*h50

4

“Figured you guys need some grub … hospital food is the worst. And the portions? Very small.”

6

For them, life as they knew it was simple. Waking up everyday, with a desire to catch a wave better than the day before. The adrenaline that you feel paddling out, knowing that at any time you could get the ride of your life. And then… there’s the rush of walking on water. Only gods can do that. Everything they did was to preserve that life. To surf is to get up everyday with the desire to battle something greater than yourself.