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@rose-tylers / rose-tylers.tumblr.com

Mary. 36 (April 23). Florida. Bisexual. She/her. Feminist. ISFP. Multifandom af.

Quick rundown of my books, in case anybody’s interested and wants to buy or read. (If you have a Kindle Unlimited subscription, they’re free to read and I still get money! Win/win!)

The Only One - What we call ‘steamy romance.’ Quite possible a little too steamy; I wrote the sex in this like I used to in fic, and it’s probably a bit too explicit for a book that’s not meant to be erotica, but if you’re into that, there’s a lot of it. May/December romance, lots of good angst in the middle but it has a happy ending.

No Safe Place - Kidnapping thriller. Told from several points of view (Hannah, her captors, and her father as he tries to find her, along with a few other side characters). No sex, but there is a rape attempt and some general violence against Hannah; she’s also drugged three times in the story. ‘Happy’ ending, as these things go.

Finding Home Again - Follow-up to No Safe Place. Mainly about Hannah and her recovery from the trauma of her kidnapping. Emotional rollercoaster, really; I tried hard to not make it seem like her recovery was easy, and she suffers from PTSD and triggers, but she goes to therapy and has a big support system. Romance elements for both Hannah and her father, with three sex scenes that aren’t as explicit as those in The Only One, lol.

All three books are $3.99 to buy, and paperbacks are also available. They’re also available in the international Amazon markets; just replace the .com with whatever your country’s Amazon domain is.

someone help, I KNOW one of you is out there with encyclopedic knowledge of the clothing industry. I'm trying to figure out why clothes don't last, but all I'm getting are articles insisting that behavior like "throwing away new clothes after wearing them once" is common

*inhales deeply*

I do not currently have access to specific sources to back up what I am saying as it is merely the summation of information I have observed, collected, and heard in the last 30 years as I travel almost exclusively in circles where people make and alter their own clothes for a plethora of reasons so please take the following absolute and utter mess of an answer with a grain of salt. I have done my absolute best to provide some kind of source for the foundational claims I am making but I understand that the connections between some of those points amount to supposition on the part of myself and other seamstresses/tailors.

At some point in time, the fashion industry recognized, like many other industries, that it could make more money if people bought more clothes more frequently. As with all industries that have this realization, there is one major way to instigate rapid growth in a market that is traditionally fairly stable: planned obsolescence.
When your product is designed to fall apart irreparably after a certain amount of time, you can essentially guarantee that your customer will have to come back for a new one regularly. Additionally, it has the added bonus of reducing production costs because if it's intended to fall apart you can use lower quality materials and lower your production standards across the board anyway. Up to you if you decide to lower prices to match. Another big bonus of PO is that it meshes well with mass production of clothing products. Mass production has allowed clothing companies to speed up the release of their new fashion trends by A LOT.
What used to take years for designers to plan and release is now being done on a scale of months and rather than releasing new designs yearly (or every six months as some larger capacity designers did for summer and winter in the past) there are now expected to be new fashion trends every season of every year. This means that the entire process of design, to stress-test, to marketing, to production, to sales, to closeout has to occur within a four month window. It should surprise no one that stress-testing and quality control has all but vanished from fashion design as a significant step.
Additionally, many of the types of stitches that are more secure or allow seams to hold up against significant strain use more thread. While this cost is not really so significant that it should justify the quality losses in the resultant product, Planned Obsolesence turns that quality loss into a feature, not a bug, leaving companies only too happy to penny pinch on thread and leave their garment seams ready to rip open at the stress points. Similar corners have been cut when it comes to fabric production. Not only is synthetic fiber fabric often made more cheaply and cut with less durable fibers regardless of quality loss in order to penny pinch, but the cuts of the garments themselves weaken the fabric's durability once it's made. Most seamstresses/tailors will tell you that how and where you cut your pattern on a bolt of fabric matters. Mass produced pattern pieces are not cut out of their bolts in ways that maximize fabric strength and durability, so the fabric is often more prone to stretching, tearing, wear, and threads coming loose. All together, these quality losses result in a garment that can typically see no more than 6-8 months of consistent moderate-hard use before becoming literally unusable - no matter how much you patch or repair it. This is the goal of Planned Obsolescence.
Over years, fast fashion companies have frog-boiled us to the point that many people do not actively think about how ridiculous it is how many garments from the past we have that still hold up today while our current clothes practically unravel on our bodies in 6 months. They take advantage of growing financial insecurity to force people to keep spending on a basic necessity (can't usually go out naked without getting arrested) while providing a product they know will fail long before we can properly afford to replace it. They have by now created a hostage market with a healthy smattering of financially secure people who also spend massive amounts of money in order to "keep up with the trends" despite not needing new clothes.

