1st-pat-rn

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Military Green

I’ve posted about 1ST PAT-RN unique pieces and outstanding craftsmanship a few times before, but it wasn’t until recently that I actually had the chance to purchase one of their jackets. Inspired by the uniforms worn by Italian Special Forces during WWII, the Ardito features the label’s trademark wool/cotton “Cavalry di Maglia” fabric, along with superb detailing and fit. Completely unstructured with raw jersey inner seams, the three-button jacket mixes casual and refined elements, posing a perfect alternative to wear as a layering piece or on its own.

Presenting strong military influences such as the deep side flap pockets, buttons, the additional small waist pocket and removable strap, plus in this case, the color itself, it has become one of the most heavily worn garments on my wardrobe. The truth is, you need to try one of these jackets on to really understand the craftsmanship involved in its making: from pattern design to the exclusive fabric, it seamlessly adjusts to the body feeling just perfect.

I love how it looks with a white shirt (probably influenced by Cristiano Berto’s own styling) and a pair of chinos or slacks. Here I paired it with a white oxford button down and light grey herringbone wool trousers, while adding a charcoal vest and accessories to the mix. The result is a clean, yet intricate attire, combining different patterns and textures that add to the overall visual appeal.

Details: Ardito jacket by 1ST PAT-RN, oxford button down by Our Legacy, mto herringbone wool trousers and regimental tie by Gentleman Tailors, wool vest (part of a suit) and tobacco suede boots by Purificacion Garcia, cashmere scarf by Burberry, checked pocket square by Tie Rack, bracelets by Viola Milano and watch by Rolex.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

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Now that Pitti is one week away, the thought of reuniting with friends and all those outstanding brands is simply amazing. Among the unique labels showing at each of the pavillions, some are definitely becoming a priority on my route. As such, I thought it would be interesting to share with all of you which ones I’m looking forward to visit the most…

In no particular order, the first up is 1ST PAT-RN. Having my good friend Cristiano Berto and his brother Alessio (tailor extraordinaire) as mentors, these military inspired garments are truly one of a kind. To give you a small glimpse of what to expect, here are some scans from its SS13 lookbook.

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Reshaping Traditional Inspirations

When it comes to menswear, one could argue that its embodied nature is somewhat stale, lacking the outbursts and creative momentum inherent to women’s fashion. In fact, apart from a select few forward thinking designers and fashion houses who aim to disrupt traditional male silhouettes, proportions and overall garment design, menswear has created deep roots in what regards its origins and sources of inspiration. Nonetheless, this doesn’t necessarily mean that men’s fashion is boring or static for that matter: similarly to a fine bottle of wine, it has been maturing and refining its distinct traits over the years.

One of the aspects that presents a most cyclical nature, is the inspirational sources brands and designers resort to when developing new collections. Albeit driven by a desire to reshape and reinterpret classic garments with a modern take, there is a reminiscent comeback to the eclectic catalyst subjects of the creative process: uniforms (army, navy, etc) workwear, dandies or gentlemen are but a few. Personally, I find this process of continuously traveling back in time to draw inspiration from multiple sources truly fascinating. Focusing on the army/military universe (one of my favourites), and after featuring the Sahariana, this look presents 1ST PAT-RN’s interpretation of the utility jacket, the Tropicale.

One of my purchases during last Pitti, the unique fit and details on the jacket turned quite a few heads during the event. Fully unstructured and featuring their trademark knit twill fabric in a rich camel shade, along with four pockets, strap details and unique buttons made with milk protein, the Tropicale is proof that military garments can be revamped with a tailored look.

Details: Tropicale jacket by 1ST PAT-RN, oxford button down shirt by Our Legacy, twill pants by CAMO, tasseled loafers by Bexley, pocket square by Lobo Marinho, polka dot socks by Pé de Meia, watch by Baume & Mercier and vintage knit tie, suspenders and leather messenger.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira

Ph: Filipa Alves

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1ST PAT-RN SS15 Pitti Preview

Visiting Silvia, Alessio and Cris has become a regular entry on my agenda ever since I came across 1ST PAT-RN. As a fan and proud owner of 3 of their jackets, it’s always a pleasure to check in and discuss new developments and designs. The unique military inspired aesthetic along with an exclusive “cavalry di maglia” fabric, allows for a tailored yet comfortable look: fully unstructured with no lining, the knitted fabric adjusts to the body and regains its shape after each wash.

For SS15, the major change comes through the addition of bottom pieces such as the indigo selvedge denim and knitted shorts. Also, next season sees a new fabric development come to life: the “gabardina a maglia”, a sort of gabardine twill that provides the first woven approach to 1ST PAT-RN models. Besides the essential single and double breasted jackets, new worker jackets made the cut in beautiful camel and indigo shades.

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A Tribute to 1ST PAT-RN

It’s interesting to evaluate how unwillingly and seamlessly, our individual style seems to mutate over time. During the last few months, I’ve found myself incorporating vests into my attires on a regular basis, a garment which, until now, was an occasional alternative. This progressive transition results not only from my growing awareness of the vest’s versatility, but mainly from just how much it has evolved in recent years. The reinterpretations of the more formal suit vest, have allowed for unique versions that can be worn by themselves as outstanding layering elements: this model from 1st PAT-RN is a perfect example and the main responsible for my newfound love…

A gift from Cristiano Berto and one of my most treasured pieces, this particular vest is unique in the world: a sample trial developed using “tinto in capo”, to achieve the uneven faded light blue shade and worn in effect. Resorting to their trademark knitted cavalry fabric and vintage military design, the vest features a super soft feel and unique tailored construction with raw jersey on the inner seams, and 4 pockets: two on the sides, a ticket pocket and a biased chest pocket. Here I paired it with a green oxford button down, beige cotton chinos and vintage loafers inherited from my father (these are over 10 years and still look perfect). The melange ecru/green knit tie and plaid pocket square pick up the shades of the other elements and give the look a more polished feel.

Details: exclusive knitted cavalry vest by 1st PAT-RN, oxford button down by Ralph Lauren, chinos by Acne, loafers by Tods, melange knit tie by CAMO, mto pocket square, vintage braided leather belt, watch by Gucci.

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira