circle on the easy-wearing light weight denim. Odd touches on some odd shirts.
After many years of buying bespoke shirts from various houses I recently decided to give Ascot Chang a try. Ascot has a 3 shirt minimum. I went with a a basic white, blue and pink all in sea island cotton. I received the first of the 3 today and once laundered I will write a review. Stay tuned.
I probably have done more sketches for him compared to the other characters (omg and these sketches are so old!). I originally wanted to give him more of a ‘serpent’ look with lots of curves and Jafar+Al Hirschfeld hand. Soon I noticed it was hard to define his design next to Raoul, who had lots of round lines. So in order to emphasize the ‘sinister’ side of my version of the Phantom, I gave him more straight lines with skinny, clean cut body shape. Everything will fit perfectly on him (which made me change his ascot design too later) since he is a perfectionist, who can’t stand the fact that half of his face is ‘imperfect’.