Here's the part where we're definitely getting into "the rumor mill amongst the tailors has some conspiracies they don't think are conspiracies but struggle to back up definitively".

Because the price of a brand new garment and the price of tailoring are often more or less equivalent nowadays, and because so few people have developed their own tailoring skills (or have a household member who has) it is VERY MUCH ASSUMED in many tailoring communities that the unspoken goal of fast fashion is to undercut tailoring to the point that it becomes nonviable as an industry, removing one of the last points of escape from the hostage market they have created. Tailors cannot afford to live on the prices that they must set in order to compete with fast fashion, no one can, that's why so many fast fashion brands have a mile long list of scandals related to human rights and labor abuses in the factories that produce and manufacture their products. By pricing tailors out of a living wage, they force us into the position of either catering exclusively to wealthy clients (who can already afford high quality, well-fitted clothes regardless of fast fashion's influence on the industry) or to close up shop entirely. There are obviously not enough wealthy clients to keep all the tailors afloat. So close up shop they did. Nowadays it can be incredibly difficult to find a tailor for anything other than certain high-cost formal wear purchases that one is expected to blow a month's salary on anyway. Fewer people are able to make efforts to preserve their clothes, and they degrade even faster, allowing Planned Obsolescence to progress even further down it's profit-hoarding path.

I hope I have been able to answer your question with information that is new and useful and provide some sources that help you on your quest for knowledge!

Planned Obsolescence...a scourge on humankind.

This is basically what I was thinking, but articles criticizing the fast fashion industry unilaterally just blame regular people's shopping habits, implying that people are greedy and buying more than they need.

I read so many websites claiming that people throw out clothing simply because they're tired of it, that people are too concerned with "chasing trends," or that if people just wore their clothes longer or donated them or recycled them, it would be better for the environment.

Last night I dove deep into the internet trying to find recycling services for old clothes—they are widely reputed to be available—but I ended my search uncertain if much clothing (particularly polyester) is actually recyclable or if the services really exist.

There's definitely something weird going on, some kind of purposeful effort to divert blame toward the average person instead of the companies causing the problems.

It is absolutely buckwild to me that none of the articles you found were willing to ask the question "why are people suddenly so willing to just throw away clothing" because that is absolutely a critical question and one that stems from massive amounts of marketing by the fashion industry at large. The impact of the 4-season fashion trend reinvention on clothing waste CANNOT be understated.

There's a long rant that I don't have the mental capacities for here about how fashionable silhouettes used to take decades to evolve because people weren't buying new clothes to fit the trends, they were patching and restyling their old ones, so each new design for the new season needed to do a sort of blended fade into the next so that people could reasonably be expected to do that, but now silhouettes change any gosh darn time they feel like because our clothes are designed to dissolve in 6 months, so we'll just have to buy all new then anyway.

Like that's a massive evolution in the framework of how the average person treats a garment over an incredibly short span of time (anthropologically speaking, the ~50yr span in which this evolution occurred is narrow) and it certainly didn't come spontaneously from the mind of the consumers.

Advertising, labor rights degradation, stagnation of economic thriving, and other major systemic forces are ABSOLUTELY at play in influencing how that shift occurred.

This is why I was a history major in school. It is so important to have historical context to think and reason about anything in your contemporary world.

Records Set and Critical Acclaim of Midnights Taylor Swift records the biggest debut of her career with her 10th studio album, Midnights (Republic). The record-breaking LP opens with 1.53m (1.1m pure), earning the biggest bow of the year, and biggest since Adele’s 25 in 2015. Midnights’ milestones include selling the most vinyl units ever in one week (around 500k) and becoming the most streamed album in a week by a female artist.

Please make a post about the story of the RMS Carpathia, because it's something that's almost beyond belief and more people should know about it.

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Carpathia received Titanic’s distress signal at 12:20am, April 15th, 1912. She was 58 miles away, a distance that absolutely could not be covered in less than four hours.

(Californian’s exact position at the time is…controversial. She was close enough to have helped. By all accounts she was close enough to see Titanic’s distress rockets. It’s uncertain to this day why her crew did not respond, or how many might not have been lost if she had been there. This is not the place for what-ifs. This is about what was done.)

Carpathia’s Captain Rostron had, yes, rolled out of bed instantly when woken by his radio operator, ordered his ship to Titanic’s aid and confirmed the signal before he was fully dressed. The man had never in his life responded to an emergency call. His goal tonight was to make sure nobody who heard that fact would ever believe it.

All of Carpathia’s lifeboats were swung out ready for deployment. Oil was set up to be poured off the side of the ship in case the sea turned choppy; oil would coat and calm the water near Carpathia if that happened, making it safer for lifeboats to draw up alongside her. He ordered lights to be rigged along the side of the ship so survivors could see it better, and had nets and ladders rigged along her sides ready to be dropped when they arrived, in order to let as many survivors as possible climb aboard at once.

I don’t know if his making provisions for there still being survivors in the water was optimism or not. I think he knew they were never going to get there in time for that. I think he did it anyway because, god, you have to hope.

Carpathia had three dining rooms, which were immediately converted into triage and first aid stations. Each had a doctor assigned to it. Hot soup, coffee, and tea were prepared in bulk in each dining room, and blankets and warm clothes were collected to be ready to hand out. By this time, many of the passengers were awake–prepping a ship for disaster relief isn’t quiet–and all of them stepped up to help, many donating their own clothes and blankets.

And then he did something I tend to refer to as diverting all power from life support.

Here’s the thing about steamships: They run on steam. Shocking, I know; but that steam powers everything on the ship, and right now, Carpathia needed power. So Rostron turned off hot water and central heating, which bled valuable steam power, to everywhere but the dining rooms–which, of course, were being used to make hot drinks and receive survivors. He woke up all the engineers, all the stokers and firemen, diverted all that steam back into the engines, and asked his ship to go as fast as she possibly could. And when she’d done that, he asked her to go faster.

I need you to understand that you simply can’t push a ship very far past its top speed. Pushing that much sheer tonnage through the water becomes harder with each extra knot past the speed it was designed for. Pushing a ship past its rated speed is not only reckless–it’s difficult to maneuver–but it puts an incredible amount of strain on the engines. Ships are not designed to exceed their top speed by even one knot. They can’t do it. It can’t be done.

Carpathia’s absolute do-or-die, the-engines-can’t-take-this-forever top speed was fourteen knots. Dodging icebergs, in the dark and the cold, surrounded by mist, she sustained a speed of almost seventeen and a half.

No one would have asked this of them. It wasn’t expected. They were almost sixty miles away, with icebergs in their path. They had a respondibility to respond; they did not have a responsibility to do the impossible and do it well. No one would have faulted them for taking more time to confirm the severity of the issue. No one would have blamed them for a slow and cautious approach. No one but themselves.

They damn near broke the laws of physics, galloping north headlong into the dark in the desperate hope that if they could shave an hour, half an hour, five minutes off their arrival time, maybe for one more person those five minutes would make the difference. I say: three people had died by the time they were lifted from the lifeboats. For all we know, in another hour it might have been more. I say they made all the difference in the world.

This ship and her crew received a message from a location they could not hope to reach in under four hours. Just barely over three hours later, they arrived at Titanic’s last known coordinates. Half an hour after that, at 4am, they would finally find the first of the lifeboats. it would take until 8:30 in the morning for the last survivor to be brought onboard. Passengers from Carpathia universally gave up their berths, staterooms, and clothing to the survivors, assisting the crew at every turn and sitting with the sobbing rescuees to offer whatever comfort they could.

In total, 705 people of Titanic’s original 2208 were brought onto Carpathia alive. No other ship would find survivors.

At 12:20am April 15th, 1912, there was a miracle on the North Atlantic. And it happened because a group of humans, some of them strangers, many of them only passengers on a small and unimpressive steam liner, looked at each other and decided: I cannot live with myself if I do anything less.

I think the least we can do is remember them for it.

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wow okay i’m crying now

“And even as he watched the rescue unfolding that morning, he would have understood that for the living, everything which could have been done had been done: not a single survivor was lost or injured being brought aboard the Carpathia. For those who had gone down with the Titanic, save for reverencing their memory at the service later that day, there was nothing more that he or anyone could do. Rostron’s duty now was as he always saw it: to the living.”

I looked up a bit about this because the post is so movingly written that when I read it aloud to my husband and mother they both wept like babies, and something else really struck me about this story.

So Carpathia was not a top-end luxury liner. Her reputation was for being Jolly Comfortable - she was very broad in her proportions, and not super-duper fast, and the result was that she didn’t rock so much on the waves and you couldn’t particularly hear/feel the engines. She was solid and dependable, and lots of people liked using her, but she therefore occupied a lesser niche than Titanic or Olympian or whatever - and crucially, as a result of that, she only had one radio operator on board. This means she only had radio ops for a certain window in the day, unlike Titanic, which had 24 hour radio ops.

