Military Green

I’ve posted about 1ST PAT-RN unique pieces and outstanding craftsmanship a few times before, but it wasn’t until recently that I actually had the chance to purchase one of their jackets. Inspired by the uniforms worn by Italian Special Forces during WWII, the Ardito features the label’s trademark wool/cotton “Cavalry di Maglia” fabric, along with superb detailing and fit. Completely unstructured with raw jersey inner seams, the three-button jacket mixes casual and refined elements, posing a perfect alternative to wear as a layering piece or on its own.

Presenting strong military influences such as the deep side flap pockets, buttons, the additional small waist pocket and removable strap, plus in this case, the color itself, it has become one of the most heavily worn garments on my wardrobe. The truth is, you need to try one of these jackets on to really understand the craftsmanship involved in its making: from pattern design to the exclusive fabric, it seamlessly adjusts to the body feeling just perfect.

I love how it looks with a white shirt (probably influenced by Cristiano Berto’s own styling) and a pair of chinos or slacks. Here I paired it with a white oxford button down and light grey herringbone wool trousers, while adding a charcoal vest and accessories to the mix. The result is a clean, yet intricate attire, combining different patterns and textures that add to the overall visual appeal.

Details: Ardito jacket by 1ST PAT-RN, oxford button down by Our Legacy, mto herringbone wool trousers and regimental tie by Gentleman Tailors, wool vest (part of a suit) and tobacco suede boots by Purificacion Garcia, cashmere scarf by Burberry, checked pocket square by Tie Rack, bracelets by Viola Milano and watch by Rolex.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira


1ST PAT-RN AW15 Pitti Preview

My love for 1ST PAT-RN is now well documented after years of covering its collections and closely accompanying the evolution and development of new designs and fabrics. Furthermore, I’ve enjoyed the possibility of slowly building a personal collection of its trademark models in superb shades, that remain, to this day, some of my favourite garments. Portraying their outspoken love for heritage, craftsmanship and workwear, the Italian trio comprised by Cristiano, Alessio and Silvia have single-handedly produced some of the most inspiring pieces I’ve seen to date. 

Through extensive research of military history, they have been able to recreate the original patterns of navy and army uniforms, along with original color palettes and trimmings. The ability to combine Alessio’s tailoring skills in pattern making, with Cristiano and Silvia’s uncanny know-how in fabric development, resulted in the creation of soft tailored garments made from an exclusive “Cavalry di Maglia” fabric. Evolution presents itself not only through new models such as worker jackets, single and double breasted blazers, pants and shorts, but also through variations on the original fabric, which now has knitted versions on gabardine and tweed. 

Inspired by the Italian countryside, the collection delivers a contrast between workwear garments worn by farmers on their daily tasks and more tailored pieces reserved for special occasions. Besides new models, the main highlight was undoubtedly the introduction of new fabrics such as the “Tweed di Maglia”, brown corduroy from Brisbane Moss and original Indigo, along with limited edition models featuring the last bolts of archive fabrics.

Ph: Beyond Fabric


1ST PAT-RN SS15 Pitti Preview

Visiting Silvia, Alessio and Cris has become a regular entry on my agenda ever since I came across 1ST PAT-RN. As a fan and proud owner of 3 of their jackets, it’s always a pleasure to check in and discuss new developments and designs. The unique military inspired aesthetic along with an exclusive “cavalry di maglia” fabric, allows for a tailored yet comfortable look: fully unstructured with no lining, the knitted fabric adjusts to the body and regains its shape after each wash.

For SS15, the major change comes through the addition of bottom pieces such as the indigo selvedge denim and knitted shorts. Also, next season sees a new fabric development come to life: the “gabardina a maglia”, a sort of gabardine twill that provides the first woven approach to 1ST PAT-RN models. Besides the essential single and double breasted jackets, new worker jackets made the cut in beautiful camel and indigo shades.

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Winter Outerwear Essentials #4: The Peacoat

If the previous essentials portrayed were reminiscent of military uniforms, the Peacoat is the epitome on this list. A downright interpretation of the quintessential piece worn by several branches of the Navy during the 19th century, the Peacoat is probably the one which remains most true to its origins. The name derives from the original fabric called “pijeker”, later abbreviated to p-cloth and ultimately p-coat. 

The heavyweight wool fabric was a favourite among navy officers due to the wind and waterproofing properties, allowing them to face harsh weather conditions. Other trademark traits include the double breasted closure, wide lapels, large naval motif buttons and side flap pockets. These features will likely be present in most current versions of the peacoat, with inherent quality variations depending on the higher or lower tier brand you favor. Nowadays, most labels carry some kind of variation of the Peacoat on their AW collections, but in my opinion, none comes close to the original navy surplus you can find at flea markets or thrift stores: just make sure you’re purchasing an authentic, nicely fitted coat.

This version by Paul Smith is a perfect example of the label’s motto, portraying the unmistakable attention to details the British designer has been renowned for. Although it lacks the super sturdy, heavyweight wool fabric of the originals, it makes up for it with a beautiful subdued checked pattern, superb fit and features such as the welted side pockets, adjustable strap on the back and hook closure on the collar. The beauty of it resides in the sheer versatility: you can easily throw it over a suited attire or pair it with denim and a sports coat as seen here. The best thing about cold weather is how you can make the most of layering and accessorizing, adding textures, color and pattern combinations that seamlessly elevate the whole look. By the way, don’t forget to pop that collar up, this coat practically begs you to…

Details: wool peacoat by Paul Smith, tropicale jacket by 1st PAT-RN, spread collar oxford shirt by Oswald Boateng, white jeans by Massimo Dutti, leather and houndstooth tweed boots by Carlos Santos, aran wool beanie by Zara, shades by Linda Farrow Luxe, regimental tie by Vendoma and wool floral scarf by Èpice .

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Ph: Filipa Alves

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The White DB Blazer

I don’t think the stigma associated with white suits or sartorial pieces will ever vanish from our unconscious minds. Be it through the reminiscence of series like Miami Vice or the continuous ill-fitted drug lords that populate movies or tv series, white suits and blazers are often seen as tacky. Fortunately, in recent years and much thanks to Italians particular sense of style and sprezzatura, this connotation has been slowly changing: from street style pictures of elegant gentleman properly donning them to the uncanny character of Jeb in “La Grande Bellezza”, it has been proven time and time again that white is an appropriate alternative for sartorial garments.

Although it’s usually associated with Summer (and rightfully so), my only rule when it comes to white is to keep it off the rain. Other than that, Winter doesn’t really deter me from sporting a pair of white denim, trousers or blazers for that matter. The beauty of white is that it provides a blank canvas that allows for virtually any combination of shades and patterns, perfectly balancing the outcome. Whereas you’re going for a more subdued color scheme or a bolder one as shown here, incorporating a white garment in the mix will likely prevent you from going over the top. 

This 6x3 double breasted blazer by 1ST PAT-RN is a brilliant example and has become one of my go-to essentials. Fully unstructured as usual and making use of their “cavalry di maglia”, this navy inspired jacket features gold buttons, moderate peak lapels, patch pockets and their trademark raw jersey stitching on the interior. Taking the neutral shade as a starting point I made the most use of color accents and contrasts, through the bold striped shirt, purple tie, pocket square and of course, the petrol chinos. As a side note, petrol is also one of the most versatile shades I have come across, but more on that later. 

Details: white double breasted blazer by 1ST PAT-RN, striped dress shirt by Paul Smith, petrol chinos by Levi’s, braided leather loafers by Buttero, vintage silk knit tie, silk pocket square by Exquisite Trimmings, vintage silver bracelets, unique silver ring by Progetto Fede and watch by Rolex. 

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Ph: Filipa Alves

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Summer Blues

One of the things that better translates the coming of a new season, along with the right choice of fabrics, is a suitable color palette. On this aspect, I’ve been wanting to update my wardrobe, namely in what regards its core essentials (suits, slacks and blazers), to reflect a wider range of shades. It’s no secret I’m a huge fan of 1ST PAT-RN, but I’ve got to say that in this SS14 collection they’ve outdone themselves.

The color palette is superb, namely the greyish blue on this Admiral Jacket, a perfect alternative for sunnier days which works brilliantly with white, camel or khaki. As usual, the unstructured jacket features the brand’s trademark twill jacquard and inner seams in raw jersey, but this time around the fit has been slightly adjusted to portray a more tailored silhouette. Here I paired it with a somewhat unusual tone on tone combo, white oxford shirt and denim, setting a clean canvas for the jacket, shoes and accessories to stand out. The black British inspired loafers worn sockless, keep up the sophisticated yet relaxed nature of the whole look. 

Details: admiral 2 button jacket by 1ST PAT-RN, white oxford button down by Ralph Lauren, white denim by Massimo Dutti, black leather loafers by Bexley, vintage cashmere tie, black leather belt by Wrong Weather and printed pocket square by Èpice.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Ph: Filipa Alves