(1890 1945)


Early 1890s; Altered 1940s

This jacket originally belonged to the costume historian Doris Langley Moore, whose collection formed the basis of the Museum of Costume in Bath, now the Fashion Museum. It is accompanied by the original catalogue card, stating that it was designed by Worth in the 1890s and given, in the Second World War, to the ballerina Margot Fonteyn; she had it altered by Mathilda Etches, and subsequently returned it to Doris Langley Moore. John Bright acquired the jacket from Doris Langley Moore’s estate, and felt she had kept it for sentimental reasons as it had been neither part of the Bath bequest nor previously sold on.

Both Fonteyn and the couturier Mathilda Etches were friends of Doris Langley Moore, modelling garments for her book The Woman in Fashion of 1949, which was dedicated ‘to Margot Fonteyn friend to the collection and the collector’. Fonteyn appears in a wedding dress of circa 1877 and an afternoon dress of circa 1901, and Etches in a tea gown of circa 1900, and a dress and evening coat of 1913. Fonteyn’s brother Felix took the photographs for the book.

Self-taught, Mathilda Etches opened her dressmaking business in the 1930s, encompassing the worlds of fashion, stage and screen. During the shortages of the Second World War she became adept at reusing and remodelling garments, and it was this reputation that probably prompted her regular client Margot Fonteyn to commission the alteration of the jacket.

Langley Moore’s assertion that ‘apart from the neck it was unaltered’ is incorrect, as, in addition, the body and sleeves have been relined, and the sleeves slightly shortened. The photograph mentioned on the index card was probably that taken by the fashionable portraitist Paul Tanqueray in 1943, now in the National Portrait Gallery, and to be seen on its website. It is clear from this photograph that the gathered sleeve heads were altered subsequently, possibly in the early 1950s, to produce the smoother shoulder line of the present garment.

The John Bright Collection

i read a lot about art as well as women’s places in sub-movements and what not so i wanted to compile a little list of notable books i’ve read about the intersection of those things, in case it interests you at all cause it does me. some of these take on an explicitly feminist perspective while others are more objective and “historical”/ devoid of political introspection- both narratives interest me. (if this seems at all crude or without nuance it’s because i’m just a book store clerk and not an academic, lol) :

i’m surely forgetting some- but i hope this was at least a little of interest! 

Germany’s Black Holocaust: 1890-1945: Details Never Before Revealed!

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by Firpo W. Carr

In the 1890s Blacks were tortured in German concentration camps in Southwest Africa (now called Namibia) when Adolph Hitler was only a child. Colonial German doctors conducted unspeakable medical experiments on these emaciated helpless Africans decades before such atrocities were ever visited upon the Jews. Thousands of Africans were massacred. Regrettably, historians neglected to properly register the slaughter—that is, to lift it from the footnote in history that it had been relegated to—until now.

In an attempt to give the incidents their rightful recognition in the historical context of the Holocaust, Dr. Firpo W. Carr has authored a new book entitled, Germany’s Black Holocaust: 1890–1945. In it, he reveals the startling hidden history of Black victims of the Holocaust. The mayhem and carnage date back to the turn of the 20th century, many years before there were ever any other unfortunate victims—Jew or Gentile—of the Holocaust. Carr conducted three incredibly revealing interviews with: (1) a Black female Holocaust victim; (2) the Black commanding officer who liberated 8,000 Black men from a concentration camp; and (3) an African American medic from the all-Black medical unit that was responsible for retrieving thousands of dead bodies from Dachau. (White medical units were spared the gruesome task.)

“Kay,” the Black female Holocaust survivor, laments: “You cannot possibly comprehend the anger I have in me because of being experimented on in Dachau, and being called ‘nigger girl’ and ‘blacky’ while growing up.” Testimonials from the Black commanding officer and African American medic are memorialized, for the first time ever, in Carr’s book.

The research is based on voluminous documentation, and more. If you are like most people, you simply have never heard the unbelievable story of Black victims of the Holocaust. You are invited to read about the human spirit’s triumph over events that occurred during this horrible piece of hidden history.

[book link

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Franklin Carmichael - Snow Clouds, 1938 Franklin Carmichael (May 4, 1890 – October 24, 1945) was a Canadian artist. He was the youngest original member of the Group of Seven.

Some women painters whose work will be in the public domain in 2016

Obviously there are probably many, many more, and this is a very West-centric list, but these are the ones I’ve come across so far. Feel free to add more!

  • Elisabeth Andrae (German, 1876 - 1945)
  • Caroline Atkinson (American, 1871 - 1945)
  • Lena Cornelia ten Bosch (Dutch, 1890 - 1945)
  • Hedwig  Burkhardt (Swiss, 1863 - 1945)
  • Emily Carr (Canadian, 1871 - 1945)
  • Margaret Collyer (British, 1872 - 1945)
  • Louise Cox (American, 1865 - 1945)
  • Henriette Dubois-Damart (French, 1885 - 1945)
  • Helen Forbes (American, 1891 - 1945)
  • Eleanor Fortescue-Brickdale (English, 1871 - 1945)
  • Anna Gildemeester (Dutch, 1867 - 1945)
  • Wiktorya J. Gorynska (Polish, 1902 - 1945)
  • ‘Johanna’ Georgine Haverkamp-Machwirth (Dutch, 1874 - 1945)
  • Ruth Hollingsworth (British, 1880 - 1945)
  • Louise Charlotte Koogh Holtum (American, 1872 - 1945)
  • Almira A. Judson (American, 1868 - 1945)
  • Gerda Knudsen (Norwegian, 1899 - 1945)
  • Käthe Kollwitz (German, 1867 - 1945)
  • Otolia Kraszewska (Polish, 1859 - 1945)
  • Else Lasker-Schüler (German, 1869 - 1945) 
  • Thérèse Lessore (French, 1884 - 1945)
  • Jeanne Lombard (Swiss, 1865 - 1945)
  • Theodora Elisabeth Wolterbeek Muller (Dutch, 1876 - 1945)
  • Anne Wells Munger (American, 1862 - 1945)
  • Meta Plückebaum (German, 1876 - 1945)
  • Clara Siewert (German, 1862 - 1945)
  • Jeanette Slager (Dutch, 1881 - 1945)
  • Adelheid Fanny Martha Stettler (Swiss, 1870 - 1945)
  • Venny Soldan-Brofeldt (Finnish, 1863 - 1945)
  • Isabel Hunter Tweddle (Australian, 1875 - 1945)
  • May Vale (Australian, 1862 - 1945)
  • Mabel May Woodward (American, 1877 - 1945)