So on that night, when Titanic went down, Carpathia’s wireless operator - one Harold Cottam - clocked off his shift at midnight, and went to bed. While he was getting ready for bed, though, he left the transmitter on for the hell of it, and therefore picked up a transmission from Cape Race in Newfoundland, the closest transmitting tower sending messages to the ships. They told him that they had a backlog of private traffic for Titanic that wasn’t getting through. So, even though his shift was over, and it was now 11 minutes past bloody midnight, and he just wanted to go to bed, Harold Cottam decided that nonetheless, he’d be helpful, and let the Titanic know they had messages waiting.

And that’s how he received the Titanic’s distress signal. In spite of no longer being on shift to receive it, and therefore in order to send Carpathia galloping to Titanic’s rescue, and thus saving 705 people.

All because Harold Cottam decided one night to be kind. 

I dunno. That’s just really stuck with me.

Cottam also ended up staying awake for something like 48 hours straight trying to send survivors messages and a list of survivors home, but due to Carpathia’s limited radio frequency range and with no other ships to act as a relay, this was rather patchy. However, he tried his damn best to make sure the survivor’s messages got home, and was also bombarded with incoming messages of bribes to spill the details of the disaster to the press.

Rostrum had ordered that no messages to the press be sent out of respect to the survivors, for they would have their privacy destroyed as soon as they reached New York. Cottam respected this order, even under extreme duress of fatigue, stress, and the knowledge that in some cases the bribes were almost three times his annual salary.

He eventually went to bed but not before working with one of the rescued Titanic’s radio operators, Harold Bride, to transmit as many messages as possible. Bride was injured (his feet had been crushed in a lifeboat) and had just passed the body of the second of Titanic’s radio operators aboard (Jack Phillips), so neither of them were really in the best shape to keep working, but they did.

In the face of extreme adversity, both men refused to do anything but their duty (and exceeding their duty) not just because Rostrum had ordered it, but because it was the right thing to do. They could have profited considerably from the disaster and they refused for the dignity of the survivors.

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This is hopepunk. This is what we can be, what we are, when instinct takes over. This is what we are when we choose to care about each other. We’re not profit machines or units of production or lone fierce wolves in a bitter wilderness. We are people, and we care about people.

This is human nature. Don’t give up on it.

Hopepunk is best punk.

this always leaves me sobbing. fuck.

I wrote a post a couple of years ago, wondering why there hadn’t been a documentary or docu-drama about the ‘Carpathia’ rescue run.

There are probably sound reasons why not, one of which is probably that getting yet another ‘Titanic’ project greenlit is far easier - name recognition, pre-sold property, multiple conspiracy theories to play with (all discredited, but when did that stop the “History” Channel?)

Here are a couple of stories about ‘Carpathia’:

As @mylordshesacactus has already said, her boilers and engines were rated for no more than 14 knots and, when she managed 17.5 for the only time in her life it’s said (I hate the phrase but I have to use it) that the Chief Engineer hung his hat over the main pressure gauge so no-one - including himself - could see how far its needle was into the red.

Captain Rostron, a religious man, was seen on several occasions standing privately on the exposed bridge wing with his own hat raised and his mouth moving in silent prayer, and when daylight revealed the extent of the ice-field his ship had passed without harm, he only said “There must have been another Hand on the wheel than mine…

There’s another problem-of-sorts about a screenplay set aboard ‘Carpathia’ - an astonishing lack of that easy dramatic tool, conflict. Captain Rostron decided he was going to the ‘Titanic’s assistance, and that was that. AFAIK not a single passenger or crewman - not one - questioned the wisdom of his decision either then or afterwards, even when…

‘Carpathia’ headed at more than full speed, in the dark, through dangerous waters where an iceberg had apparently just sunk an “unsinkable” ship.

It’s easier to write - and sell - a story about pride, arrogance, stupidity, rich against poor and lives lost through hubris, than it is to write one about people who rallied round and did the right thing at the right time, not for reward but because it was the right thing to do.

Here’s Rostron and his officers…

…the ‘Carpathia’ stewards and cabin crew….

…some of her passengers…

…and some of the people they helped.

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I will always reblog one of the few posts to GUARANTEE leaving me in an ugly sobbing heartfelt mess.

Godspeed Carpathia and your crew, your memories live on.

Public service announcement.

Blue/purple lips and fingernails is a symptom of low oxygen in lighter skin tones.

In darker skin tones you're looking for grey or white lips and fingernails. Other places where this may be not evidence is the tongue and gums.

Figured since everyone gets taught what low oxygen looks like on lighter skin. Everyone should know what it looks like on dark skin too.

-fae